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Repair and information details for the GE Refrigerator GSH25JFX****, a side-by-side model with an automatic defrost feature and an anti-sweat heater switch, released in 2010. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GSH25JFX****.

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Why is the evaporator fan running but not blowing air into the fridge?

I have a GE side by side refrigerator/freezer model GSH25JFXB. We noticed a few days ago that the evaporator fan is running almost continuously. Since then we have been monitoring temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer, and although the freezer is staying cold enough the refrigerator temps have been getting too warm at times. Although the evaporator fan is running, we don’t feel the cold air blowing into the refrigerator. My husband is pretty handy with fixing some kinds of appliances with the help of youtube, but is not very familiar with refrigerators. Does this sound like something we need to pay a repairman to come in and look at, or should we just replace the whole thing? (It is just over 10 years old). Or, is there something fairly simple we can do to check and see for ourselves if something simple is wrong that we could fix ourselves?

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Hi @spin551 ,

You need to check if the temperature sensor - part #242 is OK. It may be faulty and “telling” the control board that the fridge temp is OK when it is not and the damper (part #429) is being closed to prevent more cold air coming into the fridge section.

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) and know how to use its’ Ohmmeter function you can test the sensor to check if is OK.

Here’s how to test the sensor - the information was taken from the above parts supplier’s website. They call it a thermistor but in the parts catalogue they call it a sensor ;-)

“The best way to do this is to remove the thermistor from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature or grab a glass of ice water to test the thermistor. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged in a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced.”

Here’s is a link to a video that may be of some help. (scroll down the page to find the video)

If the sensor is the problem there are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for GE GSH25JFXB parts

If the sensor is OK the problem may be the damper assembly or in the control board.

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We tested the sensor with a multimeter and it seems to be fine. We can't see anything that seems wrong with the damper assembly--there doesn't seem to be much to that, just a flap with no mechanics associated with it. Is there a way to test the control board?

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Hi @spin551 ,

Have you proved that it is the evaporator fan that you're hearing and not the condenser fan?

It is "inside the freezer compartment", behind a panel. You should be able to hear it stop and start when a door is opened and closed. You may have to press an ear against the fridge or freezer cabinet to hear it.

Try pressing the light switch in the refrigerator door jamb, to check if it is the evaporator fan you're hearing. It should turn on when the door is open and the switch is operated and you should feel air coming through the damper

Just double checking that the evap fan is operating. Apologies if it is the one as you said.If you can't hear the fan then you need to remove the panel in the freezer and check the fan.

If it is iced over you have an auto defrost problem. Either the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat or the control board.

If it is not iced over, disconnect the power to the fridge and disconnect the fan from its' harness and use the Ohmmeter to test the fan to see if it is OK.

If it is OK you need to check the power to the fan. Use the DMM's AC Voltmeter function to measure this at the harness connector. You can leave the fan disconnected while you test this.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>BE SAFETY AWARE <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

the fan is most probably operating at 120VAC (or 240VAC depending on location) which can be lethal or cause severe injuries if you don't know what you're doing.

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We assume it's the evaporator fan because the sound is from the inside rear of the freezer. For the last few days it's been running almost constantly, whether the door is open or closed (the light does turn off when we push on the switch manually). If we put our hand back in the freezer, below the ice maker, we feel blowing air, but up by the little opening into the refrigerator we don't feel air movement (on the fridge or freezer side of the opening).

I just checked the fridge. Right now I don't hear the noise we assume is the evaporator fan, whether the door is open or not. This has happened occasionally over the last few days, always for just a short amount of time--but right now it is not running.

Fridge temp is currently still sitting at about 54 and the freezer is up to about positive 12 degrees. Hopefully that does not mean the freezer is also unable to stay cold enough. (now back to running 15 minutes later and temp has dropped to 5).

Should we try removing part #127 to test the fan and motor?

さんによる

Hi @spin551 ,

Hopefully it is not iced up and blocking the damper duct to the fridge.

You may have to remove the panel and check what is happening around the evap unit in the freezer.

The evaporator fan should turn off if either door is opened. Don't be confused by the fan noise as the condenser fan is under the freezer cabinet at the back as well. Possibly below the evaporator fan but it is inside the freezer compartment while the condenser fan is outside the compartment. So the fan noise may be emanating from the same general area

I just suggested the light switch as unless there is another concealed switch which is not shown on the parts diagram, the control board has to know when a door is open. On other refrigerators the switch performs a dual function. Turns on the light and tells the control board that the door is open

The freezer temp being at 12 F and then at 5 F may be because you may have caught the fridge after it has finished the auto defrost cycle.

This occurs once every 8-12 hours (depending on manufacturer) and lasts for about 20-30 minutes. During this time the compressor, condenser fan and the evaporator fan are turned off and the temp in the freezer is allowed to rise to nearly 32 F which allows the frost build up on the evaporator coils in the freezer to melt and the meltwater to drain away to the evaporator pan under the freezer cabinet (near the compressor motor).

The defrost action is aided by turning on the defrost heater in the freezer section. After the cycle has been completed (timed function) the compressor, perhaps the condenser fan and definitely the evaporator fan are restarted to drive the temp back down to 0 F in the freezer section and to the desired temp in the fridge section. This takes a little while to achieve but it is the normal operational sequence for most auto defrost refrigerators.

Bit confused by the part #127. I cannot find it in the parts diagram.

To get to the evaporator fan you have to remove part #214 etc.

さんによる

Sorry, I meant part #167, but I see #214 right below also.

So, how can we tell if what we are hearing is the condenser fan or the compressor fan?

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Megan Spinney さん、ありがとうございました！
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