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The LG 60LM6450 is a 60-inch LED television released in 2012. It supports 3D video with glasses at a resolution of 1920x1080 pixels.

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My lg 50uh5530 wont power up. Red light flashes three times.

My lg 50uh5530 wont come on. No sound, no picture, and the red light blinks three times. Read many Q and A's to discover that this problem can be multiple components from the power supply board to the main board and even the led strips in some cases. I've tried unplugging the unit for 24hrs twice with no luck. I have removed the back cover to visually inspect for damaged capacitors or loose connections and found nothing. There is a faint ticking sound coming from the bottom corner of the power supply board near the capacitors. I also checked the 12 power pins with my meter and I do have a 3.5v standby reading but instead of getting 13.2v for the middle pins I get 6.5 to 7.0v. Looking for further advice to make sure I dont waste money. I'm prepared to replace the caps, the entire power supply board, main board, or any other component to fix the issue. Just dont want to buy an exspensive part like others have done when it may be something simple

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Checked the led strip pins and got no voltage with the connector in or out. All capacitors look fine.

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I have the same tv mine started today ! I will never ever buy another LG product ever .. Junk !!!

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Just happened to me today. Oh well.

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Was this resolved with oldturkey03's solution? Just want to know if I should dive into this

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My just did the same thing. It's a lg50uk6090pua.

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@scottcountyhero

post some images of your boards. Use this guide iFixitでの質問に画像を追加する方法 for that. It will allow us to see what you see. Mark where you already checked the voltages. I am not a friend of just going to repalce components unless I know those ned to be replaced. Of course, this is not to say that it will not work, just not my preferred method. I would suggest you measure your power board outputs according to what the outputs are supposed to be. That will give you an indication that yuor power board either works or does not. Remember that certain voltages on your power board will change with input from the main board. Essentially it is the main board that controls teh power board. Again that is not to say that a new power board will not fix this but then again, who knows. The same for your main board and your T-con board.

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Update (09/10/2018)

Here is the flowchart for your model.

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You do have the 3.5V on standby. Check fuse F2 for continuity and you do see the voltages to the right of the transformer. you couild measure to see if those are existant on the bottom of the board. The part where the clicking comes from, appears to contain at least one diode as well as a power transistor. You could check on those parts. For now, if everything checks out and your board does not have the 13.2Voltage that would mean that this is a bad power board. (beyond bad capacitors)

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Let me know if these pics are helpful Turkey and thnx for helping out!

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I had the exact same symptoms as @scottcountyhero including the same voltages on the 12 power pins (3.5v standby reading but instead of getting 13.2v for the middle pins I get 6.5 to 7.0v). My issue was the LED strips. The buzzing coming from the power board has not gone away and persists in standby mode. I'd suggest the following diagnostic from anyone coming to this forum in the future:

  1. Pull wire from 12 pin connector per @chriscontr53256 post above, you can get individual pin sleeves to release from the connectors so you don't need to cut any wires. (this didn't work for me but it's cheap and easy).
  2. Order a set of LED's and replace test them, this requires a lot of disassembly but is by far the leading cause of these symptoms (there are several youtube videos that can walk you through this). I chose to buy from Amazon for $35. This was $5 more than what I could find on ebay but it included free returns so I didn't need to worry about having a spare set of lights to deal with if this wasn't the issue.
  3. Next look to replacing the Power Supply, I found inexpensive parts here: https://www.tvpartstoday.com/COV33697901...

Note: when I removed the screen with suction cups they left a white circle in the image on my screen when I turned it back on. I was extremely disappointed. I walked away from the project but later did some online research and found that this is common when handling screens with suction cups, when I went to turn the screen back on an hour later the screen discoloration was gone. It appears that the liquid in the screen gets pulled towards the surface but that it slowly returns to normal after the suction is removed.

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I would start by testing/replacing the electrolytic caps on the power supply board as this is the cheapest solution, the most common problem, and you have already measured an unexpected voltage on this board. Here is a picture with red arrows pointing to all the electolytics on your power supply board:

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Look for any capacitors that are bulging, or even leaking, from the top vent. You can test the caps with an ESR meter to confirm a fault, but isn’t necessary if you don’t have one.

WARNING: Be sure to discharge all caps before messing with them!!! How to Safely Discharge a Capacitor

After this, look to replace the power supply board.

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Thanks Tim. I agree this is where I will start. Can you post a link to a supplier of these particular capacitors.

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Were you able to fix this by replacing the caps? I'm having the same issue with my power board same tv.

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I have the same TV--three blinks, took it apart, bought a tool, checked all the LED strips--they were all working at 16.2 volts. So #1 solution fail. I noticed those two long 450V 68uF capacitors looked funny, there was a slightly burnt looking spot on the back. I just ordered them and soldered them in. It went smooth, turned it on, it flashed the LG logo, went blank, the standby light blinked three times. Investment $60 so far, but $27 was a meter, and $15 was a fairly worthless manual. I've got three more downloads if anyone wants a copy.

I don't hear a clicking noise, but it really does not stay on long enough to hear anything. Other than the flash, the LED lights though working, do not stay on. The rest of the capacitors look pretty good.

Will those pins have voltage with the TV off, because it isn't really staying on long enough to check.

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Hey James, did you get this issue fixed? I'm working on the exact same issue as you. 6-7v on the 13.2 rails and then constant 10.2v on them when I try to turn it on. Quick flash of the logo and then it goes off. LED leads are putting out almost 90v on mine. If you've already solved it, I'd love to know what the problem was to save me some time. If not, do you still have a copy of that service manual and I'll let you know what I find!

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I have the same issue. Please help. Got a 40n LG i can use for parts if someone tells me what to do. Thanks Matt

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Fxed my LG 50uh5530!

It won’t turn on. Blinking LG logo for 0.5 second and goes black screen. The red lamp on the power button blinked 3 times after that.

In my case solution was to replace backlight led strips.

Ordered from https://www.shopjimmy.com

Look this video how to replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Un80z_fJ...

It took 1.5 hours for me with a regular (hand) screwdriver.

spent $75

PS. to remove the screen I used 2 Ikea’s towel holders.

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This definitely worked for me! Spent $42 on Amazon including the suction cups and tv is back to normal.

Thanks!!!

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this is what I got apart so far. One on the left 43in works fine. Just busted the screen. Kid hit it playing in the house. Other just stopped working 2 days ago.

Update (03/11/2019)

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sorry this is my tags

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I’ve heard that there is a return signal from the main board that is an error and shuts down the power supply. On that 12 pin connector the only one I can see that would be the error return, would be the ENA wire. Any thoughts? From what I understand, pulling that wire out of the plug will get it going.

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Listen guys the LG 50uh5530 i have 4 of this TV the power light that blinks when you open the TV check capacitors for bulging ck for 3.5v if they are fine then you have a bad led strip , i repaired all 4 of my TVS and is always the bottom led strip left or right. please turn down the back light .

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It's a bad LED strip, had d same problem

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It only take 1 bad LED to have this problem

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i know nothing about lighting. would you recommend a safe setting for everyday use?

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Replaced most caps, not the small ones. Wasn’t it. Replaced strips, working—wasn’t it. I have MOSFET’s out, and parts are here but had to take down repair station off dining room table while relatives visited. As yet, I’ve not got to trying them. They’re the little parts under the heat-sinks. I doubt it will be them, to be honest.

I’d suggest anyone who wants to “play” with this television just go ahead and buy one of the cheap ESR meters—I got an MK-328 LCR ESR tester. It was about $25 from China and took a few weeks to get here. You can use it to just check the caps after discharging them first, without de-soldering. Caps are cheap but when you add shipping they get costly this hit or miss stuff.

Frankly, I sort of wish I had just bought another one—I’ve spent half the initial cost already, and more to come. It’s just a question of how long I keep trying. But now I’ve got the tester, which can test the stuff on the board, so when I get back to it maybe I’ll stumble on to a bad part! Wish me luck. I’m due some.

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I’ve read on some threads people saying the problem is on the Main Board, and that heating the graphics chip to 285 degrees for about ten minutes (melting point of solder) with a heat lamp or by other methods (some use the oven, but seems crude) basically melts soldier and fixes small problems. I was saving it as a last resort kind of thing. Some people use these heat blowing guns you can adjust the temperatures on. I just worry about all of the plastic plugs.

Check YouTube for examples—I think it’s called “reballing” referring to the little solder balls making the hundreds of connections the chips are soldered in with.

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I finally gave up throwing good money after bad.

On the up-side, I did use my ESR meter again a few days ago. I ordered and soldered some new capacitors in an Arris 6141 Modem. That didn’t work either. This “replace the capacitors” thing hasn’t ever worked for me.

I can’t bear to throw the TV away, or give it to BestBuy. I guess I’ll have to at some point.

I’m still watching an older model I had, ironically an LG 42”.

I wish some brilliant person would figure it out and post it. I’d be willing to bet it’s the same bad component—probably just a simple soldering job.

I don’t trust the boards you buy either to be functional.

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Hope you didn’t give up yet...

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well there is one way to check if it is your led strips, unplug them from your power supply and see what happens,measure the voltage from the power board at the led connectors the do the same with them plugged in if voltage stays the same then it is not the back lights ,measure all voltages from power power withthe led disconnected.

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Check on power bd for 3.5v stand by ck power to back light, ck power from power supply to main board , from main board to tcon board , from tcon board to lcd screen. I have 4 of this TVS with the same problem, and is always the right or left bottom led strip that have more than one led burn out replace one strip and all 4 TVS are still working . I know it is challenge to remove the lcd screen , you have to get two suction cup to take off the screen. Oh i forget to mention to check the capacitors on the power board for bulging good luck.

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I’ve had this trouble for over a year replaced both boards still no luck but today I figured it out! Remove this wire from the 12 pin and it works!

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this trick with cutting wire. didn't help me. I would say even nothing changed. LG logo same appear on 0.5 sec and then TV goes black and 3 red light flashes

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I replaced my led strips in the back and the tv is now working. Check shopJimmy.com for the video on how to do it

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No tech tv expert but since its 12 and there is 6 rows on the led strips does it signify that you are pulling out whatever half of that rows leds to basically bypass that row?

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Back light LED or LED strip common problem with this tv. If one LED is burned out tv will shutdown and the standby red light blink..

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Is there a way to check the LED strip before replacing it?

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James Walker さん、ありがとうございました!
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