Changing Car Battery Cables / Kill Switch Install


I've got an old car. (Love the ol' gal) and I've decided to change the battery cables since they're starting to corrode and get ugly. Completely replacing it, as well as the terminals that clip to the battery poles.

Anyhow, I've also come up with the idea of installing a Kill Switch, something like this.

So basically after replacing all the cables, I was thinking of attaching this Kill Switch somewhere along the Negative line from the Battery and attaching it in a nice hidden place.

My Question is, since I'm tight for cash.. Can I buy Car Jumper Cables, something like 150amp(Should I go higher?) cut off the clamps, and use the cable itself as my new battery cable. Use it to connect to the Kill Switch and bolt the end of the cable somewhere else to my Frame?

My Battery is:

Voltage: 12

Amp: 100

Cold Crank: 800

RC: 120

I also ask, will adding roughly 2 meters more length of battery cable change the effectiveness of my battery's performance to start the car?

Basically in short: Can Jumper Leads be used as Battery Cable?

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No. Here's why. Jumper cable wire isn't usually the same as wiring harness cable. The former is often copper coated aluminum (CCA) wire, while a harness cable is usually pure copper. Test your jumper cable by scraping at the copper: if you find a different colour below, it is CCA or something similar. Do not use this as a splice in your battery harness even if both cables are the same gauge. This is because copper and CCA do not conduct electricity in identical fashions. Moreover, if you were to splice a CCA jumper cable into your harness you would be introducing aluminum wiring, a big no no as it may start a fire. You are much better off simply buying a pre-made cable to solve your problem or have one made up for you.

I get mine from del city where they start at about $4 but there are other places that will do it for you as well. You can also buy matching cable by the foot. You can also buy battery splice cables, which are a connector connected to a terminal, about 6 inches long. I use these when I want to change the terminal but not spend $$$ to unnecessarily replace an entire harness. East Penn makes the splices so they are available at del city and some auto parts places. (Psst: ifixit folks--this would be a perfect product for y'all to carry.)

Shorter me: get the proper cable. Period. Saving $5 and introducing the risk of destroying your car is a dangerous false economy.


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Late as $@$* but I love it. Thanks.




Wouldn't it be simpler to just put it in series with the starter motor solenoid operate lead or start relay wiring. That way you wouldn't have to worry about the battery cabling.

This way it also won't affect anything attached to the battery in case the switch goes faulty. Only the start will be affected, not the running of the engine and associated systems


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I don't understand. That sounds like you want me to attach the Kill Switch to the positive side, which I cannot do.

I want to replace the cables anyway.. In short, I just want to know whether scrapped jumper leads can be used as a good substitute.


Oh I see, you want me to put the isolator on the Ignition Wire? My whole purpose on doing this is to completely isolate the battery, since I don't drive very often. Whenever I do want to drive, the battery is flat.. so I want to isolate it with a simple switch/key.


Blah I should probably repost since my question is basically a story.



I'm suggesting that you put it in series with the operating lead for the start relay. OK it is in the positive path but it is a low current path. It is only operating a relay not driving the starter motor directly. Stop the relay from operating, starter does turn over

Adding extra length to the battery lead increases the resistance. It may be slight but when you are talking about the amount of current (anywhere from 50A warm engine to 250A cold engine for about 0.5 secs) the voltage drop (E=IR Ohm's Law) because of the extra length might be enough to cause problems, especially if the battery is aging.

If you are going to use old cables then they should at least be the same current carrying capacity as the original if not better


I see. I'll be putting it on the negative because I want the entire circuit to break. I don't want any power going to the car while I'm not around to preserve the charge in the battery. Don't care for Radio Memory, Clock, etc..

So as long as they have the same or higher carrying capacity, it'll be fine. That's good.

I was just worried that there was more to know than just the gauge of the wire.


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Anyone to confirm whether it's safe to cut up some Jumper Cables and use them as my new battery cable?

(I just want to use up the spare I have laying around)


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