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GE refrigerator gsh22sgress Freezer is cold but fridge is not

It's that simple. Freezer is cold but fridge is not. Adjusting temp doesn't seem to matter. The flap between the two is open but air not circulating into fridge.

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How do you fix this problem?

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Where is thermostor located?

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Jazz board. https://www.amazon.ca/Whirlpool-W1050327...

It is easy to do and fixed my problem.

It is a common problem that my repairman wanted $500 for until I came across this solution. I had the same problem of the freezer still ice cold but the upper fridge was warm due to massive frost building up on the defrost fins in the freezer.

The auto defrost cycle wasn't kicking on.

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how did you fix it? Where is the auto defrost?

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We are dealing with this right now too. Would love to know answers.

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The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm and the evaporator coils are frosted over, there may be a defrost system problem. Several times a day the defrost heater assembly turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost or ice that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly has burned out, or the defrost thermostat or defrost control have failed the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling. The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system.

Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. These are the coils that get cold. A small fan and motor is mounted near the coils. This fan and motor - called the evaporator fan and motor, draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer and refrigerator. If the fan fails, the freezer or refrigerator will get much warmer than usual.

Damper Control Assembly

If the freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm the air damper control might be stuck closed or broken. The air damper control is either an automatic or manually operated door which opens and closes to let more or less cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If it doesn't open properly it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. If the evaporator fan is running, the damper door is open and no air is coming out. The evaporator may be frosted up caused by a defrost problem.

Thermistor

If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.

Temperature Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.

Defrost Thermostat

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling to the freezer or refrigerator. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

Main Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the main control board might be defective. This is not common. The cause of this problem is almost always in the defrost components.

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The main control board was just replaced. The damper control assembly opens on its own and is open wide which tells me the fridge is trying to cool. The freezer stays cold. There is no air coming out of the damper door so I'm guessing there is a fan that is stuck or not working. How can I check the defrost thermostat, temperature control board or see if the coils are frosted over. if the coils were frosted over would the freezer still be cold? thank you.

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Had the same issue with Freezer cold but refrigerator was warm (64F) check the damper door which was open. My model is a built in fridge with a bottom freezer drawer in the process of removing the covers to get to the evaporator coils and fan they fan suddenly turned on. I know it was not on until I started to remove the cover, so I am not sure if it was frozen or a piece had ice had stopped the fan blades but i could now feel cold air coming into the refrigerator compartment. Coils also seemed fine and not frozen over.

-Mike

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so if we've replaced the thermistor, checked for continuity... still fridge isn't quite cold enough...air coming in from damper, but not cold enough and frost in freezer.... would your next step be to replace the defrost heater?

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The main jazz board was the culprit on my Maytag. It took two years and many frost melting sessions to figure it out but it was the main board. A relatively undifficult repair.

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My freezeer is extremely cold (-32 Celsius) and the rerigerator not cooling. The fan is working. What would be my next step?

Have tried thawing - didn’t help.

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I had a very similar problem. The defrost system wasn’t working properly and the evaporator coils were frosted over and air was not circulating into the fridge well. After defrosting, the fridge returned to normal working order. For a while. A few months later, the problem came back. In my case, a clue was that the hole that drains the defrosted water was plugged with ice. I was slow to figure out that there was a clog of gunk in the drain line (not sure where it came from) because it never occurred to me that was possible. It seems to be working better now after defrosting AND cleaning out the blockage in the drain line.

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I have a similar problem with my fridge the defrost system not working perfectly.the evaporator coils were frosted.but after i defrosting my fridge with warm water its returned to normal. But after 2 days not cooling again.

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Turned out to be the evaporator fan.. still stops some times but just tapping the cover that houses the evaporator coils and and fan seems to get it going again. Not sure if the fan is failing or if it's freezing over and getting jammed I ordered an extra motor just in case but I haven't replaced it until I absolutely need to.

Mike

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Where is the evaporator fan located?

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In the freezer compartment right next to the evaporator coil.

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so when do you just buy a new refrigerator? My GE is 20 years old and I really don't feel like going thru all this.

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Fixit forums are awesome. How to learn all about fridges on a Sunday lol Have a 7 yr old GE with bottom freezer door. Thought it funny someone posted here that wife cleaned the fridge now the fridge section won't cool. Same thing here except DIL did the cleaning. Have emptied and turned it off. Will check tomorrow to see if it works. If not, evaporator fan check is next. Cycling the power didn't help nor did reseting the fridge via control menu. Damper sounds like it is working judging by the manual test via the controls menu. Am so glad we have a mini fridge and big chest freezer otherwise would be living out of an ice chest while we figure this out.

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Hi @fixitnow414 ,

The fan located in the underside/rear of the unit is the condenser fan.

The evap fan is IN the freezer compartment behind a panel.

Here’s a link to the relevant section showing the parts. The evap fan is part #5

The evap fan stops if a door is opened and starts when the doors are shut. It will run as long as the compressor is running.

You may have to place an ear against the fridge to hear if it stops when you open a door and starts again when you close the door.

If you can’t hear it it may be faulty or iced up. If it is iced up it could be the defrost heater is faulty.

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I am using model RB39FWRNDSA Samsun refrigerator but my problem is my fridge door was left opened and after awhile the fridge is not cooling but the freezer is cool what should I do

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@Joe miezah ,

Did you close the fridge door?

If it was left open for a long time it may take a long time for the fridge to get to the correct temperature again.

Allow at least 8-12 hours, maybe a bit more even, for the fridge to get back to the correct temperature i.e. 3-5C (36-39F) and then check the temperature and try not to open the fridge door too often during this time

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Had same problem on my Kenmore. Was the fan in the freezer compartment that forces cold air up to th fridge. Had somehow become cocked and hit something that stopped it dead. Just straightening it solved the problem. Motor did not burn up so don't need a new one. This problem is not mentioned in your fixes.

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I'm having the same issues with my refrigerator has been a while now every 4-5 months the refrigerator part starts getting warm I believe the defrost heater isn't working as it should ice builds up and stops the fan from circulating air I have to disconnect for a couple of days and let it thaw and then reconnect and then works just fine can anybody tell me where the defrost heater is located or how to change it out

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I had a defrost heater replaced and the defrost thermometer replaced and it worked fine for a few days but now it's doing the same thing! So what could be the problem now!?

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Hi @marshagail,

Assuming that you have a Maytag Mff2558vew2, see my answer (5 above this one) how to check if the evaporator fan is working or not without having to take the cover panel off in the freezer compartment to actually see if it is working or not.

Although if you can’t hear if the evaporator fan is running then the panel will have to come off anyway so that you can see what is happening and if you have to replace nay parts.

Here’s a link to the parts to show where things are.

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Hi @asouary ,

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

Is there a door switch visible in the door jambs of both the freezer and fridge compartments?

If so one may be intermittently faulty.

When a door is opened (either door) the evaporator fan which is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel (mostly unless your model has two evaporator units therefore two evap fans) will stop to prevent cold air being blown out of the compartments. It will start again when the doors are shut.

The fan will be running as long as the compressor is running.

Try manually operating and releasing the switch (one at a time) to see if the fan turns on and off when the door is open, simulating closing and opening the door(s)

Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can be running regardless of the doors being open or shut as it is there to cool the condenser coils

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Hi @squirrel68

The evaporator, evaporator fan, defrost heater and defrost thermostat are located behind the evaporator assembly cover. The cover is removed from the front on the inside of the freezer compartment.

Once the cover is removed you can see the fan and check if it operates by manually operating the door switch which should turn off the light and turn on the fan with the door open

The link I posted earlier has the parts locations diagrams see Cabinet parts #1104 for the cover, part #724 for the fan, #880 for the defrost heater and #771 for the defrost thermostat I think that that is it even though it is called thermal insurance but it looks like it.

If the fan and evap unit is iced over i.e. fan does not operate, then the freezer will still be cold because the evap unit is freezing cold (-18 deg C) from the refrigerant that flows through it and it is located in the freezer compartment. The refrigerator will be warmer than it should be because no cold air is being blown into it by the fan.

Disconnect the power from the fridge and use an Ohmmeter to check the defrost heater. Normally it should test 20-50 Ohms. If it is OK check the fan motor. If both OK check the drain hole tube.

The drain hole is located below the evap unit and during the auto defrost cycle, drains the melt water to the evap pan under the fridge . If it is blocked then the water can't drain away during the defrost cycle, and it will refreeze and build up until it covers everything and stops the fan etc. Pour a measured amount of water down the drain hole (not too much) and check that it all gets to the evaporator pan under the fridge

Avoid using a hair dryer on high heat to melt the ice on the evap unit etc as this can damage the evap unit and also the freezer liner which is very thin and cannot be replaced. You can use it on the coolest setting for short periods just to help it along a bit but don’t leave it on the evap unit for too long. You just have to let it melt by leaving the door open and the power off of course

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Hi @squirrel68,

Very strange,

The fan should blow air into the refrigerator, but the diagram doesn't show any air duct or vent in the refrigerator compartment.

Maybe there is another fan that sucks air up from the evaporator unit and blows it into the refrigerator compartment. The parts list shows #973 Fan Ass B-763 as well as fan motor #724 but it is not shown on the diagram. So I'm not sure what this part is or where it is located or it is even the same fan.

If there is a vent in the refrigerator cabinet that's where the air might come out from and it may be that there is a fan behind it.

I know in my F&P fridge there are two fans one in the freezer and one in the refrigerator (behind the air duct coming from the freezer compartment) that both distribute the cold air dragged across the one evap unit.

さんによる

Hi @squirrel68,

Is there an equivalent hole or maybe a grill, vent plate or an opening in the walls somewhere inside the refrigerator compartment - anywhere because if it is a tube it might be fed through the body of the cabinet to come out anywhere inside the refrigerator compartment?

Most refrigerators have an air duct feeding from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment.

Sometimes the air flow is controlled by a movable flap in the duct, which helps to more precisely control the amount of cold air to be fed into the refrigerator. It is usually referred to as the damper control.

The "controlled" damper type is usually on the more sophisticated models and there is no mention of it in the parts list, but most all still will have the duct as the cold air has got to get to the refrigerator compartment somehow because there are two distinct separate compartments and the "cold" is generated in the freezer compartment by the refrigerant passing through the evaporator unit and then being distributed by the evaporator fan to both compartments.

さんによる

Hi @squirrel68,

Very strange that there is no opening in the fridge compartment.

Maybe the tube feeds around the walls of the refrigerator and keeps it cool that way, I don't know.

Wouldn't a authorized repair service for the refrigerator be cheaper than a new one? Maybe you could contact them and ask about the blocked tube. Sometimes repairers can be helpful and give you an answer without having to come out. Worth an ask anyway. You would be no worse off if they wouldn't tell you.

Good luck

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got a side by side gallery . freezer fine -4 deg fridge warm 45 deg not much air coming out of vent in top of fridge , unplugged 3 days ago & still no change after 24 hrs unplugged . where do i go from here , cleaned fan & underneith & took back out of freezer evap fan running fine . lots of air in freezer makes ice cubes in 2 hrs

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Hi,

What is the model number of the fridge?

There may be a problem with the damper unit not allowing cold air from the evaporator fan to enter the fridge.

Don't know your fridge but some side by side fridges have two evaporator units with fans, one in the freezer and one in the fridge.

Search online for "(insert make and model number of fridge) parts" to find suppliers that may have exploded parts diagrams which will show you how the fridge is set up i.e. 1 evaporator unit with fan in the freezer and damper unit to fridge or perhaps 2 evap units with fans, one for each compartment, freezer and fridge.

If it is a 2 evap unit setup then there may be a problem with the fan in the fridge or perhaps the temp sensors etc.

It could also be a problem with the fridge temp sensors in the fridge on a 1 evap unit system telling the control board that it is cold enough when it isn't. etc.

さんによる

Hello,

I have similar problem, the freezer is working fine but no air is blowing in the fridge. I checked all the component and I guess the are all working fine. The only thing that surprised me is that the air start blowing in the fridge as soon as opened the freezer. any idea.

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One more think to look at. I was having the same problem. Freezer was cold but refrigerator was actually hot. On mine it ended up being a stuck door light switch. My GE built in uses four 60W bulbs. They were staying on all the time. The heat generated from 240W of lightbulbs just overwhelmed the ability of the fridge to keep cold. I unscrewed the light bulbs and the fridge started cooling down again. I have a new switch on order.

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@mayer Answering your “diagnostics”, the freezer is cold like a refrigerator should be, not like a freezer (doesn’t freeze anything). So no idea if by “cold” you mean it freezes or it means something else.

“The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over“ Nope, they’re not.

“Evaporator Fan Motor“ Nope, it runs fine.

“Damper Control Assembly” Again, there’s nothing frosted, no ice at all.

“Thermistor” Haven’t tested that part, should try doing it when I find out its location.

“Temperature Control Board“ Haven’t tested that one either.

“Defrost Thermostat” Again, no ice so that’s not the problem.

“Main Control Board” There’s always a first time for everything so who knows.

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My freezer is cold but fridge is not cold so I switched it off 24 hours and cleaned ice inside and start again so it was working perfect for a few days. Then ice builds up in the freezer and the fridge is not cold but freezer ok.

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I have a Maytag Mff2558vew2

Double door upper fridge with lower freezer drawer.

My freezer is cooling just right, my refrigerator is not cool at all. I feel like my evaporator coils are frosted over because there is 0 air flow coming into my fridge, but the damper control assembly is doing its job. Here is where I get confused, could it be evaporator fan motor, thermistor, temperature control board, or defrost thermostat ?

If the evaporator fan is located in the underside/rear of the unit, this fan is working properly. This fan is controlled and given the signal to turn on and off if I'm not mistaken right? So what could it be or how can I move forward with my fix.

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Hey! Yikes! My fridge and freezer are no longer keeping items Frozen or cold like it should. It also recently started making a low buzzing like sound and has frosted over a lot on the back panel. I'm on a fixed income can you please tell me if it's salvageable? Thank you for any help you can offer.

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My fridge temperature is not working the fridge is warm and temp not going down how do I solved the problem

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Well I checked the BACK of my freezer. Sure enough, there was a wall of ice back there, also blocking some air vents. I cleaned out that ice and GUESS WHAT--my freezer AND MY FRIDGE part are both working. In fact, I just now had to TURN BACK my fridge temp because my lettuce was freezing!!!

Whoever gave that clue THANK YOU VERY MUCH. After 20 years, I really thought I'd have to buy a new refrigerator!! THANKS THANKS THANKS

さんによる

To Jeffeff~~Well you are right, it's happening again, back of freezer getting iced up and refrigerator not cold again. Strange that inside light keeps flickering, never did before but probably has nothing to do with issue.

I do not see any switches inside either door.

I should add that a lot of water drops at top of refrigerator section so it must be defrosting? But I've got freezer set on HIGH (maybe why all the ice?) to keep things working at least in the freezer (which is also fading). Takes way longer for ice cubes and forget about ice cream!

Model TBX18SABORWW Serial #AZ52924

I don't think I can handle anything else myself. I am 67 with no help...this unit is 20 years old. It may be time or a new one?

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The clue about ice in back of freezer was spot-on for me. I cleaned that out (it was also blocking some air vents) and my fridge and freezer are working! In fact, I just had to turn down the fridge temp cuz my lettuce was freezing.

Thank God (and the person who advised) I don’t have to buy a new refrigerator!

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Hi,

You have to ask yourself though, why was there so much ice at the back of the freezer in the first place?

Any ice formed should be removed by the auto defrost cycle which occurs at least once every 6-10 hours in most refrigerators and so there should be no build up to the point where it affects the performance of the refrigerator.

The ice build up could be caused by a blocked drain leading from below the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment to the evaporator pan under the fridge preventing the defrost ice meltwater from draining away and therefore building up.

Or perhaps the defrost heater element is faulty preventing the ice build up from being defrosted during the normal auto defrost cycle. There are also other component failures that can cause the ice to build up such as a faulty defrost thermostat.

All I'm saying is keep an eye on it as since this has occurred once it will happen again.

Whatever the problem is it won't fix itself.

By removing the ice you are just treating the symptoms and not the cause.

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

さんによる

Hi I have kenwood freezer fridge and the fridge stopped cooling but the freezer was still working. I decided to take the plug off from the fuse so it can defrost. After 15 hour I plugged it and this time both the freezer and the fridge stopped cooling and I the notice the panel at the front door went off, but the light inside the fridge is working. How cani solve this problem please?

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Hi I have kenwood freezer fridge and the fridge stopped cooling but the freezer was still working. I decided to take the plug off from the fuse so it can defrost. After 15 hour I plugged it and this time both the freezer and the fridge stopped cooling and I the notice the panel at the front door went off, but the light inside the fridge is working. How cani solve this problem please?

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kennyfluke さん、ありがとうございました!
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