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The Macintosh Color Classic was the color all-in-one Mac in the early 1990's

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Do you sell Monitor Adjusting Tools for the Color Classic

I'm in need of the plastic Monitor Adjusting Tools for the Color Classic.

Do you sell these or can recommend where I can obtain a set?

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iFixit does not sell it. I don't have a any line on another source, but I'll keep my eyes out.

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The reason for the nonconductivity requirement is that the control is actually a ferrite core inside an inductor carrying large alternating currents. The AC field would induce large currents in a conductive tool, and make it get incredibly hot very quickly, to say nothing of invalidating the adjustment. At the same time, the increased strain that this places on the circuits could cause damage. So, wood or plastic it should be.

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CRT discharge and adjustment tools are not in high demand, so it isn't easy to find the specialized versions these days. They can still be found, but using precision plastic screwdrivers also works as well.

However, before you begin to adjust the CRT you want to discharge it, so you aren't starting out with a 15-25k charge waiting to get you! Best way to do this is a specialized tool but in a pinch I have done it with a well insulated electrician screwdriver (a bit more expensive, but cheaper then a hospital visit or death) and car jumper wires, and one hand behind my back. CRT MONITORS CAN AND DO KILL, SO BE CAREFUL! If you want to do it, electrical gloves are a good idea but not required. Once it's discharged and you adjust it DO NOT DO ANYTHING in the area blind without making sure it's off and discharged!

The big thing is to find the service manual to figure out what each adjustment does, as the points are unlabeled in these AIO Macs as it is assumed a technician will do it, not us. You basically need it as getting it wrong means it’ll NEVER be right again without hours of tinkering. You often have to do this because the age of the CRT does not match the original alignment, so you need to compensate and adjust it when it gets too far out of sync. Read: If you keep having to do it, the actual CRT is in need of replacement and is worn out. Don't buy a worn out school unit, it'll fail like yours did. You want a nice one with low-ish hours and no burn-in.

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The reason for the nonconductivity requirement is that the control is actually a ferrite core inside an inductor carrying large alternating currents. The AC field would induce large currents in a conductive tool, and make it get incredibly hot very quickly, to say nothing of invalidating the adjustment. At the same time, the increased strain that this places on the circuits could cause damage. So, wood or plastic it should be.

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The original question is from 2010 but has not been satisfactorily answered so I will add something more complete.

You can find the exact plastic toolset required on Amazon, a link to which is contained in the text description under my Color Classic CRT Adjustments video.

The CRT discharge advice given by Nick is important at times, but if you watch my CRT Adjustments video you will see that the adjustments need to be carefully done with the Color Classic switched on, which means you cannot and should not try to discharge the CRT when making those adjustments. CRT discharge is only necessary for safety when working on or near the CRT while the machine is powered off.

You will also note that I put a link to safety gloves in the text description under my video too, which is important to protect you when working on the analog board with the machine on. In addition, you will also find links to a screen size template I made to aid you during adjustments, and there's download link for the Apple Service Utility that I demonstrate in the video.

This information should assist any Color Classic, Color Classic II and Mystic owner in getting their screen properly sized and adjusted.

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I wrote my answer 11 years ago, before the tools became common so I had to base it around that era of tool availability.

As far as the discharge goes I wasn't sure if it had to be on or off at the time, so I erred on the side of caution knowing how these things can and do kill being 15k electric bombs if you directly short it and it comes in contact with your heart. I was also in my teens so yeah... Mostly there but wasn't fully sure.

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@jdw1 hopefully my corrections are accurate now?

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Hi, @Nick Thank you for your comments.

Please know that I was not trying to suggest what you wrote 11 years ago was in any way fundamentally flawed. Not at all. I actually came across this discussion while Googling and noticed the opening question was simple and could be answered by a video I had done not too long ago. Basically, it asks about CRT tools for the CC, and so I proceeded to present those tools which I showed in my video, still found on Amazon USA today.

Not to get too off topic, but the Color Classic has been a wild and adventurous ride for me. I didn't even have one two years ago. Now, it's about as maxed out as any Color Classic Mystic, sporting a 50MHz full FPU 68040, stereo speakers and more. So whenever I see discussions about the Color Classic, I like to give some thoughts and advice where possible. I hope that you too have one and still get some enjoyment out of it. Retro computers are the most fun when they are fixed up and then put to good use, not just sitting pretty on a shelf.

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no,not that i've seen.They should.

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not a lot of call for that tool for the last 15 years or so ;-)

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©2000 Thomas H. Lee, rev. May 31, 2007; All rights reserved

5.2 Height and Width

If you want the screen to provide true WYSIWYG so that 1” on the display corresponds to 1” in real life, then its dimensions must be precise, or 4.75” x 7.11”, to be more exact (that’s 342x512 pixels at 72 pixels per inch). Unlike the other four adjustments, adjusting the width requires a hexagonal tool made of a NONCONDUCTIVE, NONMAGNETIC material. You can get these tools at places like Radio Shack, where a suitable one is sold as a tuner alignment tool. You can make a serviceable one out of a whittled down wooden chopstick or some similar material. If you use a cheap chopstick, you don’t have to do much work at all. Cheap chopstick wood is soft, so tapering it enough to allow gently jam- ming it into the core of the control is usually good enough. It will conform to the shape of the core well enough to do the job.

The reason for the nonconductivity requirement is that the control is actually a ferrite core inside an inductor carrying large alternating currents. The AC field would induce large currents in a conductive tool, and make it get incredibly hot very quickly, to say nothing of invalidating the adjustment. At the same time, the increased strain that this places on the circuits could cause damage. So, wood or plastic it should be. Once you have the tools, you can save time by tweaking the height to 4.75” and then adjusting the width until diag- onal rows of raster dots are at right angles to each other. A piece of paper or a floppy disk or any other handy object with right angles will do as a good template for this purpose.

If you don’t care about WYSIWYG, then just making the dots at right angles is good enough to preserve proper aspect ratio.

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Todd さん、ありがとうございました!
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