Problem: Error codes 26 or 42 after turning on too many heating elements.
Potential issue: Damaged electronic board
Specific case: Error code 42 after turning on more than 3 elements, then already after 2, 1 until none of the cooking element could be turned on, over a period of a few weeks.
Root cause: Dying/blown electrolytic capacitor on the main electronics board.
Solution:
- Turn off power (circuit breaker) - caution high voltage inside the cooktop
- Lift the cooktop out of the hole in the countertop and slide it on a flat surface
- Remove all screws around the metal housing using a torx screwdriver
- Carefully tilt the glass top out of the housing on the front, noting that there are electrical connections in the rear, and place the rear end of the glass on a stable surface. You may need someone's assistance here.
- After double-checking that there is no power, record the color coding of the four wires connected to the glass assembly (green for ground, white, black, red from left to right)
- Next open the black plastic cover by removing four Torx screws.
- Carefully remove from the connector on the left the the plastic strip connecting to the display board.
- Carefully remove the circuit board with relays and capacitors that is held in place by plastic tabs.
- If one of the capacitors is bulging out or showing sings of damage on top, replacing it may fix the appliance. De-soldering a bad capacitor requires some tools and skill. Replace the capacitor with at least the same capacity, voltage and use high-temp. 105C version) Alternatively, instead of replacing a $2 component you will have to replace the entire board.
- Reassemble and done.
25 件のコメント
Great fix. Fixed my cooktop for $4 in parts plus $12 for the soldering iron.
My same model cooktop showed similar symptoms, except like Capt Kirk fading from one universe to the next, it appears my (flux) capacitors were fading in and out of the working universe. Both my 470 microF capacitors were bulged and very slightly leaked.
Circuit board work is not my strong suit - I can sweat pipe, but those tiny connections with heat sensitive components are hard. Nevertheless I managed to get the old ones out and put two new ones in.
I'm not sure who I'm thanking, but Thanks!
Richard Skeirik - 返信
Being the unknowing person that I am where did you find the caps? bonitajay@comcast.net
Jay Wilker -
Really appreciate the tip. Ordered 2 caps (even though only one was bulging, I replaced both) of same dimensions. Replacements came and were 5MM shorter than represented, but same specs so hope they work for the long term. The replacement complete circuit board module is about $400 I was told. Thanks again - am now going to do the same with a motherboard in my tower that failed with 4 fat caps!
J. Walters
jim walters - 返信
Excellent advice, worked out perfectly. I changed all the electrolytics on the board, took a while to source the parts (due to the clearances required) but figured they will all split sometime down the road. Had to settle for the 105C components but hopefully they will work out.
Thanks again.
Happy cooking!
Les - 返信
Thank you so much!!! Appliance store said nothing they could do to fix cook top. So, we were ready to replace circuit board for ($ 500.00) or buy new cook top ($ 1,000.00) when we decided to try to replace the capacitors. We couldn't find the parts (capacitors) locally so we order them on Amazon. So far so good worked perfectly! Again thank you so much!
:) Happy Cook!!!!
Dee - 返信
This worked for me. It took a while to get the two caps unsoldered from the of board, but this was a very helpful walk through. One point that was a bit glossed over: after noting color codes of the four power leads, disconnecting them makes it much easier to lay the top flat. Thanks for the detailed breakdown. Saved us a $500 board replacement service call.
dakotakid - 返信
Anyone has any issue after replacing the caps? I tried to fix and gotten the cooktop to work, but after a few days of "normal" operation, the cooktop stop working. Now when pressing the START, there is no light come up at all. The unit is not powering up. Anyone has any idea about what might be the issue? Do I need to get a service call to repair the cooktop?
paulwchau -
Thanks so much for posting this fix! I just got through it on a similar model (Bosch NET9652UC), replacing the 25V capacitors with 35V as suggested on another site. Both of my 470 microF capacitors had bulged and slightly leaked, and so I'm hoping this will solve the problem. Our cooktop had started giving us "Err 42" any time it was colder than about 68 degrees F in the house. One part of the fix that wasn't obvious to me when working on it was in step 7 above: removing the tape-like plastic strip of wires connecting to the display board. I thought I had to pull the black box at the end of the plastic strip off of the board to disconnect it, but actually the strip itself comes out of the box -- the box is permanently attached to the board. So don't try too hard to pull it off! Seems to me that this problem with the capacitors is a basic design flaw in their cooktops and they should have recalled them or should fix them for free. I wonder if the replacement boards they sell have different capacitors.
EcoProf - 返信
Hi, how did the 35 v vs the 25v work out for your cooktop. We also have the 9652uc with the same problem.
Thanks! Al
Sandra Millward -
Eco Prof or anyone who used the: 470uF, 35v, 105c cap, how is it working from perspective of time? I know it allows more voltage to go to the mother board, did it fry anything over the years? Maybe it will fry the mother board or the breakers at some point? I just don't want to wait for the 25v for 2 months and was able to get 35v today in stock at Radio Shack. Had to visit 2 of them because there was one at each store. I would hate to see one day my house on fire because of the stupid cap that I bought... Please give me some feedback from someone who used the 35v in place of 25v.
All the best.
stanislaw.rey -
The "35v" caps, that I chose to install (Panasonic) continue to perform excellently ... NO issues at all with HEAVY USE! When picking a replacement it is important to carefully CONSIDER the overall dimension/SIZE of the replacement caps, available replacement space is limited (read "MASSIVE THANK YOU" (in this fixit thread). Also in my review I list two different "replacement" caps that I found readily available ... Both with much higher heat tolerances ... Their "heat tolerance" is a very important consideration, particularly when the cooktop is located above an oven ... The heat typically shortens the life of the Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors .... So check the overall dimensional size of your replacement caps against the "maximum" available space listed in my previous review, to insure the cap will fit without being too tight (squashed into the PCB). NOTE: original cap was by SAMWHA ( 'original' spec-sheet in my prior review), Look at: www.badcaps.org a education on cap-failure.
Dennis in Cupertino CA -
Dennis in Cupertino, CA
CORRECTION: For excellent information about CAPACITOR FAILURES, the correct link is:
WWW.BADCAPS.NET
… the site explains why many consumer products have experienced excessive rates of failure in these parts.
Dennis in Cupertino CA -
A huge thanks for this post. I was able to buy two replacement capacitors from Amazon for $3.50 each. Item link: http://amzn.com/B0195UVHCA I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, so the actual fix was pretty quick once I gained access to the system board.
Scott Savett - 返信
MASSIVE THANK YOU !
ER42
Fnd 2 blown Caps as in photo
OEM Bosch Cap:
SAMWHA WM
470 uF
V 25
105 C
10mm x 16mm
Google: https://encrypted.google.com/url?sa=t&rc...
Max Cap size avail for replacements: 12.5 mm x 21.5 mm.
I used Nichicon VZ(M) Series, 470uF, 35v, 105c www.digikey.com ; possible rpl fit - Panasonic TP Series 470uF, 35v, 125c, 12.5mm x 20.55 mm.
-Enclosure TORX #20;
-Soldering temp 760-770 F;
* Big help: “micro-drills” for PCB $3 / Amazon Ebay; bits cleared solder in holes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-0-3mm-to-...
DENNIS F.
Dennis in Cupertino CA - 返信
Tools NOTE: I ordered and used the “AVEN 17010 Adjustable Circuit Board Holder” (Home Depot or Amazon or EBay or 100 other places) for about $12 … It worked extremely well to solidly hold the PCB while I worked on it. It was the cheapest and by far my favorite choice to adjust the position of the PCB as I removed and replaced the Capacitors!!
Dennis in Cupertino CA -
The error 42 would show intermittently. I replaced the two capacitors and now works GREAT. Many thanks for the $6.78 fix (amazon took a few weeks to receive.... slow boat from China) . I was able to remove and replace without issue, just flipped the breaker off, lifted out and flipped over, no need to disconnect. The whole job took 20 minutes in total and I don't have too steady a hand nor the greatest eyes LOL. I recommend the fix it was well worth it. Many thanks for the input.
Ken K - 返信
Another success story! I replaced the two bad capacitors and it works. Fantastic! Thank you!
Ted Parker - 返信
After following this thread for over a year, I had to finally do something as the spastic ER42 was coming up at supper time. I was at the point where I'd turn off the breaker, wait 10 sec and then when I'd turn it back on my wife would immediately turn on an element...
Although a successful repair, it's not as easy as it seems for someone that's not familiar with soldering (ie. me). I suggest you take some time to google common soldering procedures and remember to be patient.
As for purchasing the capacitors, I searched locally (I'm in Montreal, QC, Canada) and found a little store that carries all these things for $0.50 or less...crazy cool find and actually spent some time looking up some other gadgets (https://abra-electronics.com/).
Garrett
Montreal, Canada
Garrett Austin - 返信
Great BIG THANKS to all the posts! Replaced both caps, purchased Nichicon 35v from Amazon. First time with a soldering iron. Helpful hints for those new to this:
1. Go on YouTube to watch all the ways to remove caps and to solder. Tinning new soldering iron is very helpful hints.
2. Note difference between electronic solder and flux versus plumbing solder & flux! Lots of driving and returns to the local hardware stores.
3. Get an extra pair of hands to hold board while removing old solder and wires.
4. Take a lot of pictures to keep track of all the wiring and polarity of the caps.
5. Save $500 on mother board plus labor!
Steven L - 返信
Hi All,
I’m getting intermittent F2 and F4 errors which shut down the entire unit on my Bosch NET7552UC 500 Series Electric Cooktop.
Could this also be related to the bad capacitors?
Thanks!
Russ Roland - 返信
Hi All,
I’m getting intermittent F2 and F4 errors on my Bosch NET7552UC 500 Series Electric Cooktop (very similar, if not identical control board).
Could this be related to bad capacitors?
Either way, it’s an inexpensive trial even if it doesn’t solve the issue…
Thanks!
Russ Roland - 返信
Hi Ross … YES … having experienced similar ‘errors’ on ours, I would say yes!!
Here are a few of my thoughts on this topic:
Narrow down the probability of “cap failure” (actually it’s often a gradual failure) would be to try the “old hairdryer trick”. Take your, or wife’s, hairdryer … blow over the control panel for approx 45 seconds to get the control board up to >68F (commonly quoted ‘temp’ above which failing caps can exhibit life. If no errors, follow direction above (w-helper), pull cooktop, unscrew cover, look at 2 large caps (see Picts of failed caps).
During our gradual ‘er- coding’, as room temp reached >68F the cooktop worked normally … for short time.
Plan, practice soldering on a junk PCB, read rec’s above, review pics, get tools & caps (mine Nichicon/Japan, or Panasonic/Japan) with temp of 105F or higher @ 35v … MIND THE CAP_LENGTH for fit (digikey.com specs)
‘New PCB’is $$$. Web-search “Repair of Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors’ on PCB’s, for more info!
Best,
Dennis F.
Dennis in Cupertino CA -
Russ,
I have F2s on one of my burners and the capacitor fix didn’t solve it. How was yours fixed?
Thanks, Peter
Peter Streiff -
This tutorial WORKS people!! Thank you so much for saving me a LOT of money, you are a life saver :)
Amelie Menard - 返信
We recentky replaced with Nichicon UVZ1V471MPD-5 Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V, 470uF, 10 mm x 16 mm, 20% Tolerance. Worked great for 24 hours then the next day while in use shut down. Checked power and breakers. Now it works for a bit and shouts down again. Any insight?
Jaime C Sepulveda - 返信