Ben

I think the charger port flex are identical but I need to make sure before I try to solder one on.

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat....

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a...

Are you using a original charger? I have had aftermarket chargers throttle the speed of the processor on the laptop.

Is the housing bent on the sides in any way to where the logic board might be bending? Have you tried cleaning the digitizer connectors on the board with 99% isopropyl alcohol to see if it may fix the problem?

Well if you have no audio chip on the board the audio functions won’t work from that so the audio IC needs to be replaced + jumper wires attached to certain pads that have a tendency to have weak connections.

Usually it’s either bad mounting of the clamp (could be not screwed on tight and/or upside down) or no thermal paste / thermal paste wasn’t replaced after disassembling the PS4. Also need to ensure all thermal pads for the VRAM chips are present near the APU. Make sure to have thermal paste ready and clean up the PS4 up to the fan as this is strongly recommended: PlayStation 4のファンの交換

Insulated enamel wire requires pre-tinning as you need to scratch off the enamel coating which is non-conductive. In a pinch you can use for example the copper / magnesium wire from a earpiece speaker if you wanted. Doesn’t have to be the same size of the pad it could be smaller or half the size. Larger jumper wires are only required for high power circuit traces / connections.

Is the housing original or aftermarket? Some aftermarket housings may not have proper connections to use the housing as an antenna. I’ve read in some posts that adding a bit of solder on the connection points on the housing may solve the problem. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Yeah the pre-applied adhesive strips generally aren’t enough I put B7000 liquid glue on the corners. The bottom right definitely needs it because the ribbon cable for the digitizer pushes the screen up overtime so some liquid glue there will help.

They are different in terms of where the screw mounting holes go. They don’t allow the screen / speaker to connect or to sit in properly. When you mean call audio muffled. Does your friend mean that the person he is trying to listen to (other side of the call) sound muffled for him or is your friend having trouble hearing other people because they sound muffled on the ear speaker? Trying to differentiate between a microphone or a earpiece speaker fault.

I assume this is the digitizer FPC touch screen connector right? You’ll need the following: (1) Soldering iron (2) Fine pointed tweezers for pick up and placement of the old/new FPC connector (3) Solder wire (leaded of course is always better, non leaded has a higher melting point making it harder to use) (4) Hot air rework station: A good quality one goes a long way, the cheap ones may not provide enough heat or constant temperature to remove the old FPC connector quickly and easily. (5) Flux: AMtech NC559-V2-TF (doesn’t have to be exact there are similar models that are good) is what I use. Cheap flux may not let the solder flow well with solder joints, pads or connectors and can increase the chances of solder bridging. (6) Solder Wick: To remove old solder mostly for non-leaded solder to put in place leaded solder. Note that the FPC connector is quite fragile where some pins may break off when unplugging the digitizer ribbon cable. To avoid this always unplug from the shorter end with nail or a flat...

Can you post an image of the phone showing the yellow / black block on the bottom of the screen? I suspect the screen display is failing. iFixitでの質問に画像を追加する方法

That is actually amazing that they decided to keep compatibility on the 10.2.

The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 スクリーンの交換

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.