Ben

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat....

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a...

Replaced Tristar, still same issue, inspected charging port pins, all 8 pins are present and not missing. Could this be...

There's a common problem where the screen cable gets loose from the tablet's logic board and it just needs to be re-seated while the battery is disconnected: Here is a video demonstrating the problem in detail: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-w3fP5bdT8 To stop it from happening again you'll need to add tape to stop it from moving back or getting loose again.

If the glass lens visually looks clean on both the camera and the glass on the iPhone then the rear camera will need to be replaced. You could try blowing some hot air on the rear camera with a hair dryer for a few seconds and see if that helps.

Which tablet is this? I’ve had this issue before where the cursor would just jump every time the pen pressed down onto the tablet. The way I get it fixed is either by restarting the tablet driver service, restart the computer or re-install / update tablet drivers.

You need another tool to remove the joysticks off a controller. As long as the solder when melting turns shiny / malleable then that means the soldering iron is hot enough but needs help with another tool mentioned below: This is the tool you need it is called a “Solder Sucker”. Basically what this does is sucks the melted solder into the tool so that it helps you with having the pins under the object that you are de-soldering not to be soldered together with the pad on the board. Here is a link to the aforementioned tool: https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-ELECTRONIX/dp/B00L2HRW92 Filling the pins and pads with leaded solder will make this process easier. Simply add leaded solder to these pads, heat them up for about 5-10 seconds then use the solder sucker with the nozzle propped against the pad and press the button on the tool to have it suck up the melted solder. You’ll need to do this a few times so that it gets rid most of it properly on all the joystick pads. Once that’s done you...

I recommend taking a picture and posting it here so that we have a better idea on what is broken or detached from the keyboard connector. Use this guide to learn how to add an image to an existing question: iFixitでの質問に画像を追加する方法 If it's the connector that holds the pins that is damaged on the logic board the whole connector may need to be replaced by an experienced micro-soldering technician that does laptop repairs. It may or may not be worth it depending on your circumstances and the value of the laptop. If it's just the retainer flap, these can be re-attached most of the time and if it is like slightly damaged a little scotch tape may be enough to hold it in place and push the pins down so that makes contact and firm connection with the ribbon cable coming from the keyboard.

Unfortunately they already tried to fix it on the 2018 version with the longer cable. Now for the 2019 while the cable is extended it is most likely still affected with the same fault. https://www.ifixit.com/News/apples-2018-macbook-pros-attempt-to-solve-flexgate-without-admitting-it-exists

Need to clean up very thoroughly with the board removed. Then replace thermal paste as it'll need to be replaced when the board is removed. Make sure all roaches have been cleaned out including residue. Then try a replacement power supply. If there is damage done to the motherboard this may be not worth fixing as board repairs for no power generally cost more than a 2nd hand working PS4.

What model is this laptop? There should be a small label sticker under the laptop that has the model number printed, service tag can also help too with identifying what laptop this is. If this laptop has a removable hard drive it may either be loose or the hard drive has failed. In this case the hard drive would need to be replaced and windows will need to be re-installed in order to have the laptop working again.

Problem is caused by the silver rectangle tab on the replacement 6s screens. Easy fix is to tape that ribbon flex in place. You’ll want it highest as possible with the earpiece metal bracket installed. This will fix the problem as it stops the metal plate from catching against the logic board and applying pressure behind the screen which causes that yellow mark.

Uh, I don’t think they are supposed to do that. It sounds like someone had already turned on the phone before.

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Screen Replacement

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.

I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.

Yeah don't listen to this comment. I replace Macbook Pro glass regularly and this is one of the worst ways to do it. I never replace glass without taking the screen assembly from the MacBook first.

The reason why I always separate the screen assembly from the MacBook is because it's just going to increase the difficulty of taking off the glass so much to the point that you regret that you wasted your time trying this and you could of done it in less time if you took the screen off from the MacBook.