Check to see if there is a small gap between the glass screen and plastic bezel. If there is, the back is simply popped out of place. Using light pressure, place your thumbs on the front screen and the rest of your fingers on the back and push the back up and in. A small “click” will let you know if its back in place. Hopefully this is realign the plastic buttons so they work properly.
You’ll need to check three things to make this work: (1) Your new display carries the same connector (40 pins) as your old display (2) Research your GPU specs to see what screen resolution is supported. In most cases, if the connector is the same, it should display video. (3) Check to make sure the LCD is the exact same size dimensions and the mounting brackets are the same as your old LCD. No point in doing the upgrade if it doesn’t fit! Best of luck!
Hi @dibbley I had this same issue with the old Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 where the touchscreen would be flipped or would mirror from the center line. The only way I fixed it was to get a replacement part that matched the model number on the original digitizer cable. Hope this helps!
Hi @charliewhile How does your battery look? iPhone batteries can fail in a way that causes them to swell, sometimes only on the bottom part. As a general rule, if you see these “orange” stress marks on the LCD, there is something pushing the screen back off the frame from the inside. Check the frame directly below the stress marks for anything that might be in the way and remove it.
Have you tried using Assistive Touch? It enables all button features from a small utility on the touch screen: Turn on Assistive Touch - Apple iPhone 4S (1) From the home screen, tap Settings. (2) Scroll to and tap General. (3) Tap Accessibility. (4) Scroll to and tap AssistiveTouch. (5) Tap the AssistiveTouch toggle enable or disable the feature. (6) AssistiveTouch is now enabled. Note: Tap the Circle icon to access the AssistiveTouch features.
Hi @cazio There are two things that could cause this issue…. (1) The LCD didn’t refresh all the way during the reboot process and this screen will go back to normal once the software restore process is complete. (2) OR (3) The LCD has permanent damage known as “LCD Burn” and will need to be replaced to fix this problem. You can check for this when the iPad has completed the restore. Simply change the picture to a full white screen such as a new browser page to see if the marks are still there.
Hi @missmarymack83 Try replacing the CMOS battery. Should be a small battery about the size of a coin attached to the main board. Hopefully you can access it easily by removing a panel on the bottom of the laptop.
Hi Simon This little rubber piece came from the screen assembly. It helps to align the Ambient Light Sensor attached to the Front Camera flex cable. Not at all required for normal function of the iPhone.
Hi @dschnur72 Check your fuse box for a blown fuse. There are usually two boxes one under the hood and another somewhere near or under the steering wheel. After taking the cover off, you should see a diagram of which fuse it could be. While checking for blown fuses, give the starter solenoid a couple of good whacks with a small tool to see if that’s the problem.
Hi @carter84 Try plugging in the device and holding the Home+Power Buttons together for 10+ seconds to reset the device. If there are no hardware problems, it should restart and boot up normally.
During this step, there should be a picture of the flip side showing 4 more Philips screws hidden deep inside the headset. Removing those additional 4 screws is critical to getting the headset opened and continuing to the next step.
During this step, there should be a picture of the flip side showing 4 more Philips screws hidden deep inside the headset. Removing those additional 4 screws is critical to getting the headset opened and continuing to the next step.