Steve Godun

This is a craptastic tablet and I’m quite frankly shocked that there are literally zero references to it on iFixit and...

Customer brought in a Power Mac G5 with a failed HD, and for reasons decided to upgrade to an SSD. I put an Samsung PRO...

Have an Asus G75VW that presented itself with a non-bootable system. Booted from a Win10 USB and chkdsk found a crapload...

I have an HP Envy x360 “convertible” that has a damaged POWER and VOLUME UP switch on the motherboard. The VOLUME DOWN...

A friend of mine upgraded his phone and is giving his old iPhone 6 to his kid, so he asked me to clean it up and check it...

Laptop came to me with the issue of “randomly turning off”. After some experimentation I was able to confirm this. It...

I installed Windows 10 on this laptop a few months ago and everything was fine. It came back to me a couple of days ago...

The watch wasn’t dropped or submerged or anything radical like that. One day the watch was working fine, the next day it...

I’ve replaced dozens and dozens of Samsung screens and have ONLY have a problem with the S5. I have one here with a broken...

Starting with a dead (battery discharged) LG Aristo 2: Plug it into a charger and no LED appears on the phone and the...

Reseat the cartridge. Clean the contacts on the cartridge and the cartridge carrier. Use an OEM Epson cartridge.

"The motherboard gets hot when I press the power button to turn the phone on but the screen is black." This is motherboard damage, specifically the power IC. Repair requires microsoldering skills. I recommend iPadRehab’s mail-in service.

Unless your “humidity” is the rough equivalent of leaving your MacBook inside your bathroom with a hot shower running all day, the odds are very against humidity being the culprit. My first guess would be a failing SSD. Several of the symptoms you’ve mentioned — slow boot, slow login, etc — are indicative of this. I would try opening the bottom case and removing the SSD drive inside. Then close it up, connect a USB3 drive to your MacBook, launch internet recovery (COMMAND-OPTION-R at startup), then install the OS to the USB3 drive and boot from that. If your performance issues go away then you may be looking at a failing SSD. If you’re lucky then replacing the SSD would solve your problem, but there’s also the possibility that the motherboard itself is having an issue communicating with the SSD drive in which case replacing the SSD would not solve your problem.

You need to use a browser other than Safari. Most web servers these days use secure connections (https) which may be too advanced for Safari to comprehend. If you can upgrade to 10.4 then I’d recommend TenFourFox, otherwise look towards iCab (v4.9 is the latest that’ll run on 10.3).

Let’s call your original phone “Phone A” and the for-parts model “Phone B”. You say you moved Home Button A onto Display B, and Home Button A didn’t work. If you put Home Button A back on to Display A, does it work on Phone A? If so, then either Display B is bad or Home Button A wasn’t seated properly on Display B. If not, then Home Button A was damaged during your repair attempt. The Touch ID circuitry is RIDICULOUSLY delicate and very easily damaged.

A grinding noise implies physical movement, and as the only moving part inside the Mac Pro is the fan that kind of narrows the possibilities.

Your keyboard is damaged, likely a liquid spill that got inside. Every number that comes up is directly above and slightly left of the key that you're pressing; W begets 2, T begets 5, etc.

I don't see any video. So far it sounds like you bought a really cheap replacement screen.

First confirm whether this is a hardware or software problem. Take note of the physical spot where that key appears on your screen, then launch several apps and see if that specific physical spot recognizes your touch in those apps. (A drawing or doodling app works great for this.) If it DOES then you have a software issue; if it DOES NOT then you've got a hardware issue.

I think you're talking about one of these (the black part): https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig... If that is indeed what you're talking about, it's not a separate part. It's part of the socket that the ribbon cable fits into. Best case scenario is you only broke the black plastic piece and the rest of the socket is intact, in which case you can try to find the same socket elsewhere, pull the black plastic piece off, and push it into place on your iPod. If the socket itself is damaged, however, the proper repair is to replace the whole socket. Otherwise, look for ways to rig a fix. Put some kapton tape on one side of the cable to provide pressure, slide/press it into place, then some more tape to hold it in place and hope it doesn't come loose. Polyimide Tape

This is unnecessary. You need only open the tan cable release latch from either end of the cable, remove the cable from the socket, and move the cable out of the way.

I believe a revision needs to be made to this guide.

I have a Beats Studio headphone with a “v1.8” revision motherboard, and there is an additional wire in play. Look at the picture of the motherboard in step 14 of this guide. In the upper-right “corner” is one of the screw holes that holds the motherboard to the housing, and directly above it is a large round solder pad. On the v1.6 motherboard this pad is empty, but on the v1.8 motherboard there’s a single-conductor wire that goes from that pad to the very tip of the metal “spring band” that goes over your head while wearing the headphones. Yes, it’s soldered directly to that “spring band”. I suspect this is some kind of grounding wire.