pull off the lower back panel of the fridge, remove the compressor relay cover. This is the square-ish plastic or bakelite box attached to the side of the compressor. Test for voltage at the two compressor leads.
1. dirty condenser – clean the condenser coils and fan 2. temperature setting turned to low – turn temperature setting to colder 3. circuit breaker tripped – power spike – reset circuit breaker 4. compressor won’t start – failed capacitor – replace capacitor 5. defrost timer malfunction – replace defrost timer or computer control board 6. failed door seal – replace worn out door seal 7. failed compressor – replace compressor
Most modern fridges and freezers are frost-free but older models will need regular defrosting to prevent the build-up of ice. You should always defrost if the ice becomes 3mm or more thick.
Look at the condenser coils, located at the bottom of the refrigerator (behind the kick plate) or, in some cases, at the back. These coils disperse heat from inside the refrigerator out into the room with the aid of a fan. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator won’t operate efficiently.
If you see frost at the top of a frost-free refrigerator even when the cold control is set low, it means the refrigerator probably has a full charge of refrigerant but the thermostat is faulty or out of calibration
