iPhone 4S Logic Board
I found this step to be easier when starting at the side buttons as pictured, working around the back of the mouse to loosen the back half of the ring, and then carefully prying the front portions of the ring, which seem to have the most adhesive that you need to loosen. If you get stuck or the rings starts to bend from one direction, resume on the other side.
Worked great for old USB mouse. For USB, Steps 7-9 are the same, key steps fro the fix.
For USB disassembly:
Step 3: This works best starting at the side buttons working around the rear of the unit (opposite the cord), then carefully prying up the front.
Step 4: There are only 3 pivot points on the USB mouse: 2 rear/side, one just under the cord entry point. If you can see it, you can push the front pivot in a bit to release the unit. I had no issues working from the back, though, before I knew this was the case.
Step 6: Flex cables are a differently located, as others have noted. I found I could remove the assembly (Step 7) without disconnecting the cables. I did disconnect the one attached to the assembly prior to cleaning.
Scrolling along happily now…
Aligning with the black pointy “thing” definitely helps. Also, the small copper end of the contact piece is supposed to stick up once attached, to make contact with the back plate of the phone after re-assembly. The piece slides under the silver metal plate, and the the pointer can be used to align the silver plate hole and the black/copper plate hole in place for the screw.
If your driver is just spinning in this step, you may be trying to turn the offset screw instead of the phillips screw beneath the tape. The tape is not obvious, and I found tweezers helpful when removing it.
Be careful to lift the battery out at the angle shown here. You may need to use a spudger to get it started. The little plastic overhang on the left side of the battery clip in this picture is extremely easy to break! And it’s the only thing that holds the battery in place.