Those power meters sure are handy! If you plug the power meter into the live USB cable (not the computer), does it light up by itself? Does it then go out when plugged into the laptop? Do both Thunderbolt ports on the laptop behave the same way? I had one Thunderbolt port die on my laptop of the same model.
You just need to drop by the App Store and download the Garmin Connect app to your new iPhone. Then launch the app and sign in with your Garmin account credentials. If you don't remember your account password, there is an opportunity to reset it as you follow the login process in the app.
There's an iPod touch I use for work which did the same thing after the battery ran to zero while I was away for a few weeks. Nope, iOS devices use the main battery for everything, including timekeeping. There's no extra battery. I haven't tried this guy's recommendation, but it sounds plausible. Perhaps whatever network you're on has blocked access to Apple's time server, for whatever capricious reason, in which case his answer will likely help you: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/3258...-date-time-set-automatically-gives-wrong-time#32588078 Update (08/17/2018): Okay, I simulated what I suggested with the aforementioned iPod touch from work, and was able to fix its time issue. I guess Apple’s time servers are blocked at work, because within seconds of connecting the iPod to my home Wi-Fi network, it acquired the correct time. The reason your other devices have the correct time is your iPhone X likely has access to the time server over cellular if it can’t get it over Wi-Fi. Not sure where your MacBook...
Absolutely replace it, just very careful not to puncture the battery in the process. The result of puncturing a lithium battery can be fire and/or explosion ... we're not concerned about mere leakage here. In my experience, if you're being careful and taking your time, it is relatively difficult to puncture the battery in practice, so don't stress about it but just be aware of what you are dealing with. P.S. Don't throw the old battery in the garbage. It needs to be recycled properly.
Those online instructions were for vivosmart, not vivoactive, hence the confusion. The vivoactive display gets brighter the more ambient light there is since it primarily relies on reflecting ambient light back out. There is no way to control brightness in that respect. In darker environments, you can turn on the backlight by pressing the power button. The watch really loves being outdoors where it's easier to see the display!
The only way to pair a Garmin watch is through the Garmin Connect Mobile app. You can't pair it like another Bluetooth device (such as a keyboard) in Settings > Bluetooth on your iPhone. If you don't have the app, go to the App Store and search for Garmin Connect, download it, and follow the instructions in the app to pair the watch.
iFixit's staff are really helpful. If you need help with something, I'm sure they would be happy to help you. (Perhaps I should have asked them first :D) From personal experience with my older iPhone 3G, if it's broken to the point that it actually won't work properly (i.e., a faulty Home button – an iPhone without a Home button isn't much use), just take the thing apart and do your best to fix it. My rationale is that if it doesn't work anyway, you have nothing to lose. Even so, I take care while repairing things. Check out this page to find out if iFixit has a guide to show you through your problem to the solution.
Thanks for the look inside one of these industrial-size high bay lights!
It would be fun to make it go again … the driver looks like a relatively simple device, and a bit of probing with an oscilloscope, and a lot of thinking and schematic sketching, might reveal which component died. :)
In practise, the efficiency of an LDO regulator is dependent on how much voltage it is dropping. While operating, an LDO is effectively a resistor that varies in real-time to ensure its output voltage stays stable despite changes in load current.
Power = I (current) x V (voltage)
Since an LDO is a resistive element, yes, it burns off energy as heat in this process. So an LDO dropping 18V to 5V could be very inefficient, more so when driving a higher current load as shown by the formula above. However, if an LDO is used to generate a 3.3V rail from a 5V rail, it is dropping just 1.7V, resulting in less power dissipation for the same load current.
You’re right, using an LDO for a large voltage drop is not good electrical design. But LDOs have excellent noise rejection performance, meaning they can take a noisy rail from a switching buck/boost converter with lots of transient or high-draw components on it, and create a much cleaner rail for lower-current, more sensitive devices. This is what I expect Apple’s doing.
Great teardown and history lesson! I didn’t know what ADC was—a proprietary Apple interpretation of DVI. Apple hasn’t changed a bit, for better or worse. The world is a better place for it though :)
Neat look inside the most unique key fob in recent memory. Thanks for posting!
The only thing that's missing is a rundown of the ICs on the board. If you don't mind, can you add a close-up of each side of the board and write out the numbers inscribed on each package? Armed with that info, we can see what parts and vendors Tesla used in the key fob, and this is one of the things I find most interesting.
I’m still confused about how the display data cables interact with the hinge. In the 2016 MBP teardown, I thought iFixit said they get rolled up or something. While the pictures in this teardown helped shed some light on this mechanism, I’d really like to see some detailed shots of how exactly that all works. Maybe in classic iFixit style where the position of just a few things within the frame changes seemingly magically between two pics. Thoughts/comments?
Come on, it's got to be better than 3! This is a marked improvement over the last several editions of iMac, and that deserves some praise and positive reinforcement.
I would have liked to have seen if the camera indicator LED is powered from the same source as the camera itself. This is an important security feature in other MacBooks, and only iFixit can keep Apple accountable as we move forward. Still got that display lying around?
Really awesome guide. I appreciate the time you took to take those shots and put it together; it really cuts down on the time (and guesswork) it takes for me to repair something. One thing -- those are Torx T5 screws, not T4. The T4 bit I was using almost stripped the head of one of the tighter screws as I was trying to remove it.
It's pretty amazing how simple the inside of a phone looks these days.
Thanks for the look inside one of these industrial-size high bay lights!
It would be fun to make it go again … the driver looks like a relatively simple device, and a bit of probing with an oscilloscope, and a lot of thinking and schematic sketching, might reveal which component died. :)
In practise, the efficiency of an LDO regulator is dependent on how much voltage it is dropping. While operating, an LDO is effectively a resistor that varies in real-time to ensure its output voltage stays stable despite changes in load current.
Power = I (current) x V (voltage)
Since an LDO is a resistive element, yes, it burns off energy as heat in this process. So an LDO dropping 18V to 5V could be very inefficient, more so when driving a higher current load as shown by the formula above. However, if an LDO is used to generate a 3.3V rail from a 5V rail, it is dropping just 1.7V, resulting in less power dissipation for the same load current.
You’re right, using an LDO for a large voltage drop is not good electrical design. But LDOs have excellent noise rejection performance, meaning they can take a noisy rail from a switching buck/boost converter with lots of transient or high-draw components on it, and create a much cleaner rail for lower-current, more sensitive devices. This is what I expect Apple’s doing.
Great teardown and history lesson! I didn’t know what ADC was—a proprietary Apple interpretation of DVI. Apple hasn’t changed a bit, for better or worse. The world is a better place for it though :)
Neat look inside the most unique key fob in recent memory. Thanks for posting!
The only thing that's missing is a rundown of the ICs on the board. If you don't mind, can you add a close-up of each side of the board and write out the numbers inscribed on each package? Armed with that info, we can see what parts and vendors Tesla used in the key fob, and this is one of the things I find most interesting.
I’m still confused about how the display data cables interact with the hinge. In the 2016 MBP teardown, I thought iFixit said they get rolled up or something. While the pictures in this teardown helped shed some light on this mechanism, I’d really like to see some detailed shots of how exactly that all works. Maybe in classic iFixit style where the position of just a few things within the frame changes seemingly magically between two pics. Thoughts/comments?
Come on, it's got to be better than 3! This is a marked improvement over the last several editions of iMac, and that deserves some praise and positive reinforcement.
Did iFixit suddenly get a legal team? :D
I would have liked to have seen if the camera indicator LED is powered from the same source as the camera itself. This is an important security feature in other MacBooks, and only iFixit can keep Apple accountable as we move forward. Still got that display lying around?
Really awesome guide. I appreciate the time you took to take those shots and put it together; it really cuts down on the time (and guesswork) it takes for me to repair something. One thing -- those are Torx T5 screws, not T4. The T4 bit I was using almost stripped the head of one of the tighter screws as I was trying to remove it.
It's pretty amazing how simple the inside of a phone looks these days.