cityzen

As noted in the comment by m.goodwin24, the micro-USB port can be faulty. If you have extremely good soldering skills, this is something you can fix. It just requires removing the case and resoldering the pins on the port. But note that the pins are very small and close together, so this requires a fine-tip soldering iron and good skill to work on. To verify whether you have this problem or not, you can try a couple of things. One is to use the USB cable to plug the Fire TV into a computer. If the computer doesn’t recognize that any device has been plugged in, you may have this problem. You can also use a USB port power measuring device which you plug in between the power adapter and the Fire TV. If it shows 0 mA current draw, then you probably also have this problem.

You might first try this: http://forums.ilounge.com/ipod-touch/221806-how-unlock-itouch-2.html#post1382018 But if that doesn't work, this will: My ipod is locked and I forgot the password

There is definitely a fuse. Check this: http://hondaaccordforum.com/forum/archiv...-1759.html

Yes, they can. Please refer to this partial teardown: http://forum.tabletpcreview.com/ep121-slate/38468-look-inside-ep121.html

From the ignition switch, follow one of the red wires to a fuse holder. Check that fuse and replace it if necessary. Check the other red wire and follow it to a 3-pin connector. Make sure that connector is fine, and then keep following the wire to a diode. If everything else is good, then you might try replacing that diode. It might be internal to the motor, though. I found the parts diagrams for your mower by searching for murray + the model number. They showed the wiring diagram. You can also get replacement parts there.

Edit: Victor's idea of using a 0.1mm metal feeler gauge looks like the best solution. It needs to be inserted into the side closer to the screen. If there's any room to slide a piece of paper or mylar plastic between the top of the tray and the slot, then that piece of paper or plastic may help prevent the card from hitting the side of the case. You might try shoving the plastic in deeply, the pulling on it a little as you try to release the card. Also, have you tried holding the iPad with the screen facing up while trying to release the tray? If you look at the first picture in the iPad 2 3G/CDMA teardown, you'll see what the problem can be. If you made the card a millimeter too short, the SIM spring contacts will push the SIM up against the chassis and prevent it from ejecting. You'll need to find some way to shove something, whether flat like paper or perhaps something like a stiff thin wire, into the space between the tray and the slot and use it to keep the card's front edge down as it is ejected. If...

Apparently, the Qualcomm MDM6600 performs that function. At least, that is what everything thinks (as shown by a web search).

First, I'd try to diagnose the home button a little. If you hold multimeter probes to the button contacts, does the meter register any continuity when you press the home button? If so, then the switch itself works, and you need to try and clean the contacts. Otherwise, you can get a replacement front panel pretty cheaply (not including the LCD). Short of that, though, you might try just lifting the front panel up just enough to touch the mating contact points with a metal object to short them together (ie, this should electrically be the same as pushing the button). If you look at step 3 of any of the guides, you should see the two gold squares between the fingers of the left hand; those are the button's mating contact points.

I had a case like that; I believe I was able to remove the screws using a small flat screwdriver that was able to fit tightly enough into the screw head. Once I removed the screws, I replaced them with regular phillips head.

Screen problems like you describe could be due to the flex cable not making proper contact with the circuitry on the glass layers. This may or may not be easily fixed, depending upon how the cable is attached. Sometimes there's just a clamp that requires more pressure. But usually it's bonded with adhesive, and this may be impossible to deal with without specialized equipment. But if you are able to open up the device and still have it operable, sometimes you can just try squeezing on different parts and see how that affects it.

No, it is not necessary to remove the battery.

I'll give you big kudos if you can wind that coil back up and have it work again.

One point to remember when disassembling a compact Mac: If you've installed the "Reset/programmer's buttons" over the vents at the bottom side back corner, you should pop them out before removing the case back. Otherwise, they'd tend to snag on the motherboard back plate. The buttons provided a way to reset the Mac without having to turn it off. There was also a NMI (non-maskable interrupt) button that could be useful for programmers (like a hardware ctrl-C to break into a hung program).

Ah, the Hyperdrive: http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=hyperdri...

I was thinking of something like the Dove MacSnap: http://www.vintagemacworld.com/macsnap.h...

The Hyperdrive was pretty rare & expensive, whereas upgrade kits like the MacSnap eventually became cheap & common.

You're thinking of the SCSI interface upgrade. It clipped over the CPU and a ribbon cable was snaked out through the battery door. As far as installing an internal drive, you had to remember that it would be a while before 3.5" HDs would even be available, and that they were initially the same height as 5.25" 1/2-height drives (full height being about 3.25").

A USB2.0 adapter would not be suitable for fast-action video. I wouldn't count on the other options, either. You can find cheaper adapters than the one I pointed out, which was just the first I happened to come across. Another example is: http://www.ambery.com/2covivgatodv.html

Actually, looking at the specs for your notebook, you should have a DisplayPort, and you can get a cheap adapter from that to DVI-D.

You would need something like this:

http://www.datapro.net/products/vga-to-d...

It requires a converter with active electronics; a passive adapter would not work.

A different rev. of the Rift might support analog input, but this one does not appear to have the signals hooked up (based on what I can see, which isn't quite enough).

I think they are getting a little more impatient in their teardowns.

It looks like the mistake here was pulling off both the yellow/green flex circuit and the black tape at the same time. Presumably, if you'd lifted off just the black tape, you would have been able to unsolder the flex circuit from the logic board.

Could you please show an image of the other side of the motherboard?

I'm trying to understand how the battery connects to it.