Ed D

You may have inadvertently turned the key on and left it on for just the right amount of time then turned it off where-by starting the key learn sequence in GM's Vehicle Anti Theft System or VATS . The VATS may not be programed to the key now and all you have to do is go to this link and follow the directions. My ignition on my 1999 Tahoe was vandalized, and the Anti-theft is Good luck and I hope it works.

If it has the Triton V10, the fuel pump is inside the gas tank and the tank will require removal to gain access to the pump. I’m not sure if this vehicle has an impact switch but that is a Ford chassis and it is worth a look in the owners manual and all along the chassis for that switch. You may only need to reset it. They pop up from any impact, even hitting it with your bare hand. Rough roads over time will pop one up.

First of all and most importantly, check to see if the coolant is full when the engine is cold. If the coolant is low and to the point it is not touching the tip of the temperature sensor, it will delay the signal to the gauge and the engine may be to the overheat level before the gauge moves. Do not check the coolant when the engine is hot (you could get burned). Do not add coolant when the engine is hot (you can crack the hot parts when the cold water hits them) . It most likely is the temperature sensor has failed or the temperature sensor wires are damaged (rodent damage). So first thing is check the coolant level in the morning and top off as needed. If it was low then you have a leak and must get it looked at to find and repair the leak. If it was not low on coolant then the wires need to be inspected. Now if you take the vehicle to a repair shop or the dealer and they find that mice ate the wiring (rodent damage), they are going to tell you the harness will require replacement and if the rodent...

Most likely it is a part called a “Clockspring”. It is a flat band of wire wrapped up inside a black housing behind the steering wheel. It allows the wires that connect to the different options on the steering wheel to stay connected as you turn the wheel. The wires wind up into a tighter wrap in one direction of steering wheel turn and unwinds in the opposite direction of steering wheel turn, just like a spring in a clock or wristwatch. It is not a repairable part and has to be replaced as a unit and it is easy to do. It will require a steering wheel puller. If you do not have a red “Air Bag” warning light on the dash while you are driving you can expect that to come on soon as well. Not all the wires inside the clockspring housing are broken yet. If the Air Bag light in the dash does come ON, it does not mean it is going to deploy, it means it most likely Will Not deploy in and accident.

E Carson's answer is perfect but I would like to add to Step #3. If the Security light does not flash, the small white switch located on the top of the lock cylinder bore may have been damaged. That switch has a small white button that gets pushed upward when the key is inserted into the lock cylinder. Sometimes that button gets shaved off if the lock cylinder is forcefully removed. Without that button the Passlock System will not know there is a key in the switch and therefore it will not enter the relearn. The small white switch is part of the steering column wiring harness and not sold separately but, you can go to any self serve wrecking yard and remove the switch from the column by pushing the tiny TAB at the back of the switch IN while you rotate and lift the switch out of the hole. Then cut the wires long enough so you can crimp or solder them back into your vehicle. There are so many GM vehicles they don't mind you buying the switch separate, just make sure the switch works (bring and OHM meter)and...

Can you provide the make, model, year, the engine size, is it an automatic or manual transmission or if it is 4 wheel drive. I will try to give you the location of the connector.

That hose is a vent hose only. Generally it is a short piece of hose about 6” long, attached to the vent tube and some of them go all the way to the back of the transmission and end. The shifting problems have nothing to do with that hose. The shifting problems will require a scanner and possibly a pressure gauge to diagnose. Could be as simple as a bad solenoid, but you have to read the codes in the diagnostic memory and start working from that information. Pull the dip stick and see if the fluid is dark brownish colored and smells burned. Honestly, if the fluid smells burned or brownish in color there is a good chance the transmission will require a rebuild. If you can pull the codes and reply back, I will see if I can steer you in the right direction from there.

Are you sure you don’t have the dash lights dimmed all the way to the off position? On the left side of the dash next to the headlight switch there should be a gray wheel you can rotate up for brighter dash lights or down to dim or turn off the dash lights. If you rotate it up until it clicks the interior dome light will come on. Try rotating that wheel at night time with your headlights on and see if they work after that. If not you have to check the dash light fuse. Reply if it does not work and I will see if I have another answer for you.

Most likely it does not have a Posi-Traction rear differential and it's not broken. You just need to get it out of the mud or at least the right rear tire out of the hole it dug. If the truck had Posi-Traction both wheels would drive. But a non posi will spin the wheel with least amount of traction. There is a technique for driving in the mud or snow with an open rear differential and one of the main things is to avoid any tire spin. In a Chevy it is difficult to master. In a Ford you can select Drive 2 and it will start from a stop in 2nd gear. It makes it difficult to spin the wheels. The Chevy will still start in 1st gear even with Drive 2 selected. Once the right tire digs a hole it becomes time for a tow or a jack and wood, rocks and dry dirt, or wait for dry weather and let the ground dry out. Don't take anything apart. Just get it out of the mud.

Yes, it's possible the turn signal switch is failing, but it's most likely still in the turn signal flasher. The right side bulbs might have enough resistance to heat the flasher and get it working so when you switch back to the left side the flasher continues to work. Before you buy anything, try switching the turn signal flasher with the Hazard flasher. That flasher will flash even with no bulbs. The fact the brake light goes out is showing the turn signal switch is working to some degree. It switches the power coming from the brake light switch and sends it through the turn signal flasher. If switching the flasher works, try using a TRIDON #EL12 flasher unit. If it only happens when you have your foot on the brake, then you have a ground issue. Also if you installed any (front or rear) of the turn signal bulbs with LED bulbs you need to install a Flasher designed to work with the LED bulbs (like a Hazard flasher). The LED bulbs draw extremely low current and will not heat up the factory designed #552...

Once you get the two edges of the SIM card and SD Card trays popped up you can easily remove the cover using a small pocket screwdriver by putting the screwdriver blade sideways in the groove between the cover and bottom case. Then slide the small edge of the blade foreword in the groove between the cover and case popping it open as the larger part of the blade spreads it apart. Be sure to go all the way around. Do not attempt to pull open the case once you can get your fingers under it. Do not push the screwdriver directly inside the case. Sliding along the case it should only be in a groove about 0.030” or .75mm deep and it will work like a zipper.

The battery four wire connector lifts straight up. Gently pry up from under the wire end using the iFixit tool #IF145-335-2 or similar tool. Reinstall it by aligning it over the top and pressing straight back down. Check it lays flat using the same tool.

There is a small amount of adhesive all around the screen holding it to the frame. You may not need extra adhesive to complete the job but you should have some ready, just in case. Remove the screen from the frame by holding the edges of the case with your fingers and gently pushing on the metal part of the screen sort of peeling the frame off the screen working your way all the way around.

Don’t remove that small board in the middle picture. No need to remove the two screws mounting it either. Just take care removing the ribbon cable from that board. Also the antenna cable lifts straight up. Use very light prying action with a plastic prying tool such as the iFixit Opening tool #IF145-335-2. When reinstalling the antenna, align it straight over the top of the post and press down using the same tool.