James Finch

I’m developing my DIY cost effective spectrum analysis gear to be able to detect from basically DC to the Gamma frequency...

I have a Samsung HL61A750A1FXZA Not Powering On and Power Cycling with a Green LED flashing on the “LED” LED until finally...

I just invested in a Princeton Applied Research PAR-124a Lock-In Amplifier that came with the 116 Differential...

I found a decent deal on a Lenovo X240 and found it had no HD and no memory. I found online the specifications for the...

I have two riding lawn mowers I decided to purchase to start re-learning small engine repair on. One has a 287707 14.5HP...

I have the ability to use a computer to download files, so can use a thumb drive to transfer files to the Lubuntu 18.03...

Why do I keep getting a TRAY 1 LOAD [TYPE][SIZE] error? Per the Configuration Page printed directly from the Printer...

I picked up a free LG 32LK450 off of Craigslist free listings that has a screen flickering issue. The TV Powers On and...

I picked up a free RCA LED55C55R120Q TV that the screen is only showing the backlight when powering on as well as on the...

I recently acquired a Proscan 32LB30Q that when plugged in the red LED comes on and I hear a relay click in the middle...

Yes, the DLP chip needs to be replaced if the white dots are in place of pixels. I also had an observation of pixels fading to white dots also. I am literally working on a Samsung HL61A750A1FXZA that isn’t powering on all the way where the donor that is working has the same issue you have reads like… though I am finding I might need to just use the HL61A750A1FXZA system for the DLP chip and swap into the HLT6187SAX/AAX hoping the unit not powering on has a good DLP chip. Here is a great video regarding the DLP chip replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhK7bSw4...

The LCD screen backlight is bad for some reason. Whether LCD assembly, BIOS corrupted to not turn on backlight or a fault on the System Board… I am not sure. If anyone has a schematic for the i7 boards for the X240 or any ideas regarding how to repair without replacing the LCD assembly, please feel free to comment. Thanks everyone for your support!

Here’s what I tried with the method under the Edit to verify actual WiFi device: https://askubuntu.com/questions/1144549/...-not-working-lubuntu-18-04-on-lenovo-x131e-amd-e2-1800-no-internet-access/ The last comment in the comments section, that was moved to the chat room, is the procedure I used: https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/939...-on-question-by-jafinch78-wifi-not-working-lubuntu-18-04-on-lenovo-x1

Look into the maintenance kits. This YT site has some great videos regarding and their store seems to be about the same price as what I paid for the maintenance kit on eBay plus there are some other items worth knowing about like the fuser sleeve instead of the whole fuser assembly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9iWn5I6... You might need a maintenance kit and have to remove some iron filings from the clutch that holds on the roller that keeps the bottom sheets of paper from feeding in with the sheet used for printing. You might be able to do like I did with the clutch on the roller that is in the cassette (tray). Here is how to perform the clutch method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNW9TGrK... Here is my iFixit page regarding my issues that sound the same as yours: HP Laserjet 4100TN TRAY 1 LOAD [TYPE][SIZE] error LOAD TRAY 1 LETTER Here is the Device Page I started regarding (Note the 4000, 4100 and 4500 are similar in design and components): HP LaserJet 4100

Unbeknownst to me and I am not sure if related… all other printing attempts have prompted to print from Tray 1 or the system thinks LEGAL size is in Tray 2 and winds up jamming last I tried due to feeding wrong I’m thinking maybe due to firmware on the printer or a sensor off since seems the firmware on the printer would know to measure the length based on time or something I’m guessing. I don’t know for sure exactly yet. Thanks to an answer on Quora, I was motivated to try again and see if detects the LETTER size in Acrobat due to another software setting and maybe that will update the TRAY 2 to LETTER vs the current Configuration Status printout noting TRAY 2 [LEGAL] in firmware since there isn’t an option to set TRAY 2 to LETTER like is noted in the PAPER HANDLING. The printer screen prompts after I select print to TRAY 1 LOAD PLAIN LETTER then I select the GO or VALUE button and the prompt USE PLAIN LEGAL INSTEAD? I press the SELECT button then and the page prints from TRAY 2 though a 41.3 ERROR...

Can you take a photo of the screen before and after the process you describe? I used to use a couple of N410c’s and am selling a docking station on eBay at the moment even… the last of those systems. Neat to see! Might be a network login authentication issue and there isn’t something set regarding a local authentication associated with. What OS are you using?

If the LCD screen isn’t damaged and my guess is not if clearly a vertical section issue that is symmetrical. I would first check that all the ribbon cables are clean (unplug and use some 91 at least% IPA), you can blow out the connector also with an aerosol cleaner like Ultra Duster Clean or better and then make sure they’re re-seated correctly. This is regarding all the ribbon cables going to the T-Con board and out from. Then do the same for the section of the LCD beneath the section that isn’t displaying correctly. Usually, from what I’ve seen sometimes the ribbon cables that connect to the LCD Screen itself can become dislodged, corrode or something happens to the connection and in some cases pressure is required to be placed on the cable so seated in the connector. You can even press your finger on the cable to see if helps once you’ve cleaned that section of the LCD ribbon cables and connector. This is an example of what I am referring to in a Sharp TV example if not one of the boards connections:...

Hi, I recently purchased a SONY Cybershot DSC-W55 from the Goodwill store for ~$6 and am having the same issue. I first changed the battery to verify the battery wasn’t the issue. I did a video here regarding. I did get to work other than I assume the on-board charging module or a pin relating to charging is damaged. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cytg1Tt7...

If you find a service manual… there may be information that you can use to more easily disassemble and find where the power button goes to on the board and bridge those pins with a small screwdriver or wire to try to power on. At that point you can also test and see if the power button is working… unless you totally don’t really have a power button (make sure it’s not the top part only… there might be something you can press still with a smaller tool or pencil tip). Some makes and models have reset procedures where you have to press the power button so many times and hold down for so long. You can read into that online by searching and see if there is that info available. If there is not power button at all… then, if you want to power on, you need to find where the power button leads went to and bridge the open circuit there to trigger the power on process.

My guess is the panel is damaged if this is a newer TV. I can’t quite read what the model is. The new model screens can be very delicate and damage easy. So much, they are packaged specially because of this well known issue. Sometime the vertical lines can be due to the ribbon cable connection at the edge of the LCD screen in contact with the PCB strip along the edge of the screen. Some line issues can be due to a board chip coming off from the board and losing connection. You can test the connection by very careful observing if there is an effect when the ribbon cable is moved. If there is, those may need to be kapton or some kind of tape and maybe even foam padding to keep pressure on the connection of the ribbon cable and PCB. If the issue is the main board chip… then you can replace the board or potentially reflow/reball the chip. Tapping probably won’t do much. I’d press firmly and carefully as that may help bridge contact. My guess is the LCD panel is damaged… and if you don’t have a warranty… worth...

Does anyone sell the ƒ/2.8 glass lens? All I can find is the cover.