Steve Godun

I installed Windows 10 on this laptop a few months ago and everything was fine. It came back to me a couple of days ago with ...

The watch wasn’t dropped or submerged or anything radical like that. One day the watch was working fine, the next day it wasn...

I’ve replaced dozens and dozens of Samsung screens and have ONLY have a problem with the S5. I have one here with a broken sc...

Starting with a dead (battery discharged) LG Aristo 2: Plug it into a charger and no LED appears on the phone and the phone d...

Vintage monitor in need of a replacement power button (the actual switch, not the cosmetic button). Every Google result I loo...

Got a ZTE ZFive 2 in very good condition. The phone has never been opened up (security stickers over the screws still in plac...

Got the digitizer off and the back off. I need to remove the mobo for cleaning. I found and removed four screws and the camer...

Found a T40 that seems to work perfectly except for one tiny detail that I’m having a !&&* of a time figuring out: When you “...

Laptop is currently running BIOS F.03 and Windows 8.1. I downloaded the most current BIOS (F.42rA) available here: https://su...

Replaced the OEM 250GB hard drive with a 1TB Samsung 860 EVO SSD. Booted from a Win10 DVD and it saw the drive, formatted it,...

Rice won't work and often causes more harm than good; rice flour (caused by friction between the grains) gets inside the phone and hardens around the components, plus at best rice is only going to absorb about 7-10% of the water at most. Best results: Open it up, remove the display, disconnect and remove the battery. Give everything else a bath in 99% isopropyl alcohol; this will displace the water that's still inside. If you have access to a sonic cleaner (e.g., a jewelry cleaner), even better. Blow out most of the alcohol with compressed/canned air and let it dry for maybe an hour in a dehydrator if you have one, otherwise in front of a fan overnight. In the morning reassemble with a new battery and (most likely) a new display.

Short of taking the whole thing apart, I would shut it down, disconnect the battery, and suspend it keyboard-side-down between a couple of blocks or cans or something. Then spray 99% isopropyl into the keyboard to wash out as much of the syrup as you can. Aim a small fan upwards to help it dry; let it sit (always keyboard-side-down so the liquids can't drip further into the computer) overnight to make sure it's completely dried out, then try the keyboard. If it still sticks, repeat. If not, reconnect the battery and give it a go.

Microsoft Surface Pro 3 Display Replacement Be VERY CAREFUL; this is not a repair for clumsy hands as the LCD panel is extraordinarily fragile and will crack under very, very little pressure. Adhesive tape (iFixit sells Tesa) is all you need to reattach the display. Make sure the display and frame are both perfectly clean or the tape won’t hold. Tesa 61395 Tape

It's likely a shorted resistor. This video is for the 6 but the 6 Plus is very similar. I had a 6 Plus with exactly what you're describing and replacing the resistor (my first microsolder repair!) fixed it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AJK4mIF...

The one marked just “Screen” comes as a “Part Only” or a “Fix Kit”. The “Part Only” includes (in addition to the screen) a pre-installed earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly, and LCD backplate, which means the only thing you need to move over from your current screen is the home button. The “Fix Kit” includes all of that plus the tools you’d need to do the repair. The one marked “LCD and Digitizer” is just the screen. You will need to move the earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly and LCD backplate over from your current screen, in addition to your home button. It does not include any tools. The easiest way is the “Screen” option but that might mean buying things you don’t need, and really it only removes about 5-10 minutes from the repair process if you’ve never done it before. If you already have the tools then you’re just paying for tools you don’t need. If your existing earpiece, flex cable, etc are good then you’re paying for parts that you don’t need.

Rice and similar home remedies don't work, and in fact often cause more harm. Right now you have Schrodinger's Phone; it's both broken and not-broken. Its destiny depends a bit on luck and a lot on what you do next. The PROPER thing to do is a COMPLETE disassembly, inspection, and cleaning of the motherboard. Reassemble using new ancillary parts (new charging port, new home flex cable, new rear camera, etc), install a new screen and battery, and hope for the best. The good news is if the phone turns on and functions properly after doing this, the odds are very high that there are no secret/unknown problems with the phone and it will likely have a normal lifespan. If you cut corners (e.g., just replace the screen) then you run the risk of allowing corrosion, contamination, or electrical issues to affect your phone in possibly strange and/or phone-damaging ways. A tiny bit of contamination or oxidation under the wrong part of a chip can be a phone-destroying issue.

Nope. This is like the home button on the iPhones; Apple puts in a hardware lock as a “security measure” (which, conveniently, only Apple can circumvent). If you want the screen replaced AND retain NFC functionality, you must pray at the Altar of Fruit.

Take it back to the person who replaced your screen and have them un-root it. Neither dropping the phone in water nor replacing the screen would root the phone. Rooting the phone is a conscious, purposeful act. Saying “the screen was replaced and now it’s rooted” is like saying “I painted my house and now the front door is locked”.

I think you will need to discover and correct whatever issue caused the components to blow in the first place, as well as trace out the whole path to verify that other components haven't also been damaged in a less-visible manner. Schematics: http://schemalaptop.blogspot.com/2016/11...-imac-a1419-27-inch-d8-mlb-free.html

There are no tricks to it. The adhesive that Apple uses for the back glass is INCREDIBLY aggressive. Without specialized tools and equipment, the “easiest” (note the quote-unquote) method is to freeze the housing with liquid nitrogen. This will turn the adhesive very brittle and allow you to scrape it off with comparatively less effort.

I believe a revision needs to be made to this guide.

I have a Beats Studio headphone with a “v1.8” revision motherboard, and there is an additional wire in play. Look at the picture of the motherboard in step 14 of this guide. In the upper-right “corner” is one of the screw holes that holds the motherboard to the housing, and directly above it is a large round solder pad. On the v1.6 motherboard this pad is empty, but on the v1.8 motherboard there’s a single-conductor wire that goes from that pad to the very tip of the metal “spring band” that goes over your head while wearing the headphones. Yes, it’s soldered directly to that “spring band”. I suspect this is some kind of grounding wire.