DunCanP

So I managed to snap the battery connector on my iPod board 820-2437-a. The issue I have is that I managed to get 4 of the...

So, I have a MBP10,1. It’s excellent as my daily driver until recently when my use case changed. I started playing WoW...

Sara, so a few steps may fix it or if not, then I’m sorry to say IMO that you are SOL for any self help methods. From my experience, the OS is corrupted and therefore, the phone won’t behave as expected and mount the onboard storage for you to extract data. First, try to do a reboot to see if the update fixes itself. Process is as follows: Press and release the volume up button > Quickly press and release the volume down button > Quickly press and hold the side button about 10 seconds and release the side button when the Apple logo appears. Second, YMMV using software tools like Tenorshare Reiboot. I’ve had limited success in the past with this but caution you that I do not know enough about the developer and their methods. I only mention this software because I’ve used it but do not make any claims to it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. There maybe additional costs. Lastly, consider doing future updates through iTunes on your mac/PC in the future OR do a reboot BEFORE doing an update to make sure the phone is as...

Any dual stage epoxy would do but it will be messy, smelly, hard to apply, and difficult to clean up…. but it will be air/water tight (assuming you applied it completely and correctly) and vibration proof (of this use case). You can do it… don’t use a fast curing epoxy because you’ll want time to apply, attach, clean-up the epoxy. Make sure you have a decent tool like a toothpick that you can use to apply the epoxy to the edges easily. Also, remove any and all other old adhesive that’s there so that the epoxy has the best chance to bond the plastics together.

@arch It looks like whoever did this wanted only one p-trap but clearly didn’t install it properly. Also since there was no external venting available, they used an internal air admittance valve which is not a problem but it does require you to check it's functionality occasionally as that could also be a culprit (if everything seemed to work well before). Example of how it works: Photo provided courtesy of this site Example of this valve is here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0069KD... Lastly, you know as everyone has told you, that slope is WAY wrong. Here is a sample photo of what it "should" look like:

It is always “possible”. It really depends on a lot of variables like how much liquid was spilled, where it went in the laptop, what components are affected, availability of good repair facilities in your area, the repair facility’s capabilities, and how much money you have to repair. I’m not trying to sound critical but your question is fairly vague so I hope this is enough information for you.

So the glass is epoxy bonded to the digitizer and the LCD display. Because of this, there can be no water penetration to give a watermark like that on a laptop screen. Now that that’s out of the way, the discolouration is a matter of pressure. As most of the contributors has suggested, this is pressure against the LCD from the back (inside) the phone. If you review the iFixit teardown, the top left of the battery is behind that screen (marked in green). This could be a sign of the battery swelling which will cause the battery to not function in the long term and the “bubbling” or swelling will continue across the entire battery. (iFixit image) The iPhone 7 series are sealed phones with an IP rating of 67, which means they are water resistant up to 1m. *IF* you able to, I recommend you get the battery replaced at an apple store with an authentic battery because Apple will seal the unit correctly. This way, any issues, the next person can take it back to Apple. If you take it to a third party, they can...

@ericsoup So a quick search on this topic revealed this has been answered before. I recommend you do a search in the future to help you solve your issue faster. Hope it helps as it’s from a great source @danj iMac won`t power on. Power button pressed = LED # 2 lights up briefly

You put drywall joint compound that is not meant for high humidity environments. Solution, remove all that stuff because it just holds moisture… let the area dry (i.e. - do not shower in that washroom for a day). Then use one of two things: (1) Latex infused silicone caulking like DAP Alex Plus (this is paintable and water RESISTANT) (2) 100% Silicone from any manufacturer (this is usually not paintable but there are some out there now that seem to allow it. These tend to be waterproof) I only recommended DAP because of my experience with them but use whatever brand you like and are comfortable with. TEST it on a piece of wood or drywall so you know the consistency and feel. You *WILL* need to trowel/smooth it over with a finger to push the caulking into the surfaces to bond and make a seal. The trick is to WET YOUR FINGER prior to doing the swipe. Some people put painters tape along the surfaces (as in the above picture) so do that if you aren’t confident of your caulking skills.

So Tabatha, Wifi connection is not the same as internet access. A wifi connection, means you have a connection between your pixel book and your hotspot. Now a strong connection is good and it means less issues with data transfer between the two. If there is issue between your hotspot and it’s network connection to the internet, then your pixel book will see that issue as well. In most cases, it means that there is user interaction needed to further “internet connectivity” beyond the hotspot. It’s possible you need to enter a username and password in a specific webpage usually called a “captive portal”. You see this all the time at a hotel or an airport. They ask for basic info before they give you complete internet access. Usually this automatically happens when you connect to your hotspot, and then try to surf the net. The hotspot will jump in and say inject its own webpage asking for login credentials. If this is something new that has occurred to you, I suggest you call your provider confirm if anything...

@navid, There is a centre screw at the “bottom” of the trackpad that needs to be loosened or tightened. If you are like me (in the past) and tightened it too much, there will be no “click” effect. Image is courtesy of iFixit with my edit in ORANGE.

John, I’m confused are you trying to get into the BIOS or boot from a different drive. If it’s the boot options you need, F11 will do that. Obviously DEL is the BIOS startup key for this machine. If the CMOS is still not clearing, there should be a CMOS clear jumper (or pins you have to short out yourself). I wonder if @jayeff can help here.

THIS IS WRONG!! There is a display cable that needs to be watched for.

Check Step 5 in HP Elite x2 G1 1012 Display Replacement

Kathy,

Comments are not a place to post about your problems. Please consider using the actual forums to get widespread help.

Comments are not a place to post about your problems. Please consider using the actual forums to get widespread help.

If you didn’t put it in some kind of drying cycle, chances are there’s corrosion on the board level and it may not work. Give it a try…

Keep in mind, a warm DRY source like a 100 watt light bulb or even a hair dryer used to dry the board in intervals can shorten that time.

LCD and your digitizer are two different things… most of the time, the digitizer is glued to the LCD but if you have no touch response, it is to do with your digitizer and not your LCD.

Get a new phone or get it to a non-authorized repair shop that can do circuit board repairs. You’ve clearly not listened to removed the power supply BEFORE putting it into the rice…. water takes time to evaporate even in rice so it would take more than 24 hours if you don’t DISASSEMBLE your phone to dry out.