DunCanP

So the glass is epoxy bonded to the digitizer and the LCD display. Because of this, there can be no water penetration to give a watermark like that on a laptop screen. Now that that’s out of the way, the discolouration is a matter of pressure. As most of the contributors has suggested, this is pressure against the LCD from the back (inside) the phone. If you review the iFixit teardown, the top left of the battery is behind that screen (marked in green). This could be a sign of the battery swelling which will cause the battery to not function in the long term and the “bubbling” or swelling will continue across the entire battery. (iFixit image) The iPhone 7 series are sealed phones with an IP rating of 67, which means they are water resistant up to 1m. *IF* you able to, I recommend you get the battery replaced at an apple store with an authentic battery because Apple will seal the unit correctly. This way, any issues, the next person can take it back to Apple. If you take it to a third party, they can...

@ericsoup So a quick search on this topic revealed this has been answered before. I recommend you do a search in the future to help you solve your issue faster. Hope it helps as it’s from a great source @danj iMac won`t power on. Power button pressed = LED # 2 lights up briefly

You put drywall joint compound that is not meant for high humidity environments. Solution, remove all that stuff because it just holds moisture… let the area dry (i.e. - do not shower in that washroom for a day). Then use one of two things: (1) Latex infused silicone caulking like DAP Alex Plus (this is paintable and water RESISTANT) (2) 100% Silicone from any manufacturer (this is usually not paintable but there are some out there now that seem to allow it. These tend to be waterproof) I only recommended DAP because of my experience with them but use whatever brand you like and are comfortable with. TEST it on a piece of wood or drywall so you know the consistency and feel. You *WILL* need to trowel/smooth it over with a finger to push the caulking into the surfaces to bond and make a seal. The trick is to WET YOUR FINGER prior to doing the swipe. Some people put painters tape along the surfaces (as in the above picture) so do that if you aren’t confident of your caulking skills.

So Tabatha, Wifi connection is not the same as internet access. A wifi connection, means you have a connection between your pixel book and your hotspot. Now a strong connection is good and it means less issues with data transfer between the two. If there is issue between your hotspot and it’s network connection to the internet, then your pixel book will see that issue as well. In most cases, it means that there is user interaction needed to further “internet connectivity” beyond the hotspot. It’s possible you need to enter a username and password in a specific webpage usually called a “captive portal”. You see this all the time at a hotel or an airport. They ask for basic info before they give you complete internet access. Usually this automatically happens when you connect to your hotspot, and then try to surf the net. The hotspot will jump in and say inject its own webpage asking for login credentials. If this is something new that has occurred to you, I suggest you call your provider confirm if anything...

@navid, There is a centre screw at the “bottom” of the trackpad that needs to be loosened or tightened. If you are like me (in the past) and tightened it too much, there will be no “click” effect. Image is courtesy of iFixit with my edit in ORANGE.

John, I’m confused are you trying to get into the BIOS or boot from a different drive. If it’s the boot options you need, F11 will do that. Obviously DEL is the BIOS startup key for this machine. If the CMOS is still not clearing, there should be a CMOS clear jumper (or pins you have to short out yourself). I wonder if @jayeff can help here.

My experience is as follows: (1) Disconnect the fan (they spin and generate power but I always err on the side of caution) (2) remove the fan(s). (3) pull any hard grab-able debris with tweezers. (4) then use a can of pressurized air to blow or a vaccum to pull the dusty bits. Just remember the compressed air will blow the dust all over. (5) reverse the process…. but before I do this, I usually check heatsink (if easily removed) to insure the heatsink compound isn’t hard. DO NOT DO THIS if you don’t have replacement compund handy.

From Samsung directly: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answe... Quote for that site for longetivty sake: The My Files app stores every file you have on your phone or tablet. It's like the File Explorer on a PC or Finder on Mac, where you can easily view and move photos, videos, music, documents, and more. (1) Navigate to and open the My Files app. It's usually in the Samsung folder. (2) Select your desired file category. You can choose between Images, Videos, Music, Documents, Downloads, Installation files, Compressed, and Favorites. (3) If needed, select any additional folders that contain your desired files (i.e. Screenshots, etc.). Touch and hold the file(s) or folder(s) you want to move. (4) Tap Copy to create a copy of the files in a different storage area. Or, tap Move to completely remove the file and move it to a new location. (5)  Next, navigate to and select your desired destination: (5.1) Internal storage: Move the file(s) or folder(s) to a different location within the same internal storage....

Dana, I’ve had limited exposure to Surfaces but what I recall bitlocker and encryption are enabled by default. I’ve never tried to move an encrypted drive to another Surface but I suspect this is not possible (otherwise what’s the point of encryption IMO). You can turn them both off but I’m still not certain if you can migrate the drive to another Surface even then. If the Surface can STILL boot with an external PSU, I suggest you do that, connect an external monitor through the minidisplay port (either using an adapter or a display port capable monitor) and getting your data out that way. I see that your question has been unanswered for 4 days so I hope this does help you in some way.

This really depends on your location, abilities and the replacement part availability. If this netbook works for you, consider replacing the keyboard rather than filling a landfill with e-waste. It looks like the parts are available, but you would have to remove all the components before being able to get to the keyboard. If you do attempt this, my recommendation is take a photo of everything BEFORE you disconnect it so that you can reference it back when you reassemble. Also it looks like the replacement keyboards come with the full top plate as it’s probably riveted or perma-installed with it.: https://www.laptopkeyboard.com/keyboards...-one-cloudbook-11/ao1-131/ (this is a quick example and I do not condone or suggest you purchase this unit from this vendor, it’s just the first one I googled for illustration purposes).

Kathy,

Comments are not a place to post about your problems. Please consider using the actual forums to get widespread help.

Comments are not a place to post about your problems. Please consider using the actual forums to get widespread help.

If you didn’t put it in some kind of drying cycle, chances are there’s corrosion on the board level and it may not work. Give it a try…

Keep in mind, a warm DRY source like a 100 watt light bulb or even a hair dryer used to dry the board in intervals can shorten that time.

LCD and your digitizer are two different things… most of the time, the digitizer is glued to the LCD but if you have no touch response, it is to do with your digitizer and not your LCD.

Get a new phone or get it to a non-authorized repair shop that can do circuit board repairs. You’ve clearly not listened to removed the power supply BEFORE putting it into the rice…. water takes time to evaporate even in rice so it would take more than 24 hours if you don’t DISASSEMBLE your phone to dry out.