DunCanP

@Auss JB, as per @jayeff , consider your BIOS needs updating but I’m really curious. Are you sure it’s going into “hibernation” mode or “standby” mode and not powering off because: a) your power supply isn’t providing proper power b) your battery isn’t holding a charge. c) your power connector on your laptop isn’t broken down? Have you tried running a live CD linux distribution to see if it does the same thing? Does it power off regardless of being used or not? Does it power off or hibernate? (How do you know) Have you tried to use Windows without the battery plugged in? It is also possible your battery is going bad and the machine shuts down to avoid overcharging the battery. Lastly, it could be your CPU overheating and you need to clean out the fins and/or change the thermal paste on the CPU/heatsink.

One other item. It’s possible you have more than one USB connector and that only this particular “bank” of USB connectors are damaged/destroyed. If you have others that work, you can consider putting a USB Hub to expand your ports if needed as a stop gap measure to repairing your board. Dan, however, is very right that a pop clearly states a blow fuse/cap/IC component. If you aren’t good with a soldering iron or heat gun, this is outside your scope of DIY repair.

Kapton tape should do the trick. If you are in a pinch, regular sticky tape would do but remember that the glue on regular sticky tape isn’t designed for high heat. It may end up drying out later on. The tape is only there so that no part of the heatsink touches the contacts and shorts them. If you are adventurous like me, you can use some nail polish clear enamel to cover but a THIN coat as the CPU still dissipates some heat through itself. https://youtu.be/h8ycmroFQSs

You need to make sure you are using the correct wattage adapter for the MacBook. My 2012 MBP needs the 60W adapter. If you are using an undersized adapter (45W), it won’t provide enough PEAK power to start up the MacBook. Consider leaving the charger connected for a while to see if the battery comes back up because as long as there’s charge in the battery, the MacBook can use both battery and power adapter to start up. Remember the PEAK power is used when first starting the MacBook as everything turns on and updates the system that it’s working.

Looks like there could possibly be a short in the LVDS: https://youtu.be/KjIQXwitWCI Try it and see if it works and update if it does. Try to disconnect the LVDS connector and see I it boots to external monitor first. Good luck

Assuming you are logged in with your google account, log in to https://www.google.com/android/find and select your device. It should show you the IMEI when clicking the “i” option next to your device. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMH...-NHZp5QJQ?key=MjFGV2VYQ2ZiSGdjeGFBd3RMb01...

If you have used non-Apple cables, you may have damaged the charging portion of your board. Even if the battery is bad, the iPad should power on with the cable connected which leads me to think it’s either your cable (that’s gone bad), the port is damaged some how (you need to look at the pins), or the charging chip on the board is gone.

I’m assuming you have selected the right input on the TV. Few things, are you sure the graphics card is working? and for that matter, are you sure the G5 is working as well (does it POST?) Let’s go back to basics: Once connected, and powered on, do you hear the fans? There are two versions of DVI. DVI-A and DVI-D (A for Analogue and D for Digital). There is a third version called DVI-I (which is both digital and analogue) but you need the Digital version to be able to connect to a HDMI device (HDMI is pure digital). It’s possible the video cards are in analogue mode as they were previously set but the adapter should give the video card the info as well. As the pin outs on the DVI-A and DVI-D cables are slightly different. More info is needed.

You should call Roomba support for this. Sorry, you’re basically telling us a situation that you are expecting an autopsy on. That’s like telling us someone you know when to dinner with you and then collapsed and died. We cannot decipher the problem from very little info. Did you install “new” batteries? If so, did you buy it from Roomba? How did you change it? Did you call Roomba support before changing the batteries before knowing the problem? How did you determine the battery needed replacement? etc etc…. tons of questions, but you are better off calling their support line.

Have you tried to reboot your iPad by pressing the HOME button and the POWER button for 10 seconds to do a hard reboot?

Comments are not a place to post about your problems. Please consider using the actual forums to get widespread help.

If you didn’t put it in some kind of drying cycle, chances are there’s corrosion on the board level and it may not work. Give it a try…

Keep in mind, a warm DRY source like a 100 watt light bulb or even a hair dryer used to dry the board in intervals can shorten that time.

LCD and your digitizer are two different things… most of the time, the digitizer is glued to the LCD but if you have no touch response, it is to do with your digitizer and not your LCD.

Get a new phone or get it to a non-authorized repair shop that can do circuit board repairs. You’ve clearly not listened to removed the power supply BEFORE putting it into the rice…. water takes time to evaporate even in rice so it would take more than 24 hours if you don’t DISASSEMBLE your phone to dry out.