This tutorial is labeled “motor replacement”, not “carbon brush replacement”. It’s obviously intended to show how to remove the motor assembly as a whole, & doesn’t go into details on specific components of the assembly. I notice all of the repair pages for this model seem to be by a single person. Do you really expect one person to think of everything that could go wrong with a blender & make a separate guide for every single possible breakage? Repair tutorials here generally presume that the reader has common sense & basic intelligence & will be able to use the guide in a general manner, even if their specific problem is not shown.
The fact that you can look at your motor assembly & diagnose the problem as a broken spring suggests you also have enough knowledge to repair that problem without a specific guide. Other people may have an irreparable motor & may need to replace the whole assembly.
I’m just glad there’s guides showing the inside of the blender; I can do my own diagnosing once I get it opened up.
This is a plug replacement, not a jack replacement. The “jack” is the “female” connector in your device. The “male” connector is a “plug”. Seriously get your basic terminology straight, even the part list calls for a “plug”. I have been looking for a jack replacement how to, but every result I get is for plug replacements calling the plugs jacks. Jack & plug are not interchangeable terms.
When the writer says “hold the silver fan still” they obviously meant the blade, but why they’re calling it a “fan” is beyond me, maybe they’re not native english speaking & didn’t realize the error? Or maybe they’re trying to “dumb it down” for noobs?
For the twist direction however, it would seem the Ninja company uses a left-hand thread. Magic-Bullet blenders also use this threading on the gears. Look at the direction the motor/gear turns, if they used a regular right-hand thread, the gear would unscrew during normal use. By using a left-hand thread, the gear turns in the tightening direction during use.
Why don’t the blender-makers just have the motor turn the other way & use a standard right-hand thread for these gears?
Because it would be too easy for users to figure out how to remove & replace only the gears, instead of buying a $25 or $35 replacement blade assembly, or for the same price buying a whole new blender set. Seriously. WTF Ninja?
Ninja blender motto: “F**k mother nature, we want money!”
Why shouldn't we disconnect the tumblers?
If there's an important reason to leave the tumblers attached for this repair, please explain it.
Do they actually need to stay on for this particular repair to work correctly? Or do you just feel that disconnecting them is an unnecessary extra step?
I've taken my controller apart before to replace the joysticks & paint the case.
I unplugged & replugged the tumblers with no problems. In fact, I found disconnecting them made the pcb much easier to handle without them attached & flopping around.
Plus it protects the wires from getting broken from unnecessary twisting & flopping while handling the pcb.
I have even seen controllers that the owner removed the tumblers entirely (to lighten the weight of the controller) & the controller was perfectly functional (sans vibration effect) without them.
So please explain why you’re saying “don't disconnect” them.
It doesn't really matter which set of bits you by or what brand makes them, Torx bits (and the security versions of them) are generic & come in standardized sizes. You do not need a special "xbox" tool kit, you just need a size 8 torx security bit, no matter what brand makes the bit/kit. Those types of "specialty kits" are usually just collections of generic bits that you can buy at a hardware store in a regular bit set. The difference is that a general bit set will have bits for screws that a specific item doesn't have in it, whereas a specialty kit will only include bits for the types & sizes of fasteners used in the specified item.
BTW, with the smaller sizes of torx security bits you can try breaking off the little post in the middle with needlenose pliers or something else that can fit in the there. Even if the post doesn't break off cleanly, it's usually short enough to fit a regular (non security) torx bit in the slot.
In my experience with my controller, the logic board lifts out very easily, there are no tabs or fasteners holding it in.
So, if you're having difficulty taking the logic board out, call a friend with average hand dexterity & motor skills to do it for you.