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はじめに

First of all, I must apologize for my incorrectly written English. My native language is Dutch.

So I hope that you have some fun with this guide!!

Don"t hesitate to contact me if you have questions about this "repair / teardown" guide.

この分解は修理ガイドでは ありません。 お持ちのPhilips Pressurised Steam Generator GC8220を修理する際は、iFixitの修理ガイドをご利用ください。

  1. first remove the first screw of the side panel.
    • first remove the first screw of the side panel.

  2. note : keep a plan of the screws. or a magnetic platform. now remove the upper screw in the white plastic plate.
    • note : keep a plan of the screws. or a magnetic platform.

    • now remove the upper screw in the white plastic plate.

  3. remove the 2 srews and the metal plate.
    • remove the 2 srews and the metal plate.

    • remind where all the cables run to.

  4. remove the srews from the lower panel.
    • remove the srews from the lower panel.

  5. now remove the upper blue plastic from the iron itself. click the wires loose. ( you can click it loose at the metal part of the wire,there is a little metal clip you have to push and then pull the wire out.)
    • now remove the upper blue plastic from the iron itself.

    • click the wires loose. ( you can click it loose at the metal part of the wire,there is a little metal clip you have to push and then pull the wire out.)

    • if you put it togheter again , notice that the steam button is in his place.

    • note: again, see where the wires run at.

  6. remove the screw at the pointed side of the iron.
    • remove the screw at the pointed side of the iron.

  7. remove the bottom plate screws.
    • remove the bottom plate screws.

  8. remove the blue bottom plate and the cables
    • remove the blue bottom plate and the cables

  9. remove al the wires from the sockets. remove the white and blue plastic case around the iron.
    • remove al the wires from the sockets.

    • remove the white and blue plastic case around the iron.

    • remove the red dot (rubber)

    • and remove the 2 black dot rubbers.

  10. remove the rubber wire (red/orange color) and the metal pin arround it.
    • remove the rubber wire (red/orange color) and the metal pin arround it.

    • tip : if you heat it up , it come loose easy

    • tip : If the iron bottom plate is full of calc , you can put it in a bucket full of hot water with a lot of vinegar. (and i mean a lot!)

  11. Now we start with the biggest part of the iron. the boiler and the water reservoir unit. remove the 3 torx srews at the iron plate. they are under the rubber footclips.
    • Now we start with the biggest part of the iron. the boiler and the water reservoir unit.

    • remove the 3 torx srews at the iron plate. they are under the rubber footclips.

  12. after removing the metal plate, you see two tubes. remove the plastic holder with the two tubes. remove the plastic from the tubes.
    • after removing the metal plate, you see two tubes.

    • remove the plastic holder with the two tubes.

    • remove the plastic from the tubes.

    • tip : remind where the black tube is put in and where the red tube is in.

  13. remove the torx screws inside the plastic holes, you'll need a longer torx screwdriver.
    • remove the torx screws inside the plastic holes, you'll need a longer torx screwdriver.

    • remove the other two torx screws in front of the machine ,where the waterreservoir normaly is. (i don't have a picture of this.) but the screws are visible

  14. remove the body of the machine and you'll see the boiler and the electronics, pump... remove the body of the machine and you'll see the boiler and the electronics, pump...
    • remove the body of the machine and you'll see the boiler and the electronics, pump...

  15. remove the screws of the control panel. pull the control panel out.
    • remove the screws of the control panel.

    • pull the control panel out.

    • remove the connectors from the board.

  16. remove head electrical wire ( power )
    • remove head electrical wire ( power )

    • reminder : keep a plan from where to where to wires go. I made a electrical plan only for the boards, so i knew where to plug the wires in again.

  17. remove second board ( pull), be carefull and attentively. here are a lot of wires. ,again keep in mind where the wires go. tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board. tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board.
    • remove second board ( pull), be carefull and attentively. here are a lot of wires. ,again keep in mind where the wires go.

    • tip: the colors of the wires are also on the board.

  18. remove white plastic safety valve. (pull)
    • remove white plastic safety valve. (pull)

  19. remove the thick grey and white kabel, that runs from the boiler unit to the iron by removing the two torx screws and the metal plate.
    • remove the thick grey and white kabel, that runs from the boiler unit to the iron by removing the two torx screws and the metal plate.

  20. now we will remove the pump. remove the small and the thicker wire. remaind witch one goes where. note : if the pump in your iron is broke you should remove the  tubes and wires. ( see third picture) I did'nt do it cause i only opened mine for removing calc from boiler and iron.
    • now we will remove the pump.

    • remove the small and the thicker wire. remaind witch one goes where.

    • note : if the pump in your iron is broke you should remove the tubes and wires. ( see third picture) I did'nt do it cause i only opened mine for removing calc from boiler and iron.

  21. now we will remove the rest of the wires and cables.
    • now we will remove the rest of the wires and cables.

    • and at the same time we will remove the blue part ( steam valve.) Use a wrench.

    • tip : be carefull for the black tube.

  22. now , the last part : the boilerunit.( the most expensive part of the hole machine too!! Here in Belgium you will pay arround 115 USD$ ( 83 euro) be carefull with the last wires. some of them ( and also the thick black tube) are realy hard to remove.
    • now , the last part : the boilerunit.( the most expensive part of the hole machine too!! Here in Belgium you will pay arround 115 USD$ ( 83 euro)

    • be carefull with the last wires. some of them ( and also the thick black tube) are realy hard to remove.

    • tip: to uncalc the boiler, fill it up to 1/3 with realy hot water and the rest with vinegar. let it rest for an hour or 4.

    • tip 2 : if you unclac the boiler , be carefull with some wires, you can't remove them all if you only going to uncalc the machine.

Kevin D

メンバー登録日: 2014年05月02日

6,268 ポイント

21のガイドは作成済み

36 件のコメント

Thanks for all your effort in doing this. I found it helpful !

Colin - 返信

Thanks a lot for this, I used it as a guide to replace the soleplate and hose lead - I think I would have struggled without this very handy and well written document.

Proost!

Sean

Sean O'Neil - 返信

no problem guys, thnaks for liking this :).

kind regards,

kevin

Kevin D - 返信

Thanks for these instructions and clear pictures. Very helpful and excellent English.

trevorboardman - 返信

A lot of Philips GC83xx boiler steam iron devices seem to have 'switch off' issues after about 2 years of usage. If you notice that the light around the on/off button is fading, especially when pushing the steam button, your problem might be caused by the capacitors in the power supply. Verify this by checking the power voltage (blue wire on the power board connector): it should be 24Volt dc. If this is significantly less, try replacing the big capacitor on the power board. But be carefull: the whole board carries 240Vac, and the capacitor should only be replaced by a certified safety capacitor (X2 type) with the same operating voltage and capacity.

Paul Turelinckx - 返信

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