はじめに
The Logitech Mouse, model 205, isn't as clear to take apart as later models. But once the steps are known, a teardown for this device is straightforward and requires only common tools. This guide will instruct the reader on how to take apart this particular model.
必要な工具と部品
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To remove the battery, turn the mouse over onto its back and press the square button bellow the battery icon.
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Pressing this button should release the cover on the top of the mouse, allowing you to remove the battery.
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Flip the mouse over onto its back.
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Using a metal spudger, scrape off the padding on the bottom two pads as shown.
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This will reveal a two holes, with a screw in each.
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Using a phillips head screwdriver (J000 in ifixit toolkit), unscrew the screws holding the base in place.
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Lift up the back side of the mouse, then gently slide the front towards the back.
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After sliding, then the mouse will open as shown.
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Using a phillps head screwdriver (head J000 in the ifixit toolkit), unscrew the circuit board from the mouse frame.
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Using the tweezers, gently pull the circuit board from the mouse. Hold the circuit board by the metal frame that surrounds it, as shown.
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6 件のコメント
I don’t quite understand the point of this. The mice fail occasionally but are inexpensive (~$15). It would be nice to be able to repair them but merely disassembling them doesn’t serve any purpose as far as I can see.
Imagine you want to thoroughly clean your mouse without damaging the electronic components, for example.
Daniele -
I would like to be able to open my mouse to see why it's not working all the time and I suspect it's because some kind of liquid or goo got in there. Maybe I can clean it.
mamie page - 返信
If you can open it, you can explore the problem, look for a fix - but these days it's very likely you will break the plastics in trying to open it. THAT is the value of this page, it reduces the risk of broken plastic tabs etc. because someone has already "been there". I've just rescued my (otherwise perfectly good) M180 by cleaning out the gunk that had collected inside the wheel - which was interrupting the optics that count wheel rotation. I didn't need a guide for that part...
