Remove 4 PH00 screws

Use something hard to push in at the points shown, this will release the clips on the bottom of the controller. This will allow you to open the bottom of the case.

Carefully open up the shell, take care, there are a two further clips as the top of the controller that will pop open with reasonable ease. be cautious of the ribbon cable connection that connects the top of the case to the lower half.

Undo the interface connecting the ribbon cable to the mainboard.

Remove the top light bar

Remove the light carrying plastic.

Remove the light triangle.

Unscrew the PH00 screw to Release USB Chip

This Generation 4 Controller uses a JDS-040. This board is authentic due to its colors and markings.

The battery is secured onto the Battery Bracket with a small amount of adhesive. Lack of adhesive is a red flag that this controller has been previously worked on by a third party.

The battery uses a friction fit interface with two pins. Use tweezers to remove.

Check the battery for authenticity. A real battery is needed. There are some repairs that replace the rectangular gray battery with a plastic battery that looks like it can be cut. Fake batteries are questionable in quality and detrimental to the controller.

The battery brace is held by friction by pegs on either side of the brace. Use tweezers to remove the brace

Detatch touch pad at its interface. Be careful.

This Gen 4 controller features a mainboard with a PH00 screw towards the right side. Please remove the screw.

That’s all. Lift the Midframe right up on out of there. Always have the mainboard facing up. The Midframe May face down after the rumble motors are desoldered.

Lift the bottom of the touchpad towards you, as it is hinged near the top. Lift it away after undoing the hinge.

There are panels on either side of the touchpad. It isn’t glued, nor is it a friction fit. One side is disassembled and shown in blue. Use tweezers.

The pad membranes are friction fitted. Once they come off, the buttons can go everywhere, they’ll come out into your hand.

Back to the Midframe. Lift away the mainboard. Mind the motor wires. They are fragile. This step to isolate the board is needed so desoldering heat doesn’t ruin the plastic Midframe.

Desolder the red and black wires at the Mainboard, noting their respective locations.

Pull the bumpers right off. Be careful, you’ll hear a click.

Here’s the panel work to undo.

it should come right off.

The spring should come out with the tweezers.

This pad should slide right out. Use the tweezers.

There’s a piece of Mylar with a circuit on it to detect the buttons. Use the tweezers as shown.

Use tweezers to remove speaker dust mesh. It is fixed on there with light adhesive.

The speaker itself is also fixed with light adhesive. Flip the Midframe over to remove it with the tweezers.

The thumb sticks pull straight off the rockers. Go ahead and do that.