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アイテムコード: IF145-123-2
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概要
修理にまつわるストーリー
Cracked front panel assembly
The repair is pretty straight forward until the conclusion which states, 'But first ensure to place a narrow piece of tape over the copper/silver at the bottom of the digitizer to the left and right of the home button.'
Since there was no tape in those areas when I took the iPad apart it led to serious confusion before I put it back together. And with so many people writing that their screens weren't working correctly I came to a work stoppage at this point not wanting to put the iPad back together incorrectly.
I watched several YouTube videos and not a single one mentioned or showed putting tape over the bottom silver parts of the digitizer. My advice is to take a look at the photo I've attached to this write-up.
With the iPad opened up and looking at the digitizer you see a metallic pad to the right of the home button. Make sure that pad is in place before you put the iPad back together. You may have dislodged it when sliding the picks around this area. You can see a corresponding area on the front panel assembly where this pad is supposed to make contact when closed.
On the front panel assembly you see a small rubber pad. Since the new assembly does not come with this pad, remove it and attach it to the new front panel assembly.
Where I have the blue arrow there are some small electrical components on a ribbon cable. I do not remember if there was a piece of tape over this area or not. Refer to your disassembly and if there was tape there, put it back.
Finally, if patience isn't part of your vocabulary then take a pass on this DIY. Going fast will lead to further damage beyond the cracked screen. Skip the iOpener and carefully use a heat gun. My screen came off in one piece rather than in shards due to patience and the heat gun.
It's been almost two weeks now and I do not have any issues with the iPad screen going whack all on its own and touching icons and opening apps as if it's possessed. I attribute that to ensuring those two pads at the bottom of the digitizer/screen were put back in place before closing it up. I did not put any tape over the copper/silver area at the bottom of the digitizer because there was no tape there when I took the iPad apart and it was not clear to me where exactly I would put this tape.
Good luck!
Cracked front panel assembly
The repair is pretty straight forward until the conclusion which states, 'But first ensure to place a narrow piece of tape over the copper/silver at the bottom of the digitizer to the left and right of the home button.'
Since there was no tape in those areas when I took . . .
Old battery couldn't hold a charge for long.
Your tools made getting into the case easy. The only problem was getting the old battery out... Too much original glue!
The supplied tools made the job much easier.
Don't try to open the case with your fingernails!
Spider web screen
Repair went very well instructions were plain enough was a little nervous of crushing a connector after the first one was in it was smooth sailing about an hour to do
Go slow take your time and follow instrutions
Accidentally dropped my phone right on the back.
With a heat gun on low the glue softened up very easily. Needed something sharper and thinner to get under the glass but once I did it peeled off easily. Removed all the old glue with a knife to hopefully retail some water resistance.
Use the heatgun until your phone is uncomfortably hot around the edges. Then use something sturdy and thin to get under the glass or the suction cup if you can, once you have enough space stick an opening pick in the space and go around the edge and be careful because there tends to be more glue further in the device.
Accidentally dropped my phone right on the back.
With a heat gun on low the glue softened up very easily. Needed something sharper and thinner to get under the glass but once I did it peeled off easily. Removed all the old glue with a knife to hopefully retail some water resistance.
Use the heatgun . . .
Screen was badly cracked after bing dropped on corner of iPad.
Repair went smoothly. No major issues but needed another tool to make it really work.
Need to stay patient as it's tedious work getting the screen off. After that it's pretty easy. The plastic tool to pry open the screen from the edge isn't great. It should have a metal edge really. It gets bent and worn down. I used an exacto knife which did the trick. Also, a video of the tear down would be much more helpful. I found a video online which walked through the process. It's the same as the photos here but seeing it in action really helps.
Screen was badly cracked after bing dropped on corner of iPad.
Repair went smoothly. No major issues but needed another tool to make it really work.
Need to stay patient as it's tedious work getting the screen off. After that it's pretty easy. The plastic tool to pry open the screen from the edge isn' . . .
My wife's phone. She cracked her LCD screen
The "Ifixit" video manual was to the point and quite accurate except a couple of things. On this particular phone the original adhesive refused to let go after heating the chassis several times. The iSclack was not strong enough to lift the rear cover loose and i ended up using a razors edge. However I couldn't prevent the rear cover to crack on one corner. The second obstacle was also related to the original glue. The battery also wouldn't let go and I had to use the same razorblade again. I found the whole process relative easy and the only thing giving me real headache was the original adhesive/glue! Due to being a newbie and doing this for the first time I really didn't know what to expect and I forgot to order the replacement adhesive for the new screen. However I got that from a local repair shop who helped me out despite they do not normally deal with phones.
The instruction video says/shows litte about how long and exactly how the heat gun should be used. When I got the phone opened I saw that the adhesive is strictly around the surface edges, so that's where the focus should be pointed. It probably should be heated to the point where you almost can not touch it anymore with your fingertips. And hurry with the iSclack! When you order a new screen, do not forget new front/rear adhesive!
My wife's phone. She cracked her LCD screen
The "Ifixit" video manual was to the point and quite accurate except a couple of things. On this particular phone the original adhesive refused to let go after heating the chassis several times. The iSclack was not strong enough to lift the rear cover loos . . .
My power switch was stuck. I bought a spare part off eBay.
You guys rated the fixability a "1" and I completely agree. What a pain. I was able to get the switch replaced and the unit works except that when I was using the picks I pushed one in too far and it broke the digitizer membrane on the top-left of the screen. As a result the unit is fully functional, except that on the left 1/3 of the screen the touch doesn't work. Good news is now that I know how to dismantle it, I can replace the screen easily enough (relatively).
There is glue holding the power switch/camera assembly to the back cover. This was a surprise as I thought it was just held by the myriad of screws. Some prying and it came loose easily and that adhesive didn't require the heat gun.
My power switch was stuck. I bought a spare part off eBay.
You guys rated the fixability a "1" and I completely agree. What a pain. I was able to get the switch replaced and the unit works except that when I was using the picks I pushed one in too far and it broke the digitizer membrane on the top-le . . .
Cracked Screen
Great!
Becareful where you order your screens. I had to do this twice!!
Kindle would not charge unless you did the wire dance ( moved it all over) until you find the spot that if you're lucky will charge after you sit it down . Got to the point that I had to do it without moving the Kindle.
Very well, you just have to pay attention to details.
Have a clean surface and all the parts you need before you do this and watch the video a few times to make sure you have it down.
Kindle would not charge unless you did the wire dance ( moved it all over) until you find the spot that if you're lucky will charge after you sit it down . Got to the point that I had to do it without moving the Kindle.
Very well, you just have to pay attention to details.
Have a clean surface and all . . .
iPad 4th Gen WiFi with a broken front glass.
The instructions were great except that for some reason, they assumed that I would be replacing an intact glass panel. Mine was broken in 4 lines, and every time I got to another break, it would shatter down to powdered glass and glue (Yes I know it is 3M tape).
My time estimate was off by a significant factor.
It will probably take me another hour to finish cleaning the surfaces before I can reassemble.
Don't try to replace the glass unless you have a lot of time and a clean work surface.
iPad 4th Gen WiFi with a broken front glass.
The instructions were great except that for some reason, they assumed that I would be replacing an intact glass panel. Mine was broken in 4 lines, and every time I got to another break, it would shatter down to powdered glass and glue (Yes I know it is 3M . . .
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