はじめに
Replace a broken display with this guide.
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The picture at left (front panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame. In the next few steps, try to pry the front panel up from the gaps between these clips.
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Gently insert a plastic opening tool, near the volume control buttons, between the plastic surround of the screen and the metal case.
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Rotate the tool away from the Touch to pry up on the glass panel.
If you are planning on reusing the front bezel / seal around the glass screen, be careful not to rip it up too much when loosening the screen.
If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod
mikeseptak - 返信
Quote from mikeseptak:
If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod
sometimes if you buy a new front it doesn't come with the front bezel, so make sure it does before you rip the old one up. otherwise you can get a new front bezel from ebay.
Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...
jgreengold - 返信
And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...
jgreengold - 返信
Quote from jgreengold:
Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...
I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts?
When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.
Quote from barlowdo:
I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts? When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.
jgreengold - 返信
Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry
"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage
the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted
a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon
removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I
too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is
very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off
clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased
a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key
here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool
as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends
to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or
breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes
be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire
assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to
understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically
after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to
separate from the bezel...
jgreengold - 返信
I tried a flathead screwdriver and cracked the front panel.I learned that prying with a flathead screwdriver will damage it.
Quote from jgreengold:
Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry
"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage
the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted
a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon
removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I
too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is
very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off
clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased
a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key
here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool
as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends
to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or
breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes
be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire
assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to
understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically
after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to
separate from the bezel...
Last night I recalled I use to own a metal pic it was a thumb pic for slide guitar. Anyway I decided to use my metal tools I bought from this site which are more rounded edges than the flat bladed screw driver that comes with kits. I made more progress with the metal tools and got what I think is all sides mostly up accept for the home button side which is really fighting me. I can easily tell where a clip is by sliding the tool alongside until I bump up against the side of a clip but I find it very difficult to push straight down to catch the top of the clip which it would seem would push away from the bezel. I am just not sure why this is difficult to do. I have a broken 2nd gen which I use as reference and it looks like the clip would easily push away. At any rate I am in the same predicament as you. I got the 2nd gen together only to find the home button sticks and wifi range is not what it use to be. So I am attempting to take the iPod apart a 2nd time to fix these issues without breaking the touch screen and lcd and so am taking my time. I just don't want to have to replace these brand new parts and have more money in this 8 gig 2nd gen than if I had just bought a brand new one.
Quote from jgreengold:
And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...
Hi jgreengold, Can you help me to check if your iPod touch is like mine on this picture?: http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg
My iPod touch bottom glass is a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the right part. Please check it and many thanks for your reply!!
best I can see my touch glass is level with the frame - whether this picture is pre or post glass replacement, you need to gently, slowly, firmly, press down to try to seat the glass better in the frame/clip. I've see cases where after removint a glass top, the removal of the bexel is not perfect and it may leavel some of the black plastic bexel in the clip which makes it impossible to then copmpletely seat the new top glass/bezel.
jgreengold - 返信
isn't this instruction misleading? :
"Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the headphone jack."
i agree with mgardner: "Be sure to pry between the outer case and the rubber gasket and not between the gasket and the glass"
I changed the text to reflect this. It's currently the "unverified" version.
no way -
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Insert the plastic opening tool between the front panel and its plastic surround and pry up at several points along the left edge of the Touch.
Careful not to use a (metal) spudger too hard, or it's really easy to bust the LCD screen with the pressure.
Quote from Tom:
If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".
That's the way I did it!
James Bond - 返信
I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.
I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.
Has anyone got anymore suggestions?
Quote from barlowdo:
I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.
Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.
I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.
Has anyone got anymore suggestions?
Quote from barlowdo:
Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.
The metal clips from Step1 (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame are not right at the side of the display glas (under the black rubber) but a little more to the middle!
I thought I opened the metal clips - but what I really did was broke the plastic frame! Now my plastic frame is only on the top and bottom but it still fixes the front panel...
James Bond - 返信
agreed - or a metal quitar pick or ay other metal object. It is relatively easy to insert such an instrument and get under the bezel placing direct pressure on the LCD screed... Slow, shallow, and easy... lifting vertically
jgreengold - 返信
Quote from barlowdo:
I finally got mine apart. The lower left metal clip was the absolute worst to get loose. Of course none of them were easy or obvious when they would let go freeing up the Bezel. It looks like I can reuse the complete touch screen and home button assembly and the rubber o ring is only slightly blemished around the lower left clip. I had to use the included repair kit flat bladed screw driver to loosen the last clip. All the other clips I was able to remove by using the metal tools sold thru this site. I did not want to use the flat bladed screw driver as it can damage the o ring but the other tools would just not catch the clip enough to lift it away from the bezel and then allowing the bezel to pop up.
So a question, "Why was my Home Button Jamming?" it is a self contained unit. Once out of the pod and in fact even after freeing up most of the bezel it works fine.What could it have been catching on when it is completely assembled? Is there side word pressure or torsional pressure introduced by the bezel snap clips and metal outside frame ?
Thanks to anyone with any suggestions about why the home button sticks in the unit but not when it is out of the unit.
I had to take mine apart again due to Home Button issues. The touch screen had come loose from the plastic bezel causing the home button to work incorrectly. In the process of trying to clean up old glue I broke the ribbon cable on the brand new only been used for a coupe of months touch screen. I ended up taking the screen all the way off and was left with popping out the plastic bezel without breaking it. I thought it would be difficult but with the touch screen already out of the way I got the plastic bezel off in under 20 minutes.
barlowdo -
The new screen i got its home button does not click idk if its just mine but it messes with me because your used to hearing a click when it registers
mikeseptak - 返信
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Continue prying up the left edge until the top and bottom edges start to lift out of the Touch.
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Once the top and bottom edges have lifted slightly out of the Touch, use the opening tool to assure the plastic surround is detached from the clips along the inside of the Touch.
Step 2
*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...
First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.
But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?
James Bond - 返信
Quote from James Bond:
Step 2
*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...
First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.
But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?
I checked again and the pics from Step 4+ are correct.
But I would advice the following way:
Quote from Tom:
If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".
James Bond - 返信
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Continue the prying procedure, now focusing on detaching the plastic surround from the internal metal clips.
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Pry along the top edge of the Touch to further separate the front panel from the rest of the device.
OK I've repaired many of these now and I think I've found the trick. The trick is to start near the volume buttons and get one or two of the clips released. Then I work my way down the unit, across the bottom, up the side. The top then pretty much comes on it's own. The trick for each clip is, once I can apply upward prying pressure on the plastic frame, I get the spudger between the clip and the frame and the frame will come out of the clip. It's almost never a dramatic pop, it just slides up. I keep a dead, open one on my desk as a reference as to exactly where the clips are.
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Pry up the front panel along the right edge using the method described in previous steps.
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Eventually work around the entire perimeter of the front panel until it is lifted slightly from the rear panel.
This image shows at best an aspirational use for this tool. I have used so many of these and they are mostly useless except for prying up the connectors. As soon as you get about 1mm into the case it shreds and loses the edge, or breaks right below the reinforcing part. Tell me I’m wrong.
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Lift the front panel out of the rear case minding the cable still attaching it near the upper left corner of the Touch.
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Use the flat end of a spudger (or an opening tool) to pry the touch screen cable connector up off the upper logic board.
As with the iPhone, the number one reason for removing the digitizer is if it’s smashed. Removing the broken glass from the mid-frame is a delicate procedure and can be very tedious and time consuming. The rubber gasket and home button can be easily damaged if you are overzealous with a heat gun. The mid-frame section is now readily available as an orderable spare part (about £5!) and in my opinion you’ll get a much neater, cleaner repair if you replace this part too. There is however no need to purchase a new home button and switch as this can be easily removed from the old mid-frame and applied to the new one, you will need a hot iron to melt the plastic rivets that hold it in place though.
So what is the orientation for the putting the home button back in. The button has two tabs. Do the tabs face vertical or horizontal? What keeps the button from rotating? Do the tabs fit into slots?
barlowdo -
My iPod touch has the glass screen cover a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the bottom right, as you can see in this:
http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg
Is this normal?
Crazy simple! Wow! Now I pretty much have a new iPod. Thanks iFixit!
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Insert a small iPod opening tool with the edge angled up toward the underside of the display between the white plastic backlight and the metal shield beneath it.
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Pry up along the lower edge of the display enough to grab it with your fingers.
Be careful not to put too much pressure on the LCD screen here or it will "bleed" or crack.
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Lift the display up from its lower edge and rotate it toward the top of the Touch.
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While holding the display with one hand, run an iPod opening tool down the two long edges of the mylar reflector attached to the metal display tray.
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When it is sufficiently free from the display tray, remove the mylar reflector from the Touch.
Step 11. Upon dissection of my iPod touch I note that the mylar reflector is attached firmly to the back of the LCD panel and NOT to the tray as pictured. I assume that the new LCD panel that I ordered from ifixit includes this mylar reflector pre attached to the back of the LCD?
jgreengold - 返信
I have a similar question about the Mylar
1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?
2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.
Quote from barlowdo:
I have a similar question about the Mylar
1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?
2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.
I'm fairly confident that the mylar is there for viewing the display in direct sunlight and for reflecting the backlight/incoming sunlight back out through the LCD. If you hold the display assembly (without mylar) in front of a very intense light source, you'll notice it is a bit transparent and that light transmits through both the LCD and the backlight. Now, if you check out the metal tray that the LCD sits in, you'll notice that it is not a uniform flat surface due to many voids for screw holes, etc. If you were to view the display in direct sunlight without the mylar in place, you'd probably see all the voids in the metal display tray as unwanted "shadows" in your display. I'd install the mylar with the shiny side facing toward the outer glass, as oriented in our repair guide.
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Remove the seven Phillips screws securing the metal display tray to the rear panel.
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Lay the display back down into its tray.
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Remove the final Phillips screw securing the metal tray to the rear panel.
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Lift the display out of the metal tray and rotate it toward the top edge of the Touch.
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Use an iPod opening tool to lift the metal display tray and rotate it up toward the top edge of the Touch.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the copper tape off the top edge of the display.
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Use an iPod opening tool to pry the display cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Lift the metal display tray slightly (the battery is attached to its underside) and remove the display from the Touch, minding its delicate cable that may get caught.
Works as advertised - I did it!... Replaced LCD and Glass Digitizer in about 45 min (took my time)... Steps are perfectly described - just a reminder to all - remember to take off all protective films used in shipping on both sides of the LCD and both sides of the glass digitizer during installation. You do not want to have to remove the top again (that was a $69.00) mistake on my part...
jgreengold - 返信
What indication did you have that the plastic protectors were still on the new screens? Did parts fit too tightly? Was the screen Dim?
Just curious as this may be some issues others are experiencing.
barlowdo -
During re-assembly, make sure the new battery is positioned low on the back of the metal tray so it does not sit on the edge of the circut board. I dident realize i had done this until I applied a little pressure while seating the LCD screen and I cracked it. Now I get to replace the LCD.
So during re-assembly I transferred the logic board into a second case to avoid the headaches that stripped screws can cause but now every LCD I plug into the unit shows only a white screen and nothing else. I don't remember damaging anything, but did make the top-left screw (next to the digitizer connector) just a wee-bit too tight without realizing that the plastic spacer behind it had broken off.
Again, I don't see any rips in that part of the cable, but I also don't know anywhere else I could have damaged. Does anyone have an idea of why the LB doesn't want to show an image anymore?
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Somehow it always get left out of these tutorals that the !@#$ thing has ALL parts glued together! There's a thin layer of what looks like silicon sealant/glue between the glass and the metal shell. Then the LCD is glued (also with silicon) to mylar backing and mylar backing is glued to the metal frame. The battery is also glued to that frame. The glue gives if you're persistent but it's very easy to crack the LCD while trying to pry it from the metal frame and I had to literally cut the battery off of the other side of that frame.
Ugh... Apple makes it almost impossible to open without breaking it.
A quick note that worked great for me. Print out the picture that has the locations of the metal connector clips and scale it to actual size. Then place the iTouch on top of the printed picture and it will show you exactly where to insert the opening tool. Use it as a template.
sean - 返信
Did anyone see a rubber seal? It's just a plastic frame that's slightly rubbery. It's not made of two parts as far as I can tell.
no way - 返信