はじめに
ロジックボードアセンブリを交換すると、バッテリーと同じようにフラッシュメモリーも新しくなります。
必要な工具と部品
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ディスプレイリテーナの両端から角度の付いた2本のプラスネジを取り外します。
Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.
Like others have noted, screws are covered in adhesive and difficult to remove. Take extreme care to not strip the heads. I'd suggest using a very small flathead to scrape some of the adhesive off before attempting to remove the screws.
captcarl13 - 返信
The tools list doesn't say you need an iPod opener to, nor does the parts list day you'll need a new click wheel, though this is called ”...click wheel REPLACEMENT”. I don't get the feeling these are very trustworthy instructions, ESPECIALLY after having read other comments. I'd say BEWARE, and look at a variety of resources to get a much more comprehensive picture.
Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod, which means that you must not try to unscrew them vertically. If you do there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus look carefully with a torch to see at what angle you have to unscrew them.
Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod. That means that if you try to unscrew them vertically, there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus, look carefully with a torch to see exactly at what angle you need to unscrew them safelly.
Everything was good up to this point. I could barely see the screws and ended up stripping them. Just gave up at this point and threw the
Ipod on the ground and stomped on it.
I agree with several other contributors here, that a properly sized flat screwdriver *that is not worn* held at the correct angle is a better option than a phillips because the screw head is filled in with adhesive tape. BEWARE: The screws on the top and bottom outer edges are not parallel to the case. They are offset by 25 or 30 degrees, with the tips of the screws pointing out towards the outer edge of the case with respect to where the heads are. Use something to get magnification so you can really see how your screwdriver fits, and whether it’s engaged. An undamaged and properly sized standard screwdriver held in the appropriate orientation will readily remove the top and bottom side screws without stripping and with very little force. Feel for engagement — press the screwdriver in just enough to get past the adhesive. Not much torque or pressure is required — just a good fit. You must have the right tools to do this job successfully, and look under high magnification. Align your screwdriver!
In accordance with another source, I have bought online and used a Phillips #0000 screw driver, which worked pretty well here. It costed me only $2 .
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外装とディスプレイリテーナーの間にiPod用の開口ツールを挿入します。
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このツールを使用して、ディスプレイアセンブリをケースからわずかに引き出します。
My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!
What to do if the upper metal base (which is fixed to the circuit with 2 screws) came off when extracted?
Which side can I anchor to force the display to exit?
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ディスプレイを本体からスライドさせます。表示データケーブルがその移動を制限するまで約1.2cm移動します。
instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm
pedalsandpicksからの引用：
instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm
If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.
The glass panel can be very difficult to get moving requiring a lot of downward force. I have found good old fashioned spit to be very useful here.Just lick both thumbs and rub on fingers until just sticky enough.
This willl move the glass.
Pete Green - 返信
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できるだけディスプレイをケースから引き出した状態で、ガラスパネル下端がわずかに（〜1 mm）飛び出すまで静かに押してください。
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ガラスパネル下端に親指をあてて、上端がケースから飛び出すまでガラスパネルを下方向にスライドさせます。
What is the "rear edge" of the nano? Can this be a bit clearer please? Maybe a video of this step would be a good idea. Then again, since Apple owns this site, I guess that's not gonna happen, is it?
I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.
You could do all these steps and really mess up your nano. Instead of disassembling the iPod, carefully remove the remnants of the old glass which I assumed you have cracked. With the new glass in hand CAREFULLY sand one edge of the glass evenly. I used my fine grinder on my dremel tool. After assuring a snug fit I removed the adhesive and installed the glass. Looks great and functional and I didn't ruin my iPod in the process. And when I said sand one edge I mean one of the edges that has a "lip" on it. The other lip you can slide right in and push gently down for a nice fit. Do not remove the adhesive until you are sure of a good fit. This is a quick fix for those who are too queezy to take apart their device.
Lieber Herbert,
schade, dass dir die Anleitung bisher nicht geholfen hat. Stand heute haben bereits 35 andere Nutzer ihr Gerät damit erfolgreich repariert, deshalb wäre es gut zu wissen, was genau bei dir nicht geklappt hat und wo es hakt?
Unsere Anleitungen werden nach dem Wikipedia-Prinzip geschrieben, das heißt du kannst auch selbst jederzeit noch zusätzliche Punkte hinzufügen oder Änderungen vornehmen, die besser beschreiben, was hilft, damit für diejenigen, die nach dir diese Reparatur versuchen, eine noch umfassendere Dokumentation zur Verfügung steht.
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iPod開口ツールの先端を使って、ディスプレイ上端に留められた接着剤からホールドスイッチを剥がします。
Be extremely careful while doing anything around the screen. The slightest bit of pressure in the wrong direction and you will be replacing the screen along with the battery. I speak from experience.
I was extremely careful… and, I broke the display! ~ Gah! ~ $18 for a new one on Ebay (half the price if I wanna wait 3-4x as long to purchase from overseas, twice the price if I buy it from this site!) ~ What a bummer! ~ The goal was to fix this for a customer, and instead I created a longer wait & obviously have to pay for the screen I broke. LISTEN TO BRIAN! BE CAREFUL! THE SCREEN _WANTS_ YOU TO BREAK IT! DON’T FALL FOR IT!
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明るい色のソケットを一本の指で押し下げながら、スパッジャーの先端を使って、Nanoの底側に向けて、ZIFケーブルのロックを跳ね上げます。
Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.
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iPod開口ツールを使って、ディスプレイに付けられた薄いメタルプレートからディスプレイデータケーブルを剥がします。
Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.
The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.
Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.
As commenter Brian Campbell wrote on the previous step, it is important to hold down the white cable socket while carefully working the cable loose from the adhesive. Even a small amount of upward force on the display data cable while it is still inside the socket could be enough to tear the socket off the board. Try not to pry up - use a thin, new (undamaged) opening tool to get under the ribbon cable and keep it parallel and as close to the metal plate as possible. It needs to be worked *under* the data cable, not to pry, as the cable just slides straight out the bottom of the white socket.
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ホールドスイッチケーブルが巻き込まれないよう注意しながら、Nanoからディスプレイを引き抜きます。
WATCH THE HOLD SWITCH!! Be *sure* it is disconnected before pulling out the screen! (I've made that mistake too many times :P)
disconnected from what?
I never saw where it was connected to!
Oops!!!…..I managed to break the little ribbon cable going to the hold switch…lots of very “colourful“ words aimed at myself are in my head now.
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下部ベゼルとドックコネクタの間にiPodオープニングツールを差し込みます。
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ここに翻訳を挿入する
Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.
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Nanoの底にあるプラスネジを3本外します。
In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.
Any advice?
If a screw is stripped, you need to somehow get another under the head to apply pressure to unscrew it (while unscrewing it). It’s an unpleasant operation where you have to apply pressure to keep the screwdriver pressed into the head while prying outward so the threads back out. Try not to strip the head, and try not to strip the threads, while helping the threads to catch.
If this happens, you’ll need to replace the screw. It’s not a good idea to reinstall a stripped screw.
우선 하판을 들어내면 나사에 접착제가 있을거에요 핀셋같은걸로 충분히 제거하고나서 나사를 푸시는게좋을듯
jongjun307 - 返信
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iPod開口ツールの先端を使って、ドックコネクタからクリックホイールのリボンケーブルとZIFソケットを剥がします。
No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.
Pay heed to the word “peel”. Don’t pry. Work the tool slowly under the connector, keeping it as close to the board as possible. Don’t pry. The unit I repaired also had a small piece of Kapton tape, the corner of which can be lifted with tweezers.
Looks like I may have broken the little ribbon cable for the click-wheel, so, I might have to call it quits and spend another Au$260.00 on a new iPod Nano.
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iPod用オープニングツールの先端を使って、ヘッドホンジャック側に向けてZIFケーブルのロックを跳ねあげます。
you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(
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ピンセットを使って、ソケットからクリックホイールリボンケーブルをスライドして、取り出します。
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両端のケーブルを引っ張ります！
Mikeからの引用：
You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!
Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD
There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?
Does anyone know of a source of mainboards for this Nano. Preferably in the European Community or China? Every other part seems to be available but this one.
I've even found dud mainboards for sale on the U.S. Ebay site. What on earth would anyone do with a faulty Maiboard?
Pete Green - 返信
TOOLS: I've ben reading a few commments regarding difficulty wth the screws. I was also told the Phillips screwdriver isn't a true Phillips but has an offset leg. Not having seen one I can't comment with any certainty.
However,being an improvisor,I've been doing very well with a couple of watchmakers screwdrivers.The flat blades are about 1mm across and made of hard blued steel. The sharp corners dig into the screw and push any glue out of the way. A phillips won't push though glue. I used to buy these in a small plastic box - usuallly on street markets.
Pete Green - 返信
Well... beware, this part is tricky ! the click-wheel ribbon stuck and get cut when pulling the battery+motherboard out. Too bad :(
Anyway it was "last chance" for my 7-years old blue nano, battery wasn't providing more than 15 minutes autonomy.
Too bad, it was my fist iPod and I liked it much than my new 7th gen'.
Your photos are showing the wrong cable being removed from the zip lock connector and freed, you are not showing that the cable coming from the click wheel is disconnected and freed. Your photo is showing that the cable from the logic board is disconnected and freed. This means that when the logic board is removed, the cable to the click wheel breaks. Your text and warnings are correct, but your photos are misleading. Very bad compared to the rest of the instructions in steps 1 - 16, which are excellent and better than anything else I found. A shame to spoil it with this step. It is not sufficient to warn in the text that “both ends of the cable need to be freed”, you have to add a photo showing the click wheel cable has been disconnected and freed (and what do you mean by both ends of the cable need to be freed - there are TWO cables, one to the logic board, one to the click wheel and you are showing the wrong cable to the logic board as being freed.
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ホールドスイッチとクリックホイールケーブルが巻き込まれないよう注意しながら、アウターケースからロジックボードアセンブリを引き抜きます。
My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.
Instead of pulling it out, I found it easier to use the display hole to push on the top part of the battery straight down toward the bottom of the unit. This gives you far greater control of the battery/mainboard removal operation; you can push it out (down) in tiny increments and confirm no cables are caught as you do it. Pulling can cause a sudden, catastrophic release and if something is caught, it’s destroyed.
Das Problem ist, das sich der alte Akku aufbläht wenn er kaputt geht bzw. sehr alt ist und das Gerät so gut wie nicht zu zerlegen ist. Bei mir ging das Display und das Kabel des HOLD Schiebers kaputt weil alles so dicht gepackt war. Empfehle den Ärger niemanden bzw. vor der Akku Bestellung zu überprüfen, ob sich der Ipod prinzipiell zerlegen lässt.
Ein einziger Mist diese Anleitung es wird nicht hingewiesen dass man den Ipod Weg werfen kann wenn der Akku aufgebläht ist was meistens der Fall ist.
Bei einem aufgeblähten Akku muss man tatsächlich sehr vorsichtig sein. Ob das immer gleich heißen muss, dass man das Gerät wegwerfen muss, wage ich zu bezweifeln, ich würde zunächst einmal schauen, welche anderen Teile eventuell in Mitleidenschaft gezogen worden sind und ob die ebenfalls austauschbar sind. Falls du dich wirklich gezwungen siehst, das Gerät wegwerfen zu müssen, haben wir hier einige relevante Informationen zum Recycling von Elektroschrott zusammengestellt: How to Recycle End-of-Life Electronics.
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、次の説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、次の説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
37 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
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7 件のコメント
Wouldn't it be easier to open the ZIF socket whilst it is still stuck down?
Pete Green - 返信
On step 11 I found that the cable was still stuck down by the bit under the metal case. The opening tool failed to get at this.
I cut the live head off a match and trimmed it to a long chisel edge.
Pine is soft,strong and non conductive.I was able to poke under the metal body and release the remaining adhesive seal.
Pete Green - 返信
Failure. Another broken iPod due to the incompleteness of step 20. I will add a step 21 with description but I will need some nice looking pictures.
Gallomimia - 返信
Mine broke because of accidentally pulling the board out too fast, but it's dead anyways.
TOOLS: I don't see any offset legs in the screws themselves, however either my 00 phillips is bigger than yours, or these screws are actually 000 phillips. In either case, I found that the heads were full of adhesive, and using a tiny flathead driver and a sharp knife I was able to clear it out just enough to get the screws out.
Gallomimia - 返信
Your instructions are excellent up to steps 17-19. Up to that point they are better than any other instructions I found on the internet, but sadly they are spoiled because you are missing a photo in steps 17-19 to show that the cable coming from the click wheel has to be disconnected and freed. Following a lot of user comments on step 19 you have added text and red warnings to warn the user to disconnect the click wheel cable, but your photos show the wrong cable coming from the logic board as being freed. You talk about freeing both ends of the cable, but there are TWO cables, one coming from the logic board (which is not important) and one coming from the click wheel (which has to be freed. A shame on an otherwise excellent set of instructions.
This is my second time trying to open one of these, both times I broke the switch ribbon cable. I know it says its fragile and that’s obvious but it is SERIOUSLY fragile, dont pull on, pry under, touch or even look at this ribbon or it will break. Get the pry tool underneath the whole connector and tilt the tool slightly until the whole thing pops off. Seriously, dont blink too close to that ribbon.
Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.
captcarl13 - 返信
Tool broke before I could get the cover off !!! So I’m done before I even started !!
linda45p - 返信
I have a Apple iPod Nano 4th gen(Green) and I only have 7 tech pieces to the iPod and I may/might have the small philips screws and I am not sure how to fix the iPod nano
Nick Davies - 返信
I also had Problems to remove the bezel. The solution was to start with a very small screw driver from the hole of the switch. There I could lift it a bit and get the plastic tool in between. Than it was easy.
Michal Niewiadomski - 返信
After replacing the battery, the old glue would lump up too thick, and also become too weak to fix the panel back to the outer case. I have scraped all the old glue off using a small flat head screw driver, and affixed a double sided adhesive tape cut into small strips, which was successful in both aspects.
diytradjazz - 返信
TIP: Use a plastic tool and pull it out through the hold switch. This may break the top bezel, but this was the only way to get it off.
Caleb Murphy - 返信