はじめに
バッテリーの持ちが悪いですか？交換しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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プラスチック製オープニングツールをiPodの前面と後面の間の継ぎ目に挿入します。
AWESOME!!!! Couldn't b happier,1 hour and 10 mins to switch out headphone jack (had music through one speaker) and battery since I had it open. Really only had to use plastic spudger,metal spudger and 1.5 inch puddy knife. Plastic separators didn't really help,for 3 bucks I'm not complaining. Already had a 00 screwdriver. All told,$43.00 for parts and I have my 120 gig iPod back.
what jim says. that pic of the clips should be up here so you can visualise what you’re trying to do, before you trash the rails.
duncan rmi - 返信
I agree with Hwyman. I spent quite a bit of time trying to open the case with the plastic opening tools but could never get it into the joint. Then I went tried the iFixit Jimmy tool along with the metal spudger for the rest of the steps. It made is so much easier. I completed the entire job within an hour.
I used a watch back removing tool, it is thinner and made of metal and opening my 5th generation classic iPod was a cinch …. really ….. and I am usually quite clutzy. I inserted it and moved it slightly to the left very gently to separate the back and front and those clips just popped open.
It must have been okay because it all popped back together again after I replaced the battery. No issues with bent seam, back or anything I had read here.
Thank you original poster, these instructions were great.
I also ended up putting a small piece of electrical tape over the Hold switch as I kept bumping it with my fingers. That worked really well but it did leave a residue that I then needed to clean up with isopropyl alcohol afterwards.
What happens if you do it without the hold button switched? Because I just did that.
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パテナイフを2つの開口ツールが挟まっている間の継ぎ目に角度を付けながら、約3mm程度、慎重に挿入します。
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パテナイフがリアパネルの縁から外れたら、パテナイフの垂直を保った状態で、揺らしながら慎重に(かつしっかりと)開口ピックの間の隙間に押し込みます。
The plastic tools are fine for holding the tabs open or for prying open partially open sides, but you're much better off using the metal spudger to open em
I couldn't agree more about the plastic opening tools! The metal spudger worked loads better when it came to actually opening the device. Yes, the metal tool's tip was much sharper than the plastic (and hence, easier to cut your fingers on if your grip slips) but it was substantially more effective in the end. :)
At my local hardware store they offer stiff and flexible putty knives - which kind is better for this purpose?
Don’t do this! The putty knife is too wide and will damage the inside of the case. You can see in the photo for step 19 how the metal clip rail has been bent out of shape. You need to use a narrower tool the will fit between the protrusions on the clip rail (which is where the clips actually are). This video shows a better, albeit more dangerous, method using an x-acto knife. I used the method shown in the video but with a #18 chisel blade on the x-acto knife. With the iPod on its back, I inserted the blade with the beveled side down. Then I pried the side out slightly and peeked through the crack with a flashlight to make sure that the blade was positioned between the protrusions, readjusting as necessary. I used multiple knives to prevent released clips from reengaging. Use this technique at your own risk, and wear adequate hand and eye protection as the blades are very sharp and somewhat brittle.
I used the iFixit Jimmy instead of a putty knife. I also watched the x-acto knife video that Robert Watkins linked to in order to find where the clips are located. I slid the Jimmy into those locations until the tool bottomed out and then move on. I only used the metal spudger (to initially open a gap), the Jimmy (to open the clips), and occasionally a plastic spudger (to hold open gaps while I relocated the metal tools to a new section). Pro tip: Use the Jimmy as a letter opener after you fix your iPod.
I used two small putty knives manufactured by a company called Albion Engineering. They make caulk spatulas in multiple sizes. Took me less than 2 minutes to get the back cover off, with no damage to the sides or clips. And - it was my first time! Highly recommend these, especially if you are in the business.
What size(s) did you use?
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ケースが曲がってしまうのを最小限に抑えるために、パテナイフ後ろのリアパネルを指で押します。 画像のように、パテナイフをゆっくりと曲げて、iPodのメタル製タブの大部分が外れているか確認してください。
I disagree with the “theory” here. You don’t have to bend the case at all. Watch the x-acto blade video on youtube (it’s linked above in the Step 4 comments). The idea is to slide whatever wide flat tool (putty knife, x-acto blade, iFixit Jimmy, etc…) in between the clip and the body. Setting the iPod flat on the table instead of holding it will help and you won’t cut yourself if a tool slips out. As you disengage clips, you will find that the body will start coming out on it’s own without having to flex your wide tool and bending the case in the process.
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ロックスライダーとヘッドフォンジャックの間にある位置で、iPodフロントと背面の間の継ぎ目にプラスチックの開口ツールを挿入します。
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フロントパネルからゆっくりとクリップを外します。
What can i do if unintentionally removed the retaining flap connector from the logic board?
molina6711 - 返信
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ツル首タイプのピンセットまたはオープニングツールを使い、茶色いロックのラッチを1mmまっすぐ持ち上げます。ラッチの両側から引っ張るようにしてください。
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フレックスケーブルを指またはピンセットでつかみ、まっすぐ上に引っ張って外します。
Attention. "Lift the brown lock latch straight up by 1 mm" is wrong IMHO, at least totally misleading!
Wether or not he brown thingy goes "up" depends on the orientation of the iPod, how you are holding it.
Clearer would be "... push brown lock latch away from the back of the iPod" rather "towards you", then "up".
Also the image/illustration wit the red arrows is somewhat misleading in that sense.
Got stuck at this point trying to push it "up" (= towards the top of the iPod), which didn't work, of course...
Luckily no damade done :)このコネクタは上に引き上げることで外れる仕組み。説明にある通り1mmだけです。
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ハードドライブを片手で持ち上げて、その下にあるヘッドフォンジャックのリボンにアクセスします。
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ヘッドホンジャックのリボンを固定しているプラスチックのタブをスパッジャーで裏返します。タブは最大90度まで回転させて、リボンケーブルを外します。
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オレンジ色のヘッドフォンジャックリボンをスライドさせて、コネクタから外します。
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これでリアパネルがiPodから外れました。
I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.
This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.
How do I get that little 90° clip to stay back down with the new ribbon in it
Nar -
How do I get the little clip to stay down holds the year Jack ribbon to the motherboard
Nar -
コネクタは茶色いちっちゃなプラスチックのロックで固定されている。写真でいうと左から右に起こし上げる。
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さて、iPod Classicの内部コンポーネントを解放することによって生じたダメージを修理しましょう！下部ケースのメタル製クリップの少なくとも一つは上向きに曲がっている可能性が高いです。これらのクリップは、リアパネルに再度取り付けるために、全て下向きにしなければなりません。
Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.
Joe Parkes - 返信
Please post a picture of what they are supposed to look like? I think you mean bent outward.
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クリーンで安定した場所で、リアパネルを横にします。慎重にしっかりと押し込んで、側面全体を元の位置に戻します。
My iPod wasn’t closing very well, then I noticed that I didn’t do this. Thanks!
I ended up used a set of squeeze clamps with soft rubber jaws to very carefully apply pressure to either side of the case and top and bottom all around the perimeter in order to square it back up.
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スパッジャーを使って、iPodからバッテリーと付属のオレンジケーブルを持ち上げます。160GB iPodの場合、バッテリーは画像で示されたものよりも厚みがあります。
Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!
I do this and my ipod works now!
All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.
Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results
Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale
Sounds like you're just clumsy...
Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour
My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.
elsprato13 - 返信
I just did the exact same thing. In retrospect, it strikes me that if I would’ve warmed the iPod’s back with a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, this would’ve been a lot easier. Learn from my mistakes people. :-)
My Hold Button Ribbon was glued between the case and the battery too. Should have chanced more heat on the back of the case to totally free it from the battery before prying off the battery.
Ahtishoe -
I have been trying unsuccessfully to get into my ipod to replace the duff battery for a long while. Now, armed with your instructions and the right tools I have done it! (not without considerable frustration with those pesky clips I might add). The plastic spudgers are useless by the way. It took a while to work out how to release the battery ribbon cable and larger picture of the clip action would help. I too found the battery glued to the ribbon cable beneath it. Perseverance, patience and a steady handed are a must for this one. Well done and thank you!
Colin Kaye - 返信
Battery replaced. MB spooled up when I plugged the unit in. Now waiting for it to charge. This process was actually pretty easy with the help of this tutorial. A lot easier than an iPad repair with all the glue. No way could I have done it without the help. So far: every iFixit! repair I have done has been a success. Thanks!
When finish replace battery, need to restore?
No you do not
The instructions were great! I completed the repair with an hour. I can’t ay enough about the parts, tools, and repair guides from iFixIt. I recently replaced my hard drive with an SSD drive on my iMac and the repair guide for that was spot on as well. Thank you, iFixIt!
Any luck fixing the hold button ribbon Greg? Mine ripped too.
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
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82 件のコメント
Bought an extra pair of the blue opening tools ... they both broke trying to open the case. Guess this one was a bit more stubborn. What saved me was the mini-screwdriver on a Leatherman Micro multitool & the iFixIt Metal Spudger.
Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.
This is not possible for ipod 6th gen, I think ifitit may did for 5th gen?
It IS possible and it's really REALLY tough. The plastic tool included in this set is enough to keep seams open where they show in steps 2 and 3 just wide enough for you to put something else in there. But to start them, I used an exacto like blade. When I did this job, I had 3 regular spudgers, the 2 tools provided here, 4 different style green spudgers from somewhere else, 5 large 'guitar picks' sold here to cut the glue holding new iMac screens to the case, the metal spudger, and an exacto type blade.
It was still an incredibly laborious job and although the iPod is back together and works perfectly, one of the seams is bent out a little.
Well, *that* was interesting!
Firstly, as a few have mentioned here, the 6th-generation classics are more tightly-sealed than their immediate forebears, so the otherwise-useful plastic tools included in the battery-replacement kit won't cut it all by themselves; artful (and careful!) application of the metal spudger tool was also required. Thankfully, years of freelance IT work on recalcitrant Macs of all stripes helped prepare me for this bit of improvisation, even though this was the first time I've taken a crack at an iPod (my own 120GB classic - thin version). Happily, other than twisting that one metal clip near the headphone jack - apparently impossible to avoid - and some very minor cosmetic damage, the balance of work went without a hitch. I speculate why Apple makes us go though this, but that's for another thread. Thanks for the kit and tools!
LOL! The reason they make it hard to service is that Apple Authorized repair wants $360.00 US to replace the battery!
I think you will find that the Jimmy tool works better than a spudger and won’t bend the case. It will slide between the case front and the holding flanges and pop them loose. Before you say it, yes I have done this with 6 and 7G. I agree it is a little more challenging than earlier models, but it works equally well.
Don't attempt it, I'm very technologically literate; but I used too much brute force; ruining the case, ionized plastic (as according to battery), and the screen. Pay the extra $ and send it to Apple for professional replacement. You'll thank me later.
Found the Apple spy.
I found a very easy way to get the case off. Slice up a Pepsi can and cut out a couple of squares, 2" long by 1" wide, and round of the corners. Then once you have a spudger in, work a piece of the sheet metal into the opening, sliding it in behind the spudger as you work it along the gap. With this one weird trick I I had my ipod open in a couple of minutes without any damage to the case or the retaining clips.
Urs Koster - 返信
Just did it today. Opened it within 3 minutes or so. You have to buy the JIMMY knife they are now selling on ifixit.com. Made it so much easier.
I used this youtube video ( http://youtu.be/6aQn-HkvtvM ) and managed to open my case twice now with no damage at all. I took my sweet time taking it apart and watched it over and over and paused after every step. I didn't end up using any of the tools iFixit provided until I got into the case. The thin blade on an exacto knife worked great you just have to be extremely careful! (I stabbed myself once in the thumb, would recommend wearing leather gloves or something like that) I replaced both my battery and headphone jack no problem! Thanks iFixit and thanks for the people who put together this guide! Saved me a lot of money!
The plastic opening tools didn't work at all for me. A couple of #15 scalpels worked perfectly as replacements.
The initial "cracking" of the case was the hardest part. I found I didn't need any of the parts kit (aside from the battery). My handy Swiss army knife provided the needed leverage and the tip to use a cut up soda can as spacers was spot on. I found it wasn't necessary to disconnect the audio cable at all. Reconnecting the power cable took a few tries, but the case popped back on and locked in without any fuss whatsoever (damage to clips/case was negligible). Happy Hunting!
It took some time to get the case apart, but it finally got done. My wife and I worked on it. She is 1000x more patient than I am. The blue tools were worthless. We found a YouTube video where they were using atomic bombs (kidding - it was other tools) and we were finally able to get into the iPod Classic. The instructions on this website were good. Battery seems to be working fine. This makes me despise Apple even more though. I don't like how hard they make it to repair items yourself. I'm not much of a do-it yourselfer, but I try. I did change out a hard drive on a desktop before and that went fairly well.
I'm glad I found this website - I was starting to mourn the impending loss of my iPod Classic 160GB as I have a lot of music (almost 60 GB) on it. Anyway, time will tell, but so far the battery is working great!
Done. It was scary at times, but got it. Had to use my Victorinox CyberTool to make the first opening (could not get with the plastic opening tool), but other than that the Fix Kit worked really good.
Now my almost 7 year-old iPod will continue playing music for a while.
On our 6th Gen Ipod-A1238-80GB tabs are located as follows:
(all tabs are about 1/8 inch in width)
The sides tabs as measured from bottom of Ipod to top,
(1) begins at 5/8" - ends 3/4"
(2) begins at 1 7/16" - ends 1 9/16"
(3) begins at 2 7/16" - ends 2 9/16"
(4) begins at 3 1/2" - ends 3 5/8"
Top tab measured from left,
(1) begins at 1 3/8" - ends 1 1/2"
Bottom measured from right,
(1) begins 3/8" - ends 1/2"
(2) begins 2" - ends 2 1/8"
From previous comments,use the aluminum can trick or thin tools as in referenced video to unlock clips.
My tips:
Forget the plastic tools.
I used a safety razor blade on the side seam to provide the initial opening, then worked the metal spudger around the clips from side to top.
Then popped it halfway back in and did the same procedure with the other side and bottom. Pop and pry, had the whole thing open in 15 minutes, no bent clips or case.
Also skipped the headphone jack disconnect, no need.
Thanks ifixit! Got my ipod back and working flawless!!
Love using the ifix as just fixed my ipod classic with new battery
It worked! I've been using my old iPhone for music and am very excited to be able to put more than 20 albums on my iPod.
I bent the back a bit, but what the !&&*. It wasn't working at all and now it does. I used to drive Volkswagens so I'm used to holding stuff together with bailing wire and duct tape.
Actually, it's not bent that bad and I saved money.
A Leatherman helped as did a utility knife, per the comments above.
Also, be very careful with all of the tools. NEVER, EVER push down with a tool when you have flesh on the opposite side, numbnut. You have to finagle a bit, but you can keep your hands out of the way.
Finally, a rubber mat helps immensely. You should have a prepared, stable, protected work surface whenever you're working with tools of any kind.
Thanks so much!
SIMPLE!
I did this and replaced the hard drive at the same time. I do suggest you invest a little more and get the tools that are offered. I own a lot of tools and I was happy that I bought the "tool kit" that iFixit.com offers. Now I have my Tunes back!
Thanks!
Kenny from San Clemente, CA.
Very helpful article. Took me about 1 hour to complete battery replacement. Comments about persevering are helpful. Would be even better if the pics of the ribbon cable connection points were MUCH larger. The plastic separator tools are completely useless in every respect, I had to use small metal screw drivers, scalpel blades and strips of thin metal cut from a beer can (read that last one in other feedback- good advice). Anyway thanks again, all sorted and couldn't have done it without u.
Dont use force! It seems like you should really pry on this thing until it pops open but its really easier to pop all of the clips around the entire ipod then it "Should" come open.
I used a thin potty knife for this and found it worked ok but had to use a second one to keep one side from re-clipping as i worked on the other side.
Just my experience...
Andre
160g thin...used only the jimmy, got it open in 5 min. didn't find it necessary to remove the headphone connection. thanks for everyone's posts and to ifixit for making great tools/parts and a helpful website. god knows how many iPods have been saved here...
This is my second battery replacement on my 120. But after I plugged it into AC power, I ended up with a Flashing (about every second) APPLE on my display. Left it on for an hour, but no change. The cable from the battery to the corner of the iPod is likely the problem. It came out when I was wrestling with it and may not have been reinstalled correctly. Naturally, I worked on a Saturday and will have to wait to find out if I am right. Still, kudos to iFixit. I couldn't have done it without their Guide...
I used dulled Exacto #10 blades and 2 handles in place of the opening tools, this allowed me to leave the blades in place at the latches as I progressed around the ipod. I now keep the blades specificaly for this repair. (I deliberately blunted the blades to avoid damage to the device or my fingers.)
The battery works so great I can't believe it. My iPod used to die if I trued to go through the main menu to a playlist. When I took the old battery out, I saw that the battery was actually warped beyond belief. I switched the battery out easily, changed the hard drive. Then I was able to sync all 12,000 songs in 10 minutes on my iPod, the iPod ran quietly and smoothly, and I charged it completely ONCE and my iPod would not DIE! I was actually trying to get it to die so I don't overcharge it and it took it 3-4 days of playing music for it to finally die.
Should not be this hard to change a battery. That's why Apple sucks it's customers dry with their service fees. Such a thorough explanation and well done though I don't think I'd have the nerve to do it. I really love my Classic too and it needs a new battery I'm sure of it since it doesn't hold a charge. I would be afraid of damaging it. I wish I had other options than sending it out to Apple which would be a total rip off. Excellent demo!
I was able to take care of the battery install without 19 to 23 (no damage to any of the parts nor didn't I need to disconnect HD wire), however after replacing the battery I am at the same place where I was when I started this replacement. Appears my issue was not a bad battery in a firs place. Device is constantly displaying "Charging. Please Wait..." with explanation yellow triangle and battery and the red bottom graphic. Anyone has any idea what the issue is, drop a comment.
This repair guide is missing the instructions for actually replacing the battery! It does not cover the actual disconnecting of the old battery or the reconnection of the new one. Perhaps this is the easiest step, but it still should be included, since that's the whole objective of this repair! I personally have never disconnected an iPod classic battery, nor have I ever connected a new battery in one. How do I know there isn't some particular tricky aspect to the battery connection? To goof up this final step would be a real shame after going through so much trouble to preserve the integrity of the iPod's case that you don't even give any instructions about the battery!
well I was able to replace the battery, but used a razor blade to pry the case out enough to use a putty knife and jeweler screw drivers to pry it open. The plastic tool is crap. It works great, although I cracked the screen in the process. Screen works but it is buggy me that I damaged it. So I ordered a screen for 10 dollars. I am dreading doing this one more time. It is not an easy task. But good tutorial. Thanks
I have an 80gb Ipod Classic. I inserted one of the blades of the plastic tool and then just slid it long the seam all the way to the corner. While prying up the blade on the corner it open up the end slightly. With my finger nails holding the long side open I slid the tool across the short end and around the corner and to the other long side. The whole thing popped open with no damage to small clips on the inside. I removed the battery cable and layed the back side over and replaced the battery without fooling with the other cable. You basically have to work the plastic tool like you would open an oyster.
Guide great. Spudger good. Thin putty knife good. Blue tools next to useless. They are okay at holding the seam open when you get it open, but useless for trying to pry it open. For that I used the spudger to open the seam, then the blue tool to just hold it open while I slid the spudger along to pry it open further up. Secondblue tool in, then putty knife in between. I would also add that after getting up the first side, round the first corner and over the top, this made the seam on the second side impossibly tight, far too tight to open - I ended up letting the first side close up most of the way and getting the spudger in the second side to get one of the blue tools then the other then the putty knife in. Time to replace battery: 20 min.
My iPod is a 6th Gen 160GB thick.
The guide is very detailed. As other reviews have stated, the only useful tools are the included metal spudger and the non-included putty knife(I got a 1 1/8" but you could go larger or smaller, mostly just used the edge of it for prying apart enough to get the spudger in). I got this kit primarily so that I'd know I had the correct battery. The package is not OEM but it's the same PN, higher capacity, fits, and it works.
All in all the procedure was pretty easy, but I do similar stuff for a living. I looked at 4 steps, winged the rest and it turned out great. If you follow the guide and are careful then it should be hard to go wrong. I spent more time looking for somewhere to buy the battery than I did replacing it.
Also I thought I might have had an intermittent connector(which goes to the control board) but the contacts were just dirty. My iPod now works like a champ.
Joel Siler - 返信
Thanks for the super detailed instructions; I bought all the recommended tools and they all worked well. Just one request: in Step 18, please make the images larger, clearer and include a drawing if possible, of the tiny cable retainer. I just put my tweezers under the white part and lifted it up, but is the white part with the black retainer piece supposed to stay on the 5 contacts, and just the ribbon come out? Your photo in #18 is not clear at all as to how and what to lift up. So the white block and the black retainer both came out, along with 2 prongs which are shaped like the Greek letter mu or the Hebrew letter taw, upside down! And the other three are a bit loose. Now it seems the only way to get at them with a soldering iron (!!) is to take off the framework side rail all around the front part of the iPod. It looks like I have to get the whole logic board out to repair the broken and loose pins.
Question: is it better to try to find a new logic board than try to solder the pins back in?
Looking forward to fixing my ipod! Im ordering kit plus some extra tools off Amazon. Thanks for supplying people with what we need and the education to do it ourselves. My Classic is 10 years old. I do not want to lose function as ive not come close to filling it.
:-)
Good instructions, but as others have said, on the 160gb Gen 6 iPods the blue tools are worthless (sorry ifixit) and it can be a bit difficult to replace the battery beacuase of the Gen 6’s different construction. However, if you have any mechanical inclination and PATIENCE, you’ll be fine completing this repair. Tools I used were to separate panels were a razor blade (like you would use in a Stanley Utility Knife and two tooth scaler tools. They’re used for scraping tarter from dog/cat teeth but they worked fantastic for separating the case. Here’s a link to what they look like/are;
https://www.amazon.com/Tooth-Scaler-Perf...
I used the razor blade to CAREFULLY begin separating the case similar to steps 2 and 3. Once case was opened a bit, I gently inserted one of the scalers. Once one was in place, I inserted the other and just worked my way around the seam gently prying the case apart. Came apart fine and the case was not damaged at all. Went right back together and works like new!
I opened it with a combination of cutting up a plastic soda 2ltr bottle (based on someone else’s suggestion using a coke can) in 2cm by 3cm pieces and using them to wedge in the sides while I used a Stanley knife to get them in there in the first place. This way you can cut up as many as you want and leave them in so that the cover doesn’t slip back in.
The advantage is that the plastic is so thin yet rigid enough in the 2x3cm size you find that it can push in just as well as some of these pro tools (that normally are fecked afterwards anyway)
It was my first ever go and took around 20mins. I’ve patience to burn, when I want. This is a job you DON’T want to rush. TIP. Just take your time. Most of that 20mins was cutting the pieces to size. I experimented with different sizes but 2x3cm is a good size.
Now to find a battery supplier that won’t take a month to get here in Ireland.
Ipod Classic 160g. Well that was a challenge. The hardest part is getting it open. I had to find a few of my own flat tools to get it opened. I wouldn’t say “very” difficult, but I would say difficult. My jewelers light made it a little easier too. Apple wants $299 to do what i just did for $20. Thanks ifixit!!!!
Frank B.
I wasn’t able to use the plastic opening tools. I used a razor scraper to open the gap enough to get the putty knife in there. I bent up the first side a bit—it’ll never quite close right again—but it just back in my car as my car stereo hard drive. The rest came open pretty quickly once I worked in the putty knife. The putty knife was just a hardware store blade—nothing special. Reconnecting the battery cable was a bit tricky; I used a pair of dull tweezers. Now it’s back together and working, though not quite as pretty; not as hard as I expected.
I am an old school tech, former Olivetti , Wang, and WWTS tech and i appreciate all the reviews on here. Why i say this is upon reviewing what worked and what did not work so well i rummaged around in my tool bag and while a splodger is great tool it’s still one size and the putty knife may cause more damage. I found for my A1238 iPOD two old Blue Point FBM-320 feeler gauges (Snap-on-tool equivalent: Gauge, Feeler, Metric, General Use, 20 blades (.05 mm thru 1.00 mm) (Blue-Point®) )
I had to use the two of them, and i am not exaggerating it took literally 5 mines to disengage front from back. the feelers are of course different thickness and make it easy to insert then I just applied the rocking technique all the way around left side 1st face up from the middle. It appeared they are the perfect width to hit each of clips 1st time. Hope this helps and thanks all for you feed back 160gb device with many memories saved thanks to all of you…. Thank again
Approximately an hour using the wrong tools the first time. After I had the right tools it only took about 30-40 minutes total taking time. I recommend this video for disassembly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aQn-Hkv...
Buy 3 exacto knives (about $3-5 each). I recommend this, but make sure to wear a good glove with grip on opposite hand. You might dull down the blade by lightly scraping on rough surface (concrete), but this can break the blade, so I used extra care & used them sharp. If you have a Gen 6 ipod the seal ‘is’ really tight, so I took a pocket knife & ran it along the right side to free up any glue & get the opening started. Again be very careful of slipping off. Then follow the video. I bought one blue “ifixit opening tool” that came in handy after I got the front to lift away from the back & slid it along the side. Good because it doesn’t go in deep to damage anything. Tweezers to dislodge the battery cable & a needle nose pliers to bend the clips down when closing. (and 1 band-aid).
Did it! The plastic levers weren’t quite strong enough to get into the seam, so I used a set of three convex Exacto-knife blades. (Look on youtube cited above for guidance).
A tip: wrap all but the last 1 cm of the exacto knife blade in tape (masking, duct, whatever) so that you have minimum sharp cutting edge exposed and DEFINITELY do this work on a table or some other solid surface.
Once open, the only hitch was the battery-motherboard connector. As several previous posts note, don’ just pull on it. CRUCIAL: The brown-grey plastic bit is on a toggle. Just use the little plastic piece to push it back (away from the wire, towards the metal frame -you’ll feel a little click) and the wire comes out easily. Repeat, pushing in opposite direction to attach battery link wire afterwards.
Didn’t undo the earphone wire. Putting the thing back together was easy-peasy. Wife is in next room blasting music from the iPod on the stereo. Thank you, iFixit!
Total time 30 minutes.
I’d like to add that I almost exclusively used the iSesamo (a fantastic tools) with the help of a couple of plastic Opening Tool and one Standard Spudger to make some way for the iSesamo to slide in vertically; I started from the bottom near the power USB connector (admittedly the thinner upper part of the metal case window got a little bent outward but it’s still mendable), I then proceeded with the iSesamo around the lower corner, up to the side opposite the audio jack connector, and on to the upper corner near the Hold slider; I then moved a little towards the audio jack connector but all the lower side and the left side was practically free, so the upper part of the iPod got as if unhinged and came disengaged without even touching the right side of the case. Besides the already mentioned small bend on the lower thin side of the cut, no other relevant damage was done. The iSesamo is an essential tool to use, yes with care, but once you get it in the right slot it can easily slide its way through it all.
Used a quality hyde 21/2in putty knife. No other tools needed at all. Just insert putty knife and pry, no damage done, took a minute or two tops. Super easy.
I am really thankful for this tutorial, and Ifixit ! I just saved my 160Go Ipod by changing the battery. I just did one mistake, while ungluing the battery, the spudger slipped and I snapped the ribbon connector of the lock/unlock switch, which does not operate any more. Could have been worse… Be warned, take your time ! it is exactly as it is described above.
It took longer for the battery to start charging for the first time, but it is now back !
I can’t believe I did it thanks to you ! My dear beloved iPod Classic is back in business ! Thank you so much for the tutorial ! Thanks thanks thanks ! (I hope you can feel howhappy I am :) )
I had previously popped open 4th & 5th generation iPods for maintenance & upgrades several times, with no problems.
I couldn’t get this one apart, so I turned to a local cell phone repair shop, who popped it open in just a few minutes while I waited (thank you, Cell Phone Repair of Tustin!).
Once apart, this guide was very useful for the remaining steps.
Battery replaced with iFixit’s battery (and case cleaned up & outer surfaces polished ). Battery life is fantastic now—thanks!
if you’re in the UK, this might be a better option than trying to import the right battery:
duncan rmi - 返信
This was my first time replacing an ipod battery. I took my time on each step and it went smoothly. I have used ribbon cables before but nothing this small. The ribbon cable socket worked different than I expected I spent some time to figure it out. So this was a good learning small project. Good instructions , easy to follow.Thanks
Just replaced the battery myself, and in the process the locking tab came off. Went ahead and put the case back together, and im getting the “charging, please wait” screen, but it’s been quite a few minutes and it hasn’t loaded the main menu screen yet. Would it have anything to do with that tab coming loose?
Good stuff. I was able to fix with the tool kit. I actually only used the iFixit Opening Tool and spudger. Nice guide.
Thanks a lot for the guide. I don’t know if it’s because I was extra careful after reading it, but I actually didn’t find it as hard as described. It was pretty straight forward and only used a metal spudger, to go around the case to free it. No damage to the back plate or any of the pins. It all clicked nicely into place to close it afterwards.
While I am a big fan of ifixit and have a collection of their tools, this is a really poor method for removing the iPod classic back. I started with this method and have since tried others. I have now done many and the best and far easier method is to use the Jimmy tool. Before you go to Amazon to buy a cheaper version, don’t. The ifixit model is far superior. Take it like a knife and insert it anywhere into the seam between front and back and then jimmy it (pun intended) downward toward back of the case. Then gently work your way around the outside until the back is free. You won’t bend your case, bend the holding flanges, or otherwise do any damage. You can easily reuse the original back if you want to. I have worked on 4G through 7G. As stated some G are more difficult than others, but the Jimmy method works with all of them.
just finished putting a battery - thanks to you -in my 2007 IPOD CLASSIC. Was it difficult. Yes. Was it successful. Yes.
Thank you so much.
It went easier then I thought it would. I did have to use a thin metal clay sculpture tool I happen to keep on my workbench to get started to open it. The metal spurger would work as well, though not as thin as the above mentioned tool. The case didn't contort much at all, only took about 20 minutes. Thank you! Gives me confidence to tackle more repairs.
I’ve got my new battery for my old iPod classic but I’v not changed my battery yet.
Merci, beaucoup pour ce tutoriel. Il m’a fallu une bonne heure et demi pour démonter mon IPod Classic 80 Go. Merci pour vos outils très pratique. Je n’ai malheureusement pas pu le démonter sans rayer un petit peu la coque arrière. Et en retirant la batterie d’origine collée, je n’ai pas pu décoller la nappe du bouton hold: elle s’est arrachée. Rien de grave, il est reparti pour de nombreux autres heures d’écoute de musique.
Merci encore
This did not end well for my 160gb gen6…….
Piece of cake, as the saying goes! (Sorry, but IMHO—in my humble opinion—opening the case wasn’t as difficult as it’s made out to be.) Got it done, battery replaced successfully, case pried open and closed up again, in about an hour.
But it’s not all balloons and sunshine. Trying to pry open the bottom edge, the tool slipped and entered the charging port, apparently knocking loose some pins. Now I can’t get the new battery to charge, or the device to sync with my MacBook Pro. I hate creating problems by accidentally breaking something else while attempting a repair! Arrrggh!
I used the flat metal “paddles” found in the original iFixit kit (the one with the 54 bit Nut Driver set, in the grey pouch with Velcro) to open up the iPod, along with a couple of plastic spudgers and the iFixit “Jimmy”. As many have reported, the plastic tools are practically worthless. Both times I tried to use one, part of it broke off in the iPod. I also had no use for the 1 1/2” putty knife.
anasazi4st - 返信
“30 minutes to two hours. IF YOUR LUCKY” Dankpods
Pas facile, mais faisable en un peu plus d’une heure, le plus dur étant de glisser le spudger sur les cotés.
Ps: j’ai utilisé un cutter pour un des cotés en suivant la rainure pour améliorer le passage (presque sans marque)
Attention à avoir un spudger en métal et la spatule de platrier sinon infaisable.
Bon courage ;)
Having read all the comments, I was prepared for a tough job replacing the battery of my iPod classic 160GB 6th gen. But I was very positively surprised. Using an iSesamo tool and a number of plastic pieces that I cut from a small pizza salad container, it was done in less than 20 mins. I used the iSesamo tool to carefully pry open the case, and the plastic pieces to make the clips stay open while I continued to the next clip with the tool. Only slipped once with the tool, making a small scratch in the metal case. No bloodshed, no sweat, no tears. And the case still looks great, aside from the small scratch, no dents or bendings. My iPod now works great again. Thank you iFixit and all the comments here, it helped a lot.
Thanks for the guide. Managed to do this without severing the audio jack or other cables. Battery is charging as we speak! Now for playlists from 2008, the kids will never forgive me. I also didn’t disconnect the audio jack, felt like I had enough movement to avoid putting too much stress, and potentially messing that up.
160Gb (thick) battery seems too fat for the case. I am at the reassembly stage but when trying to close the case the battery prevents it from closing. Without the battery in place it closes just fine. The battery is not fouling any of the internal components of the case edge. The original battery is 7.08mm at its thickest point but the IFIXIT replacement is 8.23mm thick meaning the case will not close. You only have the one choice of battery so please advise!
This entire guide is overcomplicated nonsense that takes way too long and adds unnecessary steps. Check out the video tutorial on YouTube from "Elite Obsolete." It allowed me to crack open a 6th gen classic with no visible damage in less than five minutes using nothing more than a single sesamo tool. The entire battery replacement took less than fifteen minutes on my first attempt. Whoever wrote this guide is a sadist.
Recién vi el instructivo de paso a paso la verdad que difícil abrirlo lo logre gracias a dios no lo dañe y puede reemplazar la bacteria lo único que puedo decir es que hay que tener mucha paciencia cuando estas muy cerca de conseguirlo sigue haciéndolo con mucho cuidado.
Just replaced my iPod Classic 80G battery. The guide was well written and very clear. It took less than 30 minutes The key to the repair is to treat each step with delicate precision. My old bloated battery popped the case open for me, saving a bunch of steps. The case snapped together nicely with the new battery
Well there goes my hold switch, the ribbon cable for it is so fragile, the adhesive from the old battery pulled just enough as it popped out for the ribbon cable stuck underneath to completely snap with nearly no pressure...
Now to buy a replacement hold button and headphone jack part!
c’est intéressant de voir comment ont ouvre un iPod classic, moi je ne suis pas une pro même si j’en ai eu un à une époque lointaine j’aurais eu peur de me faire mal à la main mais vu que de toute Manière je ne l’ai plus la question ne se pose plus Merci à bientôt Gaëlle russo.
Thank you for these brilliant instructions. I successfully did it using your illustrations.
I didn't use plastic tools but three Jimmy knives which worked perfectly fine and quickly.
Be careful with the step to disconnect the cable: the brown lock does not actually go "upwards" but away from the back of the iPod/towards you :)
Good luck! :)
Great site! Ordered two batteries for two ipods, watched the instructions, with patience (especially on the thin one) got them both disassembled and reassembled..had to roll the edges on the thin one, and bend the clips back in place before reassembly, but voila! Both work great, and both batteries hold a long charge. Very appreciative of the availablility of batteries, the instructions, and the reasonable cost. Thanx!!
Actually, there are only 11 metal clips. From the face side:
On the top, only 1 clip centred 35mm from LHS. Avoid the first 30mm on the LHS, and the last 20mm on the RHS
On the RHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top. Take great care to avoid the topmost 15mm
On the LHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top
On the bottom, there are 2 tabs, each one 10mm in from the edge.
Also, I bought 2 spudger bars with the battery, and found them invaluable. The plastic ones supplied are nearly useless
astutebs - 返信
Okay, I’m a noob, what’s an LHS…I assume it’s “Left..H…S" and RHS is “Right…H…S”, but please elucidate.
Miguel FC - 返信
Left Hand Side
Right Hand Side
darren_chalk -
take your time, be patient, it’s hard but you can do it. Watch other videos from youtube for battery replacement for your model to supplement this written procedure - particularly with regard to releasing the battery ribbon connector. I have the hardest one to crack open I and got it done and I’m 63 years old with bad hands…..my ipod classic now works good as new!!!!!!
Donald Diebold - 返信
Hold Switch in locked position....What is it...What is hold switch? what is locked position? Pl.explain
Alagappan Natarajan - 返信
The hold switch is on the top.When you see the color on the hold switch. It's either locked or not.
Paul wortman -