はじめに
iPhoneを使用すると、バッテリー残量がすぐになくなりますか?使用年数が長くなれば、バッテリーフル充電ができなくなります。Appleのバッテリーは500回充電すると容量全体の80%までしか充電できなくなります。すると大多数のユーザーにとっては18−24ヶ月でその時期を迎えるということです。バッテリーに使用されているリチウムイオンの質が低下したとき、iPhoneの動きが遅くなります。このガイドを使ってバッテリーを交換し、iPhoneをベストパフォーマンスの状態に回復しましょう。
バッテリーが膨張している場合は適切な処理を進めてください。
このガイドではディスプレイ、下側のスピーカーとTaptic Engineを完全に取り外して、バッテリーの接着ストリップにアクセスしやすいよう作業をします。
バッテリーの最適化のために、この手順を完了後、新しく搭載したバッテリーの[[Battery Calibration|キャリブレーション|new_window=true]をしてください。 100%まで充電したら、そのままプラグに繋いだまま、さらに2時間充電状態にします。それから自動的にシャットダウンするまで放電させて、中断なく一気に100%まで充電してください。
ビデオの概要
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ヘアドライヤー、ヒートガンまたはiOpener を準備してiPhoneの下側端に約1分間あてます。するとディスプレイ下の圧着材が柔らかくなります。
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
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シングルタイプの吸盤カップを使用している場合は、デバイスの下側端に吸盤を取り付けます。カーブしているガラス部分の上は避けてください。
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
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吸盤カップを同じ強さでしっかりと引き上げます。フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作るための圧力で引いてください。
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生じた隙間に開口ピックを差し込みます。
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
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ディスプレイ上部端はクリップと接着剤で固定されています。
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ディスプレイをLighting ポートの方向に揺らしながら引っ張り、ディスプレイ上部のコーナー周辺に開口ピックを差し込んでスライドします。
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反対側のコーナーにも開口ピックをスライドして、ディスプレイを固定している残りの接着剤を全て切開します。
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iPhoneの左側からディスプレイを持ち上げて開口します。(本のページをめくるように)
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ディスプレイを衝立のようなものに立て掛けて固定してください。
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
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基板のコネクター用ブラケットを固定している次の長さのY000ネジを5本外します。
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1.1 mm ネジー3本
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3.1 mmネジー1本
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3.7 mmネジー1本
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
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ブラケットを外します。
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
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スパッジャーの先端や汚れのない指の先を使って、バッテリーコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて外します。
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作業中、アクシデントでソケットと接触してしまい電源が誤って入らないように、コネクターを基板から少し曲げ、接触しない位置に固定します。
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
luca.valli - 返信
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
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スパッジャーの先端や爪の先を使って、OLEDパネル用ケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、デジタイザのケーブルコネクターをソケットから引き上げて外します。
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
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接着剤が外れるまでゆっくりとケーブルを持ち上げます。
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
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Taptic Engineとスピーカーを固定しているブラケットから次の7本のネジを外します。
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Y000 1.9 mm ネジー2本
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Y000 1.2 mmネジー1本
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Y000 1.6 mmネジー1本
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2.4 mmプラスネジー1本
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1.7 mmプラスネジー1本
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1.5 mmプラスネジ−1本
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Andy Price - 返信
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スピーカーコネクタのカバーに留められた2.1 mm Y000ネジを外します。
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
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バッテリーの底で接着ストリップが切断してしまいリアケースに付いたままの場合はiOpener かヘアドライヤーを準備して、バッテリー裏のリアケースに直接熱をあててください。
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iPhoneを裏返しにして、頑丈な糸(デンタルフロスや薄いギター弦など)をバッテリーの下にくぐらせます。
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糸を布で包んで(あるいは手袋をはめて)指を保護します。
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糸を左右に鋸を引くように、バッテリーの上から下まで接着剤を切り込みながらスライドします。接着剤が変形するのが遅いため、この作業には若干時間がかかります。忍耐してバッテリーを解放しましょう。バッテリーにダメージを与えたり変形させないようにご注意ください。
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バッテリーの下端を掴み、iPhoneから取り出します。
When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.
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新しい交換パーツと元のパーツを比較してください。
- 残ったコンポーネントを移植したり、新しいパーツの裏の接着剤を取り除く必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、上記の作業を逆順に進めてください。
電子部品の廃棄物は、R2またはe-Steward認定リサイクラーへお持ちください。
修理が予定どおりに進みませんでしたか?トラブルシュートの助けとして私たちのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
新しい交換パーツと元のパーツを比較してください。
- 残ったコンポーネントを移植したり、新しいパーツの裏の接着剤を取り除く必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、上記の作業を逆順に進めてください。
電子部品の廃棄物は、R2またはe-Steward認定リサイクラーへお持ちください。
修理が予定どおりに進みませんでしたか?トラブルシュートの助けとして私たちのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
195 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
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16 件のコメント
In the store it says the iSlack is only for iPhone 5 and 6. In this review the iSlack is used (without tray). Does that mean it can be used on the iPhone X as well?
@rvdm The little bracket in the middle of the iSclack is sized for iPhone 5, but that bracket is optional and very easy to detach. At that point you have a really great general-purpose suction tool that works for all kinds of devices (even bigger ones like tablets). I’ll see about updating the description on the store page to reflect that fact. ;)
Have you all ever had a problem of the phone staying stuck on a percentage and takes so long to charge plz let me know because I just got my iPhone X and it take so long to charge and I got it brand new from AT&T
bonne continuation
Esta solucionado el tema del Chip Texas instrument para baterias no reemplazadas en Apple, gracias.
C’è un errore di traduzione al passo 33 BATTERIA , iphone X diventa iphone 8.
Marco
Ciao Marco! Hai occhi di lince! Grazie per il commento. Ho corretto la traduzione. Commenti di questo tipo sono sempre benvenuti. Hai anche la possibilità di adattare direttamente la traduzione, cliccando sull’icona “Traduci”. Saluti, Claire
Note that my replacement battery was completely dead when I installed it, so when I tested it, I thought perhaps something wasn’t hooked up right. After removing the bracket for the connectors and reattaching the battery connector I tried again. Since that failed, I plugged the phone in. I got a “no charge” battery icon. After a few minutes I removed the phone from the charger. The phone stayed on with the “plug in the phone” icon, so I knew everything was put back together correctly.
Critical Note! When installing the new battery make sure the connector lines up. The instructions mention having the speaker and taptic engine in place so I focused on squaring up with those. This was a mistake! Now my connector is 2mm too low and won’t line up. Not sure how I will fix this yet but hopefully I won't need to remove everything again.
Aparecerá el porcentaje de la batería en el apartado de “salud”?
removing the components that are below the battery seems rather unnecessary to me, you could remove the battery without taking those out
I had an issue with a swollen battery on a iphone X, the battery was pushing the display assembly and the phone couldn’t close properly. Replaced with new battery and all went fine. Great guide as always
There are 6.81mm long screws!
Daniel - 返信
One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?
cgtyoder - 返信
same situation here
kaunomarcius - 返信
Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?
patrick27leiser - 返信
Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.
patrick27leiser - 返信
I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!
cgtyoder - 返信
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
Kyle Harris - 返信