iPhone X のバッテリーの交換

There are 6.81mm long screws!

One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

same situation here

Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

Rich May 23, 2020

My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

Do this sensor affect face id?

It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.

The 2.4mm screw identified as “green” needs a Y000 screwdriver

if you use a guitar string, remember NOT to use a METALLIC guitar string.

When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.

Connect the battery first then put it in place. Other way it is hard to adjust power connector.

I would also HIGHLY suggest re-installing the speaker as well before installing the battery - it was a very tight squeeze as the bottom-right of the battery was snug against the speaker when I tried to get that back in.