はじめに
この修理ガイドを使って、iPhone SE 2020のバッテリーを交換して、バッテリーライフやパフォーマンスを改善させましょう。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、[[What to do with a swollen battery|適切な方法で処理してください|new_window=true]。
この修理ガイドでは、ディスプレイアセンブリを完全に取り出します。これは、ディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えないように予防措置として行う作業です。ディスプレイケーブルにプレッシャーを与えず、安全にバッテリーの取り外しができる経験者の方は、ディスプレイを外す手順をスキップしてください。また、スマートフォンを開けたら、すぐにバッテリーを固定している接着ストリップを外すこともできますが、このガイドでは先にTaptic Engineを取り外すことをお勧めします。アクシデントで下側の接着ストリップを切断してしまったり、低い角度で接着ストリップを引っ張る時、Taptic Engineに引っ掛けてしまう可能性が低くなるからです。
このガイドを完成後、パフォーマンスの最適化のために、新しくインストールしたバッテリーを キャリブレーションしてください。
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iPhoneの下端を加熱すると、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、開きやすくなります。
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ヘアドライヤーを使用するか、iOpenerを準備し、ディスプレイ裏側の接着剤を柔らかくするために、iPhone下部端に約90秒間あてます。
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Jiří Sítko - 返信
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ホームボタンのすぐ上にあるフロントパネルの下半分に吸盤を取り付けます。
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
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一定の力で吸盤カップを引き上げて、フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
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隙間に開口ピックを挿入します。
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
Brian Gill - 返信
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本のページをめくるように、ディスプレイの左側を持ち上げてiPhoneを開きます。
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作業がしやすいように、iPhoneを開口をしたままディスプレイの後ろに衝立を置き、立てかけてください。
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下側にあるディスプレイケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードに固定している4本のプラスネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.3 mmネジ
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2本の2.8 mmネジ
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ブラケットを取り外します。
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
Mark Ordaz - 返信
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
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バッテリコネクタケーブルを基板から少し離して曲げます。アクシデントでケーブルがソケットに接触していまい、iPhoneの電源が入らないようにするためです。
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
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フロントパネルのセンサーアセンブリコネクターとブラケットを固定している3本の1.3 mmプラスねじを取り外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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ディスプレイアセンブリを取り外します。
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
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Taptic Engineの横にあるブラケットを固定している３本のネジを外します。
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1.3mm Y000ネジ１本
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2.7mm プラスネジ１本
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2.9mm プラスネジ１本
My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.
I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.
Hey William!
We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.
since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.
Bob McCall - 返信
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ソケットが持ち上がらないように固定するため、開口ピックをアンテナのフレックスケーブルの下にスライドさせます。
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ソケットが持ち上がらないように固定したまま、スパッジャーの尖った先端のほうを使ってアンテナのフレックスケーブルを持ち上げて取り外します。
Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.
Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.
I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks
I agree jgrsf
Bob McCall - 返信
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Taptic Engineを固定している２本のネジを取り外します。
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2.1mm プラスネジ１本
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2.1mm スタンドオフネジ１本
Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?
It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.
When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).
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スパッジャーの尖った先端を使って、アンテナケーブルのソケットをその下のコネクタからこじ開けて外します。
Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.
Yep, I did find it too. Thanks
Hola,
Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?
Gracias
I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).
John Weise - 返信
I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.
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スパッジャーの尖ったほうの先端を使ってTaptic Engineのフレックスケーブルを持ち上げて外します。
I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).
My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.
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ゆっくりと、バッテリーから接着タブをiPhoneの下に向かって引き出します。
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バッテリーとリアケースの間からストリップが滑り出てくるまで、一定の張力を維持して着実に引っ張ります。iPhoneの他のコンポーネントに引っ掛からない範囲で、ストリップを可能な限りローアングルで引っ張るのがベストです。
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もしバッテリー接着タブを取り外す過程で裂けてしまった場合は、指か先の丸いピンセットで残った接着剤を取り出して、引っ張り続けてください。
This was the most frustrating step of the process. I found that if you pull steadily and slowly while continuing to grip the adhesive as close to the battery as you can there is a much smaller chance of breaking the adhesive strip and losing it under the battery.
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もしいづれかの接着ストリップが裂けてしまい、バッテリがリアケースから外せない場合、iOpenerを準備するかヘアドライヤーでバッテリーの裏側のリアケースを直接暖めます。
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iPhoneをひっくり返して、バッテリーの下に強い弦のようなもの（たとえばデンタルフロスやギターの細い弦）を差し込みます。
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バッテリーの長さに沿って、のこぎりのように弦を左右に引っ張りながら接着剤を分離します。絶対にバッテリーを変形させたり壊さないでください。
In my case the floss caught on the sharp edge of the wireless charging coil pulling up the edge of the coil, butane cutting off the floss. I think the coil had been damaged by some previous repair, but be careful. After you pull past the first two adhesive strips, peek under the battery to make sure the floss is sliding over not under the coil. The coil doesn't look like a coil – more like a paper thin pad.
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Having received a replacement battery from CE Store, the phone is now OK with top battery performance. The one received earlier was just a scrap, not chargeable. Now, I’m quite satisfied.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
Same issue. Home button is dead. No cables were damaged. Everything else works. Any ideas?
I recommend making sure the battery connector is lined up with the socket before setting it down on in the compartment, mine was very close, but a little too high and it made getting it connected a little more difficult than it needed to be.
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。ディスプレイの再組み立ての前に、 ディスプレイ用接着剤を再装着する作業を忘れないでください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプは、iPhone SE 2020アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。ディスプレイの再組み立ての前に、 ディスプレイ用接着剤を再装着する作業を忘れないでください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプは、iPhone SE 2020アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
6 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
3 件のコメント
Quick question on this guide, and maybe I missed the listing on this one, but like the iPhone 11, will this give you that message regarding the battery not being an apple part if you replace the battery?
It might considering Apple is stooping to these antics.
https://www.ifixit.com/News/33147/apple-...
Imagine that. Your display breaks, by accident or by carelessness - no matter, you want to fix your own display or take it someplace that isn’t “Apple Authorized” and because you don’t go directly to Apple’s den of thieves, they pull this on you. You don’t want to pay out the yingyang? I guess you’ve got a faulty display then!
(Look, I get it. They do this to save their own butts legally. That does not make it right.)
Jesse -
I’ve looked at both the original SE and this next generation SE and I’m wondering if it’s really necessary to remove the entire display. I realize if the phone has its original battery in it that it likely is but if you’ve replaced it once before I don’t see why it’d be necessary to remove the display, just remove the battery itself and then you have less work. Maybe I’m missing something?
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - 返信