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はじめに

iPhone SEのスクリーンを交換する方法を学べます。このパーツにはフロントカメラ、センサアセンブリとEMIシールドが既に搭載されています。これで修理がより簡単に済みます。

必要な作業は、Touch ID(指紋認証スキャン用)を保つ為、古いスクリーンを取り出して、ホームボタンを新しいスクリーンに取り付けることです。

また、このガイドを利用してフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットの交換もできます。

ビデオの概要

  1. iPhoneのバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費された状態で作業を始めましょう。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはダメージを与えると引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。
    • iPhoneのバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費された状態で作業を始めましょう。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはダメージを与えると引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。

    • 作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を必ず切ってください。

    • Lightning コネクターの両側にある3.9 mmのペンタローブネジを2本外します。

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - 返信

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - 返信

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - 返信

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - 返信

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - 返信

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - 返信

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - 返信

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - 返信

  2. フロントガラスが割れている場合、ガラスに透明な補強テープを貼りましょう。作業中ガラスが飛び散ったりして怪我をしないようご注意ください。 画面全体を何重にも貼り、しっかりと固定します。 テープを表面に貼ると、画面を持ち上げた際に画面構造を保ってくれます。
    • フロントガラスが割れている場合、ガラスに透明な補強テープを貼りましょう。作業中ガラスが飛び散ったりして怪我をしないようご注意ください。

    • 画面全体を何重にも貼り、しっかりと固定します。

    • テープを表面に貼ると、画面を持ち上げた際に画面構造を保ってくれます。

    • 修理作業中はガラスの破片が飛び散り、目に入ることがないように保護メガネを装着してください。

    This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

    steven krieger - 返信

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - 返信

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - 返信

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - 返信

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - 返信

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - 返信

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - 返信

  3. 次の手順では、本体からディスプレイを外します。ディスプレイはガラスのスクリーンとメタルクリップが付いたプラスチック製のベゼルからできています。 この作業でどんなツールを使ってもディスプレイ全体を本体から完全に取り外してください。 スクリーンが離れてきたら、第1番目の画像にあるように、プラスチック製の開口ツールをフレームとメタル製本体の間に差し込み、ケースからメタルクリップを外します。
    • 次の手順では、本体からディスプレイを外します。ディスプレイはガラスのスクリーンとメタルクリップが付いたプラスチック製のベゼルからできています。

    • この作業でどんなツールを使ってもディスプレイ全体を本体から完全に取り外してください。

    • スクリーンが離れてきたら、第1番目の画像にあるように、プラスチック製の開口ツールをフレームとメタル製本体の間に差し込み、ケースからメタルクリップを外します。

    • ディスプレイベゼルが外れた本体を再組み立てする際は、デバイス本体を密封するためにプラスチックベゼルとガラスの間に薄い接着タブを付けることもできます。

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - 返信

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - 返信

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - 返信

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - 返信

    • 次の2つの手順ではiPhone 本体を安全に開口する必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。1回以上の修理に終わらない方はぜひ入手してください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は次の2つの手順をスキップしてください。

    • iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。

    • 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。

    • 上部の吸盤カップはホームボタンより上に接着します。

    • iSclackのレバーを開いて吸盤を閉じます。iPhoneの両面、中心部に吸盤カップをしっかりと押し当てます。

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - 返信

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - 返信

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - 返信

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - 返信

  4. iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがります。 iSclackは割れたiPhoneのフロントパネルが飛び散ることなく、安全に開口できるように設計されていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。
    • iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがります。

    • iSclackは割れたiPhoneのフロントパネルが飛び散ることなく、安全に開口できるように設計されていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。

    • 二つの吸盤カップを iPhoneから取り外します。

    • 次の3つの手順をとばして手順9まで進みましょう。

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

    The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

    iScott - 返信

    This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

    debsmcd6 - 返信

  5. iSclackをご利用にならない場合は、フロントパネルを持ち上げるため、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを使います。
    • iSclackをご利用にならない場合は、フロントパネルを持ち上げるため、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを使います。

    • カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと装着させます。

    • カップの吸盤がスクリーンにしっかりと装着していることを確認してください。

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - 返信

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - 返信

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - 返信

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - 返信

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - 返信

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - 返信

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - 返信

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - 返信

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - 返信

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - 返信

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - 返信

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - 返信

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - 返信

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - 返信

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - 返信

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - 返信

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - 返信

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - 返信

  6. フロントパネルにはクリップが付いており、デバイス本体部分と幾つかのリボンケーブルで繋がっています。ここでの作業の目的はクリップを外し、ケーブルの接続が外れる程度まで本体を開口することです。破損を防ぐために、ゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。
    • フロントパネルにはクリップが付いており、デバイス本体部分と幾つかのリボンケーブルで繋がっています。ここでの作業の目的はクリップを外し、ケーブルの接続が外れる程度まで本体を開口することです。破損を防ぐために、ゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

    • 吸盤カップが隙間なくホームボタン付近のフロントパネルアセンブリにしっかりと装着しているか確認してください。

    • iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体リアケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離します。

    • 吸盤カップを引き上げながら、プラスチック製の開口ツールで、ゆっくりとリアケースの端からフロントパネルアセンブリをこじ開けていきます。

    • 時間をかけてゆっくりと同じ力加減で作業します。このフロントパネルアセンブリは数あるデバイスの中でも特に頑丈に装着されています。

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - 返信

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - 返信

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - 返信

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - 返信

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - 返信

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - 返信

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - 返信

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - 返信

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - 返信

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - 返信

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - 返信

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - 返信

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - 返信

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - 返信

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - 返信

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - 返信

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - 返信

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - 返信

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - 返信

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - 返信

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - 返信

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - 返信

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - 返信

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - 返信

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - 返信

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - 返信

  7. リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを完全に外さないでください。幾つかのリボンケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態にします。 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を緩めて、吸盤を外します。
    • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを完全に外さないでください。幾つかのリボンケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態にします。

    • 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を緩めて、吸盤を外します。

    • スクリーンから吸盤カップを外します。

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - 返信

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - 返信

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - 返信

  8. ホームボタンケーブルを覆うメタル製ブラケットが取り出せる程度まで本体を開きます。 本体を大きく開きすぎないで下さい。ホームボタンケーブルやホームボタンケーブルが差し込まれたソケットにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ケーブルが緩んでいる状態にします。ーケーブルが伸びきっていたら、開きすぎです。 新規購入時のオリジナルのホームボタンアセンブリではTouch IDが使用できます。ケーブルの破損後、新しいホームボタンを取り付けた場合、ホームボタンとしての機能は回復できますが、Touch IDは使用できなくなります。
    • ホームボタンケーブルを覆うメタル製ブラケットが取り出せる程度まで本体を開きます。

    • 本体を大きく開きすぎないで下さい。ホームボタンケーブルやホームボタンケーブルが差し込まれたソケットにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ケーブルが緩んでいる状態にします。ーケーブルが伸びきっていたら、開きすぎです。

    • 新規購入時のオリジナルのホームボタンアセンブリではTouch IDが使用できます。ケーブルの破損後、新しいホームボタンを取り付けた場合、ホームボタンとしての機能は回復できますが、Touch IDは使用できなくなります。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってブラケットを外し、ピンセットで取り出します。

    • 次の2つの手順は再組み立てに関連しています。再組み立てを始めるまではこの2つをとばして手順12から作業を続けます。

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - 返信

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - 返信

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - 返信

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - 返信

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden Baker -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - 返信

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - 返信

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - 返信

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - 返信

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - 返信

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - 返信

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - 返信

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - 返信

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - 返信

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - 返信

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - 返信

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - 返信

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - 返信

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - 返信

  9. 再組み立ての際は、Touch IDケーブルのブラケットを再装着してください。ブラケットの先端をバッテリーとメタル製タブの正面にあるTouch IDケーブルコネクターの間でスライドします。底側はコネクター上に取り付けてください。 ブラケットの上部をTouch IDケーブルコネクター上で左側から右側にスライドします。
    • 再組み立ての際は、Touch IDケーブルのブラケットを再装着してください。ブラケットの先端をバッテリーとメタル製タブの正面にあるTouch IDケーブルコネクターの間でスライドします。底側はコネクター上に取り付けてください。

    • ブラケットの上部をTouch IDケーブルコネクター上で左側から右側にスライドします。

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - 返信

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - 返信

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - 返信

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - 返信

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - 返信

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - 返信

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - 返信

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - 返信

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - 返信

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - 返信

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - 返信

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - 返信

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Lionheart -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - 返信

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - 返信

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - 返信

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

  10. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Touch IDケーブルブラケットの正面端をケーブルコネクター側にパチンと折ります。 ブラケットが折りたためない場合は、ブラケットを取り出してケーブルコネクター上に正しく装着するように再度スライドしてください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Touch IDケーブルブラケットの正面端をケーブルコネクター側にパチンと折ります。

    • ブラケットが折りたためない場合は、ブラケットを取り出してケーブルコネクター上に正しく装着するように再度スライドしてください。

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - 返信

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  12. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ソケットからホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 ソケットからケーブルコネクターのみ外します。ソケット全体に接触しないでください。ソケットは接着剤で装着されたケーブルなので、注意深く扱わなければソケット自体を外してしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ソケットからホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • ソケットからケーブルコネクターのみ外します。ソケット全体に接触しないでください。ソケットは接着剤で装着されたケーブルなので、注意深く扱わなければソケット自体を外してしまうことがあります。

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - 返信

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - 返信

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - 返信

    非常感谢!我正在准备更换朋友的电池。你的提醒很有用~

    Liu bing -

  13. コネクターの接続が外れたら、本体上部を蝶番のようにして、アセンブリのホームボタン先端をリアケースから引き上げます。 ディスプレイを約90度で開き、作業中固定するため、ディスプレイの後ろに衝立を用意します。 作業中、輪ゴムでディスプレイを固定してください。これはディスプレイケーブルに過度な圧力が加わらないようにするためです。
    • コネクターの接続が外れたら、本体上部を蝶番のようにして、アセンブリのホームボタン先端をリアケースから引き上げます。

    • ディスプレイを約90度で開き、作業中固定するため、ディスプレイの後ろに衝立を用意します。

    • 作業中、輪ゴムでディスプレイを固定してください。これはディスプレイケーブルに過度な圧力が加わらないようにするためです。

    • 急な場合は、未開封の飲用水缶を使ってディスプレイを支えてください。

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - 返信

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - 返信

  14. 基板に留められたメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
    • 基板に留められたメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - 返信

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - 返信

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - 返信

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - 返信

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - 返信

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - 返信

  15. iPhoneからメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットを外します。
    • iPhoneからメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットを外します。

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - 返信

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - 返信

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - 返信

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - 返信

  16. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を丁寧に外します。 バッテリーコネクターのみ持ち上げてください。基板上のソケットや基板には接触しないでください。基板上のコンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を丁寧に外します。

    • バッテリーコネクターのみ持ち上げてください。基板上のソケットや基板には接触しないでください。基板上のコンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - 返信

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - 返信

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - 返信

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - 返信

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - 返信

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - 返信

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - 返信

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - 返信

  17. 基板上に留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから次のネジを取り出します。
    • 基板上に留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから次のネジを取り出します。

    • 1.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.3 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • この1.7 mmネジは磁化スクリュードライバーに対応していません。取り外しの際は紛失に十分ご注意ください。

    • 再組み立ての際には上記手順にあるネジの位置を十分に確認してください。謝って右側下のネジ穴に1.3 mmのネジや1.7 mm ネジのどちらかを装着してしまうと、電話が正しく機能せず、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ネジを固く締めすぎないようにご注意ください。簡単にネジが留まらない場合は、誤ったサイズのネジを装着している可能性があります。無理に留めないでください。

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - 返信

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - 返信

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - 返信

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - 返信

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - 返信

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - 返信

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - 返信

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - 返信

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - 返信

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - 返信

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - 返信

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - 返信

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - 返信

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - 返信

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - 返信

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - 返信

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - 返信

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - 返信

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - 返信

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - 返信

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - 返信

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - 返信

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - 返信

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - 返信

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - 返信

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - 返信

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - 返信

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - 返信

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - 返信

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - 返信

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - 返信

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - 返信

  18. 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り外します。
    • 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り外します。

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - 返信

  19. スパッジャーや爪先を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーや爪先を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーや爪先を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - 返信

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - 返信

  20. この手順でケーブルの接続を外したり、取り付けたりする前に、バッテリーの接続が外れているか必ず確認してください。 LCDケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
    • この手順でケーブルの接続を外したり、取り付けたりする前に、バッテリーの接続が外れているか必ず確認してください。

    • LCDケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デバイスを再組み立てする際にLCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状がでたら、単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして再起動してください。再起動方法はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - 返信

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - 返信

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - 返信

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - 返信

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - 返信

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - 返信

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Liu - 返信

  21. 最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
    • 最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - 返信

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - 返信

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - 返信

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - 返信

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - 返信

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - 返信

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - 返信

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - 返信

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Lionheart -

  22. リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを外します。
    • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを外します。

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - 返信

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - 返信

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - 返信

  23. ホームボタンケーブルに留められた#000 プラスネジを1本緩めます。 この固定ネジは接点バネ付きでホームボタンケーブルに留められています。再組み立ての際は正しい位置ーLCDに一番近いネジ側ーに取り付けられているか確認してください。
    • ホームボタンケーブルに留められた#000 プラスネジを1本緩めます。

    • この固定ネジは接点バネ付きでホームボタンケーブルに留められています。再組み立ての際は正しい位置ーLCDに一番近いネジ側ーに取り付けられているか確認してください。

    • 交換用のパーツにこの固定ネジや接点バネがついていない場合、これらを新しいケーブルに移す必要があります。

    The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

    Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

    Nathan - 返信

    Hi,

    The home button doesn't work ?

    Help

    Sultan - 返信

    BE CAREFUL HERE.

    This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

    If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

    Ben - 返信

    Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

    Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

    easleyjs - 返信

    Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

    I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

    wilsonmichaelpatrick - 返信

    Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

    Chris91177 - 返信

    what if you lose the spring contact. does the phone work without it? if not, where can I find a spring contact?

    Andreas Kouroupis - 返信

    I have this same problem. I lost mine but found the screw where can I order one from?

    kristlewomack -

    I also have this problem, do any home buttons come with this piece?

    viarengo1 -

    Hello. I lost the little 'spring clip'. My phone is working erratically. Could that be anything to do with the cip not being in place? Thanks

    ggough60 - 返信

    I am pretty sure I had replaced the captive spring wrong (didn't see the second image until I have completed the project). But the phone seems to have a perfectly working home button now.

    Alan Kang - 返信

    This screw/spring combo fell off right before reassembling. Good luck and found the screw again. So my advice: Put a tape around the screw/spring or dismount them from the cable and put them in a safe place. The spare screw delivered with the display was too short.

    Tom Vee - 返信

    I thought I lost the spring contact, but it actually just got rotated under the section of cable that the captive screw is attached to. The spring contact should be "captive" at the same place the screw is so it should'nt get lost too easily.

    Anand Varma - 返信

    On the phone I worked on, the screw wouldn’t separate from the “captive spring.” LEAVE IT! It’s more trouble than it’s worth to remove it, Just reuse the screw it will make the re-install on the new screw much easier. Also use the tweezers to hold the spring in the correct orientation as you screw it back on.

    Benjamin Finley - 返信

    During reassembly, I wasn’t sure wether the spring contact backing was beneath or above the cable. It is hard to see in the 2nd image in step 23.

    But in step 24 the 2nd image shows that the spring contact backing is right under the cable.

    So the spring contact backing goes first, then the cable and then of course the screw.

    Wolfgang Bauer - 返信

    For the life of me, I cannot get this screw out. I have been using the same screw driver and nothing has been working.

    Warren Binder - 返信

    I think there is one step missing here which shows a picture with the correct position of the ‘spring contact backing’. Consider the part which has a hole in the middle: the flat part is sided to top, making the round part sided to bottom. This is a clear picture of the ‘spring contact backing’: http://www.icellulartech.com/iphone-5s-h... (if the link is broken by the time you see it, type the name in Google).

    Andre Silva - 返信

    I had a problem when reassembling, I removed this little screw and the spring contact from my original screen to put them in the new one, but the new one had already its own screw, soI just removed it and tried to put the screw from my original screen into the new one but it didn’t work, and the worst thing of all is that I lost the screw that came with the new screen and that’s the only one that works.

    Elías Eduardo Reyes Vázquez - 返信

    May seem silly to say this…. however it might prevent some confusion for others.

    my replacement screen had a screw that needed to be removed in order for the captive screw and home button cable to be secured.

    Dean Allan Land - 返信

    When I unscrewed it, the spring contact part moved too & the little prong rotated under the cable. I thought (mistakenly) that this was its intended position. The screw also came loose, which made reassembly difficult until I saw that 2nd photo above and realized what the orientation was supposed to be.

    The order is screw -> cable hole -> spring contact -> screw hole.

    The rounded edge of the spring contact should face the bottom of the phone to match up with the hole’s rounded edge. The perpendicular ‘lip’ should sit flush against the metal plate. The prong should stick up toward where the screen will be. Really, there’s only 1 possible way to put it on correctly, but without seeing the correct orientation first, or if the screw detaches from the cable, it’s kind of a pain to get them back together.

    seijihuzz01 - 返信

  24. ホームボタンケーブルをホームボタンブラケットの邪魔にならないよう、反対側に折ります。 ホームボタンケーブルをホームボタンブラケットの邪魔にならないよう、反対側に折ります。
    • ホームボタンケーブルをホームボタンブラケットの邪魔にならないよう、反対側に折ります。

    Aiuto, ho sostituito il touch screen e non mi funziona più il riconoscimento dell’impronta digitale (touch id). Chi può aiutarmi. Grazie

    Orazio Coccia - 返信

  25. ホームボタンブラケットから2本の1.4 mm#000プラスネジを外します。
    • ホームボタンブラケットから2本の1.4 mm#000プラスネジを外します。

    Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

    Sumit Bhatnagar - 返信

    I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

    mrnoxious -

    Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

    Bryan - 返信

    I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

    Andrew - 返信

    these are the tightest screws I've ever seen in my life. Tried applying massive pressure and just stripped the screws. Not sure what to do now

    Bob Mcroy - 返信

    Use the #00 Philips on these screws

    leeprobert - 返信

    Went and bought a #00 when the #000 didnt work. Still no luck. About to lose my mind with frustration.

    Mike Manning - 返信

    I could not get the 000 or the 00 to work, therefore I tried a #1 flat head from the kit and it worked like a charm.

    Sean O'Donohoe - 返信

    Sometimes just switching to another screwdriver might help. I noticed that the screwdrivers you often get with displays assemblies are just crap. Invest in a good one.

    Didier Daniel - 返信

    I was successful by using a 1.5 Phillips screwdriver head from a Stronger toolkit TK-LA40-38PCS

    Elaine Palmer - 返信

    Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

    Bill Pennock - 返信

    I had success using the J000 screw from the iFixit Pro kit

    Kalin Fetvadjiev - 返信

    Both of the screws have blue loc-tite on them. Best to make sure you have the right screw driver for the job. Also, if you have the “iopener”, you can apply a little “heat”. That will loosen up the loc-tite.

    Dean Allan Land - 返信

    these screws are impossible to get out…

    Cameron Bell - 返信

  26. ディスプレイアセンブリからホームボタンブラケットを取り出します。
    • ディスプレイアセンブリからホームボタンブラケットを取り出します。

    For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

    larscmueller - 返信

  27. ホームボタンケーブルアセンブリの下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。 ホームボタンケーブルは軽い接着剤で貼り付けられています。
    • ホームボタンケーブルアセンブリの下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • ホームボタンケーブルは軽い接着剤で貼り付けられています。

    • スパッジャーをゆっくりとケーブルの下に差し込み、ホームボタンケーブルをフロントパネルアセンブリから剥がします。

    • ホームボタンはフロントパネルにまだ装着された状態であるため、ホームボタンを外さないでください。

    It can be easier to come in from the other way than shown in the image, near the home button.

    Calion - 返信

    I think this is easier to do with the blue ifixit opening tool (this guy: iFixit Opening Tool) than the spludger. It gets underneath the cable more easily.

    Jonathan Stucklen - 返信

  28. 必要に応じて、破損したフロントパネルアセンブリの正面側のホームボタン上に留められたテープを剥がします。 フロントパネルから丁寧にホームボタンの上部左端を押し上げ、外します。
    • 必要に応じて、破損したフロントパネルアセンブリの正面側のホームボタン上に留められたテープを剥がします。

    • フロントパネルから丁寧にホームボタンの上部左端を押し上げ、外します。

    • ホームボタンを完全に押し出さないでください。端の一部を取り外したら、スパッジャーで残りの部分を取り出します。

    • ホームボタンの膜はとても薄くなっています。ボタンを裂いてしまうと感じたら、熱を押し当ててから再度、丁寧に外します。

  29. スパッジャーでディスプレイからホームボタンの残りの部分を外します。 スパッジャーでディスプレイからホームボタンの残りの部分を外します。
    • スパッジャーでディスプレイからホームボタンの残りの部分を外します。

    DO NOT skip this step, or you will damage the very gentle rubber hold around the home button, and that may result in a broken home button.

    Addison Rasmussen - 返信

  30. フロントパネルからホームボタンアセンブリを取り出します。
    • フロントパネルからホームボタンアセンブリを取り出します。

    Take a moment to clean any crud from the perimeter of the home button itself BEFORE reinstalling…

    finnik2d - 返信

    Take a moment to clean off any crud from around the perimeter ring of the home button. Use a sewing needle for its sharpness to CAREFULLY pick away any debris. Makes a clean assembly for when re-assembling the button back into a new display module.

    finnik2d - 返信

  31. スクリーンが残ります。
    • スクリーンが残ります。

    • 交換用のスクリーンに、先ほど取り外したアセンブリ上にコンポーネントが付いていない場合は、このガイドを使って新しいパーツに移してください。

    • 交換用スクリーンに保護用プラスチックフィルムが付いている場合は、再組み立ての前にこのフィルムを必ず剥がしてください。

    It would be helpful if at this step, it hyperlinked to the steps needed to transfer the old camera/speaker assembly to the new piece. I had to hunt around for it, and I can imagine some people who don't have a lot of experience with these kinds of things just missing the fact entirely and assembling their phone without the camera!

    erik - 返信

    Guía perfecta. Muy completa y concisa en todo momento. Sin duda un gran post en el que se explica correctamente y muy detalladamente los pasos a seguir para cambiar la pantalla del iPhone 5s. Además las imagenes y el vídeo están en muy buena calidad, sin olvidar, y no menos importante, las herramientas que necesitas para el procedimiento del cambio. Por poner una pega, solo falta que la guía estuviese en Español. Por lo demás está perfecta y muy bien redactada. 9.5/10

    Fernando Exposito Gonzalez - 返信

    I completed the entire reassembly process. but the top part of the display isn't going in. after re assembly the display is not perfectly flat

    Pujan Doshi - 返信

    I had a problem where after installing the new display assembly from iFixit (which included new front facing camera and sensor cables) my front facing mic and ambient sensor were not working. I could not talk on speakerphone or to Siri and Auto-brightness stopped working. From some of the forums it seems there is some slight difference between the 5S and SE assemblies and iFixit is selling the same one for both. I went through three replacements from iFixit, all with the exact same problem. I finally fixed it my transferring the front camera and sensor cables from my old (original) assembly to the new one from iFixit. Everything works again. If you have the same problem, I would transfer the Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable before going through the hassle of getting replacements.

    lukecparr - 返信

    reset all setting after you change the display.

    更换好屏幕组件以后可能会有一定几率出现屏幕显示正常但背光闪烁,重置所有设置以后一般都可以消失。

    Ralph Deng - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

325 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

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Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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Why do you guys say it works with the 5s screen ? Because i tried like 9 different iPhone 5s screens on SE and all of them got a line in the LCD...

Dan Even Hansen - 返信

Me too - I tried two 5S screens wit the same result, screens are obviously not interchangable

ernstxy -

An original 5s disply works flawless. Others (third party, china) will have problems. I fixed an se today but the non orignal screen had a blank display but was glowing. I had a spare original 5s lcd so I put that on and it worked perfectly. So, an original 5s display is interchangeable with the SE without any problems. Was yours an orignal?

Nghia Phan -

i heard that its two different iPhone SE models. The oldest one is compatible with 5s screen ( i tried) But if its a new one (like 5-6 month) Then its another screen so you will have to use an iPhone SE screen.

Dan Even Hansen - 返信

Can admin please update the beginning of this guide to reflect that 5S screens are NOT interchangeable? I did not see these comments before undertaking the repair, thinking that I had compatible 5S screens and had egg on my face while I waited for a week for the correct screen.

rendallwagner - 返信

Sorry about that rendallwagner! As mentioned by Nghia Phan, the issue is with OEM versus third party parts. iFixit parts are compatible, but other sellers may not have compatible parts. I updated the introductory text to specify that only the original (OEM) displays are cross-compatible.

Sam Lionheart -

certain parts of my iphone se screen is unresponsive because of water damage.

It's $450 to fix the phone at apple shop, so i'm thinking of fixing it on my own... but I've no idea whether it's the display problem or the logic board problem. How do i diagnose which one is the problem???

Jennie is bae - 返信

Finally, had to order this from the US to Europe, as I tried a so called original screen, which didn't work. Was worth paying the extra as I can trust ifixit. My 2nd screen (SE and 6) from them and both fine.

Rich - 返信

Finally got mine to work. My home button wouldn't depress, but I figured out I needed to back out the right screw from the home button bracket just a tad. It's possible to test the button while the phone is still in two pieces if anyone else has this problem too.

Chris Sirico - 返信

I have a similar issue. My button is 100% operational and touch ID works great but doesnt have that strong "click" that it did before. I cant decide if i should go back in, or be happy my repair was a success.

Vinny

vrog2 -

Great guide...even for a first timer!! I had to improvise bending the outer frame to get the glass to slide completely in. Other than that the repair was flawless! Thanks ifixit.com!!

Carlos Esquivel - 返信

Easiest repair i've done yet, slight tip if your home button isnt working after the repair, you may have put the metal bracket on backwards, that was my issue. Turn the phone on before putting the two pentalobe screws in the bottom and check to see that it works.

william landrum - 返信

This was incredibly easy. Thank you for a great tutorial. I'm shocked that I was able to do it! I even posted about it on my blog <http://www.silverslicker.com/fixing-a-br...>

Alex Bitterman - 返信

I completed this repair and the digitizer would work intermittently. Seemed a lot of other people had this same problem, and learned there is a small protective plastic piece that had to be removed on the new display. Mine was blue, others say red - either way could you include this in the directions? Would have saved me from opening the phone up three times.

Touch screen problems after screen replacement

Dennis O'Connor - 返信

Good guide - it took me about 25 minutes. At first the phone didn't appear to power up, so I thought I'd messed up somehow, but it came up fine after plugging into a charger.

jrwwallis - 返信

took me about 1.5 hours, agree with comments above - after 45 minutes, had phone back together but power would not come on. Pretty much went back through everything AND this time saw the protective blue plastic from above comment that I took off (guessing that this was for digitizer?). Made sure all connections were tight and correct but still after trying power, the darn SE would not come on. What did I mess up on? Did I get a faulty part? Argh - what do I do now? Then hooked the charger power into phone and YES and all worked (touch id, digitizer, screen, etc.). Just GO SLOW and follow steps. I did use a hair dryer to heat up the home button which worked great for getting it off. Pull this off SLOWLY WITH HEAT and you will have no problem.

Christopher Manning - 返信

Is an iFixit parts ship worldwide, not only US (especially in my country, Indonesia) ?

Because there are so many cheap things in here, and i worry, many electronic parts in Indonesia were third party/china.

alvian.apriliansyah - 返信

Will the ifixit iphone 5s screen work with an iphone se? I want to know before i purchase it.

Seth Carter - 返信

The guide was awesome. Detailed, clear and concise. There wasn’t any problems whether it was disassembling or reassembling. Thanks for making this guide!

JC Alice - 返信

I did everything correct and my iphone se had half the screen blank and the other half had lines but everything was responsive. I used an ifixit iphone 5s LCD and Digitizer and all that, does anyone have any troubleshooting tips????

Seth Carter - 返信

Instructions for this are provided in the guide. ;) Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I just assambled the new screen I received, it does not work properly. The colour is strange and the screen is not responding properly to touching, I can’t even use the slide to power off gesture because it’s not responding.

Roland Müller - 返信

OK, I solved it, there was a protective plastic film which I forgot to remove. Unfortunately the screen has a yellow shadow on the bottom, seems to be faulty.

Roland Müller -

great guide. very helpfull. but touch ID is not working …

davidcalvet - 返信

[|Repair completed successfully. However, almost stripped some of the philips #000 screws with tip in iFix it toolkit that came with screen. Luckily, I had another tip that did the job. I have a pic that clearly shows the difference, but don’t know how to post it! Recommendation: get a good quality Philips #000 driver. To iFix it: I understand that you can only offer so much for such a reasonable price. Personally, I would have gladly paid $10 more for a better quality tool.]

fixer - 返信

Bonsoir, mon Iphone SE a un problème de tactile (la moitié droite de l’écran ne fonctionne plus), se peut-il que le connecteur du câble de la vitre tactile soit en cause suite à un mauvais branchement dû à une chute? Je préfère avoir une confirmation avant de passer au démontage de l’appareil…

Raphaël Mv - 返信

The hardest part about this is getting the screen off if it’s actually cracked and getting the screen back in if your phone has any dents in the corners. Reading all the comments first helps a lot, I think more of them should be included in the guide instructions.

marcellosekoot - 返信

Nice video tutorail, picture very helpfull for re-mounting. Same as previous comment, in such a case the manual dismounting, step 7 is very usefull. x-ending screwdriver of the kit, wasn’t very good, I had an old one also from this site (8 cm length, with black handle) well adpated.

En françai!, tuto très utile pour le démontage et photos utiles au remontage. Etape 7 importante losque que la vitre complètement cassée, n’assure plus l’étanchéité de la ventouse. J’ai utilisé un ancien tournevis cruxiforme de ifixit (8cm, manche noir), mieux adapté aux têtes de vis que celui du kit.

Philippe Massot - 返信

I was able to install the screen without issue, but now the front facing microphone doesn’t work so no speakerphone or Hey Siri. I disassembled it and didn’t see any obvious problem. Some research has led me to believe the front mic on the iPhone 5S and SE are NOT the same and so while this kit is IPhone SE compatible, you might lose use of your front mic.

Andrew White - 返信

Same problem here…

Thorsten -

Same here. I replaced the screen because the proximity sensor wasn’t working. Now the proximity sensor is good but the front mic isn’t.

YJ Choi -

Same problem here…

Lasse Bombien -

IFixit kindly supplied me with a replacement replacement which I installed but the problem remains.

Lasse Bombien -

Same problem for me :(

I miss you Siri…

pbaril -

Hey guys I had the same problem with my screen. I managed to solve the issue. All I did was remove the front facing camera and sensor from my old screen and replaced it with the one on the new screen. Hey Siri is working again and my videos have sound once more :D

The guide on how to do it is here on ifixit.

brennandavid -

Hi guys, may I ask you community, something? I bought two replacement displays for my iPhone 5S. A black and a white one. I noticed that the two screens have some issues. The two of them are less sensitive than the original displays and have less deep colors. And they seem to be less sharp, almost washed out sometimes. I noticed that I need to press slightly harder on the display for it to recognize my inputs and if I use a pen with rubber tip, it isn’t recognized at all.

Alessandro Regina - 返信

I was excited to do this repair. Unfortunately, either I did something wrong, or my screen is faulty. I feel very confident on my dis-assembly and re-assembly, but all I get are some white lines. I tried removing the blue protective tape, re-seating all the connectors and power cycling. As suggested; still no joy. off to the apple store

Walter Alvarez - 返信

@waltera Could be dust/debris in the connector socket; give it a good shot of compressed air. If that doesn’t fix it, you could have a damaged flex cable or a defective display. In either case, exchanging for a new one will probably sort out the problem. If your original display still works, you can try plugging it back in to see if the white lines persist—if they go away, you probably did get a bad display.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you! I’ll give it a shot. Wouldn’t mind having a back up phone

Walter Alvarez - 返信

Walter, how did your second attempt work?

glasspusher -

Installed new screen in my SE today to replace a cracked one. I always get lines on the new display that follow bright/dark stuff (see link). Read all the comments above and double/triple checked that everything was good. I’ve done multiple screen replacements on my family’s iphones, first time I’ve had an issue. Tried the old screen without the metal backing and it worked fine before re-installing the old cracked screen for the time being. Connections are good, blew the connectors out with compressed argon (nothing but the best) but no love from the new screen.

Any ideas? Can I get an RMA?

glasspusher -

Thanks a lot for this tutorial! Apple wouldn’t fix it because of water between the glass and the screen (because of the cracks in the glass). We dried the whole phone before bringing it to Apple and when I came back home and opened it there was no sign of water damage in the case… cost me 30 minutes of my time and way less than the original repair price at the apple store. No issue with front mic, speaker or camera after the fix.

Yannick Formaggio - 返信

Does an original iphone 5s screen really work on an iPhone se? Thanks

rufo_kratos - 返信

Hi everyone,

I did the replacement following the steps but my home button does not work anymore. Both touch and normal button. Any clue?

Maxime Louyot - 返信

Replaced the screen following instructions, but my iPhone SE won’t charge past 8%. Has the lightening bolt sign but will not charge (percentage not increasing). What to do?

weonhee shin - 返信

Can anyone help me with how to properly line up the LCD connectors when reinstalling the new screen. It has been hit or miss with me and I have tried 4 different panels with no display output.( I thought it was the panels but after the 3rd panel, I began to think that it was me). I usually use my finger in unison with a spudger in order to put them in place before I hear a click. Only 2/3 of the connectors give me a solid click (im connected ) feedback while the shortest one of the bunch sorta just lazily sits on top of the connector. How would I go about resolving my problem???

Trayvon Banks - 返信

First, make sure the battery is disconnected. Hold the display in one hand and position it so that the connectors line up on the board. Press them down carefully one at a time. Don’t use a spudger, just use your finger—it’s more sensitive and you should feel it click. Four failed panels is very unlikely—so if you still don’t have any luck, start looking for other problems (blown backlight circuit maybe). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hey, I received and installed a replacement screen for my iphone SE yesterday, and although the replacement screen worked, there were vertical lines on it related to the brightness of what was being displayed. I tried all the above suggestions for the LCD connector, but none of them worked(blew off the connectors, it clicks when I put it in…) . The old screen works fine (except for the crack!) even without putting the backing piece on it, so I think there’s something wrong with the replacement screen. This is the latest of several I’ve replaced for my family in the last couple of years, and the only new screen that’s had this issue.

Edit- any ideas welcome. I tried commenting with a link to a pic of the screen yesterday, but my comment didn’t show up, don’t know if it thought it was spam. the pic is at dave dot cisnet dot com slash lines dot jpg

glasspusher - 返信

After completion, I powered on the phone and immediately saw a light leak at the top-right corer, about where the rear camera is housed. After boot, I get the notification “Unable to activate Touch ID on this iPhone”

The display is unresponsive, and the home button doesn’t work. When I lightly touch the top-right area of the screen, the light leak gets worse. This made me think something is pushing up on the back of the display, but I opened it back up and I can’t find anything that I think looks out of the ordinary.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Bryant Kintner - 返信

I bought a replacement display assembly from ifixit because the glass was actually separating from the rest of the display assembly after my SE took a hard fall. The glass itself was still in one piece!

Fortunately, most of the replacement went without a hitch after following all directions in this guide (except the rubber band mount… I skipped that and used a hand to hold the screen up). The metal bracket covering the Touch ID sensor cable broke, but the cable itself still plugged in just fine and my Touch ID works as designed after replacement.

My only issue was that the bottom of the phone’s frame was bent by the headphone jack from the hard fall… and the glass wasn’t just sliding back in. Without an easy way to bend it back out, I just took some needlenoses to the bend and gave some rough yanks on it. The metal doesn’t look good, but the new screen assembly finally slid in and everything works wonderfully! Wish I had another camera to take a picture of my pliers job, but trust me when I say it’s minor. :)

theredguy25 - 返信

Fixed the iPhone SE LCD display and home button for my wife’s phone after the screen cracked. The guide and the parts from IFIXIT worked perfectly for me. The new display looks great, without any lines. Touch ID works just as well as before. Granted, it has been less than 24 hours since the fix. Will update as needed, but so far so good!

Peter - 返信

Great article, I used the IFIXIT repair set and it took me just 30 minutes to fix it without any hassle. Everything works like before now, but my display is clean like new again ;) First thing I did after the phone was working again was making a backup :)

rberg - 返信

Worked like a charm!

One Addition:

How is the display hold in place in the iPhone?

Maybe I overlooked it, it would be helpful to understand how the display holds in place, before the display is removed. There are litte tiny fishplates at the top of the display which fit into notches in the casing. The display then folds down like a lever, pivot point where the fishplates are and is fixed at the bottom with the pentalobe screws. The fishplates from my scattered display werde broken and flew around in the iPhone.

macmesch - 返信

Just want to say THANKS for this awesome guide. My iphone started to “unseal” at the top of the phone, allowing dust to enter the top of the case and obscure the front-facing (selfie) cam, and mess with the sensor. I ignored it for a while until the sensor became an issue as I had trouble disconnecting from phone calls when the sensor would act up. I was afraid I needed a new phone until finding this guide. It was probably less work and only a few more dollars to replace the entire front display than to replace only the front cam and sensor, and it took care of the scratches on the glass to boot. The guide is excellent! So again, kudos to the village here at ifixit.

Daniel - 返信

Completed last evening with the screen from ifixit. Procedure worked exactly and was successful! Only comment; maybe a little detail on how to align the top and hinge down to close the phone as final step.

Thank you! Tim

Timothy Metcalfe - 返信

Everything went just fine, thanks for the guide. I have had to transfer the camera, earpiece and sensor too, only a few more steps. The new display seems to work just fine, although I need to make some testing. One thing I wasn't expecting was that the phone seems to have been reset to factory settings. I don't know why this has happened and how to recover all the data from before the old display has stopped working. Is it only me? Any advice? Cheers!

Attila Simon - 返信

Perfect fix - thank you for providing this resource!!

Sam Gerlitz - 返信

First try at replacing my SE screen , but the replacement has 2 cables at the top while my old screen has 3. It was the correct screen for my model, so I tried it anyway. Got it powered back up, but now the touchscreen doesn’t work! I’m assuming it’s because of that missing cable? The phone even had a message on the screen telling me that the touchscreen is not functional. Also, I see no instructions on moving the camera to the new screen. What do I need to do?

nancis_creative_castings - 返信

This guide needs better photos with adequate lighting and more closeups after initial photos, and the spudger is the same black color as the materials you’re reaching for so it is difficult to see clearly what you are doing. There is so much else wrong with this that I’m not wasting my time correcting it. Obviously, if Ifixit wanted to improve this they would. I won’t be using your guides or replacement screens any time soon. Also, the cable on the SE display I received has shmutz on it—and I can’t attach a photo or I would. I really wanted to keep the cable I have and now wonder about the quality of the display unit itself as the original cables were A) clean and B) heavier weight be far than the cheap replacements I paid Ifixit for. Never again!

Jennifer Payne - 返信

I did it. Now my power button (the one for on/off/lock screen) is without function. The cable for the power button is the same as the one for the mute and volume buttons. The other buttons work.

I have no idea what i can check, because i think i did not touch any power button related parts during this display repair. Can anyone help?

DerZyklop - 返信

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