はじめに
iPhone 8 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリを交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください。充電と接続に関する障害が解決できます。
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ホームボタンのすぐ上にあるフロントパネルの下半分に吸盤を取り付けます。
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ディスプレイのひび割れの程度が広範囲に渡る場合は、透明な梱包用テープを表面に貼ると、吸盤カップが装着しやすくなります。吸盤カップの代用として、頑丈なガムテープを使うこともできます。それでも上手く装着できない場合は、吸盤カップに強力ボンドをつけて壊れたスクリーンの上で固めてください。
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
Kyle Luksa - 返信
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
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一定の力で吸盤カップを引き上げて、フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
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隙間に開口ピックまたは薄い開口ツールを挿入します。
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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開口ピックを左下からiPhoneの音量コントロールボタンとサイレントスイッチの方向にスライドさせて、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤を剥がします。
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ディスプレイの左上隅付近で停止します。
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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iPhoneの右下隅に開口ピックを再度差し込み、角を回ってiPhoneの右上にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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ディスプレイ下の開口ピックを左上の角からiPhoneの上端に沿ってスライドさせて、残りの接着剤を剥がします。
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
Gerdschi D - 返信
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本のページをめくるように、ディスプレイの左側を持ち上げてiPhoneを開きます。
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作業がしやすいように、iPhoneを開口をしたままディスプレイの後ろに衝立を置き、立てかけてください。
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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基板とディスプレイケーブル下側のブラケットを固定している次の長さの4本のプラスネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.3 mmネジ
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1本の1.4 mmネジ
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1本の2.7 mmネジ
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
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バッテリコネクタケーブルを基板から少し離して曲げます。アクシデントでケーブルがソケットに接触していまい、iPhoneの電源が入らないようにするためです。
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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スパッジャーの先端か爪を使用して、ディスプレイ下側にあるコネクタをソケットから外します。
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
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前の手順で外したコネクターのすぐ後ろにある、下から2番目のディスプレイケーブルの接続を外します。
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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フロントパネルのセンサーアセンブリコネクターとブラケットを固定している2本のtri-point Y000ネジを取り外します。
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１本の1.0mmネジ
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１本の1.2mmネジ
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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リアカメラモジュールのカバープレートを固定している2本のネジを外します。
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1.8 mmネジー1本
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2.7 mm (非鉄金属)スタンドオフネジー1本
Yeah, the flathead screw driver is not really a good option for the standoff screwdriver bit. I managed to remove the standoff screws easily enough, but replacing them with the flathead was laborious.
andystills - 返信
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Taptic Engineの隣に付けられたL字ブラケットを固定している3本のネジを取り出します。
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1.3 mm Y000ネジー1本
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2.6 mmプラスネジー1本
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3.5 mmプラスネジー1本
De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.
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開口ピックを使って、スピーカーの表面に付けられたアンテナフレックスケーブルの接着部分を丁寧に剥がします。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、Lightningポートの隣にあるソケットからアンテナフレックスケーブルの反対側の先端を外します。
I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.
Dan Putnam - 返信
I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.
Lucas -
I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.
The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.
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Wi-Fiダイバーシティアンテナを取り出します。
This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.
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Taptic Engineを固定している3本のネジを外します。
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1.5 mmプラスネジー2本
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2.4 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからLightningコネクタアセンブリのフレックスケーブルの接続を外します。
I did this repair and I followed it too a T, but when I reassembled, the flex cable for the Lightning connector assembly keeps popping out. Ive replaced it twice and followed your guide exactly. No mistakes. But when I go to clip it back in, it always does that….
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ロジックボードに固定された5本のネジを外します。
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1.8 mmプラスネジー2本
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2.3 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
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2.4 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
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2.7 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
My repair kit from iFixit included a standoff screwdriver bit. I do not recommend trying this without one.
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iPhoneの幅に合わせてピックをスライドさせて、Lightning コネクタの残りの部分をすべてリアケースから解放します。
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Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Correctly positions the new Lightning connector assembly is very important! I found that event the slightest misalignment will prevent you from easily reconnecting the flex cable to the logic board. I had to remove the logic board and peel back some of the new adhesive on my replacement Lightning connector a few times in order to get the proper alignment. I found it useful to plug in the flex cable prior to mounting the logic board so that you have at some leeway when lining up the connectors.
Make sure to save the rubber gasket for the lightning connector as my kit did not come with a replacement. The kit also included replacement screens for the microphones but no instructions or labelled parts so you’ll have to use your best guess as to how to install them. Make sure to take pictures of the old screens before you pull them out and use those pics as reference.
交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを装着する前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプにはAnswers communityを参照してください。
交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを装着する前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプにはAnswers communityを参照してください。
65 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
15 件のコメント
40 minutes seems crazy fast for this repair. If anyone can do this entire repair from beginning to end utilizing these steps in 40 minutes… they should spend a day or two practicing the Rubik’s cube and go smash the world record.
The guide helped me accomplish the repair. So, for that, thank you very much.
andystills - 返信
Very well done and easy to follow. Great piece of work and I appreciate the time spent putting it all together.
Have repaired 2 other iPhones, 6 and 6S, using the guides found here. When confronted with the iPhone 8 plus repair this is the site I came to.
Again, very well done indeed.
Kudos
Where dose one find a new gasket for the lighting cable?
You will not find a more comprehensive or thorough or accurate guide to dismantling and replacing the charging port on an iPhone 8 Plus than this. Awesome guide, thanks for your attention to detail and thoroughness! Bravo!
Will White - 返信
Thank you very much for the very detailed repair instructions. My microphone wasn’t working properly and I was able to get it fixed for just $12! (got the replacement from eBay)
Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Mi correggo, ho problemi solo durante le chiamate, se uso l’app note vocali o whatsapp o faccio video con entrambe le fotocamere non ho problemi
Why is removing the camera and antenna necessary for replacing the lightning port?
nvrm i see why
Buon pomeriggio, devo fare i complimenti al sito per come e dettagliato ogni guida e riparazione. adesso ho finito di riparare un iphone 8 plus e va una bomba
Wish I had been told I would need a standoff screwdriver before I was halfway into taking the thing apart…
This was not a quick job. It took me far longer than expected because the sound did not work the first time that I re-assembled it. I took the phone back apart far enough to remove the speaker and clean the contacts. On re-assembly, it would not boot cleanly. It continuously rebooted until I had to restore to factory settings and reload from save.
Make sure you have a current save _before_ you do this repair.
I want to let everyone know that it is absolutely unnecessary to remove the entire logic board when doing this repair. You only need to remove the SIM holder and the the 2 (or 3 on XR) logic board screws (2 saddle screws and 1 Phillips on XR, 2 saddles on 7/8 series) that hold the logic board down. Once those are removed, you can gently lift the lower end of the logic board up enough to slide the portion of the dock flex that is under the logic board out from under the logic board. A few things to keep in mind when removing the existing port are that once all screws and brackets and such are taken off, you need to start the pulling up and removal of the old charging port flex starting from the very bottom first, I start with the with the 2 microphones and then the lightning port itself. As you free the existing port from the bottom upwards, when you peel up the flex where it is held down with adhesive nearing the logic board, it will then simply slide out from under the logic board.
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Ran out of characters!..When you go to install the new port, you must START the process by sliding the new flex cable back up underneath the logic board first (you may need to hold the battery flex cable out of the way a bit and pre bend the new ports flex cable at the connector so that it will slide up easily) and then attach the new flex cable to the connector on the logic board FIRST before you do any other screw or adhesive installations. This way you don't end up struggling to try to get the connector to re-connect to the logic board at the end. If you don't do it this way and you start re-installing the new port from the bottom without pre-connecting it to the logic board, any slight misalignment may cause the connector to not line up properly when you go to connect it to the logic board. I feel on any iPhone component removal/replacement, the less extra parts and connectors you have to touch, pry on, disconnect and/or remove and then reconnect, the better. Good luck all! - Chad from GURUmicro.
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This was a very helpful guide and the photos were really well done. A few pointers for newbies to iPhone repair like myself.
1) The base install (no mesh screen replacements near the microphones) is about 3 hours. Another 45 minutes or so for the mesh screens as there were no instructions.
2) There were no instructions on how to start the phone back up so here is what happened to me. After plugging everything back in (but the phone screen still physically separated from the phone body) I could not start the phone from the battery despite it having about a 30% charge. I ended up taking the phone apart 2 times checking all the connections but couldn’t find a faulty one. In this process I ended up snapping a part related to the antenna off of the PCB (Step 36, see comment above). What ended up working was plugging the phone into a fast charger and waiting about 5 minutes. I wasn’t able to start it after 1 minute and was worried, but after 5 minutes it booted up normally and everything is fine.
Does this remove any functionality with the phone? I know apple is very difficult with the “right to repair”. At least with replacing the home button and battery, fingerprint and battery health functionality is removed. Does something similar happen with this?
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - 返信
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - 返信
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -