難易度
普通
手順
23
所要時間
30分 - 2時間
- ペンタローブネジ 手順1
- ディスプレイ表面のテーピング 手順1
- 開口方法 9手順
- バッテリーの接続解除 2手順
- ディスプレイアセンブリ 5手順
- ホーム/Touch IDセンサー 5手順
おすすめのガイド
このガイドはiFixitスタッフによって太鼓判が押されています。
はじめに
iPhone 8のスクリーンを交換する方法を学べます。このパーツにはフロントカメラ、センサアセンブリとEMIシールドが既に搭載されています。これで修理がより簡単に済みます。
必要な作業は、Touch ID(指紋認証スキャン用)を保つ為、古いスクリーンを取り出して、ホームボタンを新しいスクリーンに取り付けることです。
ご注意: スクリーンの交換後、iPhoneの明るさ自動調節機能が反応しない場合は、お持ちのiPhoneがiOS 12にアップデートされているか確認してください。スクリーンを交換した後はTrue Toneは機能しません。オリジナルのAppleスクリーンを再装着した後も同様です。
ビデオの概要
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ディスプレイのガラスにひびが入っている場合は、作業中ひびが拡大し、怪我をしないようにガラス表面をテーピングします。
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透明の梱包用テープをiPhoneのディスプレイ全体に二重にして貼ってください。
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次の手順で壊れたガラスに吸盤カップが装着できない場合は、より強力なテープ(ダクトテープなど)を折り曲げて取手を作り、ディスプレイを引っ張り持ち上げます。
Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.
Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.
Une bande bien positionnée suffit.
I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.
I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.
This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.
thank you!!!!!
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iPhoneの下端を加熱すると、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、開きやすくなります。
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ヘアドライヤーを使用するか、iOpenerを準備し、ディスプレイ裏側の接着剤を柔らかくするために、iPhone下部端に約90秒間あてます。
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Jiří Sítko - 返信
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ホームボタンのすぐ上にあるフロントパネルの下半分に吸盤を取り付けます。
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
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一定の力で吸盤カップを引き上げて、フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
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隙間に開口ピックを挿入します。
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
Brian Gill - 返信
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本のページをめくるように、ディスプレイの左側を持ち上げてiPhoneを開きます。
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作業がしやすいように、iPhoneを開口をしたままディスプレイの後ろに衝立を置き、立てかけてください。
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下側にあるディスプレイケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードに固定している4本のプラスネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.3 mmネジ
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2本の2.8 mmネジ
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ブラケットを取り外します。
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
Mark Ordaz - 返信
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
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バッテリコネクタケーブルを基板から少し離して曲げます。アクシデントでケーブルがソケットに接触していまい、iPhoneの電源が入らないようにするためです。
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
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フロントパネルのセンサーアセンブリコネクターとブラケットを固定している3本の1.3 mmプラスねじを取り外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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ディスプレイアセンブリを取り外します。
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
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ホーム/Touch ID センサー上のブラケットから次のY000ネジを4本外します。
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1.2 mmネジー1本
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1.3 mmネジー3本
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ブラケットを外します。
Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000
If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...
Andy Knapp - 返信
Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.
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開口ツールを使用して、ホームボタンケーブルのソケットからホームボタンケーブルコネクターの左側先端を持ち上げて接続を外します。
To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.
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ディスプレイアセンブリを裏返します。ヘアドライヤーを使うかiOpenerの準備をして、ディスプレイの下半分を約90秒温めて、接着剤を柔らかくします。
The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
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ホーム/Touch IDセンサーアセンブリをディスプレイ前面から持ち上げて取り外してください。
Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?
Hi Todd!
I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、 接着ストリップを再装着して、このガイドを逆の順番に行ってください。
不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。
修理はうまくいきましたか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプはiPhone 8のアンサーコミュニティ を参照してください。もしくは新しいデバイスを探している場合、私たちの友達である Backmarketが整備済みiPhone 8を販売しています！
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、 接着ストリップを再装着して、このガイドを逆の順番に行ってください。
不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。
修理はうまくいきましたか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプはiPhone 8のアンサーコミュニティ を参照してください。もしくは新しいデバイスを探している場合、私たちの友達である Backmarketが整備済みiPhone 8を販売しています！
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26 件のコメント
This guide assumes you’re replacing the entire display assembly, with those parts included. If you bought a bare display then yes, you’ll have to transfer those additional components over, and that’s beyond the scope of this guide—although as mentioned in the introduction, we’re working on adding guides for those additional components as well.
wait a second… Are you saying that when we change the screen it is also necessary to change the front camera?
@eitantonius A lot of new screens come with a replacement front camera already installed. They cost a bit more, but make the job easier. You can save a few bucks if you buy a stripped-down display, but you’ll need to go through some additional steps to transfer the original front camera (and a few other components) from your broken screen to the new one.
I cracked the camera glass (housing) on the back of the phone. Is it possible to replace without replacing the entire back of the phone/case?
yes, but it is almost impossible. it involves removing the actual glass from the back housing, and the entire backside has a strong adhesive. Its recommended not to do that as it can result in either cutting yourself, or damaging the wireless charging coil thats found behind the glass.
Is there any update on the ambient light sensor yet? Is it working with the new beta version of IOS12? I would be delighted to hear about it.
Auto Brightness works on all versions of iOS 12 that we’ve tried. True Tone does not. However, if you have your original display, there’s a fairly inexpensive (~$75 USD) device that can clone the data from the original display to the new one and restore True Tone. They’ve been around for a while and most repair shops should have one by now.
any idea when the guide for full replacement will be available?
Replaced screen a success now it is stuck on a boot loop….. help please.
Boot loop can be caused by bad proximity sensor, which is moved to the new screen from the old. Or if you got one that came with it, it may be defective.
So, the original screen has these three tabs that slide in the recesses in the top of the phone case, all your pictures show only the aftermarket screens with two aluminum rectangulars (at the top of the screen). Isn’t that going to possibly cause the screen to pop out eventually (if the adhesive fails for say) since there is nothing physically holding it in place?
There are no aftermarket parts shown in this guide—that’s an original Apple display on a brand-new iPhone. You might be thinking of a different model? But to answer your question, yes, if the clips aren’t secured correctly then there’s a chance of the screen coming loose at the top.
Will Touch ID work after the repair? That is my only concern about the repair.
As stated at the top, it will work fine provided you are careful to transfer the original home button to your new screen, without damaging it.
Why is the Lower Display Cable Bracket on the parts list?
Hi Michael! The lower cable bracket is accessible during this guide and has no specific guide of its own. If you were replacing that component you would need to use this guide. The bracket is not required for a screen replacement or subsequent replacement guide.
Used the iFixit screen replacement parts and this guide. Guide was spot on and replacement screen weeks perfectly! Thanks for the guide!
Brian Gill - 返信
Uno de los conectores a presión al parecer se me ensucio o doblo, por no hacer presión a los lados como aconsejan. que debo hacer
One of the pressure connectors seems to get dirty or dommed, for not pressing the sides as advised. I have to do
There should be an advisory to be careful when unscrewing the very first screws—mine stripped very quickly and easily. One failed attempt and getting that screw out is nearly impossible.
Hello, is the replacement camera the same quality as the original? And if not, would it be difficult to get this kit and swap my original camera over? Thank you.
I did change my display but did not disconnect the battery while doing it. Now the microphone does not work anymore. Did I connect something wrong or did I damage the mic with the connected battery? (A different “how to video” of youtube does not disconnect the battery :( )
My screen is cracked and chipping away in places. It is leaking black ink over most of the top left corner of the screen. Would this repair be able to fix that?
Hi Greyson,
Yes, this repair will make the screen new again! If this damage is due to a serious drop, you may need to fix some other things—the frame may be slightly warped, or other components may be damaged.
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - 返信