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はじめに

Learn how to replace your iPhone 7 screen. This guide is meant to be used with complete screen replacement parts only. The part should come with the front assembly, earpiece speaker, and EMI shield already installed, making for an easier repair.

All you need to do is remove the old screen and transfer the home button to the new screen, in order for Touch ID to function.

ビデオの概要

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - 返信

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - 返信

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - 返信

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - 返信

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - 返信

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 返信

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - 返信

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - 返信

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - 返信

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - 返信

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 - 返信

  3. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - 返信

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - 返信

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - 返信

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - 返信

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - 返信

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - 返信

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - 返信

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - 返信

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - 返信

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - 返信

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - 返信

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - 返信

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - 返信

  4. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - 返信

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - 返信

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - 返信

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - 返信

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - 返信

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - 返信

  5. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - 返信

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - 返信

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - 返信

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - 返信

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - 返信

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - 返信

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - 返信

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - 返信

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - 返信

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - 返信

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - 返信

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - 返信

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - 返信

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - 返信

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - 返信

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - 返信

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - 返信

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - 返信

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - 返信

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - 返信

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - 返信

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - 返信

  6. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - 返信

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - 返信

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - 返信

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - 返信

  7. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - 返信

  8. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - 返信

  9. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - 返信

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - 返信

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - 返信

  10. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  11. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - 返信

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  12. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - 返信

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - 返信

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - 返信

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - 返信

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - 返信

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - 返信

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - 返信

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - 返信

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - 返信

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - 返信

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - 返信

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - 返信

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - 返信

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - 返信

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - 返信

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - 返信

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - 返信

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - 返信

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - 返信

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - 返信

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - 返信

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - 返信

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - 返信

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - 返信

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - 返信

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - 返信

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - 返信

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - 返信

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - 返信

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - 返信

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - 返信

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - 返信

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - 返信

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - 返信

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - 返信

  13. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - 返信

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - 返信

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - 返信

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

  14. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - 返信

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - 返信

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - 返信

  15. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhoneディスプレイ用接着剤の交換

    minimalist - 返信

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - 返信

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - 返信

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - 返信

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - 返信

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - 返信

  16. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - 返信

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - 返信

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - 返信

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - 返信

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - 返信

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - 返信

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - 返信

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - 返信

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - 返信

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - 返信

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - 返信

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - 返信

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - 返信

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - 返信

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - 返信

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - 返信

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 返信

  17. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - 返信

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - 返信

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - 返信

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - 返信

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - 返信

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - 返信

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - 返信

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.

    Jason Glenn -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - 返信

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - 返信

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - 返信

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - 返信

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - 返信

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - 返信

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - 返信

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - 返信

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - 返信

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - 返信

    This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it

    Paul -

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - 返信

    over the bracket

    David Proudman -

    my home button does not work anymore! do you know why?

    josé - 返信

    I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.

    Jim Pflasterer - 返信

    I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(

    Brendon Parker - 返信

    I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!

    1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.

    2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.

    3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to

    the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    silas - 返信

    Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.

    David Proudman - 返信

    Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone

    David Proudman -

    I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.

    jack jones - 返信

    I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.

    Nicole Crome - 返信

    There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.

    MajorCouillon - 返信

  20. Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.
    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

  21. Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - 返信

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - 返信

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - 返信

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - 返信

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - 返信

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - 返信

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - 返信

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - 返信

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - 返信

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    https://youtu.be/An9kUJshRjA

    Gina Torres - 返信

    Thank you so much!

    Jakob Kloppenborg -

    That’s a very good view. Thank you!

    johanbogg -

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?

    dima shynin - 返信

    I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?

    Ben Carter - 返信

    I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.

    sschaffer - 返信

    any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?

    rwalz - 返信

    Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough

    rwalz -

  22. Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable. It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.
    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - 返信

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - 返信

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.

    Benji - 返信

  23. Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - 返信

    A hair dryer works well too. 2mins is all you need

    Mr Tegs - 返信

  24. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - 返信

    Thanks for the tip! worked great!

    Isaac Ham -

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - 返信

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,

    I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.

    Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).

    Robert -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - 返信

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - 返信

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - 返信

    The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.

    markpetereit -

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - 返信

    I had to use the iOpener tool twice before the adhesive was soft enough to remove the cable with the pick.

    sschaffer - 返信

    How do I get the home button out? I got the ribbon up.. just not sure how the button comes out

    Ash - 返信

    Hi, i replaced the screen and home button, the home button was a bit difficult. When i turn on the Phone, touch id works fine but not home button function. Any idea ?

    Jim - 返信

    More precisely, i was wondering if the home button could not work while touch idea does…

    Jim -

    Wow…I did a lot of praying during this step.

    tomnape - 返信

    This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.

    ryan pouliot - 返信

  25. Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    • Follow this guide to install replacement display adhesive on your screen.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - 返信

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - 返信

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - 返信

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - 返信

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - 返信

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - 返信

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - 返信

    This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.

    Ben Carter -

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - 返信

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019

    Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.

    Jeff Steffens -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...

    Andre LeBlanc - 返信

    Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.

    Ben Carter -

    I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.

    sschaffer -

    If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

    nigel - 返信

    WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.

    The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.

    Nicholas Tenney - 返信

    The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.

    Eric R Deshields - 返信

    I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.

    If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.

    See Pressure spot on iPhone after screen replacement..

    Neil Wilson - 返信

    Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.

    jack jones - 返信

    I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.

    Cramps Delight - 返信

    The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!

    Good Luck all!!!

    jenn ross - 返信

    I don't understand whether I need to glue the ribbon back down on the new screen. I have not been sent any adhesive for it. The guide mentions replacing adhesive for the screen, but do you mean the home button ribbon itself? If so, what should I use?

    charlie B - 返信

    I can’t get the home button to stay in place when reataching it to the phone. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

    johanbogg - 返信

    The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.

    Mike K - 返信

    So I put the home button onto my new screen and the touch ID works however, when you press down on the button to return home for example, it doesn’t work. Any ideas what might be causing this? I made sure not to tighten the screws too much when reinstalling.

    Hayden - 返信

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 7 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

713 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Evan Noronha

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95 件のコメント

When putting the screen back on will the device loose it's water-resistant properties?

Joseph - 返信

Wondering this too.

Draydan -

It will for sure lose it's water-resistant properties. So, please replace the water-resistant adhesive before assembly.

Jojo -

Yes, but you can buy a new replacement seal for a few bucks. However, it is extremely thin and very sticky so its almost impossible to do it right the first time (imagine placing a needle thin sized rubber band covered in glue around the tiny ledge you phone screen sits on). I would suggest you buy two because it is likely you’ll need a second shot at it…because if any part gets misplaced and sticks to the wrong spot, it will not come off, and that “sticky rubber band” turns into this horrible stringy tar/chewing gum ring that is impossible to manipulate…fair warning… it will most likely be pretty water resistant even if you don’t add a new seal to it… its not a waterproof phone in the first place :)

jaicdc -

Yes it will lose the water-resistant abilities. It is very hard to seal it back to it's original state.

Alec - 返信

Is there any supplier that sells the original adhesive for the edge of the phone so we can make it better? Or do we have to just wing it with some cut double sided tape etc?

Grant Ormsby - 返信

The short answer is yes, there are suppliers who carry the adhesive. It can be difficult to obtain and may be tempting to go for a replacement from eBay or somewhere similar, but I advise to steer clear of unverified vendors. If you can get one from iFixit, I strongly recommend that you use them - especially if you're only purchasing one for a DIY project. If iFixit doesn't have them, you can get these from Union Repair as one option. http://www.unionrepair.com/replacement-f...

Joshua -

We do offer the replacement adhesive if you need it—I wouldn't recommend trying to wing it. By the way, the phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive (it just won't be as waterproof), so if you don't have the adhesive on hand, it's perfectly okay to finish your repair and close up your iPhone, and then replace the adhesive at a later date.

Jeff Suovanen -

The adhesive is sold here but its sold out, you can find it on eBay tho

Hernandez5827 - 返信

I am curious about the home button transfer? transfer from old cracked to new screen and finger print will work? also I have read online forums using 3rd party screens for gens i6/i6s/i7 and doing an iOS update will brick and or make the finger print scanner unusable? Can anyone confirm?

Thanks.

hawaii4vr - 返信

The issue with the Home Button not functioning and "bricking" the device was not from 3rd party displays. It was from shops not transferring the Home Button to the new assembly. During restore or update the device would deliver Error 53. Apple has since modified iOS to not do this, so it is no longer the concern that it was. As long as there is not anything wrong with your Home Button, it will be fully functional on your device after the new display is installed.

Joshua -

Keep in mind that while you are safe using third party screens, using a non-original home button will result in losing TouchID functionality.

Evan Noronha -

That home button cable is a bit tricky. I came at it from the top side of the home button with the pointy end of my spudger, and managed to pull up all of the adhesive. otherwise, this was a pretty straight forward swap.

Bradley Breedlove - 返信

Anybody having issues with the replacemnt screen flex putting pressure on back of the lcd when its put back together? I don't know if its a defect because its my first time!

Astralzombie - 返信

Thats quite easy. Thats the ‘block’ on the bottom left of the screen. Make sure it aligns nicely.

Beerbo -

This guide feels incomplete without the disassembly of the smaller parts on the display assembly.

Sverre Siggerud - 返信

I agree since these guides are intended for newer repair techs or DIY people that should have been added in

Don -

I agree with @Sverre Siggerud

gra_allax -

I agree it's missing a large portion of the work

Gaspard Leon -

tbh this is one of the worst guides on here. It goes about 30% of the way into the whole job. No instructions an removing backplate/shield, camera assembly or home button which are by far the trickier parts of this job. 4/10 could do much better!

gra_allax - 返信

There are other guides that gives the directions on removing the other parts ..you just have to find the guide for each part ...the guide for removing shield plate pretty much covers it all

Jaye -

exactly! was in the middle of the job when realised the the guide was incomplete, had to guess by myself

victor maia -

I’m sorry to hear that! From what it sounds, your replacement part is actually the LCD and digitizer, not the complete screen, which is listed in the parts section. The screen part comes with everything pre-installed for easy replacement, while the LCD and digitizer comes with nothing installed and requires much more disassembly.

Arthur Shi -

I replaced the screen of iPhone 7 , after using couple of hours its opening & closing apps by itself .i restore it still didn't work if I restart it will work couple of hours then start again same issue .

Malik Adam - 返信

Tip for anyone who is moving the home button to a replacement screen. The cable is stuck on the screen pretty good with adhesive, I found that an easy way to get it off is to use a very very small flathead screwdriver (I used the smallest one in the iFixit tool kit) and carefully pry the cable off starting where the little plastic pin pokes through the hole in the cable. Came right off and the adhesive was still stuck to the cable. Just don't puncture the cable.

Evan Smith - 返信

STEP 9: WARNING IS STUPID.

WHO CARES if you break the plastic clips? You're replacing the screen which has NEW plastic clips.

STEP 14. DO NOT lay it down like an open book. The cables are likely to tear if you do this because they are very short and snug. I recommend placing a heavy object behind the screen to keep it propped up/open like a laptop screen.

STEP 15. CLEARLY IT IS NOT laying down like an open book. In fact not until step 19 does it look like it's laying flat like an open book.

To the above comments. Send it to Apple if you want the WATERPROOFING to stay intact. Of course you'll likely get a refurbished phone in return. Here's a novel idea. Don't get your phone (or any other electronics for that matter) wet.

paul bunions - 返信

Thanks for the info. I was just thinking about Step 14 and if the cables would be long (or strong) enough. You answered my question ;-)

Clems -

You're right that broken clips might not matter if you're just replacing the screen—however, the warning in step 9 is necessary because this step (opening the phone) is a prerequisite for all iPhone repairs (not just the screen). I agree with you about the cables being too short in some cases to lay the display flat, and I've deleted the note about laying it down like an open book. Thanks for your comments!

Jeff Suovanen -

http://www.unionrepair.com/replacement-f...

@joshua, thanks for the link, that i much cheaper then in the Netherlands.

Btw how is the quality of the lcd screens for example?

Ron Schuts - 返信

To whom ever posted this tutorial,

I think you explained well.Some people always have some type of negative feedback. There are other tutorials for removing the shield and etc. Just do a little research people. Also if warnings are put in place you best believe someone made that mistake. If you all have a problem with his tutorial you all go out your way and make one. Keep up the good work!

Kaila Freeman - 返信

When I took off the home button, a small black square rubber piece fell out. while prying off the cable.

Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go when I put the home button back on.

Joe in PA - 返信

That is the button seal. Goes between the front screen and the button.

122654 -

You guys need to provide some instruction on the removal of the home button, its changed since the older phones.

Andrew spoelstra - 返信

I work in a phone repair shop. We have had an on/ off problem for the 7/7+. Sometimes if you unplug the camera from the board and attach it to the new screen then back to the board it will boot loop. So we've taken the precaution to not unplug it. Do you know if this is a software or hardware problem? If so, which part of the software/hardware should we be more careful about when repairing?

The only way to stop the boot loop is to unplug the FF camera which puts the customer out of a selfie camera and makes the repair redundant.

Thanks

Marsha Brady - 返信

I am experiencing this right now. I am currently trying to restore the phone for like the dozenth time when I came across this. As soon as it’s done this time I’m going to try unclipping the front camera assembly. Have you tried getting the phone out of the boot loop and then clipping the earpiece assembly in while it’s on the home screen? I know we aren’t supposed to be playing with the innards while its on, but desperate times…

Tom Kavarnic -

Sometimes--- there is a pressure point underneath the LCD on the right side of the screen when closing the iPhone 7 (where the bracket covers the cables under the LCD, not the proxy connector). It's been hit and miss. Some repairs can be done and there is no pressure point, then for others, it seems the chip is sitting on top of the metal bracket and causes a pressure point when closed. Has anyone else had this issue? What have you done to make sure it's not an issue 100% of the time?

aqnguyen87 - 返信

The pressure point is because the chip is moved a little bit upwards to the phone when changing to a new screen. Try to relocate the chip 0,5mm-1mm further down on the screen and this will fix the pressure point occurring when closing the screen to the phone!

Erling Andre Saethervik - 返信

please help

i have replaced the screen with another working screen and i opened the screen very slowly as i should without touching the right side cables of the screen than i removed the bracket from the bottom of the lcd connectors and removed the battery connector first than the lcd connectors and than removed the top connector by the camera…the problem is im having a black screen i reconnected the old screen and now same issues…what did i do wrong and how to fix this black screen…what could have i done…if i removed the battery connectors first….

sam - 返信

Pk so i replaced and the screen and now working fine..but fromt camera does notvwant to work even after i changed thefkex cable…no bent no issues…what is the issue…i did reset still no front camera i did reboot power+volume down still same issue what did i miss??

sam - 返信

What is the function of the 1.1 mm screw located in the plate securing the touch I/D sensor in position, the screw is located directly in the centre of the touch I/D sensor.

costadelsol

Neil Rodgers - 返信

It holds the touchid sensor in place. Duh :p

Beerbo -

How To fix black screen when I touch home button screen will not light up and phone tells me to enter password

jordansm80 - 返信

You really should have included the camera as well,

gocaps25 - 返信

I am having issues with the home button swap.

I have replaced a damage screen from another damaged iPhone.

One iPhone had hardware issues that made the phone basically useless (no service, ever, could not restore firmware from iTunes) this device had a perfect screen.

The other iPhone had a shattered screen.

So I am replacing the shattered screen with the screen from the other iPhone, and swapped the home buttons.

The phone with the now new (uncracked) screen doesn't recognize the home button at all. Nor does it tell me that I have the wrong home button when I purposely connect the wrong home button.

I took the same home button and put it with the other iPhone and the iPhone rejects it (point is, it detects the home button). The other iPhone doesn't even detect it.

cadearmstrong - 返信

Everything went well and smooth on installing screen, but when I started testing my iPhone it seems it has some sort of interference when using the front and rear recording camera. All my recordings come out with a pretty loud static and clicking noise on the recording . Is it possible that the screen is interfering with my Front and rear camera mic camera? Can someone help me out please?

lmatiasjr - 返信

Worked really well, make sure that you really heat up the home button adhesive, if you lose 1 or 2 screws per bracket, it’ll still be ok BTW

Coolinee Kerman - 返信

Bought a replacement kit that not only left out the splunger, but gave my three unmarked screwdrivers. (all I needed was the pentalum ) stripped the screws, not even super glue could get them out. Utter failure .

MajorCouillon - 返信

Wanted to reply to my own text.My failed attempt had nothing to do with these in-depth directions , it had to do with my failure to purchase tools from the correct company.this sight has helped me repair my ps3 and offered countless other insights. I was just in one of those moods I’m sure most of us can relate to. Oh, and , excuse me while I do this….. AAAPPPPLLE!! Grrr

MajorCouillon -

Does automatic brightness work for you after replacing the screen with the iFixit part? Mine was working properly with the original screen, but auto-brightness doesn’t seem to work with the iFixit replacement.

AlexVaq - 返信

Hey i tryed to fix my iphone 7 which had screen brokedown with a collision i think it can b a issue of some loose connection or someting boke out the phone is not responding to anything no display so vibration i tried to change it for too long i din’t even heat up what can b the issue will ut work agian plz reply im a student and cant aford to buy new phone or waste money on old one i alredy got its screen replaced but its noe working yet plz… help me out with a professional advice it will be gratefully

Thank you

jashandeep.0052@yahoo.com

Jashandeep - 返信

Salve ,

mi spiegate perché quando sostituisco il gruppo display e lo vado a rimontare mi rimane sollevato sulla parte dei flat?

è come se non entrasse, eppure sembra tutto ok e ben posizionato.

Grazie anticipatamente della risposta e complimenti per la guida.

Riccardo Mazzoni - 返信

Hi,

I swapped a broken Iphone 7 screen and everything seemed to work fine even fingerprint.. But the front camera did not work after the swap, so i installed a new one and a battery, and now camera still doesnt work, and there is a vertical black line in the screen. Someone knows what went wrong?

Jonez - 返信

I have a strange problem. i had a iphone 7 with the audio ic problem, so got another working one with a cracked screen. I have just switched the board and button from the good one to the broken audio ic one. now fingerprint ID works fine, but i am getting no haptic at all from the button. the phone works fine. both phones had button haptic before the swap.

sam caspian - 返信

sorted it, tried reconnecting the cables, no joy. in the end i swapped over the taptic motor, and its fine now. I also swapped out them tri screws for normal + ones from all my spare parts.

sam caspian -

Thank you!, Evan Noronha (and 8 other contributors). Using this guide, I was able to disassemble and assemble back the screen. I will keep the forum posted for any other problems.

Hariharan Hariharasubramanian - 返信

If you tore the top ribbon cable for the camera and what not, can you stil replace the screen and it work?

Kate Godfrey - 返信

Why are all of these “replacement” guides actually just disassembly guides? You always cut the instructions off halfway. This doesn’t show anyone how to replace anything, just how to remove the screen and other connected components. How much extra effort would it actually be for you to include the rest of the instructions? Like 5 more photos per guide?

Josh O'Brien - 返信

I believe it’s possible to create your own iFixit guides.

I’ve never had an issue with this. I mean sure it’d be nice, but for such a prolific and constantly updated resource, I don’t see the point in complaining too much about it. I’ve never felt like they don’t give me enough to complete a repair.

Sam -

In terms of this particular guide, the only thing missing in my opinion is removing the front sensor flex cable, earpiece speaker and backplate, but since many displays come with those parts attached I can understand the exclusion. At the end of the day, a disassembly guide is all one really needs for these repairs since you can follow the instructions backwards to install the new part once the broken part is disassembled, so adding steps for that seems somewhat redundant.

Sam -

Is it possible to replace the display without the adhesive? Or is it absolutely necessary?

Bryan Young - 返信

You can it just won’t have the water resistant seal that the adhesive provides

jonathan whittington -

A tiny drop of super glue holds the plastic camera holder in place

Paul O'Donohoe - 返信

Anyone found a way of getting the 3 1.2mm screws out? (step 13) They just won’t budge, and I think I’ve stripped the heads… What now?

Stephen Babbage - 返信

Excellent guide. Thank you very much

Larry Welch - 返信

I replaced the screen using this guide, however now Apple Pay doesn't work. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a fix?

Dave - 返信

I’ve just replace my Girlfriends iPhone7 screen and now she doesn’t have an screen rotation. I may have got some of the screws mixed up. I read somewhere about a magnetic screw in the wrong place can cause this. Does anyone know which screw I might have got wrong?

Mike - 返信

I just replaced my screen with an original one from an board fried iPhone. Now when on it says it won’t recognize the touch id and directly shows on screen the white button. I have checked twice and no clue why. Any help?

Juan Herrera - 返信

Are y’all sure this fix guide is for the iPhone 7 because the screen in this guide has 3 ribbon cables 2 at the bottom and 1 at the top but the one I ordered only has 2 both being at the bottom so I thought they sent me the wrong one so I sent it back and ordered one from someone else and it had only 2 both being at the bottom so I’ve come to a conclusion that this guide is incorrect

jonathan whittington - 返信

Nevermind I see it doesn’t have the front facing camera preinstalled

jonathan whittington -

The screen you ordered is a screen without the camera and the speaker. The third cable that you are looking for is that of the camera and speaker, which will need to be transferred from the original screen as well as the shield.

yvaneck - 返信

I just ordered the correct one with the camera and speaker pre installed but what do you mean by the shield

jonathan whittington -

i just finished putting my new screen on but when i turned my phone on it said your home button may need service but i was sure not to over tighten the screws around the touch id sensor like it said not to… what do i do now???

awhitt23 - 返信

Took my time with this one and the odds were in my favor….Nailed this slightly novice repair!!!!However I could have used the precut waterproof gasket ifix offers instead of the roll type ….

Bryant Trambaugh - 返信

complete thanks to the cool ones at ifix…thanks yall

Bryant Trambaugh - 返信

What exactly is meant by rocking the screen? I can’t lift this thing for the life of me.

Anthony - 返信

I’m having a problem with the home button not working after I replace the screen. I’ve never had this problem with the lower models before. If over tightening the screws is the problem, how tight do they need to be?

Carson - 返信

Salve vorrei un vostro aiuto, il tasto home (preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituto il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e l impronta viene letta senza problemi) il tasto invece no (il click per uscire dalle app per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie per l’aiuto!

bernabbo - 返信

excellent guide, took me 2 hours, not just one. Fortunately i followed all the picky advice (eg I wrote down and taped and labeled each screw to my notepad as I went). Would have benefited from magnifying glass - did take photos of screw driver tips with other phone and magnify picture as very difficult to see tri-lobe Y000 vs pentalobe (both tiny, not inter-changable).

After 2 focused hours phone looks and works like new, but expect it is now NOT water resistant at all.

Douglas Newberry - 返信

Hello everyone,

I did this fix on my iPhone7 and the whole process whent really well ! The previous screen were shattered and litterally unusable so I needed a new one. After replacing the screen and before sealing it, I tested it real quick and the screen were working like a charm (tested only on the emergency call keyboard on the unlock screen) so I decided that the test was sufficient to seal it.

But after sealing it, I decided to use it for real. To unlock it and configure it back to life (the shattered screen probably made me done weird stuff so the phone was blocked really hard), I needed to be connected to iTunes to restore it properly.

But here is where things went really bad : the phone is charging on a USB outlet but it’s not recognised at all when connected to a computer. So my phone is actually working but I cannot use it at all because I need to connect it to iTunes. This is bullshit !

Did I make an error whil reassembling it ? Has anyone had this problem also ?

Many thanks for your help !

Dr Mario - 返信

Really fun and easy!!!

Nico Lombard - 返信

The video is a con. There is no way it comes apart this easily and using metal tools WILL damage the paintwork or chip the fine edge to the glass.

Anatole Beams - 返信

Hi,

I forgot to put the protector in step 13 and 17 back, the iphone 7 is now sealed again. If i open it I will probably have to use new adhesive, which I don't have.

Phone seems to work.

Is this bad, will it overheat?

jonathanmmm - 返信

Le téléphone fonctionnera et il n’y a pas de risque de surchauffe, le seul risque survient lors d’un choc brutal ou de vibration répété qui peuvent débrancher les connecteurs. Il ne devrait donc pas y avoir de problème si vous en prenez soin.

Cajuteq -

Anybody had the issue after replacing the screen where the front camera will work for photos/video but not in FaceTime?! Really odd! Thanks

jameswhit - 返信

La nouvelle caméra n’est peux être pas du même modèle ou peut être FaceTime doit-il être réinstallé pour prendre en compte le changement, dur à dire…

Cajuteq -

I've done the repair but my screen is black can anyone help please

Bradley Graham - 返信

this guide is awesome!

Clyde Mengoli - 返信

Just did my 2nd replacement. The new seal around the edge isn’t too bad as long as you leave the smaller blue backing on, lay it over the back piece while making sure the edge of the film is just inside the metal rim of the phone. once its on, go around the edge with a spudger to seat the rubber against the metal. Then peel it slowly back… If the seal starts to come up, run the plastic over the film again pressing harder. As long as you’re careful it isn’t so bad, just slightly tedious.

Preston Conner - 返信

If I am fixing the screen and doing a charging port replacement. Would buying the charging port tool kit have the tools required for a screen replacement?

Samuel Pantoja - 返信

After replacing the battery in the iPhone 7, it popped up the window stating “Unable to activate Touch ID on this iPhone”. I thought I must have damaged the cabled to the screen and purchased this replacement assembly. However, after replacing and transferring the home button, I still get the same error. It’s not just touch ID, the home button itself does not register any touches. Does this mean the home button is toast? Without the home button, the phone is basically useless. I have double checked all the little cable connections and don’t see any problems. Any ideas?

Thanks

Peter Pappas - 返信

It’s a real PITA to line up the little casing at the back of the screen with the cavity it’s supposed to fit into inside the phone. It never lines up properly the first time and at that point the replacement waterproof seal around the screen gets ruined.

Sean Buckley - 返信

how can i tell if somebody changing the screen the cud of broken my iphone 7

Leza Jane - 返信

I’ve tried 3 or 4 aftermarket screens from different sources and the home button does not work on any of them. However when I put a cracked original apple screen back on it works fine. Is there some reprogramming step that I’m missing or am I just getting incredibly unlucky with my choose of screens…

grant_brennan - 返信

This is not a tutorial for replacing the screen as titled! It is simply instructions for replacing the display & digitizer. It does not include the disassembly of the components of the display assembly. I am very disappointed in iFixit for not providing the proper procedures for one of the most common repairs.

kevs - 返信

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