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iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換

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  1. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ペンタローブネジ: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • 作業を始める前に、iPhoneのバッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンのバッテリーは発火の原因となったり、穴が開いてしまった際は爆発する危険性があります。

    • 解体作業を始める前に必ずiPhoneの電源を切ってください。

    • iPhoneの底面から3.4 mmペンタローブネジを2本外します。

    • iPhoneのディスプレイを開口することにより、ディスプレイの耐水シールが破損します。このステップを進める前に交換用のシールを用意しておくか、耐水シールの交換をしないで再組み立てする場合は液体の浸水に注意してください。

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - 返信

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    iHelpU.Tech - 返信

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - 返信

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - 返信

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - 返信

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: iPhoneディスプレイ用接着剤の交換

    bester - 返信

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - 返信

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen - 返信

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler - 返信

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro - 返信

  2. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, オープニングピックにマークを入れる: 手順 2、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, オープニングピックにマークを入れる: 手順 2、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, オープニングピックにマークを入れる: 手順 2、 3の画像 3
    • オープニングピックを深く差し込みすぎるとデバイスを破損することがあります。この手順に従って、ピックにマークを入れて、破損を防ぎましょう。

    • 油性ペンでオープニングピックの先端から3mmの位置にマークを入れます。

    • また、他の計測方法でピックの先端にマークをつけることができます。

    • 代わりに、先端から3mmの所にコインをテープで留めて利用することも可能です。

  3. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ひび割れた部分にテープを貼る: 手順 3、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ひび割れた部分にテープを貼る: 手順 3、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ひび割れた部分にテープを貼る: 手順 3、 3の画像 3
    • iPhoneの画面が割れてしまった場合、ガラスの表面上にテープを貼っておくと、それ以上広がることがなく、作業中の怪我を防ぐことができます。

    • iPhoneの画面の上に、透明な梱包用テープを重ね合わせます。

    • 修理の際に飛び散るガラスから目を保護するため、安全メガネを着用してください。

    • 次の手順で吸盤がうまく装着しない場合は、強力なテープ(ガムテープなど)を持ち手に折って、代わりにそれでスクリーンを持ち上げてみてください。

    • それでもうまくいかない場合は、吸盤カップに強力接着剤をつけて、画面に装着してください。

  4. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, リバースクランプの使用方法: 手順 4、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, リバースクランプの使用方法: 手順 4、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, リバースクランプの使用方法: 手順 4、 3の画像 3
    • 次の3つの手順では、デバイスの開講作業を簡単にするために開発されたツール、リバースクランプの使い方を紹介します。リバースクランプを使用しない場合は、この3つの手順をスキップして別の方法をご覧ください。

    • リバースクランプの詳細な使用方法については、 こちらのガイドをご覧ください。

    • 青いハンドルをヒンジ側に引くと、リバースクランのアームを解除します。

    • iPhoneの左/右側の端に向けてアームをスライドします。

    • 吸盤カップをiPhoneの下端付近に装着します。前面と背面に1つずつ取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップ両側をギュッと締め合わせると、標的の場所にしっかりと装着させることができます。

    • 作業中のデバイス表面が滑りやすく、吸盤がうまく装着できない場合は、梱包用テープを表面に貼ると、よりグリップ力を強めることができます。

  5. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • 青いハンドルを手前に引くと、アームがロックされます。

    • ハンドルを時計回りに360度回転させ、カップが両側をストレッチするまで回し続けます。

    • 吸盤カップの位置が合っていることを確認してください。装着位置がずれ始めてきたら、吸盤を少し緩めてアームを装着し直してください。

  6. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 2
    • Heat an iOpenerを温めて、リバースクランプのアームの間にこれを通してください。

    • ヘアドライヤーヒートガンもしくはホットプレートでも対応できますが、過剰な熱はディスプレイや内蔵バッテリーを破損する恐れがあります。取り扱いにはご注意ください。

    • iOpenerを折り曲げて、iPhoneの下側端に当たるようにします。

    • 1分ほど待機すると、接着剤が剥がれ始め、デバイスの間に隙間ができます。

    • プラスチックベゼルとスクリーンの間の隙間にオープニングピックを差し込みます。スクリーン自体には差し込まないでください。

    • クランプで十分な隙間が作れない場合は、さらに接着面に熱を当てて、クランプを1/4程度時計回りに回してください。

    • 一回ごとの作業で1/4以上回さないでください。クランプをまわしたら1分間待ってください。リバースクランプの効果を待ってから、作業を続けてください。

    • 次の3つの手順はスキップしてください。

  7. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイを温めます。: 手順 7、 1の画像 1
    • 次の3つの手順では、吸盤カップを使ってスクリーンを乖離させる方法が学べます。

    • iPhoneの下端を加熱すると、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、開きやすくなります。

    • ヘアドライヤーを使用するか、iOpenerを準備し、ディスプレイ裏側の接着剤を柔らかくするために、iPhone下部端に約90秒間あてます。

  8. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイを外します。: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイを外します。: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • ホームボタンのすぐ上にあるフロントパネルの下半分に吸盤を取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップをホームボタン上に装着しないでください。吸盤カップをしっかりとフロントガラスに固定するためです。

  9. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 3の画像 3
    • 一定の力で吸盤カップを引き上げて、スクリーンとフレームの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。

    • 隙間に開口ピックを挿入します。

    • スクリーンを所定位置に固定する防水性接着剤は非常に強く、 最初の隙間を作るにはかなりの力を要します。なかなか隙間ができない場合、さらに熱を加えたり、ピックを挿入できるだけの十分な隙間を作るために画面を上下にゆっくり揺り動かして接着剤を弱めます。

  10. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックを左下からiPhoneの音量コントロールボタンとサイレントスイッチの方向にスライドさせて、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤を剥がします。

    • ディスプレイの左上隅付近で停止します。

    • ディスプレイの上端から後部ケースを引き剥がそうとしないでください。固定しているプラスチック製のクリップが破損することがあります。

  11. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, スクリーンの情報: 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • iPhoneの右側に端に沿って、デリケートなケーブルが装着されています。この部分にピックを差し込まないでください。ケーブルを破損する恐れがあります。

  12. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 3
    • iPhoneの右下隅に開口ピックを再度差し込み、角を回ってiPhoneの右上にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。

    • ディスプレイケーブルを傷つける恐れがあるので、ピックを3mm以上差し込まないでください。

  13. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイの下端を押さえながら、吸盤カップをゆっくりと引き上げます。

    • ディスプレイを15°以上持ち上げないでください。ディスプレイが接続されたリボンケーブルを傷つけたり、破損する恐れがあります。

    • 吸盤カップの小さな持ち手(ノブ)を緩めて、フロントパネルから取り外します。

  14. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイ下の開口ピックを左上の角からiPhoneの上端に沿ってスライドさせて、残りの接着剤を剥がします。

  15. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイアセンブリをわずかに下に(iPhoneの上端から離して)スライドさせて、リアケースに固定しているクリップを外します。

  16. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • 本のページをめくるように、ディスプレイの左側を持ち上げてiPhoneを開きます。

    • いくつかの壊れやすいリボンケーブルがまだiPhoneのロジックボードに接続しているので、ディスプレイを完全に外そうとしないでください。

    • 作業がしやすいように、iPhoneを開口をしたままディスプレイの後ろに衝立を置き、立てかけてください。

  17. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, バッテリーの接続の外し方: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードに留められたディスプレイケーブルブラケットの下部から次の4本のトライウイングY000ネジを取り外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 2.6 mmネジー1本

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - 返信

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - 返信

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - 返信

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - 返信

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - 返信

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - 返信

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - 返信

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - 返信

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel - 返信

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso - 返信

  18. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットの下部を外します。

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - 返信

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - 返信

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - 返信

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - 返信

  19. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを引き上げます。

    • 引き上げた後、コネクターケーブルをわずかにソケットから反対側に曲げて固定します。ソケットに接触して電話本体に電源が入ることがないように防止することができます。

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - 返信

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - 返信

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - 返信

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - 返信

  20. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 20、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 20、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 20、 3の画像 3
    • この手順で、ケーブルの接続を外す、もしくは接続する前に、バッテリーの接続を外しているか必ず確認してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の先を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから2つのディスプレイコネクタをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。

    • コネクタを再装着する際は、コネクタを1つずつ差し込み、カチッと音がしてしっかり装着されてから、もう一方のコネクタを取り付けてください。コネクタの中央を押さえないでください。コネクターが僅かでもずれてしまうと永久的なダメージになります。

    • デバイスを再組み立てした後に、真っ白なスクリーンやディスプレイ上に白い線がある時、または部分的もしくは全体のタッチ応答がない場合は、両方のケーブルの接続を抜いてから、慎重に再接続してください。ケーブルがしっかりと固定されていることを確認してください。

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - 返信

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - 返信

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - 返信

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - 返信

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - 返信

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - 返信

  21. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 3
    • フロントパネルセンサーアセンブリのコネクターに取り付けられているブラケットからトライポイント Y000ネジを計3本外します。

    • 1.3 mm ネジー1本

    • 1.0 mm ネジー2本

    • ブラケットを取り出します。

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - 返信

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - 返信

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - 返信

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - 返信

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - 返信

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - 返信

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - 返信

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - 返信

  22. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 2の画像 2
    • フロントパネルセンサーアセンブリのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

    • このプレスコネクターは再装着の際、変形のダメージを防ぐため1回の取り付けで再接続してください。

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - 返信

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - 返信

  23. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 23、 1の画像 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - 返信

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - 返信

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - 返信

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime - 返信

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell - 返信

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee - 返信

  24. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, 左側Wi-Fiアンテナ: 手順 24、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナコンポーネントに固定されている3本のプラスネジを取り出します。

    • 1.3 mmネジー2本

    • 1.2 mmネジー1本

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack - 返信

    Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.

    Simon -

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey - 返信

    To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

    S C - 返信

  25. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 1の画像 1
    • 上部端のリアケースに固定されたアンテナコンポーネントから1.3 mmプラスネジを外します。

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson - 返信

  26. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 3
    • iPhoneの上部端の小さな角に装着されているアンテナコンポーネント上部にネジが留められています。

    • アンテナコンポーネントをデバイス上部見抜けて傾けます。

    • ネジボスを下向きにスライドして角から取り出します。

  27. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • 上部左側のアンテナコンポーネントを取り出します。

    How do I know if this part is the issue?

    MSD Secretary - 返信

  28. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, SIMカード: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, SIMカード: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • SIMカードの取り出し用ツールや紙クリップをSIMカードトレイの差し込み口に挿入します。

    • トレイを取り出すにはしっかりと押し込みます。

  29. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • iPhoneからSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    • SIMカードはトレイから簡単に取り出せます。

    • SIMカードを再挿入する際は、トレイに対して正しい向きで装着しているか確認してください。

    • SIMトレイ周辺の薄いゴム製ガスケットは耐水、防塵機能を担っています。ガスケットにダメージが入っていたり紛失した場合はiPhoneの内部コンポーネントを保護するために新しいものに交換してください。

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجوال من دون مدخل الشريحه

    Salem - 返信

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجواب من دون مدخل الشريحه نفسها

    Salem - 返信

  30. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 30、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 30、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 30、 3の画像 3
    • iFixitの開口ツールや指の爪を使って、ソケットからデュアルカメラケーブルコネクタをまっすぐに引き上げて、接続を外します。

  31. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 31、 1の画像 1
    この手順で使用する道具:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    購入する
    • リアカメラのブラケットを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 1.6 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 2.2 mmスタンドオフネジー1本

    • スタンドオフネジはスタンドオフドライバーもしくはビットを使って取り外すのが最適です。

    • 急ぎの場合は、小サイズのマイナスドライバーでも対応できます。ねじ穴から滑り出て、周りのコンポーネントにダメージを与えないよう特に注意して作業を進めてください。

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith - 返信

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley - 返信

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix - 返信

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo - 返信

    My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

    Neil Eriksen - 返信

    I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

    Arnie Schoenberg - 返信

  32. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 32、 1の画像 1
    • リアカメラを覆っているブラケットを取り出します。

  33. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケーブルブラケットを固定している1.3 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

  34. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 34、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケーブルブラケットを外します。

  35. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 35、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードの上部左端にある接地クリップを固定している1.3 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

  36. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 36、 1の画像 1
    • 接地クリップを取り出します。

  37. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 37、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 37、 2の画像 2
    • iPhoneのリアケースの上部端にあるアンテナフレックスケーブルを固定している1.3 mmプラスネジを外します。

    • アンテナフレックスケーブルから残りのプラスネジを外します。

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O - 返信

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - 返信

    Also that "remaining" phillips screw is I think a 1.6mm phillips screw. It helps to identify them when reassembling.

    S C - 返信

  38. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 2
    • 爪やiFixitの開口ツールの先端を使って、ロジックボードからアンテナフレックスケーブルコネクタの接続を外します。

  39. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 39、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 39、 2の画像 2
    • アンテナフレックスケーブルの下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込んでスライドしながら接着剤を切り込み、剥がします。

  40. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • アンテナフレックスケーブルの上部にネジボスがあり、iPhoneの上部端の小さな角に留められています。

    • アンテナフレックスケーブルをiPhoneの上部に向けて持ち上げて傾けます。

    • ネジボスを斜めに傾けて角から取り出します。

    • アンテナフレックスケーブルを取り出します。

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt - 返信

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt - 返信

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt - 返信

  41. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 3
    • ピンセットや先鋭のツールを使って、ロジックボードから2本の同軸ケーブルコネクタの接続を丁寧に外します。

    • 再組み立ての際、コネクタを再接続する作業では少しテクニックが必要です。一度に2本のコネクタを手に取り、ソケット上に載せます。スパッジャーの平面側でコネクタを押さえ、カチと音がすればきちんと留まっています。

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes - 返信

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper - 返信

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

    Martin Lambev -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith - 返信

    put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

    Richard - 返信

    %#*@, the ifixit's coaxial connector's quality is such a rubbish. needed a lucky chance to actually insert it into the slot

    Taras Halaida - 返信

  42. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 3
    • ロジックボードから2本の残りのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

    • 上部ケーブルコネクタの接続を外します。

    • Lightningポートコネクタの接続をロジックボードの外側エッジに沿って持ち上げて、接続を外します。

  43. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 43、 1の画像 1
    この手順で使用する道具:
    iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
    $2.99
    購入する
    • ロジックボードに留められた次の7本のネジを外します。

    • 1.3 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmスタンドオフネジー2本

    • 2.0 mm大型スタンドオフネジー2本

    • 2.2 mmスタンドオフネジー2本

    • 2.2mmスタンドオフネジー2本

    • スタンドオフネジを外すには、スタンドオフドライバービットドライバーハンドルを使うのが最善です。

    • 困ったときには、小サイズのマイナスドライバーも役に立ちます。ただし、滑って周囲のコンポーネントにダメージを与えないよう細心の注意を払ってください。

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III - 返信

    I experienced the same.

    Michael Moreno - 返信

    Same for me.

    Zoli - 返信

    BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.

    DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW

    FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!

    Pablo Edvardo - 返信

    Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.

    Christopher Villavicencio -

    1) The fact iFixit marks tho DIFFERENT SCREWS as IDENTICAL i s a big shame. Really guys, DO go an extra mile and account screws thoroughly. Luckily other screws seem to be marked correctly

    2) since iFixit was lazy to compose a build-up instruction:

    better take care of connecting the ports BEFORE you screw tightly the board to the rest of the phone! This gives you some degree of freedom to move the board a bit to be able to click the ports in without destroying them -- its especially the case for the connection with the lightning board, where the chip might be misaligned by a fraction of a millimetre in the direction along the chip even if you placed the lightning chip perfectly in terms of those two pins mentioned below -- you just won't have enough length of the flat cable to align the port (because the flatness and shortness of the cable blocks the movement in the direction you need to align) and risk pressing flat the tiny contacts.

    Taras Halaida - 返信

    Hi all.

    Thank you for leaving your comments! We have changed the guide accordingly to show two separate screws with larger and smaller screw heads. Going forward, you can always directly edit the guides if you have any improvements—we are a wiki after all!

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - 返信

  44. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 44、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 44、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってSIMカード取り出し用のバネ(プランジャー)をロジックボードから押し出します。

  45. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 45、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、丁寧に2本の同軸ケーブルをロジックボードに固定するための小メタル製クリップから解きます。

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O - 返信

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen - 返信

    so which is which ?

    CGG - 返信

    The top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. ⏎
    The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets

    CGG - 返信

  46. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 46、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 46、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 46、 3の画像 3
    • ロジックボードの下部端から持ち上げてiPhoneの底側に向けてスライドしながら取り出します。

    • ロジックボードがケーブルに絡まないようにご注意ください。

    • 再組み立ての間、リアカメラの付近でロジックボードの上部右側端にある黒色の接地クリップの位置を確認してください。ロジックボードはクリップのすぐ下にスライドします。

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose - 返信

  47. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, 気圧ベント: 手順 47、 1の画像 1
    • 背面ケースに留められた気圧ベントから次の2本のプラスネジを取り出します。

    • 2.9 mm ネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmネジー1本

    I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

    Jamie Liao - 返信

    I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…

    William Karis - 返信

    If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone

    John Bryce - 返信

    I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

    Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

    Thomas Young - 返信

    i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.

    Tina Matthews - 返信

  48. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 2
    • 慎重に気圧ベントをTaptic Engineのほうに押して、iPhone下端に固定している接着剤を剥がします。

    Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…

    Sarr Sheffer - 返信

  49. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 49、 1の画像 1
    • ベントを取り出します。

  50. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, Lightning コネクタアセンブリ: 手順 50、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換, Lightning コネクタアセンブリ: 手順 50、 2の画像 2
    • Taptic Engineのリボンケーブルコネクターを押し出して接続を外します。

  51. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 51、 1の画像 1
    • Taptic Engineとリアケースを固定している1.5 mmプラスネジを3本外します。

  52. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 52、 1の画像 1
    • Taptic Engineを取り出します。

    I’m just gonna add a comment here because I’m guessing a lot of other people who are repairing iphone 7s, like me, thought “lets also get a new battery!” This is the point at which you pull the three tape pieces holding the battery to the case out to remove the old battery. When you install a new battery, the battery connector has to be able to line up perfectly with the plug on the logic board so the battery has to go back in the exact right place. This is harder when you’ve already taken apart most of the phone. I ended up putting the battery back in after step 37. Still difficult to positiion it right. I think if I did it again, I might mark where the battery is on the case before I remove it…

    Alex McDonough - 返信

    connect the new battery first then place battery in case

    Richard - 返信

  53. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 53、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 53、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 53、 3の画像 3
    • スピーカーの片側に2本の同軸ケーブルを固定しているメタル製ブラケットより、ケーブルを丁寧に解いて外します。

    per disinguere l'ordine dei connetori vedere l'ottima guida di ifixit dove sostituzione antenna, buon lavoro.

    albinococco - 返信

  54. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 54、 1の画像 1
    • スピーカーに固定されたプラスネジを5本外します。

    • 1.3 mmネジー3本

    • 2.3 mmネジー1本

    • 3.3 mmネジー1本

    For reassembly, the Lightning assembly’s coax cable is routed on top of the speaker’s, and is connected to the lower coax plug at the logic board.

    S C - 返信

    Yes! I marked one with a fine point sharpie to tell the difference. Super important to make a note of each piece, cable, and their position along the way!

    Christopher Villavicencio - 返信

  55. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 55、 1の画像 1
    • スピーカーを取り出します。

    One of the coaxial cables is attached to speaker. Was pulling out the speaker and this was tripping me up until I looked closer

    Alan Ehrle - 返信

    Be careful when putting this part aside with the others as it has magnetics on it and can catch your screw messing them around. The struggle is real.

    vinicius.edson - 返信

  56. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 56、 1の画像 1
    • Lightningポートの上部左側に留められた2.9 mmプラスネジを外します。

  57. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 57、 1の画像 1
    • 今取り出したネジの下にあるバネ接合を取り出します。

    Whats this part used for?

    Eddie Orantes - 返信

    Bonjour, depuis que j’ai changé la nappe du connecteur de charge mon bouton home ne fonctionne plus sur iPhone 7, pouvez vous l’aiguillette. Merci d’avance

    Geoffrey - 返信

    The inverted twitters just saved me from a headache when trying to put this one back in.

    vinicius.edson - 返信

  58. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 58、 1の画像 1
    • Lightningコネクターに固定された次のプラスネジを外します。

    • 1.7 mmネジー2本

    • 2.8 mmネジー1本

  59. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 59、 1の画像 1
    • LightningポートとiPhoneの下側底を固定している1.2 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

    The right one on my phone won’t come out as if it’s rounded off but isn’t any ideas ?

    Ellis whait - 返信

    I had that same problem with one of them. I ended up ripping that piece off and then spinning the entire thing around and that loosened it enough to where i could use another screw driver to spin it out the rest of the way.

    Jeffrey Kovarik - 返信

    Tiene cada tornillo una rondana tipo tierra que a veces se queda pegada a placa del circuito DGC

    Daniel Garcia Camacho - 返信

  60. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 60、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 60、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 60、 3の画像 3
    • iFixit開口ツールの鋭利な先端を使って2つのマイクを固定された接着剤から剥がして外します。

    • マイクを完全に取り出さないでください。画像にあるようにマイクを接着剤から外すだけです。

    I was replacing the battery as well. Now is a great time to remove it.

    John Tinsley - 返信

    I followed John’s advice, and it went smoothly. My iPhone had a white outline of where the battery was on the back case (you can see the white lines in the photo), but I added a few more lines with a white marker just to make sure I would put the new battery in the correct place.

    Christopher Villavicencio - 返信

  61. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 61、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 61、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 61、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックや薄いこじ開け用のツールを使ってLightning コネクターアセンブリのフレックスケーブル上部分の下に差し込みます。スライドしながらリアケースからケーブルを外します。

    • 必要に応じて、ヘアドライヤーやiOpenerを準備してください。剥がれやすくするために、リアケースに熱を当てて接着剤を柔らかくします。

  62. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 62、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 62、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 62、 3の画像 3
    • 続けて、他のコンポーネントにダメージを与えないよう注意しながらフレックスケーブル上部分を取り出します。

  63. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 63、 2の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 63、 2の画像 2
    • 丁寧に開口ピックをバッテリーの角からiPhone全体の角へスライドして、外側フレームに固定されているフレックスケーブルの残りの部分を剥がします。

  64. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 64、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 64、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 64、 3の画像 3
    • ピックをiPhoneの横にスライドさせてリアケースに固定されたフレックスケーブルの残りの部分を全て剥がします。

    • 作業中バッテリーにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。穴が空いてしまったバッテリーは危険な化学物質が排出され、引火の原因となります。

    During re-assembly, ensure you add those four kinks in the ribbon sections that drop down the ridge in the rear casing (perhaps very carefully bend them in shape before sticking the new connector assembly to the casing, which I’ve not yet tried). Otherwise the new ribbon won’t sit directly over the white dots higher up the case, leading to misalignment when trying to connect other ribbon cables later on.

    Dan Gow - 返信

    I thought I understood what Dan meant above. What he’s saying is really helpful, but I didn’t quite understand. During reassembly, I ended up trying to make the bends with a spooger once the replacement piece was already in the case and I poked a small hole through the piece, just missing an electrical component (it still worked). You can see the four bends in the picture here, (all horozontal to the bottom of the phone) but they might be easier to understand if you look at the old lightning connector piece you just took out. They’re four tiny kinks that are essential. If I did it again, I would make the kinks, then apply the ends of the “L” of this part and work toward the bend or the angle of the “L” in the corner. This was probably the hardest part of the repair…

    Alex McDonough - 返信

  65. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 65、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 65、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 65、 3の画像 3
    • Lightningコネクターアセンブリを取り出します。

    • Lightningコネクターアセンブリを取り出し、交換する前に次の点にご注意ください。

    • プラスチック製ツールを使って、リアケースに残っている接着剤を綺麗に取り除いてください。

    • 表面に残った接着剤はイソプロピルアルコール(90%以上の濃度)と糸くずのついていない布で除去できます。一定の方向に拭いて行ったり来たりしないでください。

    • Lightningコネクターアセンブリが正しい配置で装着されているか確認してください。iPhoneのリアケース上の二つの白いドットがLightningフレックスケーブルの円形切り抜きに合わさります。合わない場合は、フレックスケーブルが正しく装着されていません。するとロジックボード上のソケットとケーブルの接続ができません

    the red bit is so important. I’ve just had to completely do this tutorial again bacause it was less than a millimeter askew :( Be careful guys

    AubreyG1 - 返信

    For re-assembly, I first removed the adhesive below the red circles and aligned and adhered. Then, I moved my way down toward the bottom, removing the adhesive. Seemed to work out well.

    Jaret Johnson - 返信

    This should be in the instructions. It is nearly impossible to align otherwise.

    Thomas de Araujo -

    Same as Jaret, I have first exposed the adhesive on the very top section of the lightning port assembly, aligned the assembly with the 2 dots right in the center, and then adhered it there. Then I carefully “rehearesed” / practiced how I would align the rest of the assemble down to the microphones and the connector itself. The top section although already glued on around the two dots, can still slide a bit so I can realign it if needed before I adhere the rest of the assembly. Before I adhere the rest of the assembly I have also placed the logic board just to verify that the top Lightning Port assembly connector goes on perfectly onto the logic board. This helps confirm that it’s sitting well at the top.

    Getting the port connector in as well as the microphones was a bit tedious but that’s the most important part of this process so I took the time to do it right. It was worth it as the phone worked perfectly when I put it all back together.

    S C -

    There is also a little fold or ridge right in front of the lightening socket on the flex.. that little ridge takes up the 1mm you’re out on the dots if you can’t get it aligned. Your speaker may also not work if you get this wrong.

    Scott i - 返信

    I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit

    WADE TURNER - 返信

  66. iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 66、 3の画像 1 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 66、 3の画像 2 iPhone 7 PlusのLightningコネクタアセンブリの交換: 手順 66、 3の画像 3
    • 底側のLightningコネクターにあるラバーガスケットは防水/防塵機能を担っています。新しいLightningコネクターアセンブリを装着する場合は、ガスケットを取り出して新しいパーツに移してください。

    • 二つのマイクの底に留められた小サイズの接着剤パッチもiPhoneの防水/防塵機能の役割を果たしています。最善の方法として、Lightningコネクターアセンブリを装着する前に2つの接着剤パッチを移してください。

    Excellent procedure to take it apart however the kit came with a ‘Mesh’ kit of gaskets and speaker vents with no actual instructions of what is what or when each should be installed. One item that was not in the ‘Mesh’ kit is the rectangular gasket for the lighting connector. Even though it come off the old assembly easily enough there is no adhesive to hold it in place when aligning the assembly into the case.

    I think there should be a parts list with the Mesh kit to make identifying these tiny seal identifiable. That would be helpful.

    WADE TURNER - 返信

    Agree with WADE TURNER. This is really, really weak on the part of iFixit. You need clearer instructions for putting this thing back together—particularly for the adhesives with no identification whatsoever. Also, I hope you are reading this, because aligning the lightning connector assembly perfectly is CRITICAL. If it is not perfectly aligned, there is no way you will be able to connect it to the logic board later.

    Thomas de Araujo - 返信

    I third the comments here.

    Todd Toner - 返信

    Normally when I replace the charge port on any iPhone or device I first connect it to the mainboard to test the connector. After I know that the charge port flex will connect and take amperage from the lightning cable. I leave the flex connector connected to the mainboard and proceed in installing the flex, with the motherboard first, Then I will route the charge port flex cable to the bottom of the phone. That ensures proper placement of the connector and also no kinks in the flex when applying it to the frame.

    As for the microphone or any small component that needs sealant I use a liquid adhesive (no super Glue) use like T7000 T8000 or similar. Take a toothpick and dab a small amount around the area that needs adhesive. Then adhere to the 2 pieces( in this case the microphone to the frame. This always provides a water-tight seal. No matter the location.

    John Loya - 返信

    Amazing that we get to the end and find no re-assembly instructions or specific details about the mesh kit. Ugh!

    Tim Odell - 返信

    tim, follow it backward

    ur mom - 返信

    My Lightning Port assembly came with both the membrane that goes onto the microphone, as well as a pair of “screen” mesh that replace the old ones at the opening for the phone’s speaker and heat port. It took a few minutes to inspect everything and replace them but it’s one-to-one replacement so it helps. There were also a couple of other adhesive parts that I couldn’t see on my phone. Don’t know their purpose.

    In summary additional explanation would help but as is it was decent enough. With the investigation and thinking, the whole process took me much longer than 2 hours but my phone is working fantastically and it was well worth it.

    S C - 返信

    I also replaced the battery right at this step before putting everything else back together. That was pretty easy.

    S C - 返信

    For my repair the adhesive patch that goes on the microphone shown bottom right in the third image was the wrong size. It was about 2mm to long, which meant that the two small holes which are supposed to line up with spikes on the phone body did not. I had the cut it to size. Also, I echo the comments made by others above. Simply stating 'follow this procedure in reverse' is suitable, especially after how much we paid. There are many intricacies that aren't explained that aren't needed when disassembling by are needed when assembling.

    Jamie - 返信

終わりに

オリジナルのパーツと交換用パーツをよく見比べてください。交換用パーツに付いていない残りのコンポーネントや接着シールなどは、インストールする前に新パーツに移植する必要があります。

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。

193 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Jeff Suovanen

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41 件のコメント

NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)

Brady8812 - 返信

I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board

Sean Smyth -

I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.

Conrad -

So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?

Brandon Rasco - 返信

So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas

Thomas Senn - 返信

Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.

Clems -

One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.

Clems -

So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?

Slavic Nikitenko - 返信

I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.

Knox Watson - 返信

I have had the same issue happen. I tried multiple charging ports for my customer and each one would lose cell service. The second I put the original port back in, service was working again. I called my tech support team to no solution. Has anyone else experienced this and able to get it resolved?

drbenson511 -

I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.

Pedro De Anda Jr - 返信

Dose this lightning connector part come with the microphones

Fredy cadena - 返信

It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

Jack - 返信

Can you give a little more explanation here? It might make total sense once I’m inside, but I’m having trouble figuring out which three standoff screws you’re referring to. Looking at step 37, is it the two 2.2 mm screws (green) and the 2.0 mm screw (yellow) on the right side? And do you think I can do it this way without isopropyl alcohol? I’ve only got 70% on hand.

pphenow -

i did this but phone still dead

David Kheng - 返信

This is a very difficult and risky procedure. As an experienced electronics and tech hobbyist and professional (i’m a king nerd), after hours of methodical disassembly, part replacement and reassembly, I managed to not fix my phone and make it worst. Now my battery doesn’t recharge, my SIM card is not being recognized, and the phone is likely not water resistant anymore. A huge waste of time (and some money). I would not recommend anyone moving ahead with this procedure.

Julien Maculan - 返信

Replaced this with iFixit replacement part. The repair went well, however when inserting the SIM, Verizon comes up however I have no bars. I’ve tested on another iPhone with no problem. Any ideas?

chris - 返信

Buongiorno, il connettore Lightning del iPhone 7 è lo stesso del 7 plus?

Grazie mille

Buflein - 返信

I cannot get my charging port to connect back to the main board i have tried setting the port a few times but still no joy?

Sean Smyth - 返信

So my brother changed mine and mixed up all the screws.. how in the world do I find out which screws go where?? Is there a new screw set I can buy that’s already in order

biggs.leana - 返信

I have done lots of these on 7 and 7+………. can be done without removing the logic board, which saves a lot of steps.

Gently lift it and slide something underneath it to free it, and you can slide the old port flex out and the new one in……. just make sure its

in the right position and you can connect it to the board before setting the logic board back down.

Alan Sears - 返信

made this repair. phone is charging now…thank god. everything else is working. but my rear face camera image is shaking( blurry than focused and repeating) front facing camera image on screen is perfect. Helppppppp

morris3891 - 返信

im about to do this repair and now im worried after reading comments

lee hallett - 返信

Finished the whole repair but my speaker seams to not be working any suggestions to fix this everything else works fine

Christopher compton - 返信

Hello,

my iphone is 7plus having two issue one of them is battery is gone very fast so i think i have to changed it but i have another issue i would like your opinon once i make a call i can’t hear anything and the receiver same can’t hear anything so what i have to fixed it.

thank you

Kamal demyian - 返信

I did the replacement for the lightning connector, it works but now the touch screen doesn’t work. Any suggestions on why this is happening? I went back through the process twice and still the same result. I was careful not to damage the connectors to the screen but I can see if there’s damage or not. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Juan Daniels - 返信

The reason I Changed the part is the microphone does not work right after I installed everything I only got the apple logo and nothing else , would not work I had to put back the old part back and it started but still have the microphone problem

Julio Estrada - 返信

An important note when attaching the new lightning port ribbon cable and coaxial cables to the logic board: the new part needs foam padding on top of the press fit cable attachments. You can either steal it from your old ones or put some padding there some other way, but if you don’t have it, it seems the cable bracket will short the connection and prevent the phone from charging. Some of the ifixit parts will not have this padding on there, so double check!

Dylan Box - 返信

I followed the instructions to the letter, was very very very careful with handling the ribbon cables and keeping the screws labelled in separate pots so they went back in exactly the right places, changed the charging port and installed a brand new ifixit battery for good measure. Put it all back together and…nothing. Battery won’t charge, neither will the old one. Powers on with the old battery but thats it. Have checked all my work several times, re-attached the ribbon cables and still nothing. I now have to take it to one of those untrustworthy mobile phone repair shops you find all over the UK that I have been trying so hard to avoid. A massive waste of time and money.

matt2 - 返信

My sister has been having charging issues with her 7 plus. Might have to try this sometime.

Carter - 返信

Well my first attempt was going so well and then trying to remove the sticky backing from the back of one of the mics and the whole mic came off at the ribbon. Arrrgh, So thought maybe it would work with one mic and carried on but now the lightening connector not aligned with logic board AARRGGH!.

Harvinder Azad - 返信

Can someone tell me what the yellow circular tab is for on one of the microphones. I don’t see tho son the one removed. Thanks

Harvinder Azad - 返信

Thanks this was really help for a junior engineer like me.

Kymani Bailey - 返信

Ok step 37 is VERY misleading. Those standoff screws are NOT interchangeable with the others labeled with the same color.

When you are taking off the motherboard, be extremely careful to keep the standoffs organized.

Thomas Rosebrough - 返信

Replacement connector to the logic board does not stay connected. Snaps in, but won’t stay on. Aligned the dots just fine. It’s not an alignment issue. The connector goes on just fine. It just doesn’t stay on.

Curt Shaffer - 返信

So to follow up, reconnecting and disconnecting everything down to the Lightning Connector Assembly itself about three times…no joy. Finally just closed the phone without the seals. I get the mic and the cellular connection…yeah. — But NO CHARGING. I get the “this accessory may not be supported” error message. — So what now “I Fix It”, huh? This whole process is a mess: from lack of proper instructions (coax cables not properly labeled. Some screws are different when labeled the same) and the kit you sell us is missing the Stand-Over screwdriver we need for the procedure! Your kit we paid for is incomplete, and we only find out once we’ve got the phone open. I didn’t fix it, and surely not with your help.

Curt Shaffer - 返信

great guide to a tedious repair. Took me 4 hours ( i have poor eyesight and poor lighting). under better conditions i probably could have done it it 2 hours.

Big Al - 返信

This one was not fun. I used to love fixing iPhones because they were so much simpler than other brands, but once the water resistance -- and techniques to hobble non-OEM parts -- were introduced, they became a nightmare. This port better last, because I think I'm done buying iPhones; Not being able to easily repair them anymore is a deal breaker.

Taylor - 返信

Thanks for the great tutorial!

Gabriel Sieben - 返信

Hi. After reassembly, when plugging in using wall charger, the phone does not detect anything. Tried different cables n charger still nothing. PC doesnt detect. But when plugging in otg thumbdrive, the phone file manager is able to detect. Any advice?

Ippi Ooka - 返信

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