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はじめに

このガイドを使ってiPhone 6s Plusのバッテリーを交換して新しい命を吹き込みましょう。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、 適切な方法で処理してください

このガイドではフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。これはディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えてしまう危険性を防ぐためです。作業中、片手でディスプレイケーブルを固定しながら、iPhoneからバッテリーを外せる場合は、ディスプレイの取り外しをスキップして、直接バッテリーの取り外しに進んでください。

バッテリーの最適化のために、この手順を完了後、新しく搭載したバッテリーのキャリブレーションをしてください。 100%まで充電したら、そのままプラグに繋いだまま、さらに2時間充電状態にします。それから自動的にシャットダウンするまで放電させて、中断なく一気に100%まで充電してください。

またこの手順を使って、

バッテリーコネクタのブラケットを交換することができます。

ビデオの概要

  1. iPhoneを解体する前にバッテリーの残量を25%以下まで放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにダメージを与えると引火や爆発の恐れがあります。
    • iPhoneを解体する前にバッテリーの残量を25%以下まで放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにダメージを与えると引火や爆発の恐れがあります。

    • 解体を始める前に、iPhoneの電源を切ってください。

    • Lightningポートの両端に留められた3.4 mmペンタローブネジを2本外します。

    Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

    Miguel Perez - 返信

    If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

    I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

    Ganqian Zhu - 返信

    iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

    Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

    grazie

    Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

    Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

    thank you

    Daniele - 返信

    You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair

    Cheers Wayne

    Wayne Lyell -

    How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

    integritybuilders - 返信

    When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?

    johnpatrickanat - 返信

    Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it

    shellietheleo - 返信

  2. 6s Plus ディスプレイの開口作業は、ディスプレイ周辺に留められた薄い接着タブを剥がすことから始まります。交換用の接着タブを使用する場合は、作業前に準備してください。接着剤タブをそのまま使用しても、機能上は問題ありません。
    • 6s Plus ディスプレイの開口作業は、ディスプレイ周辺に留められた薄い接着タブを剥がすことから始まります。交換用の接着タブを使用する場合は、作業前に準備してください。接着剤タブをそのまま使用しても、機能上は問題ありません。

    • ディスプレイアセンブリ下側左端に吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    take out screws first!!

    Yoav Karmon - 返信

    Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

    Miguel Perez - 返信

    My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

    Jim Cowles - 返信

  3. フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作るため、吸盤カップを一定の強さでゆっくりと引き上げます。 力強く引っ張るとディスプレイアセンブリにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。リアケースとディスプレイアセンブリの間に小さな隙間を作る程度の力加減にします。
    • フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作るため、吸盤カップを一定の強さでゆっくりと引き上げます。

    • 力強く引っ張るとディスプレイアセンブリにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。リアケースとディスプレイアセンブリの間に小さな隙間を作る程度の力加減にします。

    I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

    John Architzel - 返信

    A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

    djwooten -

    I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

    jkanne - 返信

    This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

    Julie Sanchez - 返信

    Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

    bartmistrot - 返信

    I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

    Jason Augustyn - 返信

    I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

    Brent - 返信

    If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.

    Jeffrey - 返信

    I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.

    gordojenkins - 返信

  4. 一番最初に開口する安全な場所はヘッドホンジャック上部のフロントパネル下にできる隙間です。 吸盤カップを持ち上げながら、ヘッドフォンジャック上部の隙間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 吸盤カップを持ち上げながら、ヘッドフォンジャック上部の隙間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。
    • 一番最初に開口する安全な場所はヘッドホンジャック上部のフロントパネル下にできる隙間です。

    • 吸盤カップを持ち上げながら、ヘッドフォンジャック上部の隙間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

    This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

    drpotter - 返信

  5. フロントパネルとリアケースの隙間を広げるようにスパッジャーをひねりながらスライドします。 フロントパネルとリアケースの隙間を広げるようにスパッジャーをひねりながらスライドします。
    • フロントパネルとリアケースの隙間を広げるようにスパッジャーをひねりながらスライドします。

    just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

    Bart Blanckaert - 返信

  6. 吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げながら、ディスプレイの左側角までスパッジャーの先端をスライドします。 吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げながら、ディスプレイの左側角までスパッジャーの先端をスライドします。 吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げながら、ディスプレイの左側角までスパッジャーの先端をスライドします。
    • 吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げながら、ディスプレイの左側角までスパッジャーの先端をスライドします。

  7. スパッジャーの先端をフロントパネルとリアケースの間に入れ、押し上げながらデバイス本体左側までスライドして開口します。 スパッジャーの先端をフロントパネルとリアケースの間に入れ、押し上げながらデバイス本体左側までスライドして開口します。
    • スパッジャーの先端をフロントパネルとリアケースの間に入れ、押し上げながらデバイス本体左側までスライドして開口します。

  8. スパッジャーの平面側先端をディスプレイ下部の右側角に差し込みます。 スパッジャーを右側に沿ってスライドします。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端をディスプレイ下部の右側角に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを右側に沿ってスライドします。

  9. プラスチックの開口ツールを使ってリアケースを下向きに押さえながら固定し、デバイスを吸盤カップで引き上げます。 ディスプレイを完全に外さないでください。iPhone上部端に付けられたディスプレイ用のデータケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使ってリアケースを下向きに押さえながら固定し、デバイスを吸盤カップで引き上げます。

    • ディスプレイを完全に外さないでください。iPhone上部端に付けられたディスプレイ用のデータケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

  10. Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。

    ショップを見る

    Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。

    ショップを見る
  11. 吸盤カップの小さな持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、ディスプレイから外します。 吸盤カップの小さな持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、ディスプレイから外します。
    • 吸盤カップの小さな持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、ディスプレイから外します。

    Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

    Won Hong - 返信

    There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  12. デバイス本体上部を蝶番のようにして、リアケースからディスプレイアセンブリのホームボタン端を持ち上げ、iPhoneを開きます。 ディスプレイを直角に開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろ側に衝立を置き開いたまま固定します。 90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。ディスプレイ、デジタイザー、切断しやすい正面カメラケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態です。
    • デバイス本体上部を蝶番のようにして、リアケースからディスプレイアセンブリのホームボタン端を持ち上げ、iPhoneを開きます。

    • ディスプレイを直角に開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろ側に衝立を置き開いたまま固定します。

    • 90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。ディスプレイ、デジタイザー、切断しやすい正面カメラケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態です。

    • 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように輪ゴムなどで留めてください。これはディスプレイケーブルに予期せぬ圧力が加わらないように保護するためです。

    • 急ぎの場合は、未開封の飲料用缶を使ってディスプレイに立てかけることもできます。

  13. 基板に留められたバッテリーコネクターブラケットから、次のプラスネジを取り外します。
    • 基板に留められたバッテリーコネクターブラケットから、次のプラスネジを取り外します。

    • 2.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.3 mmネジー1本

    FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

    I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

    Julie Sanchez - 返信

    Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

    Joe Teichert - 返信

    PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

    Benjamin Stalcup - 返信

    For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

    Jack Daniel - 返信

    Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.

    Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.

    Harry McDow - 返信

    This step is extremely important in fixing your phone: I had an iPhone that I fried as I forgot to disconnect the battery, end of the show!

    Jaron Foo - 返信

  14. バッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。 バッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。
    • バッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

    Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

    Coupon Crazy - 返信

  15. スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板からバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板からバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板からバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板からバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

  16. 作業中、コネクターが誤って接続してしまいiPhoneの電源が入らないように、コネクターの接続を外したら反対側に折り返します。 作業中、コネクターが誤って接続してしまいiPhoneの電源が入らないように、コネクターの接続を外したら反対側に折り返します。 作業中、コネクターが誤って接続してしまいiPhoneの電源が入らないように、コネクターの接続を外したら反対側に折り返します。
    • 作業中、コネクターが誤って接続してしまいiPhoneの電源が入らないように、コネクターの接続を外したら反対側に折り返します。

    When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

    Won Hong - 返信

  17. 次のプラスネジを外します。
    • 次のプラスネジを外します。

    • 1.3 mmネジー3本

    • 1.6 mmネジー1本

    • 3.0 mmネジー1本

    • 再組み立ての際は、この3.0 mmネジをブラケットの右端上部の定位置に必ず取り付けてください。謝った箇所に取り付けてしまうと基板にダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

    John Parker - 返信

    I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

    Thor -

    I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

    Michael Gross - 返信

    To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

    Christa - 返信

    Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

    Tom -

    Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

    Shiva Sharma - 返信

    I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

    P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

    Tom - 返信

  18. ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。 ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
    • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

  19. コネクターのみに差し込んで接続外してください。基板上のソケットには触らないでください。 プラスチック製開口ツールを使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
    • コネクターのみに差し込んで接続外してください。基板上のソケットには触らないでください。

    • プラスチック製開口ツールを使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

    Julie Sanchez - 返信

  20. プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ディスプレイのデーターケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクター中央を押さないでください。一方のコネクター端を押し込んでから、片方の端を押します。コネクターの中央を押さえてしまうと、コンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ディスプレイのデーターケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクター中央を押さないでください。一方のコネクター端を押し込んでから、片方の端を押します。コネクターの中央を押さえてしまうと、コンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    Thanks you i fix it

    God Hand - 返信

    “When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

    The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

    Jeffrey Robinos - 返信

    Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

    Norbert Andreas Richartz - 返信

  21. この手順ではケーブルの接続を外す、もしくは再接続する前に、バッテリーが外れていることを確認してください。 ロジックボード上のソケットから、ディスプレイケーブルをまっすぐ引き抜いて接続を外します。
    • この手順ではケーブルの接続を外す、もしくは再接続する前に、バッテリーが外れていることを確認してください。

    • ロジックボード上のソケットから、ディスプレイケーブルをまっすぐ引き抜いて接続を外します。

    How much is this to replace?

    Alistair knight - 返信

    And where could I buy from?

    Alistair knight - 返信

    After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

    Bryan Province - 返信

    Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

    Brent - 返信

    Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

    shoeib - 返信

    What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

    Mine came loose somehow?

    Jason Engelsman - 返信

    I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

    Jason Engelsman - 返信

    i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.

    can i still fix it?

    what exactly is broken now?

    alejandro rueda - 返信

    @mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  22. ディスプレイアセンブリを取り出します。 再組み立ての際、ディスプレイ周辺に留められた接着タブ交換する場合はここで作業を止めて、このガイドを参照してください。
    • ディスプレイアセンブリを取り出します。

    • 再組み立ての際、ディスプレイ周辺に留められた接着タブ交換する場合はここで作業を止めて、このガイドを参照してください

    For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

    iPhone 6s Plus のホームボタンアセンブリの交換

    Superior Office Systems - 返信

    Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

    Christa - 返信

    @kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

    Matthew Olwell - 返信

    These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!

    Chris Enloe - 返信

  23. 3本のバッテリー用接着タブの先端をバッテリーの端から剥がして取り出します。 3本のバッテリー用接着タブの先端をバッテリーの端から剥がして取り出します。 3本のバッテリー用接着タブの先端をバッテリーの端から剥がして取り出します。
    • 3本のバッテリー用接着タブの先端をバッテリーの端から剥がして取り出します。

    OK - second most challenging part of the swap. TAKE YOUR TIME! It is hard to pull the strips out without getting them caught on the metal edge parts inside which can tear them, but do them one at a time, pull slow but steady, and as it stretches, grab the tape closer down near the body of the phone. You will not believe how far these things can stretch!

    I was successful with getting 2/3 of them out but the one closest to the guts - the first one I tried to hurry - broke off. I got the other two out then needed to use a credit card to get up & under to loosen the battery. Another video I saw showed slightly warming up the back of the phone using a hair dryer set on low which would loosen the adhesive, but I did not do that. I was able to get the battery up far enough to use the tweezers to grab the adhesive and then pull it out.

    Julie Sanchez - 返信

    I’m absolutely stuck here. I don’t see the adhesive strips at the bottom of the battery. I only see the flat cable that wraps around the bottom of the battery, which is now separated. I don’t think it was supposed to separate like that.

    David Warshowsky - 返信

  24. 3本の接着タブの先端をひとまとめにして掴みます。
    • 3本の接着タブの先端をひとまとめにして掴みます。

    • この作業中、タブを平らな状態に保ち、シワのないようにしてください。シワの入ったストリップは絡んでしまい、破れてしまいます。

    When I did this, the 5 inch strip stretched to about 3 feet.

    Joe Teichert - 返信

    I found it easier to pull out one strip at a time. There really isn’t need to pull all three at the same time.

    gordojenkins - 返信

  25. iPhoneの下に向かって、バッテリーから接着タブをゆっくりと引っ張ります。 接着タブが切断しないように、バッテリーや下のコンポーネントに向かって引っ張らないでください。 一定の力でしっかりとタブを引っ張ります。するとタブがバッテリーとリアケースの間から出てきます。一番良い角度は、60º 以下で引っ張ることです。
    • iPhoneの下に向かって、バッテリーから接着タブをゆっくりと引っ張ります。

    • 接着タブが切断しないように、バッテリーや下のコンポーネントに向かって引っ張らないでください。

    • 一定の力でしっかりとタブを引っ張ります。するとタブがバッテリーとリアケースの間から出てきます。一番良い角度は、60º 以下で引っ張ることです。

    • タブは最初に掴んだ長さから何倍にも伸びます。必要に応じてバッテリー近くでタブを持ち替えて引っ張り続けます。

    • 作業中、片手でバッテリーを押さえます。リアケースから接着タブを取り出した際に、バッテリーが飛びだしてしまうことがあるためです。

    Use a set of curved tweasers to pull each strip clear of the bottom left corner of the battery. Then the strips will pull out alongside the battery and the frame almost effortlessly. Do this for each strip and your battery should almost fall out.

    Dustin DeShaney - 返信

    I found it better to pull one strip at a time

    John Parker - 返信

    Do them separately or they will probably rip like mine did :(

    Christopher Eccles - 返信

    Pulling them separately is a good idea especially if it’s your first time. My middle strip tore at the beginning and I had to pry the battery up and then I was able to remove the remaining strip of adhesive. While prying the old battery in an upward angle it did start to bend I believe I achieved a 35 degree angle

    Gregory - 返信

    Definitely agree one at a time - see my comment above for more detail. Also possible to slightly warm the back of the phone first using hair dryer set on low. This loosens the adhesive if for some reason you break a strip off & have to pry the battery out (CAREFULLY)

    Julie Sanchez - 返信

    I used a hair dryer to warm the back of the phone, and I still broke two of the three “taffy stickers”. If I did it again, I would keep the back warm with a hair dryer, and gradually pull one piece straight out at a time at as low an angle as possible. Unfortunately, the small backers came off my perimeter adhesive, so as I pulled the taffy stickers out, it stuck to the perimeter adhesive and messed it up. Perhaps remove the battery before applying the new adhesive around the edge of the phone? Everything was going well for me until this step.

    Joe Teichert - 返信

    Nightmare. All three strips broke. I did get the battery out with a combination of dental floss, a guitar string, and a few cut-down credit cards. But the adhesive is very strong even when warmed, and the outer wrapper of the battery tore during removal. I was afraid of it heating up and sparking, as I have seen other damaged lithium ion batteries do.

    Garrett McWilliams - 返信

    If your battery is bend, DO NOT TRY TO RE-FLATTEN it again cause my battery were BURNT. luckily i’ve drain the battery beforehand till <28% but next time i’ll drain it until <5% to reduce the energy if it catch fire, i believe if the battery is in full charge it will explode. Dont try to extinguish the battery since it will not until it all the energy is burnt. Just keep it controlled. And REMEMBER TO DRAIN YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DETACH.

    osbert intanu - 返信

  26. 3つ全ての接着タブを無事取り外せたら、次の手順へ進んでください。取り外せない場合は、リアケースからバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出す必要があります。 iOpenerを準備して、リアケースのバッテリーの裏側に直接あてします。あるいはヒートガンやヘアドライヤーなどを利用することもできます。
    • 3つ全ての接着タブを無事取り外せたら、次の手順へ進んでください。取り外せない場合は、リアケースからバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出す必要があります。

    • iOpenerを準備して、リアケースのバッテリーの裏側に直接あてします。あるいはヒートガンやヘアドライヤーなどを利用することもできます。

    • 約1分経過したらデバイス本体を裏返して、プラスチックカードをバッテリー裏に差し込み、圧着剤を切り込みながら剥がします。

    • 音量(–)とバッテリーの上部先端の間にカードを挿入しないでください。この下にある音量コントロールケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 基板側からバッテリーをこじ開けないでください。iPhoneにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • バッテリーを曲げないようにできるだけカードを水平にして差し込みます。バッテリーにダメージを与えてしまうと、危険な化学物質が排出されて引火の原因となります。またバッテリーへの作業では鋭利なツールを使用しないでください。

    • 代わりにデンタルフロスもリアケースからバッテリーを取り出す際に利用できます。デンタルフロス以上に強度のあるものはギターの弦です。12弦セットから 0.009 E弦がおすすめです。

    • フロスや弦をバッテリー上部の角の下に回して両側を合わせ、包みながら均等に持ち上げます。

    I didn’t have an iOpener on hand (although plan on purchasing one now). I remembered that I had some handwarmers lying around, and they worked well to apply enough heat to help release the adhesive strips easily.

    Jami - 返信

  27. バッテリーを取り出します。
    • バッテリーを取り出します。

    • 交換するバッテリーがプラスチックのスリーブに覆われていれば、リボンケーブルから引っ張って、バッテリーを再装着する前に取り除いてください。

    • バッテリーを再装着する際に接着タブを交換したい方はこのガイドをご覧ください。

    • 再組み立ての後はハードリセットを行ってください。これはトラブルシューティングを簡易にして幾つかの起こりうる問題を防いでくれます。

    I recommend putting the battery in place BEFORE putting the new adhesive strips to make sure you know for sure that the battery connector lines up with the socket. I ended up with a battery wire that was just a bit too long and I mounted the battery way at top of the pocket (big mistake). Even after moving the battery down, the connector wire was still a little too long, so I had to connect the battery and shove the wire between the battery and logic board as much as I could. Checking the battery beforehand could save some adhesive strips from going to waste.

    joetalaga - 返信

    Thanks for the tip, joetalaga!

    Joe Teichert - 返信

まとめ

交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを装着する前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。

330 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Evan Noronha

メンバー登録日: 2015年02月05日

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Most common on IPhone 6s/6 repair jobs is this battery replacement. Great tutorial!

Raymond Amansec - 返信

so few comments on this one?!

has any/many done this without the adhesive strips.. and was it ok?

sarah - 返信

If you mean the battery adhesive strips, sure—you can put a piece of double-sided tape down the back of the battery, and it probably won't move anywhere. There's not much room for the battery to move anyway. Use the adhesive strips if you want to do it right—but, if you're in a bind and you just need the phone working, you can skip the strips. And you can always open the phone back up and add the adhesive strips later.

If you mean the adhesive gasket around the display, the answer is pretty much the same—It's better to have it, but it doesn't hurt anything to put the phone back together without it.

Jeff Suovanen -

by far the easiest repair I've done. only 3 screws! really dont think the cables need to be disconneted. i just used a shoe lace to gently hold up the screen. sticky strips came out fine. happy. thanks.

sarah - 返信

Where can one buy the adhesive gasket for the case

Sandeep singh - 返信

I know almost a year later to reply, but if you buy the battery kit, the adhesive gasket for the display comes with it—along with a pentalobe screw liberation kit.

joetalaga -

The iFixit store has them

william.r.crowley -

Is the battery OEM apple one

Sandeep singh - 返信

The battery from the iFixit battery kit is not OEM, but it is tested and guaranteed with a one-year warranty.

joetalaga -

i want to aperfect technecian give me your advise

dawit ican✔ - 返信

Where can I buy de adhesive that is around the display? Can I use B7000 glue?

Ezequiel Braunstein - 返信

Reassembly of the display to the chassis was a terrible ordeal until I realized that the front-facing camera connector and sensor cable connector cables had changed position in the 3-cable stack. This is possible--try it yourself:

Follow the two disconnected cables back to the display.

Swap them by tucking the smaller connector cable UNDER the bigger connector cable. You can do it because the angle that they exit the display lets them lie either way, on top of the other or under it.

You'll know immediately when trying to re-attach the connectors because the big connector needs to be the second (middle) one. Otherwise the cables can be hooked up with a lot of fiddle but they won't fold to fit under the cover..

Ned Bedinger - 返信

The battery adhesive -- my case used to get hot until i changed the batt. Two-sided tape (like carpet tape) might not let heat shed betweenor or through the strips. Using two-side non-specifc tape in wide stripsfrom a roll? It makes me wonder about heat-managing properties of official batt tape.

Ned Bedinger - 返信

The old battery blew up on me while replacing, because the battery adhesive strips tore. I didn't have a plastic card to unstick the battery, so I had to bend it. That's why it blew up, so be careful guys, because I absolutely didn't expect that. There was lots of smoke and I burned myself a little bit.

I thought my phone will die after that, but I connected new battery and everything works fine.

Roman Visente - 返信

may i change 6s plus battery with 6 plus?

Charles Cho - 返信

Wow! That was awesome. It's amazing how easy things can be when they are designed to be replaced! One note though, when I was draining my new battery, at below 10% it would not play sound. I could not play music, or hear phone calls, I could however be heard. After having opened my phone so recently I was worried a connection had come loose or been missed entirely. Once charged to 100% everything behaved as expected. I am not sure if that is normal or not. I could totally understand restricting power use at those levels, but does it? I didn't "enter power save" not knowingly at least.

Michael Cornforth - 返信

Very straight forward instructions. Easy to follow; video helped as well. Took me about 1 hour to complete. Phone is charging now. Looking forward to see how the new battery performs. Thanks very much for this site and to all contributors! I like fixing things myself. 11/19/17.

Patrick Dunlap - 返信

I don’t get why you need to take the screen off really.

AmMahabir - 返信

This guide is make from an iPhone 6s total tear down

Mandy -

I've done this twice and each time I can't get the old adhesive to come off cleanly. I had to use an iopener each time. Just be careful and not bend your battery. It will get hot and smoke if you bend it a lot. Other than that, real easy to replace.

chuongho - 返信

Just got done with my first iPhone battery replacement. Took me about an hour. I think the hardest part for me was getting the screen popped open enough to get the spudger in there. I ended up using an iOpener to warm the adhesive a little and it was a little easier to open enough to get the spudger in there. I also used the plastic scalpel tool from the Pro TechToolkit to cut the adhesive loose before shoving the spudger in there.

joetalaga - 返信

Hi,

I followed this tuto and I successfully changed the battery on my iPhone 6 S Plus without any difficulty. But, after then change, touchId feature does not work anymore. Main button is working fine, only touchId feature is faulty: I have a message saying that touchId feature will not be available on the phone.

I wonder if the fact that I disconnected the touchId connector (part of the 3 screen connectors), and reconnected it at the end, may act as the screen itself was changed. Some messages on forums tell that in this case, the iPhone refuses to reactivate touchId feature.

If someone can help it would be great.

Thxs,

Jean-Claude Ribiere - 返信

This was my first ever DIY replacement from iFixit. This guide was absolutely on spot and it was so easy for me to replace the battery. Thanks.

Anubhav - 返信

Don’t be as stupid as me and follow the guide at the step 23. It’s really difficult to pull all the tabs together, better try it to pull out a single one and then go on with the next one.

Everything else worked like the guide said.

Elias Bürgisser - 返信

The same here as Jean-Claude Ribiere experienced. My iPhone 6s plus refuses to activate touch-id after successful battery replacement. Main button works fine. I have found no help on any forums for this issue and would like post a warning for this repair guide.

Kalle Punsvik - 返信

Was the battery the only component you replaced? if so, it’s likely you damaged one of the cables during the process.

These phones are very delicate and it is easy to cause unseen damage if you’re not careful.

Jonathan Reynolds -

In general the instructions were clear. Only thing missing is the gasket instructions as it is included in the kit but not in the instructions.

Won Hong - 返信

Yes, and gasket instructions are needed. I tried to install the gasket and could not get it to seat properly and gave up. You only get one try and then it is ruined.

richlove -

There should be large red bold letters in this procedure telling you to make sure the battery is not connected when re-connecting the display cables.

I blew the backlight circuit on the motherboard.

I had the battery connected when plugging in the display cables.

Power was not on so it did not occur to me that it would be a problem.

Expensive mistake.

The problem that lures you into this trap is that you need to position the battery to align with the battery connector when re-installing the battery.

To make sure it is aligned properly, the natural thing to do is to plug in the battery connector.

But then you can forget that the battery is connected when you re-attach the display cables.

If I were to do this procedure again, I would not even disconnect the display at all. It is not necessary when replacing the battery.

richlove - 返信

Same thing happened to me. display now dead. had it done at the local gadget /phone repair store but they couldn’t fix it.

Were you able to fix yours?

Philip Storey -

Anybody have a solution to the front facing camera assembly not working? Changed out my buddies battery and now the front camera and ear speaker don't work.

Wade - 返信

My iPhone 6s+ was stuck in a restart loop. I tried EVERYTHING! Did you try… YES! I tried it. The Apple store near me didn’t have an appointment available for 6 days. I recently had them replace the battery since they admitted to screwing everyone’s phone up and it had been randomly restarting at all different times. This morning I tried to do an iTunes factory reset and still just rebooted when done. I followed these steps up to #20. Then I reassembled (losing the 30mm screw for the logic board) and fired it up. She was a little groggy at first but runs great now!

tseantownsend - 返信

Mine doesn’t switch on at all - will they still help me with my iPhone even if I tried to fix it myself?

Because I know they like to do things like that haha

Klaud Kveda -

I done this with mine but could not get strips out so just forced the battery out - without disconnecting LCD and then the phone would not switch on, so I gave up with it.

Since then I tried to do it again and just checked the connections with the battery and seems to of turned on so I was happy and put it on charge only for it to turn off again after around 5 mins and it wont switch back on now.

Let me know if there is anything I could do to fix this.

Klaud Kveda - 返信

I could not believe it. I DID. This guide was helpful including some comments. Thank you!

Alberto Vega - 返信

I accidentally used the tweezer in step 14 after removing the battery connector bracket and I saw some sparks. Did it fry my batter connector?

Kim Leabres - 返信

Not sure why I had to take the front off completely [iPhone 6s plus]. Also, replacing the adhesive strips was a disaster as mine looked nothing like what was in the photos. Scotch double sided to the rescue. Hope it doesn’t melt or something [fist bump myself explosion emoji]

Tom Lynham - 返信

this is ridiculous, just use your brain and make a phone w an ejectable battery… a duh.

HEMP IS NOT POT - 返信

battery addhensive is too sticky. would be nice to add iopener in the toolkit. i tried to force the battery out without heat it. battery caught fire. luckily the phone still works after clean the mess. i would suggest to get an iopener if you want to replace battery.

yuan wei - 返信

Hello! Is to possible to change the battery while the screen is broken? I dont want to change the screen just the battery! :)

Otto linden - 返信

@otto_linden Totally possible, although getting a broken screen off can be troublesome. If it’s badly broken, the stress of removing it can make it worse, so it may go back together “more broken” than when you started. All other things being equal, I’d probably suggest waiting until you can do both at once. But, your call! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

just did my new battery tonight and found the front display connectors really hard to remove.

Put everything back but now my ear speaker isnt working.

Tried hard reset and removing all tabs and replacing but it’s still not working :(

Everything else works fine. So disappointed will now have to go to apple for a more expensive repair than a simple battery :(

John Sherrit - 返信

Just wanted to add that when I added the new battery the phone got exteremely hot so I have removed the “new” battery and put the old one back in and temps are normal again,

Good to see there is a one year warranty as this battery is going back.

John Sherrit - 返信

Hi John! Our Support team is here to assist if you’d like to inquire about your warranty. Please feel free to reach out via help.ifixit.com and they’ll look into this trouble with you.

Kadan Sharpe -

My iPhone 6s Plus battery was dead after 2 and a half year. Thanks to this very good tutorial and the replacement kit including the new battery and tooling kit. My iPhone’s life is hopefully extended by another 2 years at least.

yannick Lamp - 返信

This Guide WAS VERY AWESOME!!! First time replacing iPhone Battery

mfigeroux - 返信

I don’t know about everyone else, but this fix was a pain process. The screws are so small you need an electron scanning microscope to see them. Then the magnetized screwdriver heads are great, but then when putting screws back in, it is really tough.

Sandwah - 返信

非常感谢!我最近正在准备协助我的朋友更换她的老旧电池,这篇文章真的太棒了!是及时雨~

Liu bing - 返信

我觉得,现在的手机之类的电子产品内部是非常精密的,这可能需要我在修理时准备好一盏工作台灯协助我的拆机工作,否则,我担心拆机的环境光照是否足够~

Liu bing - 返信

Good Job! Easy To follow instructions. Thank.

Leo Lambert Jr - 返信

We missed the window for Apple’s battery replacement so I finally bought a replacement here. Great tutorial. Easy to follow steps (wow, those screws are small!) All replaced and reassembled with no parts left over. :)

Michael - 返信

My earpiece speaker no longer works after the battery replacement, any suggestions

Tyler Martin - 返信

Both cameras stopped working as well

Tyler Martin -

I had similar issues on other iPhone models and it was always caused by the associated cable not plugged in correctly. Either that or the said cable might have been previously damaged because those iPhone cables really are fragile.

Daniel Lafargue -

CAn you use I6 plus battery with I6s plus phone vise versa?

yany - 返信

I would say, make it clear in the guide at the beginning that it is not necessary to remove the screen assembly (to replace the battery.)

A soup can and two rubber bands with a piece of cloth to protect the screen work splendidly for holding the screen at a 90 degree angle.

Unless you have to do something specifically to the display, I think with those additional miniature screws of different sizes and tiny connectors you’re just increasing your chances of failure if all you’re doing is replacing the battery.

Great guide though, very helpful. Thank you!

Timothy Lee Russell - 返信

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