iPhone 6 Plusの音量コントロールとロッカースイッチボタンの交換

Pentalobe P2

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

Español:

Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

Perdón por mi mal inglés

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

Thank you :)

The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

That's what I was thinking.

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

Why does the screen need to come off?

Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

Ça été pour moi la partie la plus difficile du démontage de l’iPhone, j’ai cassé les 2 bandes parce que je ne me suis pas bien appliqué pour les décoller avec la pince. Pour m’en sortir,. j’ai tordu la batterie avec les outils de manière à faire apparaître les bandes adhésives pour les enlever sans problème.

I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

I was able to pull the strip all the way out from the bottom instead of working my way to the right edge. I never felt an increase in the resistance on the strip that would lead me to believe I needed to work towards the right edge.

This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

Hat leider alles nicht geklappt! Musste mit einer Karte und einer Seite sehr lange fummeln und da sich die Folie vom Akku zu sehr mit dem gehäuse verbunden hat. Dadurch hat sie sich gelöst und durch das erwärmen leider auch nicht wirklich besser.

This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

can we put the iphone 6 plus battery into the iPhone 6s Plus?

Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!

Awesome procedure! Thanks. iPhone 6plus working great. Make sure you have quality tools. Thanks again.

The replacement battery didn’t come with new adhesive strips. Don’t know why.