Introduction

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone’s LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm-long Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

Brian Mojica -

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Reply

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Reply

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Reply

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Reply

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Reply

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Reply

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Reply

I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

Megan Telliano - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

lionno1 - Reply

Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

Chloé Bossuette - Reply

  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Reply

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Reply

  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

You can put clear tape over it. it works.

Owen -

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - Reply

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

Megan Telliano -

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - Reply

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - Reply

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

Albert -

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Reply

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Reply

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Reply

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - Reply

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - Reply

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - Reply

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - Reply

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Reply

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Reply

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - Reply

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - Reply

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - Reply

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - Reply

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - Reply

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - Reply

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - Reply

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - Reply

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - Reply

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

Trish - Reply

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Reply

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - Reply

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - Reply

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - Reply

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - Reply

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

cambo.robertson - Reply

Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

Juan - Reply

  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

Carol N -

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Reply

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Reply

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - Reply

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - Reply

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - Reply

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - Reply

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - Reply

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - Reply

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - Reply

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Indiana Jones - Reply

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

d.rando90 - Reply

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

Regan Murray - Reply

I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

AndyKao - Reply

Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

Gary Brinkworth - Reply

The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks for your reply

even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

Gary Brinkworth - Reply

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

Joan Fitzgerald - Reply

  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Reply

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - Reply

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Reply

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Sergio Midence - Reply

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Trish - Reply

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

Cyndi - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Reply

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - Reply

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

Can changing the earpiece disable the Touch ID?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

I read somewhere that if I change the earphone speaker. It will disable the Touch ID once I put the phone back together. Do I have to sacrifice one of these if I want my earphone speaker to work?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

The earpiece speaker itself has nothing to do with Touch ID; a correctly performed repair will leave Touch ID perfectly intact. Touch ID will only be disabled if you damage the home button hardware or the ribbon cable that connects it to the logic board. That cable runs from the home button, behind the display shield, and up to the top of the phone near the earpiece speaker. So yes, if you are unfortunate/careless enough to damage it in the process of replacing your earpiece speaker, that could disable Touch ID, although Touch ID is no different from any other component in that respect! ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

I completely ripped my home button ribbon, that being attached to the LCD shield/Front Panel (steps 36-38, step 38 to be more precise). I can confirm you CAN replace the shield\attached ribbon cable. This DOES NOT disable touch ID/you do not have to ask Apple to resync the button identifier.

Just to be clear, this is assuming that you do not damage the actual home button assembly steps 29-35.

(My replacement was from a supplier who reclaims parts from iPhones, so it would/should be an Apple original)

Chris K - Reply

  • Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel.

Be sure that the replacement part has a little black squared sponge facing the camera. I have purchased some replacement displays in the past (assembled with front camera) and some of them didn't had that sponge. The result is a front camera not pushed onto the display glass and this will cause backlight leaks into the front camera.

ferbarragan88 - Reply

  • Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel.

its better to slightly heat the display from front in order to loseen the adhesive which is glued with the strip to display

vara prasad - Reply

Be sure to remove the plastic bracket (clear piece) that holds the camera in place from the old screen and add it to your new screen, or else your camera won't seat the right way against the screen and you'll have to take everything apart to place it in.

marcus derkson - Reply

Take note of where the cable is placed. When I put everything back together my cable assembly was behind the others (as I reassembled this ‘area’ into my new screen before continuing to the home button). As the cable was behind, the four connectors being attached to the main board were not in the right sequence, so I had to manoeuvre them (a bit more fiddly than you would imagine).

Chris K - Reply

  • Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, remove the earpiece speaker from the front panel.

    • Try not to touch any of the contacts on the speaker or the cable—skin oils can damage them and interrupt the connection. If you touch them by mistake, clean them with a little isopropyl alcohol and give them a few moments to air dry.

Like me, you may have accidentally touched the speaker, springs or 4 gold contacts on the cable. I used the tweezers to remove the speaker but it magnetically got stuck to the tweezers so I removed it with my fingers and accidentally touched the contacts. Use your own judgement, but I've had good results using a tiny amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and cleaning these 4 gold contacts and the springs on the speaker piece. Beats replacing the speaker for $25. Perhaps the #iFixitTeam can lend some advice on this step, in addition to the warning about not touching it. :-)

Brian Hernandez - Reply

Man, great guide getting to the speaker, but I have to replace the mesh as well. Not sure why we couldn't just include that in the guide since we already went this far! Doesn't seem to be anything too good on google results for this last step either... bah!

TheFranko NoneYa - Reply

I have had problems with two phones after replacing a screen. The sensor that turns off screen when talking does not turn off screen. May this be because i touched this contacts?

Ronny - Reply

That's a problem with your proximity sensor (tiny thing with 2 'eyes'), which is on the same flex cable as the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

Hi Ronny, im having the same problem. have you found a solution for it? if u have, please help me out

Fabius Pradeep -

Make sure the screen that protects the speaker is free of ear wax. It can be stopped up with ear wax and limit the output of the earpiece speaker. About 50% of the ones I have come across this was the cause of low earpiece volume. Use a small nylon hobby paint brush dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol to clean it.

scottingram - Reply

  • Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.

i have a question.

my homebutton cable was broken. so i bought front plate.

and i have original home button too.

so, if i change broken plate and new plate, can i using touch id??

kjh657 - Reply

You should actually be commenting in a home button step (such as 30), so you get the right visibility. But if by front plate you mean the display (digitizer, lcd, and front glass) then no, this will NOT fix touch id problems. If the problem is damage to the home button out it's attached cable you are out of luck, as those are unique to each iPhone. However if the ribbon cable (the one attached to the large shield) is damaged, then that is replaceable. A new lcd shield should come with the home button ribbon attached, or you can buy the ribbon separately and just replace that. The shield is much easier to replace and about the same cost.

Charlie Yarbrough -

When replacing, make sure the proximity sensor is replaced correctly and seated fully inside the plastic bracket. Not doing so can cause loss of functionality in the sensor preventing the lcd from turning off when it's supposed to during calls etc.

Charlie Yarbrough - Reply

Could you explain this any further? I recently replaced this because of a bad microphone and now the proximity sensor isn't working. I transferred the plastic/rubber gasket/bracket thingy over. I've disassembled and reassembled the thing 3 times to make sure the sensor is properly seated, no luck. The ambient light sensor for auto brightness works just fine, which I think is actually the one with the plastic part, unless I'm missing something?

Is it possible the new cable assembly just has a bad sensor?

Bennet Pullen -

I confirm what you say. Bought a phone with proximity sensor not working. Turns out it didn't have the plastic bracket where you put the sensor in.. :)

Didier Daniel -

I think I’m having the same problem. When I removed the ambient light sensor, the black brick that seems to be the proximity sensor pulled off the cable and I had to pry it off the face. I had a great deal of difficulty lining up the two parts even after getting both of the little liners in place. I’m not sure what I could do to improve the alignment. The speaker, mic and camera are all working fine.

Tom Comeau -

When reassembling, ensure that the plastic bracket for the proximity sensor is removed from your old cable assembly and that you put it with the new cable. I found that if you put the plastic bracket in the recess in the front panel first to ensure that you get it in correctly.

Christopher - Reply

It is crucial that you make sure that the little black plastic bracket around the ambient light sensor is removed with it when lifting it out of the recess. It is very easy to not notice that it stayed in the recess and really difficult to make out any difference between the removed cable and the replacement cable. It took me a few tries to realize that the bracket was still in place and was why I couldn’t seat the replacement cable properly.

dhcohen67 - Reply

BLACK plastic bracket???? As this is crucial, I have been trying to locate a black bracket for the last hour or so, magnifying these images, watching different youtube videos etc … is there definitely a black bracket? Or could you be referring to the CLEAR plastic bracket that can be (just about) seen next to the white recess of the Ambient Sensor, in the pictures of this step?

I would also like contributors to comment on the WHITE recess of the Ambient sensor (a shown in the pictures of this step). I have a replacement screen that does not have a white recess, it is completely black (looks like it is ‘just a hole’ going through to the glass on the front). I can see no way of removing the white ‘cover’ from the original screen …does it matter?

Chris K -

  • Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.

When I was replacing my cable, I had part of the old cable stay in the in the front panel and had to remove it before I could put my new cable in during this step.

Christopher - Reply

  • Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel.

oddly enough my replacement screen didn't come with the earpiece rubber or front-facing camera clear "recess" pieces. Prying them off my old screen was tedious and in the end I didn't have new adhesive to apply. What would you guys recommend?

Brian Hernandez - Reply

I had to remove it completely and then apply some glue, very tiny just to keep it in place. However, my replacement part does come with an adhesive for the microphone.

azriaris1 -

Just pry gently with a small screwdriver in the upper right corner and the glue will drop

Kvalvik69 - Reply

My replacement part had a clear plastic that you need to remove so the microphone will stick. It is very thin so I pulled out the whole rubber part a few times before being able just to remove the clear plastic that shields the glue (part bought from ifixit.com)

Christian van der Leeden - Reply

I had the impression the double sided adhesive strip is thicker than normal under the microphone, and found it more difficult to lift than in other areas (other than the home button connector, which is adhered to a metal backing, making it extremely difficult). Fortunately, I did not rip the ribbon. Perhaps applying some heat would be advised.

Q Why is there a microphone in the ‘earpiece’? Surely there must be a microphone nearer the bottom (where your mouth would be). Are there two, perhaps for speaker/conference?

Chris K - Reply

[|My microphone came with a small tab out to the left that was for adhesive. I peeled the white protection off and folded the copper colored adhesive tab under the microphone. Worked fine.]

W4MWD - Reply

Back on the air again! Great site for me to save money and keep my phone going after grandson “fixed it”.

W4MWD - Reply

  • Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable from the front panel.

Before installing the new cable you might need to do the following. I just did this installation last night and I had to do these things. 1) There is a clear plastic piece that goes around the sensor. It might have stayed in the phone face or it might have come out. If it came out it needs to be installed around the sensor. 2) There definitely will be a little black plastic cover over the notification LED. That needs to be taken off the old cable and put on the new cable and in the right direction. 3) On my new cable there were 2 copper colored protectors that needed to be removed before installing the new cable. Remove those. 4) The cable to the front facing camera is too long. Notice where the excess cable was bunched up on the old cable. This was a difficult fix. The parts are so small. Assembling the area around the speaker is difficult. There are multiple places where the cables slip over little plastic bumps. Knowing about those little plastic points will help.

Kent - Reply

My phone isnt powering on after changing screen. Proximity sensor is broken could this be why?

kyler - Reply

  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

My new part had the left home button bracket screw installed. You need to remove it (and can re-use it) before putting the home button bracket back on. If you are attempting this repair, you probably don’t need this tip. But just in case!

eschrank - Reply

Confirming what eschrank said. When re-assembling the home button onto the new front panel assembly remove the pre-installed screw, place the home bracket on the assembly then re-use the pre-installed screw to fasten the home bracket (left side).

Gregory Hall - Reply

  • Remove the home button bracket from the front panel.

It is possible to over-tighten these screws, causing the home button to malfunction.

doog - Reply

It is also possible for the tiny metal piece (not really a screw) that goes over the center of the home button to come out of the bracket & be lost, which will cause issues for making contact when the button is pressed. Now I can't seem to find any kits with a complete replacement...not sure if this is going to affect my fingerprint id capability because I'm having another issue of my phone being disabled due to the cracked lcd that caused the security code to be input several times which has locked me out completely. I'm still trying to find a way to not lose the pictures and videos that I haven't downloaded to my computer. Anyone have any ideas on either issue? Thanks in advance! ;-)

Dawn - Reply

Are the home buttons for a 6 plus and 6s plus interchangeable?

Sheila Smith - Reply

  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button.

During this step, I couldn't separate the two connectors. I accidentally managed to tear the flex cable which passes under the LCD shield/plate and up to the other LCD connectors which attach to the motherboard. Can this cable be replaced to restore Touch ID functionality if everything else is intact?

I can't see any special chip on that part, just seems like an I/O connector?

James - Reply

Yep you can. Touch ID functionality won't be lost.

Didier Daniel -

I have managed to separate the connector with quite a lot of patience and perseverance. Although there is no sign of physical damage on either side (button end, button-cable/plate end) the Touch ID functionality was lot. Assuming that the damaged side is that of the button cable/plate, this item is not sold on the EU store.

Massimo Pinto -

I have found by gently heating the broken screen side with a heat gun or reworker, it makes removing the home button and the connector so much easier to remove with the tip of the spudger and a press on the home button from the front side

darren - Reply

  • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply mild heat (with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer) and try again.

I used a hair dryer on this part. It made removing the home button extremely easy. Just take it slow

peterhubner - Reply

I too used a hair dryer and slow pressure as did Peter. I found that the adhesive would slowly release if I just held a little constant pressure with my finger and waited.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

This being my first time I found that this step and the following steps to be the most difficult and time consuming. It required A LOT of patience because the rubber membrane and the adhesive holding the cable really don’t want to release without sufficient heating and I was concerned about overheating the assembly. Using a hair dryer on the slowest setting finally worked.

fiftysomething - Reply

Cette étape demande vraiment de la patience. J’ai juste attendu en exerçant une faible pression et au bout d’un moment ça s’est décollé.

Il ne faut pas mettre trop de pression et avoir un bon éclairage pour voir l’état de la membrane au fur et à mesure.

Chloé Bossuette - Reply

  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

Don't get in a hurry with the ribbon. Heat and a gradual constant pressure did the trick.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully separate the home button cable from the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • If the cable doesn't separate easily, apply heat using an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again. Be careful not to damage the cable.

This step really requires patience- I had to heat the area several times and “spudge” from both sides before the cable successfully loosened. Even under a strong magnifying glass, it will look like the middle section with the tiny circuit board is fused into the plastic, but it’s just strong adhesive, which eventually softens.

Dan - Reply

Dan, is there any source that indicates the maximum temperatures to which you can heat the different areas of an iPhone when necessary to loosen adhesives? Or time/power parameters for specific heat guns?

Tomas Delaveau -

This part almost killed me. In the video, they’ve already loosened the adhesive so she pops it right off. The hair dryer should be set to hot and low blowing. It’ll take a few minutes & a few tries) to loosen the adhesive. I aimed at all sides of the cable (ie at both ends where the cable meets the case & straight on at the circuit board). To finally get it off, I mixed up using a spudger to play with it and a very fine tweezer to finally get a good enough grip to pull the button assembly off.

dhcohen67 - Reply

I believe is better to heat the panel from te outside because the heat transfer would flow in a way that the adhesive will be at a higher temperature than the cable

Tomas Delaveau - Reply

  • Once all the adhesive has been separated, remove the home button from the front panel.

    • If you are replacing a broken front panel, there may be glass shards stuck to the home button. Carefully remove any remaining glass before transferring your home button to a new display.

  • Your replacement part may come with an extra Phillips screw already installed left of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

One thing to note for re-assembly. You have to make sure the home button is firmly in place. Otherwise, a lack of adhesive will cause the home button to sink into the iPhone after it's fully assembled when you try to press it.

rskrobe - Reply

Are you sure that you screwed the metal plate back in far enough? I don't have any issues and can't believe that Apple would rely on adhesive to hold the home button from sinking into the phone. Especially as it's the most pressed button on the iPhone.

Thomas Hallett -

Yeah, you have to buy new gaskets if you want you're home button to stick to the digitizer frame when pressing. Don't believe me? Just see what happens when you press the button without new adhesive :) And heck I bought 50 gaskets for only $5 from China.

Didier Daniel -

On the old screen,there were 2 little rubber covers that fit on the screw mounts (that hold the pentalobe screws from Step 1) that I transferred to the new part.

jefowler4th - Reply

I would add a few extra steps to this (i had to disassemble and reassemble 5 times).

First, adding the Ifixit forward facing camera replacement, and I would add the steps 12-16 fromt his guide on how to take off the heat shield (also has the fingerprint cable).

http://www.instructables.com/id/iPhone-6...

Thanks again.

Roland Bodenheim - Reply

after placing the home button again, it dose not read my finger prints anymore! any idea? Thanks.

Khal Sh - Reply

For all the iphone 6 series once the original home button ribbon is torn or damaged the touch ID will never work again. Even if you replace the home button/ribbon. This is a security feature implemented by Apple. Once the original cable for the phone has been damaged or replaced, the touch ID functionality is gone forever.

Tony - Reply

Dear After replacing the cracked screen successfully I turn it ON and the apple logo keeps coming and going as if it is like rebooting continuously any IDEA?

Cesar

cesarclaudio - Reply

I'm having the same issue. Did you ever get a response to your question?

Kevin Rivera -

This is missing a step ... most replacement screen assemblies also are missing a small metal plate that sits under the place where the home button connector and flex cable connector rest. Apparently without this metal the touch ID cannot be enabled. That said .. I'll not know on this phone since after following these directions and finding out I needed to pull apart the home button a second time to place this metal plate there the connector would not separate and it ripped the flex cable from the connectors completely. Now it's time to get a new home button and touch ID will never work on this phone again :(

cueball - Reply

My new screen comes with the home button cable, if I just swap the original home button to the new front panal will I retain touch ID? Or do I need the original cable too?

nathanation - Reply

if you want touch id to work the cable going from the home button to the logic board must be changed also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEWAQiu...

Eric Ocegueda - Reply

That isn't what my home button looks like? It didn't have the little sensor on it, just the button and it still worked but now doesn't... Anyone know why?

Emie Jayne - Reply

despues de serguir la guia fue exitosa solo que tengo un problema no reconoce la huella me dice error al configurar el touch id alguna solucion???

CHARLES - Reply

When I was transferring my home button, it was covered in tiny shards of glass as the instructions warned. I found I was able to remove many of the shards and to clean up the button by wrapping a piece of scotch tape around my finger sticky side out and then gently dabbing at the shards.

davechar - Reply

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205628

Does this iOS update mean that it is no longer necessary to replace the cable going from the home button to the logic board as well?

Peter Barnett - Reply

The only “problem” that I had, was that the home button connector on the iFixit replacement screen assembly was “floating” and made it very difficult initially to connect the home button cable connector. i eventually glued it down to the screen assembly with some Pritt glue and the connection was easy.

Peter Barnett - Reply

Thanks for everything.

I just bout the Fix Kit from iFixit, I did every step 9-11 times, carefully. Everytime I try to turn on the phone when everything is assembled it won’t turn on. The screen remains black eventhough the phone is on and itunes can detect it. if I put the broken screen back I get the creen powered on.

Is my recently aquired screen replacement broken? Thanks

Will - Reply

Solved. The new screen was not working. I now hace some stains on the upper part of the screen.

Will -

I had set my phone up as an erased “new iPhone” prior to the repair. After completing this repair my Touch ID appeared to be working normally and I added 4 fingerprint profiles. After a few hours Touch ID failed and the fingerprint profiles disappeared. Attempting to add them again would not work. After performing a “Hard Reset” the previously entered fingerprints returned and functionallity has been completely normal for a couple of days now. I will repost if another failure occurs.

Steve Mattson - Reply

When moving original home button to new screen, a tiny dab of adhesive from a Pritt Stick helped hold the cable onto the front panel. Great guide, all worked well, and touch ID working, thanks.

Mike Cowley - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD shield plate to the front panel:

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • Six 1.6 mm screws (three on each side)

I just cant get those screws out! im stuck.

kntinos10 - Reply

I to am stuck at this point on two screws any solution.

Janice Scott -

I, too, am having enormous problems removing all these screws. The first 1.7 mm came out without trouble, but the 6, 1.6mm screws are terrible. I've made it down to the last one and I'm afraid that the screw head is becoming stripped. I'm working with about a half-dozen tiny-headed Philips head screw drivers and am no longer getting any "bite" to turn the screw.

ellamama - Reply

You need to press pretty hard with the driver in order to get it to bite. If necessary, hold the flat of your spudger behind the screw so you can apply more pressure without bending or breaking anything. If you've completely stripped the screw, you might be able to get away with just snipping the metal tab off with a pair of wire cutters and letting the other five or six screws do the job alone. Otherwise, you'll probably need to replace the entire display assembly (one that comes with a new shield already installed).

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

I’ve tried to take out the screws for around half an hour and failed, put everything back together and ordered a new set of tools. Started the whole process again today only to get stuck here again. I just can’t get them out.

Kauther - Reply

  • Lift the front-facing camera end of the LCD shield plate up slightly.

    • Do not attempt to remove the shield plate entirely, it is still attached to the front panel by the adhered-down home button cable.

impossible to unscrew the last 3 screws. help!

suesamp - Reply

where you able to unscrew the last screws? i'm having the same problem but only with 2

Hector Torres -

When assembling back the shield plate, you have to ensure that the LCD cable (the one with the long metal) is put under the shield plate.

azriaris1 - Reply

  • Slide the point of a spudger behind the shield plate to gently peel the home button cable up off of the front panel.

    • Be extremely cautious as you peel the home button cable. It is a fragile cable. If you feel more than slight resistance, stop and apply some heat from a hair dryer or iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

  • Remove the LCD shield plate.

I have found that using a fresh razor blade is a little easier than the spudger alone. First lift up the small tab on the left of the connector. Then very carefully slide a corner of the razor blade under the left corner of the connector, making sure you are under the metal backing. Slightly lift up with the razor blade to make room for the spudger. Slowly lift the connector with the spudger and viola, it should come loose!

Damon - Reply

Absolutely, I had to do this on my last iPhone 6 repair. I was worried that I'd ripped the ribbon cable slightly but I was fortunate and it hadn't torn.

Kronkk37 -

Golden advice ! From now on I'm doing it the same way. So much easier and safer ;) Thanks buddy !

Didier Daniel -

I spent 15 minutes trying to do this with just the spudger. I went and got a razor blade and had the cable off in 30 sec!!! this is definetly the easiest way to do it

Aria Farahani -

There is a metal part attached to the bottom of the ribbon. Be careful to pull that up and not attempt to separate the ribbon from the metal. I started doing this and it took a good deal of force and then finally got enough light to see that I could get under the metal. The metal comes up much easier.

holtkamp4 - Reply

Thank you sooooooo mutch ! I was doing exactly the same thing !

Drissouille -

Heat up the area first and use a metal spludger to lift up under the metal plate, when heated, it lifts very easy.

Glen - Reply

I've had one flex fail (even though not physically damaged), by lifting the heat shield up and removing the connector that way. The result is the phone does not register properly with button, and Touch ID doesn't work. I now use a fine point tweezer to get in under the metal plate on the rear of the connector with a bit of heat. This seems to be the least invasive way of doing it. You need to check Touch ID is registering after each screen change due to the possibility of Error 53.

Matthew Kerr - Reply

In my opinion, using a razor blade is extremely risky. In fact, I won't even use a spudger, because I find this cable to be very fragile. Here's what I do: Firstly, heat an iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds, remove it for 2 minutes, then return it to the microwave for a further 30 seconds so it's extra warm. Secondly, lay the iOpener flat directly on top of the connecter for 90 seconds to loosen the adhesive. Thirdly, move the iOpener out of the way, then with one hand, lift the metal plate from the top end (closest to the front facing camera) to a 45 degree angle, or just enough so with your other hand you can fit your thumb under the flex cable towards the bottom of the metal plate. Now you want to grip the flex cable with your thumb underneath and your index finger on top as close as possible to the connector itself, then slowly and carefully lift both the plate and flex cable simultaneously towards the bottom of the phone. I found this video to be helpful: http://youtu.be/mh-cbErzGNo

Jayden Monkley - Reply

You can see a pull-tab on the left side from a chip (which is glued to the surface under it). This pull-tab is free to take - no glue under it. Just grab it and gently move to the right - to the chip. It's the easiest way to unglue this home button cable. No blade or other stuff needed!

dv1977 - Reply

I agree with dv1977, the black pull-tab on the left side of the chip is a great starting point. Heat will also help, so use an iOpener or something similar to heat the glue.

Tobias -

Seconded! This should be the only way to do it. It's really difficult to get the spudger under the metal underside of the ribbon cable otherwise!

Thomas Hallett -

Yes I agree to you. This should be the original orientation and not use the spudger for that.

Jupiter -

Hi @dv1977, are you saying the black tab shown in the third picture of this step (almost directly where the point of spudger is), would have pulled the home button and connector ‘easily’ off? Wow, if that is the case, this step should be updated by iFixit. I completely ripped mine as I followed the ‘LCD Shield Replacement’ guide, which gave the impression it was a ‘simple’ matter of carefully (and persistently) using the point of a spudger. I have bought a new shield, in the hope the cable is ‘just wires’, and the intelligence (id) is within the actual button assembly.

Chris K -

UPDATE: My replacement shield/attached ribbon, works perfectly. No loss of touch ID.

Chris K -

I just did my first swap ever on a 6, and I had the phone powered back on and all components tested within about 3 minutes. I've changed hundreds of 4, 5, 5c, and 5s though, so I'm sure that experience helped. I didn't have to disconnect the battery at all, just very careful with how I removed everything. If you can afford it, GET THE FIX KIT. I've got a whole container of leftover tools from other screens and I didn't even touch them. I used the new fix kit and it helped so much. Transplanting the old home button was a breeze, nothing torn at all. RTFM like I did, and anyone should be able to swap any of these components without an issue.

kylemmancuso - Reply

Removing this cable is rather tricky if you follow the instructions in the manual. I think i repaired about 20 iPhone 6's by now, all using a metal spudger or a boxcutter knife. How? Gently lift black ribbon as seen on the pictury, starting on the left side as seen on the picture. Once you see the small metal connector, which is attached with a mild adhesive, stop pulling. Gently wedge the metal spudger under the connector, starting at the bottom left. With a mild pressure the connector will simply "pop off". If it doenst work with the spudger, try using a boxcotter, just be careful you put it under the connector and not between the cable and the connector.

Kenneth Hordijk - Reply

Doesn't replacing this effect Touch ID

simon chieng - Reply

As long as it is done successfully, Touch ID will not be impacted.

TheJB -

I failed the last part and i broked the cabel is there anything what i can do?

samisaukkonen91 - Reply

If the cable is broken, you'll need to purchase a home button assembly and install it in your phone. You'll lose Touch ID functionality, but all other home button functions should act as normal.

--

iPhone 6 and 6 Plus Home Button Assembly

TheJB -

During this step, I did mistakenly disconnect the cable from the metal connector underneath. However, I was able to remove the metal connector using a spudger and transfer it to the new screen along with the home button cable assembly. Fortunately, touch ID still worked, in addition to all standard home button functions.

--

I do think it would be great if iFixIt could add a note about this metal connector during this step as it plays a very important role.

TheJB - Reply

I did the same thing! How do you reconnect the metal plate???

Ian Hodgson - Reply

Watch out for the metal under the connector! I speant 15 min trying to get the connector unstuck and I didn't even realize you were supposed to remove the metal as well and leave it attached. Ripped my cable because of this (luckily it was an already-broken practice phone). Very important!

Landon McCoy - Reply

Don't try to use a spudger behind the metal plate. It is extremely difficult as you can't see if you really could reach the metal under the connector. I ripped the cable doing this way! You better try to reach under the metal from the bottom of connector (not from behind the metal plate!)

Yang - Reply

SUPER HELPFUL! Very much appreciated. Thank you!

JRKoop - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Did this replacement and the finger scaner stop working. I didnt damge anything im a experienced technician the button still worked but the finger print doest work. I thought the firmware was corrupted and I updated the phone. It now shows an error and can not be restore to normal functionality, its stuck in restore mode . I had to reassemble the phone and set it to pay and paid a fee for a new one.

matthewlevy300 - Reply

Wow man, i'm sorry to hear that.. Hate that kinda things.

Niels Aasted -

I have same issue , i tried many time to restore the phone after Touch ID failed , but restore cant be completed because of error #53 ,

basilaldossari -

Same problem! Same backround! Need help :/

mmummler -

Is there any more reason to disconnect the battery on the 6 than any previous iPhone? I've repaired countless 5,5c and 5S without disconnecting the battery. Never a problem.

DNATECH LONDON -

I had this issue once, with an apparently broken TouchID when the cable was perfectly preserved and everything.

I played around with some spare parts and it turned out that the culprit was that the display was not OEM- the TouchID has to pass info through the display to the motherboard and non-OEM displays disrupt this process.

The way to fix this is to purchase a new display again from a more reliable source that has a trustworthy OEM claim.

a059970 -

nice guide, but you forgot about really important point

disconnect battery before you will d something with lcd connectors

you don't won't to damage board by some short circuit

bers - Reply

Agreed. It's a serious omission.

Many times it won't matter, but occasionally something will touch in the wrong place and *plink* the phone is broken.

Paul L Daniels -

yes, it's a nice idea

xixili -

ok just swapped a lcd and home button flex cable that connects to the motherboard. Now the phone is not turning on at all... Plugged in does not show any charging and has no heat coming from the phone at all. Testing to see if lcd backlight is damaged does not show anything as the vibration button switched does nothing

Anything else helpful might help with this.

JasonW - Reply

I have the same problem. Have you fixed this?

amyleighox -

On step 34, every attempt I have to pry that sensor cable off the front housing I keep breaking the cable. Any idea on how to effectively remove it so I don't have to keep re-purchasing this part?

jta0017 - Reply

Warm it up a bit with a heatgun, makes the bonding adhesive a bit softer and you can then lift it up safely with a spudger.

Paul L Daniels -

Same problem, same backround! Dont really know what to do! Did you find an answer?

mmummler - Reply

Shouldn't there be a disconnect-battery step, before attempting to remove the screen cable hold-down panel?

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Hi, I managed all the disassembly fine getting all the cables off safely and remembering to take the battery lead off, however now its together the screen works but the digitalizer is very sluggish and feels not as sensitive. You need to put a whole finger on it rather than just your tip. Has anybody had anything similar?

Andrew P - Reply

Hi Andrew, I have the same problem, how did you fix it?

lt33 -

I've read that aftermarket screens react slower. I'm not 100% sure tho, so you'll have to check if that information is correct.

Didier Daniel -

Hi

The last step in screen reassembly, when pressing the bottom Bart of the screen, I broke the lower part of the screen.

Seems like so thing is pushing it up.

Don't know what to do,,,, very !#^&@@ off....

Be careful

eliasgh - Reply

I have the same issue. Did you ever figure out what to do?

Jody -

Is there a guide to replace the glass only?

Marc Hershey - Reply

Don't do it! I strongly discourage! I am in the midst of it and its just not worth it.

Brenda -

You're not going to want to do this Marc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VRnOwyQ...

cazrnbsn -

I took the front screen off to fix some water damage. I put it back together and started charging the phone. I am getting white lines on the screen but the touch screen is not working. Help!

John G - Reply

Sounds like you might have damaged the digitiser where the cable exits. Very easy to do. Happened to me once and I didn't notice at all at the time

rpaschke -

I can't workout if the LCD Screen is glued to the Digitizer, on the phone the LCD is working it's just the front panel... will they separate ?

Wayne Taylor - Reply

LCD is fused to the digitizer. You need to scrape off and rebond the glass if you want to just replace the glass. You need a UV light and UV glue in order to fuse the new glass to the old digitizer. It's easier to just replace the whole thing but it's slightly more expensive to do so.

ryanatakahashi -

They are laminated together at the factory. But with some very expensive tools and the right equipment, it can be done. As you will see on this video, the edges of the glass & digitizer have to be heated and then separated with dental floss and then the adhesive has to be removed with a hot blade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VRnOwyQ...

cazrnbsn -

I didn't take the battery out. I disembaled and reassembled everything carefully without damaging anything but now my phone won't turn on! Is there anything I can do?

csi - Reply

basically IOS 9 made t so if you update your phone with a different fingerprint scanner than your phone came with you get an error 53 upon updating theirs really nothing you can do to help that, just a heads up don't replace Touch ID!

benjigarcia19 - Reply

Followed this guide to replace the broken glass panel on my iPhone 6. I took my time and worked slowly as this was the first iPhone I've ever disassembled. After reading some of the comments, I did disconnect the battery between steps 9 & 10 before doing any of the following procedures. I had some tense moments removing the camera and the home button. They were glued down pretty well, but I eventually got them off. Assembling was pretty easy, but one thing to take notice of is the order of the ribbons attached to the screen. I had to take the camera out twice because the ribbons were not in the correct order to connect back to the power board. Also my home button cord got disconnected when I was putting the case back together. On power-up the button did not work. I had to go back in and remove the plate surrounding those cables and found it was disconnected. I put everything back together and it is working perfectly. No issues with the screen, the cameras, the home button, or the finger print reader. Success!

robstewart - Reply

How did you replace the cables that were in the wrong order? Im having the same problem!

laurensmolic -

So did you use a different Home Button or a replacement? My understanding was that if a replacement is used, then the fingerprint reader will no longer work. The original home button is synced to that phone and no other fingerprint reader will work with it. Just interested. I'm getting ready to do this myself. Have a great day and thanks for posting.

cazrnbsn -

My first tip is if this is your first breakage, and your phone has never been opened, just take it to Apple, it's £79 in the UK, cheaper than buying the screen from most places, and you know it's legit. Onto my SUCCESS, it took a while after numerous minor errors putting it all back together, but after going over the images again, I succeeded. Don't get me wrong, this wasn't a walk in the park, but steady hands and perseverance and you'll get there. For a while I was getting two errors when trying to get it back up and running, and it was stuck in restore mode. I had both 9 and -18 error codes. However, after going back into the iPhone, and popping all the cables off at step 12-15 and then reseating them again. It finally got going again ready for me to test it all. The only other problem was the touch button, but after reseating it a couple of times, I realised I was screwing it up too tight and so finally got it to work. So relieved & happy, but my next iPhone I'm just going straight to Apple.

DanO - Reply

Followed the guide step by step, not a single issue! Thank you!

SMcC21985 - Reply

My first time ever taking apart any phone. Did the fix in about an hour. Be careful with the adhesive on the home button. Mine got a bit mangled and although the button still works like it should, gone is the 'click' sound that it used to have (which I'm actually happy about). Otherwise, great instructions!

david - Reply

I removed my OEM screen then refitted it, and bam! - no more Touch ID :-( Also when the iPhone's screen's gone black (after timeout), it no longer wakes up with the home button!? I have to press the power button now to wake it up, then enter the passcode. Boring!

I then bought a new display online, did the same repair again and replace the screen (with my original home button/camera/mic/speaker etc) and it's still the same: I now have a nice new screen (no longer cracked), but no touch id and no wakeup with home button.

Interestingly, when I try to set up the touch id, it goes to the touch id setup screen, and then immediately gives this error message: "Unable to complete Touch ID setup. Please go back and try again."

Also, when I try updating to OS 9.2.1 (already downloaded), it 'verifies update', then gives this error message: "Unable to Install Update An error occurred installind IOS 9.2.1."

The options are 'Retry' (same result) or 'Remind Me Later'.

Now what!?

naughtyG - Reply

Did you ever remedy this? Had the EXACT same issue and stumped as to why it's occuring - very strange...

Topper -

same for me, moved the original home button to the new screen. all but this is well: my touch id is gone, and no wake up with home button. need to tap power button to wake it up, if the phone has been resting for a while.

omniraal -

Found my error for the same problem: my home button cable had been slightly damaged, i had to look extremely thoroughly on the connector. I bought a new cable and followed the guide here on ifixit.com, and boom: perfect result! Phone is now as good as new!

omniraal -

I changed my screen and now my earpeice does not work, cant here people talking, only can hear on speaker phone. Front camara works and so does the proxy sensor. I might have touched the flex cable connector for those components so i was thinking maybe oil from my finger might be the problem with not hearing people talking. What would be the best way to clean it and see if thats the problem. Or any other ideas would be great .

Greg - Reply

Did you get a resolution to your problem? I am having the same issue. I am thinking maybe I should just buy a new ear piece but wanted to see if there was another option first.

Jennifer Reese -

Thanks!

Worked like a charm with iFixit replacement screen (and a small pack of snacks found in ifixit box). Touch ID came out pretty easy after heating up the glass just a bit and works without issues after replacement.

Pavlo Sulimenko - Reply

Did you replace the Home Button as well? And if you did, did your fingerprint ID work? Or were you able to salvage the original Home Button? I hear that's where all the fingerprint ID issues are coming from. Thanks, Darrell

cazrnbsn -

Question about the battery removal.

I followed the instructions,(which did not include removing the battery). Disassemble went great. Reassemble didn't work so good as my patience is fried and I want to take to a repair store to let them do it. They refused it saying b/c I did not remove the battery, I created an electrical arc and they wouldn't touch it. Before I do it myself, is this true? I see above people also did not remove the battery and it worked fine. Pros? Cons? Advice?

Brenda - Reply

The list of needed tools and parts for this repair could be more clear. The repair kit should be listed at top (it's not listed at all). Also, the repair kit page lists the "iOpener" tool as required but that tool is not used for this repair.

dtype1 - Reply

Followed the guide step by step, not a single issue! I've never replaced or repaired anything on an iPhone before so this was my first try at anything like this. Instructions were great and everything went perfect! Thank you!

troyhowatt - Reply

I replaced the rear lens on my phone. followed the steps to disassemble and reassembled. My phone now won't turn on. But when I plug into PC the PC recognises the phone. No vibrations etc coming from the phone. Tried charging and the camera felt a bit warm. Any ideas?

amyleighox - Reply

I am having a lot of trouble reattaching the cable connectors . They seem to be in the wrong order. Any suggestions??

laurensmolic - Reply

I finished. The first time I assembled everything all was working perfectly except for the earpiece - I couldn't hear anything. I saw on another posted question that someone responded that the gold prongs on the the earpiece had to be aligned "just right", or it wouldn't work. Additionally, the metal cover shouldn't be screwed in too tightly. I realigned and was a little less restrictive with my screw tightening - and now I am up and running. I am so happy! I totally ruined my screen and really was shocked that it still worked. Thank you to everyone who takes the time to give advice and assitance!

Alison - Reply

Yeah, did it and it works!!!! soooooooo happy!!!!!!!

Nina Potenza - Reply

Touch ID stopped working after the replacement. What could be wrong?

lvb - Reply

I dropped my phone several days ago and now the screen won't display anything. My wife has the same phone as I do. I swapped displays with hers and I still didn't get anything. Any idea what else I could check?

Cliff Roebuck - Reply

Hey Cliff. Usually, (if you didn't break your screen) all that has happened is that one of your ribbon cable connections on the inside of the phone has come loose or partially unplugged. There are a lot of other things that could have happened but this is an easy DIY check before you take it to someone who will most assuredly ask for a substantial amout of your hard-earned cash. Now, you will have to order an iPhone repair kit unless you have Pentalobe screwdrivers. But this little tool kit can come in handy for more than just your phone. Here's a video that might help you out if you can tolerate his loud voice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny8mHGHX... .

There are many kits out there but here's something on Amazon for you to gauge by. https://www.amazon.com/Warmstor-Complete...

Good luck to you and let me know if this works for you.

cazrnbsn -

i have a question.

my homebutton cable was broken. so i bought front plate.

and i have original home button too.

so, if i change broken plate and new plate, can i using touch id??

kjh657 - Reply

Yes. If you change the cable on the plate, your Touch ID will still work if it's the original button. It's only when you change the button itself that Touch ID functionality is lost.

Didier Daniel -

Hello all,

Just did this without breaking any cables, or so I thought...

Reassembled everything and phone turned on (success) but I have lost the touch ID capability, the home button still works so I can use the phone but is this a security measure from apple? I used the existing home button.

Thanks

Tom - Reply

First time ever replacing a iPhone 6 lcd and screen, love the pics, you make it very easy to follow!! :-)

apriltanner1975 - Reply

I'm doing a screen replacement with a new screen that doesn't already have the home button cable attached to the digitizer. How do I get the cable from the old screen to the new one so I can connect the home button?

juliamcrae - Reply

Exactly what was expected for an experienced tech.

Excellent guide!!

Thanks Monte

monte - Reply

Completed the guide but my screen is not flush with the body any more. But it was no problem putting it in. TouchID etc. are working fine, it is more in the middle part where the screen has a noticable height (bump). I have the impression it is higher than the original part (the eustore.ifixit.com front cover). But happy that the display works!

Christian van der Leeden - Reply

If the display doesn't properly clip in, be sure all the cables are properly arranged, and make sure your battery hasn't swollen up. If you have issues, don't hesitate to contact EU customer support!

Sam Lionheart -

Is it necessary to buy all parts listed at the top right? I thought only a screen would be needed of that is what has been damaged.

William Mullan - Reply

The parts listed at the top are the parts that can be replaced using this guide. If you're just replacing the screen, you only need to buy the screen =)

Sam Lionheart -

On the *very last step* of disassembly the home button cable would *not* come up. It finally tore. Post mortem analysis showed that it took a *lot* of pressure to remove it -- I don't know how one would get this off without tearing. I am going to go cry now. Bye.

Wayne Cochran - Reply

For the home button, it helps to lift a corner of the gasket from it's adhesive to the phone, then work it up from there. So sorry it tore :(

bwojciehowski -

Hi guys, did this today, all works well except:

- i have some irregular white vertical lines. They come and go

- sometimes I have green dots on the left of the screen. They also come and go (but come more seldom)

- the display looks odd. Just as if the resolution was not the correct one

I tried re-opening and checking the display data connector, it looks like it's in place.

Any idea? All went well except: during re-assembly, the display data and the front camera ribbons got mixed up so for a couple of minutes I was trying to insert the front camera ribbon into the display connector ... Hope I didn't damage it :(

Any help is welcome.

Guillaume Klein - Reply

When re-assembling I accidently switched the front facing connector and the digitizer, which broke the digitizer socket on the main board. Now the phone is bricked. Please notice that you need to guide the digitizer cable under the other cables after mounting the back plate, otherwise it is easy to switch the two long connectors, and then you breake the socket and your phone is dead.

Tom - Reply

Hello, my Iphone 6's screen was broken. I bought a new one.

I read these differents steps but at the end my new screen doesn't work.

I used a torch and i could see the apple, the message very slightly I thought i have a problem with my backlight but i don't know what i can do!!!

I bought another screen but i had the same problem!

Please help me!! thanks

KLEBER - Reply

Good guide for pretty much every step except for removing the home button ribbon cable during the LCD shield plate (step 37) look at dv1997's comment! This is a much easier and safer way of doing things! There is a metal plate which is part of the underside of the ribbon cable which is very difficult to get the spudger under by going under the shield plate. It's much easier to get it from the front using the ribbon cable pull tab on the side.

Thomas Hallett - Reply

A cutter / utility blade can do wonders too :)

Didier Daniel -

Just successfully finished replacing a screen using this guide, for my very first time. In total, it took me three hours, taking breaks in-between and reading through all comments that have been posted.

---

My best advice is to be patient and take your time with each step. The most tedious steps were #22-26 (front camera assembly), #31 (home button) and #37 (home button cable). Be patient and read all comments regarding these steps.

---

During step #37, I did mistakenly disconnect the cable from the metal connector underneath. However, I was able to remove the metal connector and transfer it to the new screen along with the home button cable assembly. Fortunately, touch ID still works, in addition to all standard home button functions. I do think it would be great if iFixIt could add a note about this metal connector during this step; it plays a very important role.

---

I used only tools from the iFixIt "Classic Pro Tech Toolkit", in addition to an iSesamo. I purchased the replacement screen from iFixIt.

TheJB - Reply

Good guide! Everything worked perfectly fine and I had no problems along the way :)

Kamiel Cherlet - Reply

Step 37 was the worst, as there is intact a small metal plate, that comes off with the adhesive, which cannot be seen on the instructions/pictures

but its all working, thanks a lot!

Rich - Reply

Success! Great guides here on Ifixit! With lots of kids I have replaced about 5 screens on various devices. Finally getting the hang of it. I had an issue with the "order" of the ribbon cable when reassembling, but they were easy to "reorder" them without any further disassembly... Just do it carefully and they will be corrected!

Thanks!

Karl - Reply

Front Facing and Rear Facing Camera aren't working.

Everything appears to be working well except when I pull up the camera, all I get is a back-lit black screen, for both the front facing and rear facing camera. Any ideas? I had a hard time getting the front facing camera onto the display properly, but I don't understand how that would effect the rear facing camera.

takjackson - Reply

some of my google searches says something about a jumper might be missing off the logic board, but I can't tell from what I am looking at.

Image: https://imgur.com/a/hJgV1

Other comments suggest putting the original screen back on and testing it, unfortunately that is not an option as my LCD was busted.

takjackson -

I placed the screen flats above the shield, while they have to go under it.. this is the only way the screen stopped flashing.. what is the impact ?

Abdallah Samy - Reply

Thank you amaizing easy to understand. cheers really apreciate it!!!

thecanvasman - Reply

Do you think about it? https://goo.gl/photo...aN8XCYD2D3kwZh7 Very strange.

WAPIK - Reply

Broken link? Strange indeed.

Stephen Missah -

It is always necessary to disconnect the battery. If you don't disconnect the battery, you can blow a filter that is responsible for the back light on the screen.

brittany.nicole111 - Reply

I have next the same problem. All sensor is clean, good position. I dont know what is problem.

WAPIK -

I have a broken screen. I have a non-working phone that is an exact replica.

1. Can I exchange the entire fronts, without removing the glass? Just swap the entire unit?

2. How does this effect Touch ID? In expect the old fingerprint ID's would die, but can I add them again so they work?

Thank you.

SlotcarBob - Reply

If you want to retain touch-id functionality, you'll have to transfer the original Touch-ID hardware to your new display assembly.

Lance J -

I've successfully changed my screen but I still have those white horizontal lines as mentioned in step 17. I've tried reconnecting the display data cable but it didn't change anything :(

The lines are located right at the bottom of the screen.

Thanks for your help!

Adrien Simon - Reply

Everything went smooth, but I have light leak on top, only when screen is attached to rest of phone. Problem doesn't exists when testing screen outside backcase, phone is not bended, original screen was fine. Any ideas?

https://goo.gl/rA7gCo

maclaw - Reply

CARE WITH ATTACHMENT FOR HOME BUTTON! My home button cable connector was fused to the gold connector bars beneath at step 30 (gold bars attached to the LCD shield plate) so my home button doesn't work now. I tried to separate gently with the spudger but it just damaged. If you are in this situation, I suggest removing all the 7 screws at step 35 and lifting the home button, home button cable connector and the LCD shield plate as one unit. This worked but I had already damaged the connector cable from its attachment.

IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR HOME BUTTON FUNCTION, in settings, general, accessibility, AssistiveTouch allows a moveable "home" button on the touch screen.

Hope that helps someone.

ebeck_ - Reply

I just replaced a front assembly with the home button connector so stiffly attached that the tab to the left of it broke off while trying to lift it. This happened while resting the display on a very hot iOpener. Some phones simply have a much stronger adhesive. My only advice is to gently prod at the connector from the left with the sharp pointy end of a spudger until it eventually comes lose. In this situation, I was eventually able to lift the connector off undamaged, but I feel like it could've been easier the way you've mentioned, by keeping the two parts of the connector together!

drpotter -

If I remove the home button from the old front panel and just put it on the new front panel will it save the fingerprint function.

Antonio the Tinker - Reply

In a word: yes.

Jeff Suovanen -

I've tried everything imaginable to get Touch ID to work. I've been informed by Apple that Touch ID needs to be reset by an Apple technician for the cost of a screen repair ($129) or "other damage" ($299). Can anyone confirm, or is there a magic potion for this?

jaskegreen - Reply

If your Touch ID (home button) hardware is damaged, only Apple can replace it and restore fingerprint functions—the sensor is keyed to your phone at the factory, and no other sensor will work without help from Apple. This is by design, and prevents people from compromising the security of the system by simply replacing the sensor. So yes, if that's your situation, Apple is your only option. (You can replace a damaged home button, but it will only ever work as a home button—no Touch ID.)

Jeff Suovanen -

Great instructions. A bit worried at times, when putting the screen back together but all works great. Thanks

Ashley Green - Reply

I have a question! before I decided to change my LCD screen myself, I took it to a place that told me they could fix my "no response touch screen" problem, they didn´t then offered to replace it for like a million dollars so I decided to do it myself since I have replaced the battery myself on an old iphone many years ago, the thing is when I opened it following all the instructions, I found that the EMI shield (front panel assembly cable bracket) with all the five screws, the one that covers the flex cables, all missing!! so I went ahead and changed it anyway and closed the iphone back up, still no response on the touch screen, the phone turned on and everything, is it possible that the reason my phone is not working is that is missing the EMI shield? on other forums I read that it should work anyway, help please

Dr. Drea - Reply

I'm a noob but, wow! This is a good guide. However, i have a missing screw, idk what it is, went back and checked, had everything, but, oh well. Also left pink protector on back of lcd but everything fit, so, cool?

Aiden Jacob - Reply

Beautiful step by step! Take your time though… it felt i was preforming surgery

mikeyb540 - Reply

the whole repair was quite straightforward. these alternative instructions were helpful at points: http://www.instructables.com/id/iPhone-6... as was this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh-cbErz...

before finishing the last step of pushing the screen back into the body of the phone, I turned it on and checked all of the functions - the camera, the light sensor and the touch pad. The touch pad wasn’t working, so I turned it off again, and re-seated the home button cable. when i started it up again, it worked properly. Thank you IFIXIT.COM! and many thanks to all of the other folks who commented here.

banderson - Reply

so I’m about to purchase this iFixit replacement display to repair my wifes iPhone 6 that she’s just dropped and smashed the screen. Am I going to have problems with touch ID not working with the new display? The current home button is still working fine, but I’m concerned if when repairing the phone the new screen causes the touch ID to stop working. Any comments

Matt - Reply

It works fine! :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef7HnSjJ... - I’d advice following this too when putting the phone together because the above missed out a few steps

Stephen Missah -

NOTE/WARNING:

These instructions don’t mention the lens and proximity sensor holder/supports. Don’t forget to take them off your old front panel! I would recommend following this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef7HnSjJ... when putting your device back together. Simply doing the above in reverse is not enough!!!

Stephen Missah - Reply

On step 37, I always end up ripping the cable, even a little bit. always move slowly when prying up on the home button interconnect cable, but it still rips. Anybody know a good way to remove it without heat?

Edward Pedemonte - Reply

When I turned the phone on afterwards, the touch screen didn’t work. The screen looks fine but I cant press the code.

I was struggling with step 15 when I reassemblied, since the connector cables needed to be folded to swich places before they left the front panel. I had then tried to connect the wrong bracket. I cleaned the connectors before trying to put them togheter again, but not really sure if I touched them again anyway.

The removal and reassembly of the home button went smoothly. The touch ID didn’t work since earlier, but the button itself work.

Anyone who knows what to do?

Lena Blosfeld - Reply

The digitizer cable connector hadn’t clicked in deeply enough! When I released the two cables on top, it jumped up by itself. Some persistent but smooth pressing in small cirles, with the finger covering the whole connector at the same time, solved the problem. It works!!!

Lena Blosfeld -

Followed this and other guides to replace the screen and battery. Very nice. Thanks.

spike - Reply

Again, an invaluable guide. I’ve used this several times, never for my own phone thankfully!

James - Reply

I did the screen replacement. Everything went well. But when I click the screen into the frame a grey spot appears on the display. When I unlock the screen from the frame and test it again the spot is gone. Does anybody know why this is happening?

Luc - Reply

Update: problem solved. I did also a battery change and the battery connection cable was pushing against the screen and gave a spot on the display. I reinstalled the battery cable and pushed it a bit lower and now the screen is fine!

Luc -

I followed the directions given exactly and now I just get an battery drained icon, and the phone wont charge. what did i do wrong and how do i fix this?

timothy thomason - Reply

GREAT GUIDE. Got mine working the first try. The only suggestion I would make is have closer-up pictures of the cluster of ribbon cables at the top right….took me a while to figure out I could reorder them pretty easily. Before I figured that out I was CONFUSED.

Chris - Reply

Hi Chris! Click on any guide photo to get a bigger version, click on the magnifying glass on the image and you’ll get a huge version of the photo! Hope this helps you with your next repair!

Sam Lionheart -

Read these instructions, work methodically and make sure you carefully watch where you put your screws (I Blu-Tacked them to my bench) and you will succeed in this repair. The only tense moment for me was removing the home button. I highly recommend heat from a hair drier to soften the adhesive. Also, getting the button back in the new print panel assembly correctly without creasing any of the membrane is difficult - if you grip th button with your thumb and forefinger through the home button opening it can help. But yeah - all functionality including Touch ID has been preserved for me.

James McIntosh - Reply

Muy buena guía. He realizado paso a paso todas las indicaciones y , salvo un pequeño despiste con el orden de los cables flex de la pantalla, todo ha ido genial.

Funcionando pantalla nueva y touch id.

Very good guide. I have done all the instructions step by step and, except for a little cluelessness with the order of the flex cables of the screen, everything went great.Running new screen and touch id.

Antonio Ureba Anillo - Reply

Hi, I was wondering what will happen if you don’t replace the LCD front shield plate? I missed that step but my phone seems to be working fine. Will something happen in the long run if I don’t go back and install the shield plate in my new screen?

Angelina - Reply

Thank you for this incredible helpful guide. I had to replace a broken LCD/Digitizer and I was able to successfully do the repair straight forward. The most difficult part I guess was to put back the front camera / sensor / mic / speaker conglomerate ;). I recommend to use a magnifier to be able to put back all those little screws.

Daves - Reply

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