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ビデオの概要

  1. 解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。
    • 解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。

    • 解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ります。

    • Lightningコネクターの両脇に付けられた2本の3.6mmのペンタローブネジを取り外します。

    When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

    Blair Tryba - 返信

    what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

    kristian686 -

    Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

    Howard Bales - 返信

    Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

    For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

    On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

    Maarten Vergauwen -

    Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.

    Linda Chandler -

    I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

    Bailey Wilson - 返信

    Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

    Sam Goldheart -

    See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

    Kenneth Hilstan -

    I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

    socratesmens - 返信

    The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

    1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

    2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

    I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

    Gary Long - 返信

    I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

    Matt D - 返信

    Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

    “We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

    What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

    Brice - 返信

    Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

    William Miller - 返信

    I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

    I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

    If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

    Megan Telliano - 返信

    I agree. The Magnetic Project Mat makes your project incredibly easier and keeps your screws/parts organized. Here is the link for anyone interested:

    Magnetic Project Mat

    Cooper -

    These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

    Jennifer Porter - 返信

  2. 次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。
    • 次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。

    • ご使用前に、iSclackの中央にプラスチック製のデプスケージが付いている場合は取り出してください。 iPhone 6のような大型のデバイスには必要ありません。

    • iSlackの持ち手を閉じて吸盤カップを開きます。

    There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

    Lisa Klitses - 返信

    Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

    Owen -

    I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

    fiftysomething - 返信

  3. iPhoneの下側に吸盤カップを挟みます。 iSclackの上側の吸盤カップがホームボタンの少し上に位置するように装着します。(ボタン上に重ねないでください)
    • iPhoneの下側に吸盤カップを挟みます。

    • iSclackの上側の吸盤カップがホームボタンの少し上に位置するように装着します。(ボタン上に重ねないでください)

    • ハンドルを開いてiSclackの吸盤カップを閉めます。吸盤カップを取り付けて、しっかりと本体の両側に押し当てます。

  4. iPhoneをしっかりと持ち、 iSclackの吸盤カップを両側に開くため、ハンドルを閉めてフロントパネルを背面ケースから引き離します。 iSclack は安全にiPhoneを開口するためにデザインされています。パーツの取り外しには最適なツールですが、本体ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • iPhoneをしっかりと持ち、 iSclackの吸盤カップを両側に開くため、ハンドルを閉めてフロントパネルを背面ケースから引き離します。

    • iSclack は安全にiPhoneを開口するためにデザインされています。パーツの取り外しには最適なツールですが、本体ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • 2つの吸盤カップをiPhoneから取り外します。

    • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8へお進みください。

    The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

    Tim Dougherty - 返信

    It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

    marco bigoni - 返信

    Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

    Fratelli '85 - 返信

    Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

    Richard W - 返信

    Don’t love that, fan.

    That ISclack cost 25 bucks.

    Anwar Hossain (GuestAccount1) - 返信

  5. iSclackをお持ちでない場合は、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを利用してフロントパネルを持ち上げます。
    • iSclackをお持ちでない場合は、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを利用してフロントパネルを持ち上げます。

    • ホームボタンの真上のスクリーン上に吸盤カップを押し当てます。

    • 吸盤カップがスクリーンに固定するように、しっかりと装着します。

    This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

    Erik Madsen - 返信

    You can put clear tape over it. it works.

    Owen -

    Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

    Joanna - 返信

    Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

    -Tom

    tombuy - 返信

    How do you know Tom>

    Shawn - 返信

  6. 片手で iPhoneを押さえながら、吸盤カップを持ち上げて、背面ケースからフロントパネルを離します。
    • 片手で iPhoneを押さえながら、吸盤カップを持ち上げて、背面ケースからフロントパネルを離します。

    • 時間をかけてゆっくりと、同じ強さ加減で作業を進めます。ディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてより強固に接着されています。

    • プラスチック製開口ツールを使って差し込み、リアケースからアセンブリを丁寧にこじ開けます。同時に吸盤カップで引き上げます。

    • フロントパネルアセンブリとリアケースを固定しているクリップが幾つかあります。吸盤カップとプラスチック製開口ツールを同時に使いながら、フロントパネルアセンブリを開けていきます。

    Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

    lauren carroll - 返信

    Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

    Tobias - 返信

    Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

    Dion Sosa - 返信

    That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

    Megan Telliano -

    Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

    youmingc - 返信

    Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

    Adam - 返信

    The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

    Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

    Luke Man - 返信

    I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

    Alan Derrick - 返信

    Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

    scottrell - 返信

  7. 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、吸引力を緩めます。 吸盤カップを本体から取り外します。
    • 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、吸引力を緩めます。

    • 吸盤カップを本体から取り外します。

  8. 本体上部先端を蝶番にして、リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリのホームボタンの先端を持ち上げて、iPhoneを開口します。 フロントパネルの上部端に沿って留められた幾つかのクリップは蝶番の留め金になっています。 再組み立ての際は、クリップをリアケース上部端の真下に並べます。フロントパネルとリアケースの上部先端が重なるようにスライドします。
    • 本体上部先端を蝶番にして、リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリのホームボタンの先端を持ち上げて、iPhoneを開口します。

    • フロントパネルの上部端に沿って留められた幾つかのクリップは蝶番の留め金になっています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、クリップをリアケース上部端の真下に並べます。フロントパネルとリアケースの上部先端が重なるようにスライドします。

    It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

    ethanlust - 返信

    Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

    Albert -

    Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

    Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

    SAS - 返信

    This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

    Bruce Fournier - 返信

    My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

    Tony Chicoine - 返信

    same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

    Andrea Andreoli - 返信

    Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

    Adam Carl - 返信

    Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

    The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

    Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

    Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

    Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

    Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

    nigel - 返信

  9. 作業をスムーズに進めるため、ディスプレイを約90度まで開いて衝立などを使用して固定します。 緊急の場合は、未開封の飲料水缶を利用できます。 衝立にディスプレイを固定する際は、輪ゴムを使用して留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに不要な圧力がかかるのを防いでくれます。
    • 作業をスムーズに進めるため、ディスプレイを約90度まで開いて衝立などを使用して固定します。

    • 緊急の場合は、未開封の飲料水缶を利用できます。

    • 衝立にディスプレイを固定する際は、輪ゴムを使用して留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに不要な圧力がかかるのを防いでくれます。

    A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

    Ryan - 返信

    I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

    dcommins - 返信

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - 返信

    I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

    bobcloninger - 返信

    If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

    Larry House - 返信

    Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

    Sherman Homan - 返信

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

    todd adelman - 返信

    I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

    brian - 返信

    Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

    smahar - 返信

    Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

    Sam Goldheart -

  10. 次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから取り外します。
    • 次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから取り外します。

    • 2.2 mm ネジー1本

    • 3.2 mmネジー1本

    ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

    Cory Berends -

    Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

    kupies2011 - 返信

    With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

    Wilson Styres - 返信

    Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

    smcgreg - 返信

    My phone was missing this screw also!

    Gail Starr -

    Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

    smcgreg - 返信

    When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

    Juan Monge - 返信

    I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

    Cavell Blood -

    Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

    Dan Solovay - 返信

    None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

    Elaine Eason - 返信

    I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

    Jameison Martin - 返信

    what did you do, i have the same problem i don’t know what to do. I should have read the comments at first now I am left with an open phone

    Francky Maemble -

    I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

    Brian Adams - 返信

    Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

    Matthijs Rog - 返信

    Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

    Priscilla Cheng - 返信

    When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

    dhcohen67 - 返信

    why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

    i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

    Michael Amara - 返信

    I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

    Tung-wei Lin - 返信

    My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

    My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

    What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

    John Palaganas - 返信

    The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

    Eric Craumer - 返信

    Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

    Jimmy Doi - 返信

    The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    @michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu

    Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

    Michael Pesenti - 返信

    I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

    Matt - 返信

    Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

    Trish - 返信

    You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

    Jennifer Porter - 返信

    I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

    I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

    GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

    Thank you iFixit and commentators

    Paul Austin - 返信

    Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

    Thomas Hayes - 返信

    @Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

    povman - 返信

  11. iPhoneからメタル製のバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。
    • iPhoneからメタル製のバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

    Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

    mjcoughlin70 - 返信

    The YouTube video could use an update, but unfortunately YouTube does not allow that. Always disconnect the battery before disassembling anything else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

    Bobby Slone - 返信

  12. プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

    • 基板のソケットには接触せず、バッテリーコネクターのみに差し込んで押し上げます。ててください。基板上のソケットに触ると、コネクター全体を損傷することがあります。

    I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

    Tonima Chaudhury - 返信

    I wish I had done that.

    Gail Starr -

    Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

    Andy Milne -

    Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

    Tom Long -

    In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

    Perrin Haley -

    I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

    youmingc - 返信

    I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

    jaksbackpack - 返信

    Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

    mitch Toler - 返信

    You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

    Reza I. Permana -

    Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

    As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

    Russ Levey - 返信

    It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

    Udo Schuehle - 返信

    I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

    Garret Gray - 返信

    I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

    Garret Gray - 返信

    The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

    Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

    When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

    Tom Rohrer -

    I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

    Kevin Harvey -

    I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

    thomasjmaclean - 返信

    I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

    Sare - 返信

    It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

    Alex Kosmider - 返信

    Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

    Alex Kosmider -

    For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

    lowestseries - 返信

    Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

    cambo.robertson - 返信

    Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

    What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

    Juan - 返信

    I can’t seem to get the battery connector to connect to the logic board. Is there some reason it doesn’t click or do something to hold it in place before the battery connector bracket?

    Leif Rambjor - 返信

    @lrambjor No special technique; just line it up and press down, and it should snap into place. Make sure there’s no dirt/debris in the socket; give it a blast with some compressed air if needed. And make sure you’re not trying to jam an iPhone 6s battery into an iPhone 6 (or vice versa)—they aren’t compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

    What is the reason

    juniour Bowens - 返信

    Who are you kidding? Plastic tool” is cute, but totally useless for lifting that battery connector off the logic board. But the smaller of the four long-handles Metal tools iFixit sells as a set worked perfectly well.

    Michael Russo - 返信

  13. フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットから次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。
    • フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットから次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 1.7 mmネジー1本

    • 3.1 mm ネジー1本

    • 再組み立ての際、これらのネジを違う箇所に取付けてしまうと、基板に永続的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

    Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

    damianodessgillett - 返信

    I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

    griffn - 返信

    I seriously draw a picture of the part, and mark where the screws belong, then place the screw on its location on the drawing! I so don’t want to screw it up(no pun intended)

    lisa OBrien -

    Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

    kev - 返信

    I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

    adlerpe - 返信

    i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

    girlsrock742 - 返信

    @girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

    # Be more specific about what your issue is.

    # Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

    Good luck!

    Nate Schley - 返信

    Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

    Carol N -

    Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

    Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

    Nate Schley - 返信

    It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

    cruz.giovanni - 返信

    I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

    Patric - 返信

    Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

    Michael Aguilera - 返信

    It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

    Adam - 返信

    Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

    nzf - 返信

    Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

    Sare -

    I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

    I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

    Matt Whiteley - 返信

    There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

    arunhn - 返信

    100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

    Dormouse -

    I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

    Joel Horie - 返信

    I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

    kevin hekman - 返信

    I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

    Billy Bob Baler - 返信

    Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

    Tanya Lyn Willard - 返信

    You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

    June Beltran -

    Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

    smahar -

    I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

    Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

    June Beltran - 返信

    I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

    Walter White - 返信

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

    J Marr - 返信

    Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

    Mc Floyd -

    It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

    jacobdanderson -

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - 返信

    How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

    predylindsay - 返信

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery and there is no Step 33. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

    BW Lee - 返信

    This procedure is for replacing the iPhone 6 battery. You may have been referred to this page from another procedure. Keep that in mind while reading the comments here that may or may not apply to your original procedure.

    Don Lawton -

    Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

    MClare - 返信

    I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

    Heather Best - 返信

    Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

    Peter - 返信

    I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

    Patrick Reed - 返信

    You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

    When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

    Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

    You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

    ACMT - 4 years.

    jonbessom - 返信

    I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

    Michael Kirkpatrick - 返信

    There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

    Naresh Annepu - 返信

    If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

    If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

    Eric Craumer - 返信

    Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

    L He - 返信

    Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

    Sherman Homan - 返信

    I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

    Sare - 返信

    @sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

    That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

    Sare - 返信

    well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

    philbjh - 返信

    For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

    lowestseries - 返信

    Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

    The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

    Indiana Jones - 返信

    Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

    d.rando90 - 返信

    i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

    Regan Murray - 返信

    I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

    AndyKao - 返信

    Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

    Gary Brinkworth - 返信

    The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for your reply

    even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

    Gary Brinkworth - 返信

    Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

    Hannah Hyun - 返信

    Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

    br_flavio - 返信

  14. 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
    • 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

    I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

    Joan Fitzgerald - 返信

    In my case the top left screw - the orange screw - stayed in the front panel assembly cable bracket and would not come out. Later on I realized that the standoff screw which is underneath stayed fixed in the 1.7 mm screw. In fact this was no problem and I didn’t need to figure out how to remove the standoff screw at step 36. I just put it back in altogether and it worked fine. I actually removed both screws at once.

    Anja S - 返信

  15. 次の4つの手順ではケーブルコネクターのみに差し込んで持ち上げ、基板上のソケットには接触しないでください。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
    • 次の4つの手順ではケーブルコネクターのみに差し込んで持ち上げ、基板上のソケットには接触しないでください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

    douglas hughes - 返信

    Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

    mahoffman - 返信

    I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

    alyssaavaldezz - 返信

    Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

    Veronica del Rio -

    regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

    David Panak - 返信

    This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

    gybeho -

    omg…. thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Stephanie Mille -

    Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

    lee moran - 返信

    my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

    andrew midgett - 返信

    Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

    gybeho - 返信

    "gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

    cruz.giovanni - 返信

    it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

    Dakota Navarrete - 返信

    I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

    Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

    PG McLaughlin - 返信

    Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

    PG McLaughlin - 返信

    Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

    William Breen - 返信

    +1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

    drpotter -

    For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

    Chet Seidel - 返信

    I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

    Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

    Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

    Pitt Monqui - 返信

    Please how much is the battery if converted into Ghana cedis?

    Pappy Joe - 返信

    1 Ghanaian Cedi equals $0.19 United States Dollar. Therefore, the $30 USD iPhone battery kit equals 161.04 Ghanaian Cedi.

    Don Lawton -

  16. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

    Gracias.

    Berta fernandez - 返信

    I have the same problem. The phone turns on when I disconnect the home button cable, but turns off some seconds after I reconnect it. Does anybody have a solution?

    Tim Wende -

  17. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 デバイスの再組み立ての際には、ディスプレイデータケーブルがコネクターから飛び出してしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時に白黒画面となる原因となります。この状態の場合、単純にケーブルを一旦外して電源を切り、再起動してください。ベストな再起動方法は、バッテリーコネクターを一度外してから再装着して電源を入れることです。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デバイスの再組み立ての際には、ディスプレイデータケーブルがコネクターから飛び出してしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時に白黒画面となる原因となります。この状態の場合、単純にケーブルを一旦外して電源を切り、再起動してください。ベストな再起動方法は、バッテリーコネクターを一度外してから再装着して電源を入れることです。

    you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

    copykatt - 返信

    My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

    Gabriel Hirata - 返信

    Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

    William Mullan - 返信

    When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

    Christopher - 返信

    NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

    taylor sparks - 返信

    Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

    Dave - 返信

    If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

    grjos - 返信

    If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

    Andrew Hill - 返信

    what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

    Daniel Murcia - 返信

    what if the batery was not disconnected?

    Sergio Midence - 返信

    Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

    Trish - 返信

    Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

    Cyndi - 返信

    I finally got the cables to reconnect. I actually was being to gentle pushing them down. Line them up gently then firmly press them in place.

    halac6 - 返信

  18. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、デジタイザーケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。 デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの一方端を押さえてから、反対側を押さえます。コネクター中央を押してしまうと、コンポーネントを曲げてしまい、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、デジタイザーケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの一方端を押さえてから、反対側を押さえます。コネクター中央を押してしまうと、コンポーネントを曲げてしまい、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

    griffn - 返信

    i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

    awr - 返信

    How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

    falken1337 - 返信

    Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

    Bailey Duncan - 返信

    This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

    Keith Mullins - 返信

    So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

    After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

    Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

    Jonathan Rivera - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

    grjos - 返信

    I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

    Charlotte - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

    Simon Tengstrand -

    Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

    Ume Nishikino - 返信

    My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

    Sissy -

    I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

    Heywoz - 返信

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

    Will - 返信

    I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

    Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

    Clint Casanova - 返信

    This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

    Pau - 返信

    I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

    Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

    If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

    Dom Gernon - 返信

  19. リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。
    • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。

    Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

    Joeri Boersen - 返信

    Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - 返信

    Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

    Neos Kosmos - 返信

    It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

    Roger - 返信

  20. 上部左端にあるリアカメラのネジを覆っているテープを取り外します。 上部左端にあるリアカメラのネジを覆っているテープを取り外します。
    • 上部左端にあるリアカメラのネジを覆っているテープを取り外します。

  21. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってロジックボードに付けられたソケットからリアカメラのコネクターを引き上げて外します。 コネクターのみを引き上げ、ソケット自体には触らないようにしましょう。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってロジックボードに付けられたソケットからリアカメラのコネクターを引き上げて外します。

    • コネクターのみを引き上げ、ソケット自体には触らないようにしましょう。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  22. リアカメラのブラケットから、次のプラス#00ネジを外します。
    • リアカメラのブラケットから、次のプラス#00ネジを外します。

    • 1.5 mmネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmネジー1本

  23. リアカメラのブラケットを取り外します。 リアカメラのブラケットを取り外します。
    • リアカメラのブラケットを取り外します。

  24. iPhone本体からリアカメラを取り外します。 iPhone本体からリアカメラを取り外します。
    • iPhone本体からリアカメラを取り外します。

    does iphone 6s rear camera fit into iphone 6 ?

    moon moorky - 返信

  25. この下のブラケットを外すのは難しい作業です。このブラケットの内部にある円状のエッジはカメラのレンズリングに半田付けされているように見えます。取り外しにはかなりのエネルギーが必要です。もしブラケットを壊してしまってもおかしくはありません。 この下のブラケットを外すのは難しい作業です。このブラケットの内部にある円状のエッジはカメラのレンズリングに半田付けされているように見えます。取り外しにはかなりのエネルギーが必要です。もしブラケットを壊してしまってもおかしくはありません。
    • この下のブラケットを外すのは難しい作業です。このブラケットの内部にある円状のエッジはカメラのレンズリングに半田付けされているように見えます。取り外しにはかなりのエネルギーが必要です。もしブラケットを壊してしまってもおかしくはありません。

    It won't turn on because you have to detach the battery from the motherboard first, before attaching it back again. Then it should work.

    Ben - 返信

    I can't remove my bracket no matter how hard i try. I was able to push out the lens but not the circular rim.

    will_baller94 - 返信

    Can I heat the bracket to remove it easier or will it cause damage?

    will_baller94 - 返信

    This bracket is welded to the lens. The only way to remove it is destructive. Anyone have a replacement part #?

    trainwreck1101 - 返信

    is this bracket a must replace part, or if damaged/removed, will the camera still function? My only option to replace seems to order from HK and wait 20-50 days ....

    iBroke - 返信

    I tried removing this bracket, and only managed to grossly deform it. Seeing that, I tried to form it back to position as well as I could, then reassembled my phone without completing the replacement. Should I order a replacement, and rip out this part in order to replace the lens?

    K T - 返信

    I was able to complete this step but it wasn’t pretty. The rubber cover of the bracket is glued to the bracket, comes off but it was a bit deformed. The problem is the bracket is soldered to the lens cap, making it impossible to remove either without force. Truly crap design from Apple IMO.

    Adam McLane - 返信

    The video is a lie. What a miserable step. That said, I came up with a way that produced a clean break between the lens and this bracket—so I thought I would share. Don’t bother with the trying to remove this feeble bracket. We are all doing this because the lens is broken, so get rid of all the glass. I flipped my phone lens up/electronics down. I have a small flat tip screwdriver that fits just inside the lens opening—one of those free Snap-On pocket screwdrivers. I pried under half the lens, against the top of the exposed lens rim. The body of the phone should flex—take care. I would alternate prying in 4 quadrants of the lens rim so to speak. Took less than 5 minutes and 90% of the lens rim broke perfectly clean from the bracket. That last 10% I wiggled and wiggled to yield what metal was still connected. Minimal distortion. I superglued the lens in because nothing holds it. New lens on towel glass down,applied glue to tiny pin, apply to internal rim, press phone back onto stationary lens.

    jraimond - 返信

    best answer ever! Lens up/electronics down and pry with the flat screwdriver

    Buttcmd -

    As above will not come out. I ended up bending the rear housing.

    Best way in hindsight would be to force it from the inside using a screwdriver damaging the bracket.

    Buy the lens and bracket together works out £5. This is better then damaging the actual housing.

    In the end I had to buy a used rear housing with parts for £5 worked out fine.

    Mus - 返信

    I ripped the bracket out and just put the rubber cover of the bracket back in. Put a little bit of super glue on the camera housing and put it back in place. Works fine.

    Cbirdsey - 返信

  26. 最後は、内側からひびの入ったカメラレンズを押し出します。 まず、使いやすくお気に入りの工具を手にとりましょう。それから力を加えて曲げても背面ケースを守れる位置に手を置きます。次に力を振り絞ってカメラレンズを押し出します。デバイス本体とご自身の手を傷めないように気をつけましょう。 新しいカメラレンズを挿入する際はカメラレンズと新しい下敷きのブラケットを固める接着剤が必要です。
    • 最後は、内側からひびの入ったカメラレンズを押し出します。

    • まず、使いやすくお気に入りの工具を手にとりましょう。それから力を加えて曲げても背面ケースを守れる位置に手を置きます。次に力を振り絞ってカメラレンズを押し出します。デバイス本体とご自身の手を傷めないように気をつけましょう。

    • 新しいカメラレンズを挿入する際はカメラレンズと新しい下敷きのブラケットを固める接着剤が必要です。

    • iPhone 6にダメージが入ってしまうことを心配されているなら、Appleセンターに修理の依頼をしてみましょう。

    OK, so I was able to complete this step, but it’s not for the faint at heart. Since the bracket is soldered to the lens cap from opposite sides I had to use a board and vice to attach the bottom of the iPhone to my bench, leaving the corner with the camera exposed and hanging over the edge. The I used a hammer and screwdriver to break the solder and poke the crumpled bracket through the hole with the lens still attached. Once I forced the broken lens out I was able to use tweezers to spectate the bracket from the lens. I salvaged the bracket and bent it back into place enough where it’d fit back into the phone and was able to replace the lens and put everything back together just fine. But it wasn’t nearly as easy as described. That solder is a real bugger.

    Adam McLane - 返信

    this works great thank-you

    the dress circle - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

96 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

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Sophia

メンバー登録日: 2014年03月25日

42,291 ポイント

62のガイドは作成済み

39 件のコメント

Thank you Sophia, very good guide. I just wanted to add more information to Step 5, 6, 7, and 8.

Step 5 - Disconnect the rear camera from motherboard, gently lift ribbon towards the top. This will help release the thin black tape covering the top left screw holding the bracket. I peel it back just enough to access the screw.

Step 6 - Gently lift the rear camera from the frame avoid touching the camera lens.

I reversed parts of Step 7 and 8.

Step 7 - You will destroy the bracket. The bracket and lens are crimped or pressed together somehow, as stated in the guide. The next step I modified; press out the rest of the broken glass in the lens. Then as in step 8 press the lens from the inside, outward to break the crimp.

Step 8 - Lift out the bracket, it may still be attached.Use heated air to remove the black foam square from the old bracket and reuse for the new bracket.

To repair, I'm still looking for the best way. I carefully used super glue to place the lens and bracket in place.

MaxM Tech - 返信

Does anyone know if the iPhone 6 plus Lens replacement is about the same?

Caroline Haney - 返信

Anyone knows where can I purchase the camera bracket? I don't seem to find it.

Thank you

Abdullah Mohammad - 返信

Hi u can buy it here at the top of the guide :-) under relevant parts.

billyroypage -

I'm with u Greg , I tried the hard way it's like pulling a good tooth ! Something gonna break and possible bend . Great video though exposing the hidden screw.

billyroypage -

Is this the same for an iPhone 6s?

alanmorales - 返信

A simpler way is to heat the lens up with a hair dryer until the case is too hot to touch. Then carefully with a Stanley knife blade wedge the old lens out. No need to open the iPhone doing it this way. You can buy a new lens on fleabay for a few bucks.

Carefully putting superglue around the edge of the new lens, then press it in to the casing. All done.

This is good for the 6s.

Edit: It may be better to use a PVC glue that will soften with heat in case you ever need to do this again.

Greg Middleton - 返信

is this technique(heating the lens with a dryer) really possible without heating up and possibly destroying other parts like the camera itself? How hard was it to pry the lens off after? Isn't the lens soldered to the bracket inside?

Vince -

Not if you follow the described procedure up until removing camera from the phone, its just instead of trying to push whole lens body out you tinker with the glass itself only.

Alex S. -

I did this. Once reassembled my iphone won't turn on. Any ideas?

amyleighox - 返信

take it apart again and make sure all of you brackets and ribbons are firmly pressed together

Davis Modarelli -

Hello guys please I have the iPhone 6s black color and I break the back camera glass and I can't find anywhere the original sapphire glass I live in Germany in München the only to can do its to pay309€ to change my all the device in Apple Store but it's too much where I can find this original part help please thanks

dddigalakis - 返信

You will not buy original part because Apple do not sell it. Everyone who selling parts stating it is original is a liar.

Go to aliexpress . com, there you can buy sapphire glass replacement for few dollars (not original but good quality)> I did it to my iphone 6s and everything works good so far. Good luck

Lord V -

You could also heat it up very carefully and change it without opening your device. :)

Titelive - 返信

Yeah but problem is “very carefully” definition varies with each person so it might yield unpredictable result as well.

Alex S. -

Where can we buy the camera lens for iphone 6?

Mukul rao - 返信

My iPhone 6 fell from my pocket yesterday, It was a slight fall. Since then, the rear camera stopped working and the flashlight won't come up. The camera doesn't look cracked or scratched, what could be wrong please?

Joy - 返信

The connectors connecting them to the board may be damaged, or possibly a component is broken, like a capacitor or resistor responsible for those two.

AdamA -

is there any disadvantage of this process ? My iphone is %#*@ new .. i bought it 3 days ago and this thing already happened with me :'( Im so worried

Sundus Hameed - 返信

Yes, by opening the phone or using anyone else besides Apple will void your warranty (and trust me unless very tedious and detailed repair person does it they will know) most reair shops don’t even bother to install new LCD seal even. GET A CASE if you wrecked camera glass in 3 days is my advice and ask Apple if possible for a fix try maybe to point out that you think it was defective and JUST happened on it’s own while charging on your table lol.

Alex S. -

I am planning on replacing the back panel. Is it possible to get the old lens out of the old case without damaging it, and thus use the OEM lens in my new back panel?

Niek Sanderman - 返信

No, there’s no such thing as OEM lens replacement since original is laser welded to metal bracket inside so case is sandwiched in between so to speak (doubt anyone offers that kind of technology in repair shops), once you break that bond (if you lucky enough, since I could only do it with perfectly sized drill bit by drilling through that bond but not damaging the opening hole in the frame itself, forget “just “pushing it out, I was pushing until something else almost came out of my body without any luck on the lens part).

Alex S. -

its true that camera len 6 and 6s same?

shahmishafiee - 返信

Same lens, different sensor

Raffaela Kruse -

Can someone actually do this in store

Sarah - 返信

Remember to unplug the battery first

Gert Udby Eriksen - 返信

My camera doesnt focus after camera lense replacement any idea?

Jessica Seo - 返信

The camera is not sitting properly in the inside opening or not centered perfectly in it (could be physically damaged during removal as well). If you look straight at the lens glass and the camera lens is not directly in the center then that might be causing it. It ight be glue, piece of seal or rubber in the way too. Either way it’s not connector so don’t bother trying to connect'/disconnect cable trying to fix it, if it was connector camera wouldn’t initialize at all most likely.

Alex S. -

what kind of glue do i use ???

BMW Man - 返信

I suggest putting the type of screwdriver used in each step to ease the job.

Luciano d'Avila - 返信

I phone won't turn back on after attempting 3 times to put it back together after replacing lens. Any suggestions? Brackets are secure and phone cleaned of dust.

jrf279 - 返信

I think it can RIP now. That’s why these DIY things are not for everyone and it takes sometimes experience as well as few sacrificial phones to learn hot to do it properly. Biggest mistake people do is not disconnecting battery first or use antistatic mats or bands while poking inside these delicate electronics. If you’re lucky it might be damaged screen only or it could be much worse and will require board level repair (which apple won’t do so your only other option is use 3rd party specialists and I’m not talking about those mall guys)

Alex S. -

Hi, is there anyone who knows where I can buy iPhone 6 lens here in midrand?

Ponky Hantana - 返信

No matter how hard I press on the old lens cover, it won’t budge. I can’t pry it out or push it out. The glass is gone at this point. It was totally cracked before, so that’s no big deal. Any ideas? I’ve tried heat and pressure. Nada.

dennis

Dennis Gagomiros - 返信

Yes, I did it with perfectly sized drill bit to drill through the weld connection (the lens body and metal bracket on the inside are welded with laser or some sort of micro dot welding, you can actually see those weld dots there. But you have to size bit perfectly to go through the connection but not expand hole in the phone body. I would say its easier to try removing the glass only, clean the glue connection and slap new glass in there, If followed same procedure as above when the screen is out and the camera itself as well it should be safe enough to heat up glass left overs to help them come out. Next time I’m trying this way instead of following not so easy method described above.

Alex S. -

Yes. It was the welded bracket that caused all the frustration. It eventually gave way but not without a lot of effort. Thanks for your suggestion, though.

Dennis Gagomiros - 返信

I completed this repair but would recommend replacing the bracket as well as the lens, really they should be sold bundled since you’ll destroy the bracket to get the lens out.

Adam McLane - 返信

I was able to get the lens cover out without any issue just by introducing some impact force to it:

First I took a thumb tack and removed the pokey metal part, and then I carefully sanded down the edges of the plastic bell end until I had a very good fit with the inside of the lens cover. Then I took my phone, put it on its back and ran it to the edge of the table until the lens cover slid off, and I positioned the back of the phone case so as much surface area as possible was in contact with the back of the case. Then with the thumb tack nestled inside the lens cover, I gave it a pretty soft but deliberate tap with a hammer and the lens cover popped right out. The bracket stayed in place. No damage was done to the phone. Then I just superglued the new lens cover on and went about my business.

Tim Griffin - 返信

Thanks for the article Sophia. I was able to do this complete job in about an hour. Removing the old lens from the case actually consumed most of the time. After destroying and removing the bottom bracket I used a 7/32” drill bit and only one light tap of a small mallet to easily remove the lens. I reassembled without a new bottom bracket.

j sappington - 返信

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