はじめに
このガイドを使って傷やダメージの入ったリアケースを交換してください。
このガイドではバッテリーを取り出します。バッテリーに留められた接着ストリップは再利用できません。そのため、作業を始める前に交換用の接着ストリップをご用意ください。または、両面テープを使用することもできます。バッテリーはデバイスにしっかりと装着し、ガタガタ音が鳴らないようにします。
このガイドを使ってパワーボタンの接地ケーブルを交換することもできます。
必要な工具と部品
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ディスプレイガラスにひび割れがある場合、修理作業中の怪我を防ぐため、ガラス表面にテープを貼って破損箇所が広がらないようにします。
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iPhoneの画面上に透明テープを貼り、表面全体を覆います。
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解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ってください。
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Lightningコネクター両側の 3.8 mm P2ペンタロープネジを2本取り外します。
I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.
Jim Thomas - 返信
My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.
@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.
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iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。
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吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。
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上部の吸盤カップはホームボタンより上に接着させてください。
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iSclackのレバーを開いて吸盤を閉じます。iPhoneの両面、中心部に吸盤カップをしっかりと押し当てます。
I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.
Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!
@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.
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iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めていきます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがってきます。
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iSclackはiPhoneを安全に開口できるようにデザインされていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。
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次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8まで進んでください。
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カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと密着させます。
cool i diden't now
very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.
bromanmoon - 返信
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iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体背面ケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離していきます。
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吸盤カップを上に持ち上げながら、プラスチック製の開口ツールで、ゆっくりと背面ケースの端からフロントパネルアセンブリを引き離します。
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フロントパネルのホームボタン端を持ち上げて開き、本体上部付近のコネクターにアクセスします。
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ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろに衝立を設置して固定します。
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緊急の際は、衝立として未開封の飲料缶をご利用できます。
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作業中、ディスプレイをしっかりと固定するためにゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに余剰な力が加わるのを防いでくれます。
I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!
What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?
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ロジックボードに留められたメタル製のバッテリコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!
I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.
It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端もしくは清潔な爪先で、ロジックボードのソケットからバッテリコネクターをこじ開けて外します。
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ロジックボードのソケットをこじ開けるのではなく、バッテリコネクタのみをこじ開けるように十分注意してください。ロジックボードのソケットや基板をこじ開けると、ソケットが破壊されたり、基板上の近くの部品が破損したりすることがあります。
Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.
Jona Wolff - 返信
Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.
Peter Hill - 返信
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ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから、次の#000 プラスネジを外します。
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1.3 mmネジー2本
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1.7 mmネジー1本
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3.25 mm ネジー1本
I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.
I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.
I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly
good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).
When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?
no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.
did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.
Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.
*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.
Hi Ali,
You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.
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プラスチック開口ツールや指の爪を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.
In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.
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この手順で、ケーブルの接続を入れたり抜いたりする前に、バッテリーの接続が外れているかどうか確認してください。
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プラスチックの開口ツールもしくは爪先で、LCDケーブルコネクタの接続を外します。
I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!
This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.
vince -
Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.
There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.
Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:
Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.
Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.
Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.
Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.
Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?
Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...
duston -
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.
iBroke -
I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?
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背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。
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SIMカードの取り出しツールや紙クリップをSIMカードトレイ上の小さなホールに差し込みます。
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トレイを出すために、SIMカード取り出しツールを内側に押します。
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この作業ではかなりの力が必要です。
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スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。
I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.
I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.
I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.
The adhesive tab has a small extension tab with a hole in the end closest to the ear phone jack. If you stick the tip of your spudger through it, you can use it to lift one end and get you started.
John Pitts - 返信
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電話本体からバッテリー接着タブを取り出します。
It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.
Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.
guardian10 - 返信
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2本の白い接着ストリップの間に装着されている黒色のバッテリー接着タブを二つに切ります。
Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.
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ゆっくりとバッテリーからバッテリーの接着ストリップをiPhoneの下側に向けて引っ張ります。
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バッテリーと背面ケースの間からストリップが出てくるまで、均一の力で継続的に引き抜きます。一番良い角度はストリップを60度以下で引っぱることです。
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ストリップを電話本体の他のコンポーネントに向けて引っ張らないようにご注意ください。接着ストリップに穴があいてしまい、裂けてしまう原因となります。
I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!
When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?
Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.
My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.
So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?
This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.
5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)
Tanx ifixit. You are the best.
I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery
Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!
@lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.
This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.
Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure
If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end
the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.
Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S
Steve Hind - 返信
Both my tabs broke immediately with the gentlest tug, as if they were dry and ready to come off. So I heated the back of the phone with warm heat from a hair dryer and was able to push a thin flexible plastic piece (thinner than a credit card but strong enough to be pushed in) under the corner of the battery near its connector. It would go in only so far, so I kept reheating and pushing it in more, moving up the long side of the battery. This works because you’re pushing toward / against the frame side so you can exert enough pressure. You don’t need to pry or lift the battery up (and you shouldn’t anyway because you may damage the components along the side of the battery and/or the battery itself) until it’s mostly loose.
This part was really difficult. After reading other comments, I applied heat right away (I balanced my phone and screen (rubber-banded like in step 8) on top of the iOpener - had to be very careful to keep it balanced). The case-side strip pulled around the battery corner and snapped; the logic board-side strip snapped immediately.
I couldn’t get plastic cards or triangle wedges in far enough to get leverage; I carefully used two spudgers to pry up the bottom of the battery. From there I used tweezers to grab the edge of the logic-side adhesive. It took many tries to grab enough to continue to pull it, but once I had it, I got the whole strip out. Then my battery was loose enough to pry it up and off of the other strip with a plastic card.
It’s definitely easier to get the battery out if you can get the logic board-side strip out. The strips came out easier when I stopped pulling and grabbed the base instead of pulling from the end. I tried to keep the angle as flat as possible but there’s not much room.
Both tabs broke. I tried heat multiple times and alcohol. Based on this step the rating on this repair should be changed to difficult. It is too easy to damage other cables. I’ve damaged some cable but I don’t know which one from the videos. I would say if you get to this point and it doesn’t come up easily after applying heat, go to a professional or risk further damage to other components. It is very difficult to use the card to pry without damaging something.
Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.
Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.
THE FLOSS is where it’s at. Heat slowly and work the floss through.
eastkyprog - 返信
When I (gently) start pulling strips, they both TORN.
After try out (unsuccessfully) different recommendations, it works out the one with (pure) ALCOHOL.
My way was in particularly like that: I take SPUDGER and wet it FLAT-HEAD with alcohol. And start to pry up battery from left side, near middle (there's some more space). Step by step, for a LITTLE bit, deeper and deeper, and EVERYTIME to wet spudger with alcohol. So all way down to bottom, and from the bottom (not from the motherboard on the right, and upper side at all). It takes couple (or more) dozens prying ups. Eventually battery came off, and leave adhesive at the case (removed with alcohol and spudger again).
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続けて2番目の接着ストリップを取り出します。
I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.
At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.
If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.
https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.
Jack Chang - 返信
The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.
Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!
I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.
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iPhoneからバッテリーを取り出します。
Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.
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バッテリーの下に90％以上の高濃度イソプロピルアルコールを数滴垂らして、接着剤の周辺に注入して、接着力を弱めます。高濃度イソプロピルアルコールは溶剤として、残留物を残さず乾燥させるので、iPhoneを傷つけることはありません。
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ロジックボードに近い側のバッテリーの下にプラスチックカードを慎重に差し込みます。
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バッテリーの上部から下部に向かってプラスチックカードをスライドし、背面ケースの端に向かって押し込みます。
A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(
The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.
I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?
Peter Hill - 返信
Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!
Wow. Good luck removing your battery by this method. The adhesive on mine was impossible to remove, finally the battery foil peeled off, the battery was totally destroyed, and I had to scrape the adhesive off the phone bit by bit. Scary to abuse a lithium battery that way… Destroyed my ribbon cable, too, so now I can spend another $30 and a bunch more time… Wow. Not recommended; impossible to accomplish as described. Battery is not removable. Those adhesive strips are from !&&*. There is no reason to use that adhesive in that location, except to deliberately make the phone non-serviceable. Once the adhesive gets old, it just snaps and heat doesn’t help. Good luck.
Well… That was interesting. I dropped my phone this morning at some weird angle and the housing bent a little. I opened the phone only to reveal a torn battery. The adhesive strips were so old they were impossible to remove even after I removed the exploded battery. Just, wow, I never thought a caseless phone drop + a hot summer day would result in this. What a scary thing to see blue-green chemical flames inside a phone! I’ve never seen this happen with a Note 7 so I thought I’d never see a burning battery, but boy was I wrong!
Ryan Scott - 返信
dental floss works great but needs lots of pressure and heat
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それでもバッテリーがケースに固着していて外れない場合は、 iOpenerを温める手順に従うか、ドライヤーを使ってリアケースにバッテリーを固定している接着剤を加熱してください。
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iOpenerをカメラの右側端に沿って載せます。iPhone裏側とiOpenerの間の接触をよくするため、表面を拭き取ってください。
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iOpenerバッテリーを取り出す前に約90秒間、このバッグを載せてください。
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ヒートガンやヘアドライヤーを使用する場合は、iPhoneの裏側に熱をあて、若干熱くて触れない程度まで温めます。
you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work
A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.
Dan Harris - 返信
Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!
I always have to do this because the adhesive strips never work because they can’t be pulled out at a flat enough angle. As you heat the back of the case in preparation for battery removal, also load some heat into some kind of smooth, flat metal tool to slide under one end of the battery as you pry it up. This makes for much less prying on the battery and much less chance of damaging it. It also makes for faster removal. The metal spatula tool provided in the fixit Pro Tech Toolkit, Pro Tech Toolkit, (an earlier version of which I use CONSTANTLY and is one of the most used toolkits I have) is perfect for this job.
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iPhoneからバッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。
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バッテリーを接着し、接続を外して、デバイスの組み立て作業を続けてください。
My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.
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プラスチック製の開口ツールを使ってホームボタンのバネ接点ケーブルを内蔵スピーカーからこじ開け、取り出します。
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背面ケースに留められた内蔵スピーカーから次のネジを外します。
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2.7 mm #000プラスネジー2本
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2.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本
These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.
The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you
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内蔵スピーカーを取り出します。アンテナケーブルに引っかけないようご注意ください。
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Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.
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Lightningコネクターケーブルはロジックボード上のシールドに軽く接着されています。スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ケーブルを丁寧に剥がします。
When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate
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ロジックボードのベースからセルラーアンテナのコネクターの接続を外します。
How the !&&* are you supposed to get this back on?! I just can't do it.
leeprobert - 返信
I usually hold the connector in place over the socket with a pair of tweezers, and then press it down with the flat end of a spudger.
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背面ケースに留められたLightningコネクターから次のネジを外します。
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3.4 mm #000プラスネジー2本
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2.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本
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2.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本
The lower left corner (yellow circled) screw has probably "screwed" us - for some reason it just won't start turning. Perhaps some glue under this one, needs heat? Anyone else faced this issue?
I did not when doing this job. The only part that I found had some adhesive was the cellular antenna cable. Perhaps some heat in some cases is necessary, but go easy on it.
Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.
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Lightningコネクターアセンブリを取り出します。
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小さなゴム製のガスケットがマイクに留められています。これを新しいアセンブリに移してください。
The microphone gasket is not really a gasket like an O ring, it is a foam box into which you insert a little metal box on the end of the ribbon cable. Be sure you look at the side of the foam box that faces the bottom of the phone. The wider margin is towards the Lightening connector. The metal box goes up into the bottom of the foam box forming an “L” to the bottom of the phone. It is easier than it looks.
Never saw any gasket for the headphone jack.
Gladephone - 返信
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、音量コントロールケーブルコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
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ロジックボード上のソケットから背面カメラケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
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ロジックボードを音量コントロールボタン側に向けて裏返し、アンテナコネクターを確認します。
Hello, how do i disconnect the antenna on the rear case to put on the new rear case, this tear down never removes this antenna from the rear case.
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リアケースにリアカメラカバーを固定している1.5 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
Think the title was meant to say “Rear Facing Camera”, not “Audio Control and Power Button Cable.
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ミュート/サイレントスイッチ用ブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
This step totally confused me.
I call this the "Mute" button.
And of course, the photo is rotated 90 degrees from most of the phitos in steps leading up to this. (These are great photos, by the way.)
Agreed, the word choice was a bit odd! It's fixed now—"hold button switch" has been changed to "mute/silent switch." Thanks for your comments!
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、側壁からボリュームロッカーブラケットを折り曲げます。ボリュームロッカーを取り出します。
whilst reassembling you have to make sure the plastic buttons are the right way around, the side with no lip should go upwards.
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スパッジャーを使ってフラッシュアセンブリケーブルの下に差し込んでスライドし、電話本体から外します。
whist reassmbling the flash wouldnt go in, i then found the little lense part of the flash was still attached to the frame, and i had to remove it so the new flash would fit, this may just be on my replacement part the lense is included but if you are having trouble getting it in, check to see if there is a lense already there or not.
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Thank You edunbarr :)
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
45 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
3 件のコメント
crucial information is missing:
when removing the lightning connector module, not only the black "rubber gasket" attached to the microphone needs to be carefully transfered to the new rear case, but also
-the rectangular black plastic microphone filter with the small cylindrical extrusion, which is stuck to the case
-the grid/foam frame protecting the speaker, which is also glued to the case
-the 2 gold connector rings around the screw holes on the upper black plastic part at the bottom of the case.
-the metal piece remotely similar to a "bone" shape, two rings connected by a longer part, stuck to the lower black plastic part at the bottom of the case.
-in general the 4 metal parts screwed to the side of the case, functioning as snap-locks for the front display. (3x with 2 snap lock elements, 1x with only 1, next to the volume rocker
-the black ring round the hole where the wifi/bluetooth antenna goes, underneath the vibration motor.
depending on the case you're getting, all of these need to be transfered.
Also the transfer of the WiFi/Bluetooth antenna is completely missing. In my case the antenna to logic board connector cable broke, so i had to replace it
David -
