はじめに

Use this guide to remove the iPhone's primary rear camera.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

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Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone. The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .
  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).
  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala - 返信

Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?

Casey Baierl -

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger - 返信

Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

Margaret Burruss - 返信

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

Gary Tash - 返信

I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

mcr4u2 - 返信

Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone. If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage.
  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage.

  • Remove the battery.

  • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

  • Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils from your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange - 返信

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe -

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135 -

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474 - 返信

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928 - 返信

Remove the following five screws:
  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger - 返信

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928 - 返信

One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

kayers - 返信

Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone. Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo - 返信

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach -

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent - 返信

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion - 返信

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

13 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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This guide also works for the AT&T iPhone4S. With a little care, the RF shield can be removed without taking the battery out, though you should still disconnect it. It only takes about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Chuck Sembroski - 返信

My 4S camera has a black rubber isolator between the portion of the logic board that runs across the top of the phone and the camera body. It was covered by a black tape piece that covers the little prong that is secured between the logic board and that mounting screw. I replaced my logic board and this thing fell out. I am not certain I have it replaced properly, but the camera does not move at all and is lined up correctly, so it does fit the space. It is a C channel that fits over the edge of the logic board. I think only some phones have this. I do not see it in *any* of the various 4S guides. If it is in there it is probably important. If you remove your camera be CAREFUL to note whether you have this .25” long 2mm thick black rubber bit. If you do, CAREFULLY inspect its orientation so you can replace it if you knock it loose. Everything still works perfectly, so at least it seems I did no harm in placing it where I did.

Wade Rackley - 返信

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