はじめに
iPad Pro 10.5インチのバッテリーの取り外しと交換を行うには、このガイドを参考にしてください。
取り組む前に、バッテリーがロジックボードに接続されたままになっている場合があるため、バッテリーが完全に放電されるまでiPadの電源を入れたままにしておいてください(iPadが自動的にオフになるまで)。また充電されたリチウムイオン電池は、誤って穴を開けると発火したり、爆発したりすることがあります。
高濃度(90%以上)のイソプロピルアルコールをたくさん用意しておくと、除去や残留物の清掃が楽になります。
電池が膨張している場合は、適切な予防策をとってください。
必要な工具と部品
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iPadのホームボタン横に吸盤カップをのせて、押し込んで密閉します。
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オープニング作業をより簡単にするために考案したツール「リバースクランプ」を使用する場合は、このガイドに従ってください。
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吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げ、フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
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十分な隙間を開けたら、開口ピックを隙間に差し込みます。
i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. Be careful - It didn't damage anything. The tiny suction things that come with those iPhone kits are not strong enough for this. The one in picture might be good, but looks similar to the kits ones that have key ring.
The suction cup that comes with the iPad battery replacement is plenty large enough and strong enough.
CAUTION, do not push the picks in more than a the width of the replacement screen adhesive strips. You will damage the $200 screen, maybe break the glass. The screen is multiple layers and the picks can get in-between the layers if you push too far in. I got into trouble at the lower left corner. After getting the screen loose, I found that I only need a 2-3 millimeters on the sides and bottom, and four or five millimeters in the corners.
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ディスプレイの縁に沿って、左下隅に向かってピックをスライドさせ、画面の下の接着剤を切り離します。
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接着剤が再び着くのを防ぐため、ピックを一時的に置いておきます。
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iPadの左端に約2分間、または快適に触れることができる程度にわずかに熱を加えてください。
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必要に応じて、iOpenerを数秒または少し熱すぎて触れなくなるまで再加熱してください。iOpenerを加熱しすぎると破裂する恐れがありますので、ご注意ください。
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iPadの左下隅に2つ目のピックを挿入します。
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2つ目のピックをディスプレイの左側に沿ってスライドさせ、下の接着剤を切り離します。
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接着剤が再び着くのを防ぐため、iPadの左上付近にピックを挿入したままにしてください。
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iPadの最後の右端に約2分間、または快適に触れることができるほどわずかに熱くなるまで熱を加えてください。
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iPadの右上に4つ目のピックを挿入します。
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ピックを右下にスライドさせ、接着剤をカットします。
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ピックを右下隅にスライドさせ、必要に応じてさらに熱を加え、下端に残っている接着剤を切りますが、ホームボタンに到達する前に止めます。
We must be very careful when we are prying left and right size bezel to peel off the screen as there very little gap between edges and LCD. Slightly inside push can crack LCD. We need to pay full care and raising edges very very slowly.
iRepairMan - 返信
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iPad上部のフロントカメラ付近(ただし、直接は触れない)に5つ目のピックを差し込みます。
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ピックをゆっくりとねじって、ディスプレイ上部をiPadから浮かせます。
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必要に応じて、さらに熱を加えたり、ディスプレイが分離しないように残っている接着剤を切ったりしてください。
Be very gentle when twisting. My screen broke in this step. I would not twist it but try to remove glue further as there is a aluminium support of the screen in the wide area beneath the light sensors and there is glue on that also preventing in easy lifting the screen. Just be careful not to damage the light sensors and camera.
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ディスプレイを上端から持ち上げ、フロントカメラとヘッドホンジャックの方向に注意深くスライドさせると、バッテリー電源コネクタを固定しているネジが下に見えてきます。
How do you go about getting to this battery connector as it is covered by a large metal shield above the logic board, if you do not disconnect the battery you risk frying the back light.
The metal shield is not relevant for this. You can leave it in place or remove it if it comes of. Once the screw of the plate is removed you will be able to lift the print a little bit and put someting between the battery connector and the board connector. The connector is beneath the print. Look further on to see a deck card is used for this.
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This picture looks nothing like my A2152 battery connector. I can’t really tell what is happening here.
todd sorel - 返信
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バッテリーを外すには、バッテリーブロッカーの片方の突起、または開口ピックの先端をバッテリーの電源コネクタの下にスライドさせ、電源回路を確実に遮断します。
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バッテリーブロッカーはそのままにして作業を続けてください。
I found it very hard to fit something under the battery power connector. I did not have a battery blocker, so I tried a playing card. I was not able to slide it between the springs. The section of the battery power connector, above the cantilever springs, did not seem to want to give at all, like in the picture above. If other people had success, I would love to hear how.
I didn’t have success either, but i kept myself grounded, and avoided battery contact as much as possible.
I used a playing card cut to shape. I had to make a couple, to try a few times.. It does go in eventually. Not deep, but enough to break connection. You can test by trying to switch on iPad.
It took some time but I was able to get it under the back part and slide it forward.
You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used a playing card. Second attempt was successful with new screen.
I believe I have a good solution to this problem. I was dissatisfied with the thickness of the battery blocker, or even a thin guitar pick, for that matter; both required force and I feared bending the springs or leaving the connection intact.
What worked for me was cutting a small strip of non-conductive, static-proof film (the kind that RAM and other sensitive components come in). There was every reason to trust in its non-conductivity but just to be sure, I used a VOM to test; its resistance was out of the VOMs range, meaning that its conductivity was nil. I used a spudger to gently lift the logic board off of the battery contacts and slid the non-conductive strip in between; went without a hitch.
When reassembling, I laid the strip on the battery contacts, laid the logic board on top, installed it, connected the display panel and gently drew the slip out and installed the battery screw. Worked like a charm.
These are some extremely misleading set of instructions and picture. Much better if you have the battery discharged, so don't need to worry about blocking the connector. But DO NOT force anything in the through the socket and certainly do not try to bend up the soldered cover, as it appears to be happening in the picture. You will break the connector, most likely resulting in ipad shutting down every 3 minutes from the notorious "thermal sensor missing" panic system crash.
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上部端からディスプレイをゆっくりと持ち上げます。リボンケーブルを引っ張らないようにご注意ください。
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ディスプレイコネクタカバーのブラケットを固定している1.3mmプラスネジを2本外します。
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ディスプレイコネクタのカバーブラケットを外します。
Here it is very precocious steps to do. Flx cables to connectors are small in size and we cannot lift the display vertically. Therefore, we may struggle to unscrew the metal shield. We need to use smaller size of philip screw driver or place vertically the display to create enough gap between philip screw driver and the cover bracket. Similarly, when we are replacing new display we need to be carefully connect four flex cable with connectors with logic board.
iRepairMan - 返信
agree, with re-assembly very tiny screws and awkward positioning, the back two cables pop off if not careful.
I did this step using just the tip of the PH000 screwdriver, it made it much easier to get my hands into the small space, the replacement screen from ifixit had tighter cables that I was not comfortable stretching out to go to a 90* angle to screw back on. Make sure your tip is magnetized for best results :)!
Meaning no disrespect for this excellent guide, I found this photo to be a bit misleading; at least in my case. It clearly shows about 90˚ between the case and the display. I tested the limits with the one I was repairing and could find no way to raise the display far enough to clear a screwdriver without jeopardizing the cables. I resorted to the same solution that Amber Wooldridge discovered; using a PH000 bit and hand-tightening. I had a tiny needle-nosed plier that I used to tighten them a bit (but very gently).
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スパッジャーを使って、それらを慎重に持ち上げて、接続を外します。
I went to replace the LCD assembly on an ipad Air 3, and one of the flex cables on the new LCD assembly broke in half. The flex cables on the old assembly work well and are intact. Is it possible to transfer the old flex cable(s) to the new assembly, or can I solder the broken pieces of the new flex cable together? I have also contacted the part supplier about this and am awaiting a response.
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ディスプレイを取り外します。
Definitely test your iPad’s functions before sealing it up. I needed to reopen the display to reconnect the display connectors in order to have the display functioning properly. As a result, the adhesive strips did not work as well and I needed to tape some of the edges closed with a small section of strong clear packing tape.
I stuck the adhesive to the chassis first. That was messy because the plastic that covers the adhesive seems to be for screen side first. So you end up exposing both sides and those collect dust. I now realise you're supposed to put the adhesive on screen first. Not sure if it would have made much difference in the outcome (mine screen is not stuck in some places).
I found this out too. I had two sealing kits and they were both meant to be fixed on the screen first. I did not managed to get the screen to stick with the body as well. Now used some B6000 glue in addition.
agrior -
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プラスドライバーを使用して、EMIシールドを固定している10本のネジを外します。
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長さ1.3mmネジー8本
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少し長めのネジー2本
The top two screws are longer than the rest on my iPad. Be careful to put them back in the right spots.
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スパッジャーの平らな部分を使い、フロントカメラ付近の上端からEMIシールドを開きます。
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EMIシールドを取り外すことができるまで、慎重に開き続けてください。
The two screws adjacent to the camera location are slightly longer! Make sure you don’t mix them up with the other eight, as shorter ones will not work in this location.
Thanks! I’ve updated the step with your tip!
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スパッジャの刃で左のインターコネクトケーブルとアンテナケーブルの両方を開き、接続を切ります。邪魔にならないように静かに折りたたんでください。
wo finde ich das AntennenKabel , das ist abgerissen ?
Wo finde ich das Antennenkabel rechts und links das ist bei mir abgerissen ?
We also have no antenna cable as shown…
Brian Gray - 返信
I think you need to assume that there is glue present and apply heat anyway. In my case the cable was not glued to the board but the connector was. So when I tried to gently lever the connector up, the cable ripped off the connector.
If you look at the picture shown in step 21, you can actually see the glue on the connector.
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バッテリーブロッカーをバッテリー電源コネクターから外します。
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バッテリーブロッカーの片側をバッテリー電源コネクタの下に差し込み、SIMカードトレイのフレックスケーブル用のZIFコネクタを覆わないようにします。
What should I do to block the battery instead?
"The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board."
As the previous comment says, if this is an "outdated way" then what is the up to date way?
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絶縁ピックを使って、ZIFコネクタのロックフラップをめくります。
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ピンセットでSIMカードトレイのフレックスケーブルを引き抜いて外します。
I don't have this connector on my 10.5 Pro. Maybe this is only for equipment with cellular. This needs to be confirmed by an expert.
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この手順で使用する道具:Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
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ピンセットで残りの粘着シート部分をはがします。
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新しいバッテリー を取り付ける前に、イソプロピルアルコールと糸くずの出ない布で接着部分をきれいにし、バッテリーが正しい位置に適合し、接着剤が正しく接着されることを確認します。
After a successful battery replacement we ran into an issue where the iPad Pro would crash once or twice a day. I made sure to calibrate the battery per repair instructions but that didn’t fix the issue. I got it resolved after backing up the iPad and then putting it into DFU mode through iTunes and installed a fresh copy of iPadOS and then restore from backup. That fixed the issue of iPad crashing. Hope this helps if you run into a similar issue.
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交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを取り付ける前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、この手順を逆にたどってください。
可能であれば、タブレットを再封する前にiPadの電源を入れ、テストが上手くいったかどうか点検をしてください 。
最適なパフォーマンスを得るために、このガイドを完了した後、新しく取り付けたバッテリーを較正してください。100%まで充電し、さらに最低2時間充電し続けます。その後、バッテリー残量が少なくなってシャットダウンするまでデバイスを使用します。最後に、100%まで途切れることなく充電してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシューティングには、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティ を参照してください。
交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを取り付ける前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、この手順を逆にたどってください。
可能であれば、タブレットを再封する前にiPadの電源を入れ、テストが上手くいったかどうか点検をしてください 。
最適なパフォーマンスを得るために、このガイドを完了した後、新しく取り付けたバッテリーを較正してください。100%まで充電し、さらに最低2時間充電し続けます。その後、バッテリー残量が少なくなってシャットダウンするまでデバイスを使用します。最後に、100%まで途切れることなく充電してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシューティングには、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティ を参照してください。
47 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか?
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12 件のコメント
If you say the “the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated” then what is the correct way to isolate the battery?!?! The rest of the guide makes no mention of the correct/prefered method of isolating the battery.
How is it that the author took the time to update the guide with that message but failed to mention what should be done instead
Good point! We are currently still researching a more reliable alternative to the battery isolation procedure. As of now, the battery blocker method still works—it just has substantial dangers. This is especially true for iPad Pros, where the Logic Board is adhered to the frame. I’ve reworded the warnings to reflect this.
Hi can you advise please? In step 25 the SIM card tray flex cable is disconnected, no problem apart from i don’t have a SIM card tray flex cable in the A1701 that i’m repairing!! Urgent assistance required please. Regards R
You have the Wi-Fi model, which will look slightly different and have different procedures compared to the cellular model. You can skip the SIM flex cable step.
Ich habe diese Antennenkabel defekt wo bekomme ich sie oder für was sind die ?
hi
I fixed my battery according to the guide.
I have two problem
1. battery screw not able screw back in. but I am able to turn on iPad.
2. after turning on I am not able to unlock because on the keypad 1, 2, 3, these keys not responding to the touch. all other keys are touch responsive.
kindly help me with these two issues.
many thanks
I just finished following this guide, thank you so much for writing it!
I know that 18 of the 43 involve dealing with glue, but JEEZ that’s still underselling how much glue is in this thing.
The iOpener worked surprisingly well for removing the display. But the iFixit adhesive remover was not effective for removing the old battery. After 5 minutes, the solvent only ate around the edges of the adhesive strips and made a huge gooey mess with the center still sticky. After 10 minutes the glue had already re-adhered. I recommend anyone reading this try heat first, and see whether that works for you.
FWIW, I skipped the steps with the battery blocker since there doesn’t seems to be consensus on how to do it safely. I just made sure the battery was completely dead so the backlight couldn’t turn on and fry anything even if it wanted to.
Either way, after about 3 hours start to finish including cleanup (man there was a lot of cleanup) I’m very happy to say that I have a new battery and everything is working perfectly!!
thanks for the guide, after fighting against the glue, and sweeting like i was running a marathon i just replaced the stupid battery, the only problem, its that the top right speaker sounds baad, like its loose or something, and its weird, because i never touch it, ill try to open it tomorrow and see what's the problem
The guide should include a warning not to clean the glue around the edges of the screen after opening. Or, at least not use any solvent. Any liquid you use will leak in between the digitizer and LCD, hence ruining your display. Another comment though, why the battery I bought like two weeks ago is made in May of 2019?
Shi-zun Fu - 返信
I was lucky enough to take off the adhesive from the Logic board and the battery without using any solvents and used just my hair dryer. You definitely need to be patient with the process and not force it. Putting the new battery back on, as well as putting back on the display, and camera was super quick. Those darn new screen adhesives are a pain to put on but once the screen sits flush with the body, it was totally worth it. Think I spend about an hour and a half total. Battery isolation with the little pick did help out and felt safe having it in place throughout the repair process. Having the locations of where the battery adhesives were located, as well as the Smart connector was super clutch! I appreciate the disclaimers and warnings all throughout the repair guide.
Just to provide some failing experience and heads-up: My LCD screen has cracks and flickering after the battery replacement. I think it’s because when removing the screen I used the suction cup too frequently and added too much pressure to the screen when using it. Try to use the iOpener and the pick for most of the time for removing the screen.