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iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換

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  1. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, iOpenerの使用方法: 手順 1、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, iOpenerの使用方法: 手順 1、 2の画像 2
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 返信

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 返信

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 返信

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 返信

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 返信

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 返信

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 返信

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 返信

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - 返信

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - 返信

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - 返信

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - 返信

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - 返信

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - 返信

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - 返信

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - 返信

  2. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。過熱すると、iOpenerが破裂することがあります。100˚Cを超えるまで加熱しないでください。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 返信

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 返信

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 返信

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - 返信

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - 返信

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - 返信

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - 返信

  3. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 返信

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - 返信

  4. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, iOpenerを使った他の温熱方法: 手順 4、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, iOpenerを使った他の温熱方法: 手順 4、 2の画像 2
    • 電子レンジがない場合は、熱湯の中にiOpener をいれて温める方法もあります。

    • 鍋を十分な量のお湯で満たして、iOpener を完全に沈めます。

    • お湯を沸かして熱くなったら火を止めます

    • iOpenerを熱湯の中に約2−3分間沈めます。iOpener全体が完全に浸かっているか確認してください。

    • トングなどを浸かって、温まったiOpenerをお湯から取り出します。

    • タオルでiOpener全体を拭き取ります。

    • iOpenerが非常に熱い場合は、先端のタブを持って火傷をしないようにご注意ください。

    • iOpenerの準備は整いました。iOpenerを再度温める必要がある場合は、お湯を沸騰させて、火を止めてからiOpenerを2-3分間浸してください。

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - 返信

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - 返信

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - 返信

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - 返信

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - 返信

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - 返信

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネル: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネル: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネル: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイガラスにひびが入った場合は、ダメージが広がらないように、また作業中怪我などしないように、ガラスにテープを貼ります。

    • クリアタイプのテープをiPadのディスプレイ上に何重にも合わせて貼ります。ディスプレイ表面全体が覆われるようにしてください。

    • これはひびが入ってしまったガラスの構造を保ち、こじ開けて引き上げた作業の際にガラスが飛び散るのを防ぎます。

    • できるだけこのガイドに表記されている手順に従って作業を進めてください。しかしながら、一度ガラスが壊れてしまったら、作業が進むに連れて程度が酷くなる場合があります。この場合、ガラスを取り出すにはメタル製のこじ開けるツールが必要となります。

    • 目を保護するために保護メガネをかけて作業をしてください。また液晶ディスプレイスクリーンにダメージが入らないよう注意してください。

    In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

    - I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

    - Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

    - Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

    - Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

    - Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

    - Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

    - If needed: repeat in other direction.

    - If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

    Good luck, you brave person!

    volty - 返信

    This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

    Bill Roughen - 返信

  6. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • iPadの横、ホームボタンアセンブリの左側に温めたiOpenerを配置します。

    • ガラスの下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくするために、iOpenerを約5分間そのままにして置きます。

    I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

    jaromhyde - 返信

  7. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • 温めた側の真ん中に吸盤ップを取り付けます。

    • カップがしっかりと密封された状態でスクリーン上で完全に平らな状態で装着されているか確認してください。

    • iPadを片手で持ちながら、吸盤カップを背面ケースから正面パネルガラスを引き離すように引っ張り上げます。

    • 開口ピックが差し込める隙間ができるまで吸盤カップを引き上げてください。それ以上引っ張ると、ガラスにひびが入ってしまうリスクがあります。

    This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

    robloomis - 返信

    just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

    echow2001 -

    for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

    George - 返信

  8. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 8、 3の画像 3
    • 吸盤カップをガラスに付けたまま固定しながら、ガラスとiPad本体の間に生じた隙間に開封ピックを差し込みます。

    • ディスプレイ側の黒色の淵以上深く開口ピックを差し込まないでください。ピックを奥まで入れてしまうと液晶ディスプレイにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    • 吸盤カップのプラスチックノブを押し上げて吸盤力を弱め、吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリから取り外します。

    you have to pull up on the suction cup harder than you might be comfortable with!

    jfaulks1 - 返信

    thanks jfaulks1 (I did not copy and paste lol)

    iliketrains kid - 返信

  9. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • iOpenerを再度温めて同じ場所に配置します。

    • 修理作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。iOpenerを温める際は、前回から少なくとも10分間あけてください。

    • そのまま2−3分間置いたままにしてから、再度iPadの左側にiOpenerを配置します。

  10. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 10、 3の画像 3
    • 2番目の開口ピックを最初のピックの隣に差し込み、iPadの端に沿ってピックを使いながら接着剤を剥がし、下方にスライドさせます。

    • 以下の手順全てに渡って、ガラスの下でピックをスライドさせる際にかなりの抵抗力を感じたら、作業を止めて、該当箇所を再度温めてください。力ずくでピックをスライドさせるとガラスにひびが入ってしまいます。

  11. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックをディスプレイの横に差し込み、接着剤を剥がしながら下向きに動かします。

    • 開口ピックが接着剤に詰まってしまったら、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がし、ピックを”ひねって”動かします。

  12. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 12、 3の画像 3
    • iPadの上部端に向かって最初に差し込んだピックをスライドさせます。

    • 開口ピックの先端がフロントガラス越しに見えても驚かないでください。ピックを少し外側に引いてください。大体の場合は問題ありませんが、液晶ディスプレイ側の正面側に接着剤がついてしまうと取り除くのに時間がかかるためご注意ください。

  13. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの上部端、正面カメラ上に配置します。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。少なくとも再度温めるまでに10分間、間隔をあけてください。

    • 曲がるタイプのiOpenerをお持ちの場合は、上部左端の角と上部端を同時に温めることができます。

    I left my iOpener on the bezel the entire time I slid picks in. worked great

    jfaulks1 - 返信

  14. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 14、 3の画像 3
    • iPadの上部左端まで開口ピックをスライドして接着剤を剥がします。

    Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

    Padraic Hoselton - 返信

    :( sad (rip glass lol)

    iliketrains kid - 返信

  15. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックをiPadの上部端に沿ってスライドさせ、カメラまで到達したら止めます。

    • 3番目の画像はiPadの内部のどこに正面カメラがあるか示したものです。

    • 正面カメラの上に開口ピックをスライドさせないでください。レンズの上に接着剤が付いてしまうとカメラを傷つけてしまいます。次の手順では正面カメラを傷つけないように作業を続ける詳細があります。

  16. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • 開口ピックを少し引いて、丁寧に正面カメラの上部に沿って先端部分をスライドします。

  17. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 17、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 17、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 17、 3の画像 3
    • iPadの開口ピックを正面カメラを少し通過した地点で挟んだまま留めます。

    • 2番目のピックを取り出してカメラの左側に差し込みます。そこから接着剤を完全に剥がしながら左側の角に向かってスライドします。

    • 接着剤が冷めて再装着するのを防ぐため、左側の角に差し込んだまま置きます。

  18. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 18、 3の画像 3
    • 前回カメラ付近で置いたままの開口ピックをiPadの奥深くへ差し込み、カメラから右側端に向かってスライドします。

    Shattered my screen pretty bad here, making it so that whenever I continued to move the pick the glass separated and I couldn’t continue moving it. Be VERY gentle moving the pick; almost no force is required.

    Jasper Holden - 返信

  19. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 19、 1の画像 1
    • 3番目のピックをiPadの角に差し込んだままの状態にして正面パネルの接着剤が再装着しないようにします。

    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの縦長サイドーボリュームとロックボタン側に載せます。

  20. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • 上部右側にピックを差し込み、上部端のガラス周辺を接着剤から完全に剥がすまで十分にスライドさせます。

    • このピックをそのままの位置に置いたまま、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぎます。それからまた新しいピックを取って次の手順に進みましょう。

  21. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 3
    • 新しい開口ピックを差し込み、iPadの右側端から中央までスライドします。ピックを進めながら接着剤を剥がします。

  22. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 3
    • それからiPadの右側端の下まで接着剤を剥がしながらスライドさせます。

  23. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 23、 1の画像 1
    • iOpenerを再度温めて、開口ピックを画像にある位置に載せます。

    • iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。前回温めてから少なくとも10分間隔をあけてください。

    • 再度温めたiOpenerをiPadのホームボタン側端の上に載せます。ガラスの下に付けられた接着剤が柔らかくなるまで2~3分間そのままにします。

  24. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 3
    • 左側の下にピックを差し込み、スライドさせながら左側下の角の接着剤を完全に剥ぎ取ります。

    • 角にピックを残します。これ以上iPadから動かしたり、こじ開けたりしないでください。

    • 下部ベゼルの底には接触を避けたいパーツが幾つかあります。3番目の画像で何があるのか見てみましょう。

    • アンテナ

    • ホームボタンの穴

    • デジタイザーケーブル

    • 次の手順ではこれらのコンポーネントにダメージを与えないで作業をする方法が書かれています。熱で温めて、記された箇所のみこじ開けてください。

  25. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 25、 3の画像 3
    • 前回の手順のピックをそのままの位置にのこします。接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためです。

    • 新しいピックを取り出して、左側のアンテナの上を丁寧にスライスしながら移動させ、ホームボタンの手前で止めます。

    • 外側の端からiPadの中心に向かってピックをスライドさせてください。中心から外側に向かって移動させないでください。この方向に動かすとアンテナにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    • 再度ピックで下部端をスライドさせたい場合は同じく外側から中央部分に向かってスライドさせます。

    • 次の手順に移る前にピックをホームボタン手前で止めます。

  26. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 3
    • 前の手順で使用したピックの隣に新しいピックの先端のみを差し込んで、ホームボタンの下をスライドさせます。

    • ホームボタンの右側から1インチほどスライドさせたら、デジタイザーケーブルを切断しないよう、その位置で止めます。

    • ピックを少し深くまで差し込み、ホームボタンまで丁寧にスライドしながら戻します。

    • iPadの外側から中心に向かってピックをスライドしてください。反対側にスライドするとガラスの下にあるアンテナを傷つけてしまう恐れがあります。

  27. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの上部ベゼルに載せます。

  28. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • この手順では特に注意が必要です。接着剤が温められて柔らかくなっているか確認しましょう。開口ピックで全体の接着剤を剥がしていきます。必要に応じて作業を止めてiOpenerを温めて作業を継続します。

    • ホームボタンの真上にあたるiPad上部では、両側コーナーにピックが挟まれた状態になっています。このピックをガラスを少しずつひねりながら押し上げていき、それぞれ4方の角の接着剤を完全に剥がします。

    • 接着剤の抵抗がまだ強い場合は、ひねるのをやめて、ピックをそのままの位置に残し、iOpenerを再度温めて問題のある箇所にあててください。

  29. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 29、 2の画像 2
    • iPad下部の両端から接着剤をゆっくりと丁寧に剥がして持ち上げます。

    Really, add a few more pics and a few more picks, see how long and difficult you can make this guide. 26 steps to get the top screen off is ridiculous.

    B. A. Computer Services - 返信

  30. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 30、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 30、 2の画像 2
    • 全ての接着剤がはがれたら、フロントガラスを本のページをめくるように開きます。

    • 再組み立て中にフロントパネルアセンブリを再利用する場合は、ディスプレイの接着剤を交換する必要があります。 ディスプレイ接着剤の装着ガイドを参照して、デバイスを密封します。

    I recommend wearing latex gloves or be sure not to put too many finger prints on the front or back of this front glass when lifting it or completing the remainder of the steps. I made this mistake and upon installing the new LCD and putting the iPad back together I realized that I left a few finger prints on the inside of the front glass. After re-securing the adhesive strips putting the iPad back together there are now unremovable fingerprints visible when the LCD is turned off. Just a recommendation on the gloves or be sure to wipe both sides of the front glass clean before putting all back together.

    Christian Screen - 返信

  31. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 3
    • 正面カメラのケーシングはフロントパネルに装着されています。カメラのケーシングを剥がして、カメラを保護するためにこれを元の位置に戻します。

    • カメラのケーシングを接着剤から剥がすため、カメラのケーシングの端を揺らしてフロントパネルから取り出します。

    • 背面ケースの中に正面カメラのケーシングを戻します。

    this didn’t happen to me BUT the glue was still sticking to the top of the glass because one pick had gone OVER the glue and the other under, so I had to pull the glue off and cut it with scissors

    jfaulks1 - 返信

    OK this was glue, it was the tape from step 35!

    jfaulks1 - 返信

  32. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 32、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 32、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 32、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイを背面ケースに留めている上部と下部右側のネジを覆っているフォーム製テープがあります。

    • ピンセットを使って、上部右側の液晶ディスプレイに留められたネジを覆っている長方形フォーム製テープを取り外します。

    • 下部右側の液晶ディスプレイに留められた長方形のテープを外します。

  33. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 33、 2の画像 2
    • 液晶ディスプレイ上部左側のネジは正面パネルからの接着テープによって覆われていることがあります。

    • テープが確認できたら、スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってテープを取り除き、下にある液晶ディスプレイのネジを現します。

  34. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 34、 1の画像 1
    • 背面ケースに留められた液晶ディスプレイから3.9 mm #000プラスネジを4本外します。

    In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

    mitja

    Mitja Jankovic - 返信

    Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

    Walter Galan -

    The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

    sandro - 返信

    On mine the top right screw is longer

    oliver - 返信

    top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

    sagert - 返信

    ipad mini wifi no screws are longer

    iliketrains kid - 返信

  35. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 2
    • ピンセットの先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイフレームと右側のスピーカーを接続させているテープの小さなパーツを剥いで外します。

    I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

    K8L - 返信

  36. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 36、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 36、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 36、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームに留められたフォーム製の長細く薄いテープは液晶ディスプレイとその下に埋められたパネルを接続させているテープの上に貼られています。手順を進めるには、このテープの下に隠れているパーツを確認するため、フォーム製のテープの一部分を剥ぎ取る必要があります。

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイ周辺のフォーム型テープの上部をつまみます。

    • ピンセットで液晶ディスプレイに接触しないようにご注意ください。ディスプレイ全体にダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    • ピンセットを使って、液晶ディスプレイ上部に出ているフォーム製テープを取り出します。

  37. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームと液晶ディスプレイ上部に留められたテープの隙間にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームとテープの間のスペースにスパッジャーを差し込んでスライドをさせ、テープを液晶ディスプレイフレームから剥がしていきます。

    I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

    Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

    Kenneth Snyder - 返信

  38. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 2
    • 液晶ディスプレイは左右両側の端と上部に沿ったメタル製の液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートに接着剤で留められています。この接着剤を安全に取り外すには、左右の端に開封ピック(ギターピック)を差し込んで数ミリ単位で少しずつ押し上げる作業を数回繰り返すことです。

    • ピックを液晶ディスプレイと背面ケースの間の隙間、液晶ディスプレイの左側上部に差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイと背面ケースの間の隙間が十分広がるように、ピックをiPadの裏側に向かって引き上げるように曲げていきます。

    I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

    bababooey - 返信

    The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

    Brandon Lukasik - 返信

    This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

    Dan Harris - 返信

    Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

    brauliox - 返信

    I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

    northstar - 返信

    I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

    northstar - 返信

    I was able to do this the first time w/out damaging the LCD simply by following the instructions to the letter, slowly and carefully. The only thing I did differently was to follow Northstar’s instructions to remove the two pieces of tape at the bottom of the LCD before beginning.

    Jenny Lawson - 返信

    I found a good way to remove the LCD without breaking it. Once you finish to clean up around the LCD just lift a bit one of the white metal backing plate and insert in the gap a plastified playing card under le LCD and slowly make your way to the center of the LCD. Repeat on the other side and the LCD will lift up intact.

    lemerise - 返信

    nothing Brocken after

    (I did not read the comments before doing it lol)

    iliketrains kid - 返信

  39. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 39、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイの左側下にピックを3箇所差し込み、各場所でピックを折り曲がるように固定し、背面ケースの右側端に向かって液晶ディスプレイをスライドします。

  40. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイの右側サイドに作業を移します。液晶ディスプレイの裏側から左側サイドに沿ってギターピックでこじ開けます。

    • この作業と前回の作業を数回繰り返します。液晶ディスプレイが左右に簡単に動くようになったら作業を止めます。

  41. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 41、 3の画像 3
    • 次の手順ではスパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイとメタル製バッキングプレートの間に差し込みます。スライドさせながら、液晶ディスプレイとその下に留められた接着剤を完全に剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端を液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製固定プレートの間に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーが液晶ディスプレイフレームと固定プレートの間に挟まれているか確認してください。プレートの下に差し込まないでください。プレート上をこじ開けるとダメージを与えてしまいます。なぜなら、液晶ディスプレイ下の背面ケースに対してネジが留められているからです。

  42. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 42、 3の画像 3
    • デバイスの上部右からスパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製バッキングプレートの間に差し込み、スライドさせながら接着剤を剥がします。

    • このゴールは接着剤を剥がすためで、液晶ディスプレイをこじ開けるためではありません。液晶ディスプレイを傷つけないように、スパッジャーの先端をできるだけ低く持ってください。

    • スパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイの角に差し込んでしまうと曲がってしまいます。前回の作業と同様に、まず開封(ギター)ピックを差し込んで接着剤を緩めていきます。

    These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

    Padraic Hoselton - 返信

  43. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 43、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 43、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 43、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイの上部に沿って前回の手順を繰り返します。

    • 液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製固定プレートの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込み、丁寧に接着剤を剥がしながら、デバイスの上部に差し込み、反対側まで押し込みます。

  44. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 44、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 44、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 44、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイの左側も同じように作業を繰り返します。液晶ディスプレイとシールドプレートの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を挟み、できるだけ奥まで押し込みます。

    • この時点で、液晶ディスプレイは付けられた接着剤から緩めていなければなりません。そうでない場合は、液晶ディスプレイを完全に取り出すために、右側横か上部にスパッジャーを再度差し込みます。

  45. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 45、 1の画像 1
    • 液晶ディスプレイを背面ケースから数インチ押し上げます。ディスプレイから接着剤が剥がれていることを確認します。

    When I did it I found that the adhesive sticking was mainly on the edges, so if you take a spudger and just break that adhesive carefully it will help. Be gentle lifting the lcd as it’s very breakable.

    Jasper Holden - 返信

  46. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 46、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 46、 2の画像 2
    • 2本の幅広のテープが、液晶ディスプレイとスピーカーを接続しています。

    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で持ちながら、スパッジャーの平面側先端をこのテープと左側スピーカーの間の隙間に差し込みます。

    • スピーカーからテープを剥がすため、スパッジャーを外側に回転させながら、丁寧に液晶ディスプレイをスピーカーから引き離します。

    I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

    northstar - 返信

  47. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 47、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 47、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を右側スピーカーと液晶ディスプレイのテープの間に差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイをスピーカーから引き離しながら、スパッジャーを外側に回して、テープとスピーカーの隙間を広くします。

  48. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 48、 2の画像 2
    • 液晶ディスプレイをひっくり返して、フロントパネルのガラスの上に載せます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイをiPadから完全に外さないでください。まだデーターケーブルが接続されています。

  49. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイのシールドプレート: 手順 49、 1の画像 1
    • iPadの背面ケースに留められた液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートより次のネジを外します。

    • 2.6 mm #00プラスネジー2本

    • 1.7 mm #00プラスネジー13本

    • 1.7 mm #00プラスネジー1本(デバイスの種類によって有無があります)

    At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

    sandro - 返信

    On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

    volty - 返信

    On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

    gfriedman99 - 返信

    I have a missing plate and screws

    Keah Smith - 返信

  50. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 50、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 50、 2の画像 2
    • iPadの下側端から液晶ディスプレイのシールドプレートのセンター下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを背面ケース側のプレートを外すように差し込んだ後押し上げます。

  51. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 51、 1の画像 1
    • iPadから液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートを取り出します。

    theres a lip on the rear case that prevents you from lifting this straight out, be careful to not bend the plate.

    jfaulks1 - 返信

    Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.

    Bill Shannon - 返信

  52. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, バッテリーコネクターの交換: 手順 52、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードにコネクターシールドを留めている 1.3 mm #00プラスネジを3本外します。

    • これらの3本のネジを他のネジと混在しないようにご注意ください。特にiPadの背面ケースに液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートを留めているネジは重要です。これらのネジは若干長く、ネジがネジ穴を貫通してしまい、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことになります。

    Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

    jessabethany - 返信

    Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

    Walter Galan -

    Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

    sandro - 返信

  53. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 53、 1の画像 1
    • ピンセットの先端を使って、iPadからコネクターシールドを掴んで外します。

  54. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 54、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 54、 2の画像 2
    • プラスチック製開封用ツールを使って、ロジックボードのソケットからバッテリーコネクターを丁寧に引き上げます。

    • バッテリーコネクターのみに接触するよう作業は慎重に行ってください。ソケット自体には触らないでください。ロジックボードのソケットを引き上げてしまうと、コネクター全体にダメージを与えてしまいます。

    Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

    Mattis - 返信

    I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

    Grillwrecka -

    Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

    Andrew Kivell -

    There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

    jessabethany -

    After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

    While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

    Michael Vovaris - 返信

    Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

    WolfyHD - 返信

    I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

    Rory Filer - 返信

  55. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイ: 手順 55、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, 液晶ディスプレイ: 手順 55、 2の画像 2
    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボードのソケットから液晶ディスプレイコネクターを外します。

    • コネクター隣の大型 ICに接触しないでください。壊れてしまう可能性があります。画像に示しているように、丁寧にコネクターの横から外します。

    Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

    Michael Vovaris - 返信

    Does it shares the same shape/size of the LCD connector between the ipad mini wifi only WHITE and the other one ipad mini 32gb BLACK?

    muhammadbukhari10 - 返信

  56. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 56、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 56、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 56、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイは、背面ケースの内部から液晶ディスプレイフレームの正面側下部に接続する2本の太い接着テープにより、iPadとまだ繋がっています。

    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で押さえながら、スパッジャーの平面側先端を液晶ディスプレイとiPadの右側のテープの間に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを外側に向けてスライドします。液晶ディスプレイからテープを剥がすため、少し持ち上げながら動かしてください。

    • 残り部分の隙間を広げて、液晶ディスプレイからテープを剥がすため、スパッジャーをひねりながら動かすと効果的です。

    Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

    Dave Davidson - 返信

    When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

    Muhammed Kilic - 返信

    When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

    Muhammed Kilic - 返信

    Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

    Rory Filer - 返信

    on mine this tape was already loose.

    jfaulks1 - 返信

  57. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 57、 3の画像 3
    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で押さえたまま、iPadの左側にスパッジャーを動かし、2番目のテープを剥がすために前回と同じ手順を繰り返してください。

    • 液晶ディスプレイフレームとテープの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込み、液晶ディスプレイをゆっくりと持ち上げながら外側に向かってスライドします。

  58. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 58、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 58、 2の画像 2
    • iPad Miniから液晶ディスプレイを持ち上げて取り出します。

  59. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネルアセンブリ: 手順 59、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネルアセンブリ: 手順 59、 2の画像 2
    • デジタイザーのコネクタのみ引き上げるように十分注意しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ソケットとコネクターはとても壊れやすいので、どちらかにダメージを与えてしまうとデジタイザーが機能しなくなります。

    • ソケットに加わるストレスを最小化するには、画像にあるように、コネクタの短辺側下をこじ開けてください。

    • ロジックボード上のソケットからデジタイザーコネクタを慎重にこじ開けます。

  60. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 60、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 60、 2の画像 2
    • 背面ケースからデジタイザーケーブルボードを丁寧に引き上げます。

    Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

    Simon - 返信

    There is adhesive holding it down, so it may take some time to get it off. It helped me to push with my spudger on the piece with the yellow text instead from the same side.

    Jasper Holden - 返信

    I put the iOpener under the iPad to weaken the adhesive for this step.

    Nathan Lloyd - 返信

  61. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 61、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 61、 2の画像 2
    • iPadから正面パネルを持ち上げて、取り出します。

    == After step 55 ==

    Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

    Good Luck!!!!

    Mike - 返信

    If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

    Mike -

    might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

    gfriedman99 - 返信

    If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

    Jennifer Fordyce - 返信

    Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

    northstar -

  62. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, デジタイザケーブルを装着する: 手順 62、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, デジタイザケーブルを装着する: 手順 62、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, デジタイザケーブルを装着する: 手順 62、 3の画像 3
    • 交換用のパネルには、このケーブルがあらかじめ取り付けられている場合があります。

    • 交換用のフロントパネルで、デジタイザケーブルの接着剤のシールを剥がします。

    • デジタイザーケーブルを後ろ向きに折り曲げて、接着剤が固定するようにしっかりと押します。

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - 返信

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - 返信

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - 返信

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - 返信

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - 返信

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - 返信

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - 返信

    In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

    Clément Marshall - 返信

  63. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネルの準備をする: 手順 63、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, フロントパネルの準備をする: 手順 63、 2の画像 2
    • ディスプレイを固定する前に、iPadの電源を入れ、すべての機能をテストするのに良い機会です。続行する前に、必ずiPadの電源を完全に落としてください。

    • 新しいフロントパネル・アセンブリをインストールする場合、以下の準備が必要な場合があります

    • ガラスの内側にある大きな透明なプラスチックのライナーをはがします。

    • フロントパネルアセンブリの周囲にある接着剤を覆っている青いプラスチック製のライナーを全て剥がします。

    • 取り外すと、接着ストリップが露出します。フロントパネルアセンブリを取り付ける準備ができるまで、これらの背面シールを取り外さないでください。

    • 黄色のカプトンテープや黒い電気テープなど、アウトライン部分のコッパーの被覆を剥がさないでください。

    • ガラスパネルに指紋や汚れがないことを確認してから、デバイスに装着してください。

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - 返信

  64. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, スマートカバーのマグネットを移植: 手順 64、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換, スマートカバーのマグネットを移植: 手順 64、 2の画像 2
    • 新しいフロントパネルを挿入する前に、古いフロントパネル上にあるスマートカバーマグネットを新しいフロントパネルに移してください。

    • プラスチック開封ツールをフロントパネルアセンブリ上部の左側端付近にあるマグネット両側にあてます。

    • 丁寧に右側のプラスチック開封ツールをマグネットの下のエッジにあてます。

    • しっかりと右側のプラスチック開封ツールを動かないように固定します。

    • 左側のプラスチック開封ツールをマグネットの下に差し込み、同時に押し上げながら右側のプラスチック製開封ツール側に向かって押します。

    • スマートカバーマグネットは強力な接着剤で固定されているため、かなりの力が必要です。

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - 返信

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - 返信

    On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.

    Clément Marshall - 返信

  65. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 65、 1の画像 1
    • 必要であればピンセットを使って、フロントパネルアセンブリの下部左側端付近にあるスマートカバーマグネットを覆うテープを剥がします。

    In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!

    Sara Austin - 返信

    Hi, I’d like to know if this magnets are necessary to maintain the screen attach, if they do something beside the adhesive. Thank you for your help.

    castrofabian - 返信

  66. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 66、 2の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 66、 2の画像 2
    • フロントパネルアセンブリの下部左側端付近のスマートカバーマグネットを外すため、前の手順の方法に従ってください。

  67. iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 67、 3の画像 1 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 67、 3の画像 2 iPad Mini CDMAのフロントパネルアセンブリの交換: 手順 67、 3の画像 3
    • この手順ではスマートカバーマグネットを新しいパネルアセンブリに移します。

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、丁寧に上部左側のスマートカバーマグネットを定位置に配置します。

    • スマートカバーマグネットの下部左側の部分でも同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • 必要に応じてプラスチック製オープニングツールの先端を使って、左側スマートカバーマグネット下部に貼るテープがまっすぐ平らにようにしてください。

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - 返信

    Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.

    ted -

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - 返信

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - 返信

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - 返信

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - 返信

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - 返信

    Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.

    ted -

    If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

    ted - 返信

    You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

    Clément Marshall - 返信

    Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)

    Emerald - 返信

    There is no mention anywhere about ingress of dust between the cover glass and the LCD…is this a nonissue??

    Jordan Clayson - 返信

    Just finished the digitizer replacement by buying a new one for $10 rather than pay $120 to get it repaired. Everything works great! A few tips that weren't mentioned:
    1) I used a hair dryer on low heat for 30-40 secs and it softened the adhesive enough to pry it open.
    2) If you have the wifi iPad (non-cellular), you don't have to worry about the antenna when prying, as it doesn't have one.
    3) Be sure to remove the old adhesive by pulling it off the iPad frame so your new digitizer can sit tight and flush. Most new digitizers have adhesive included (very convenient), just peel off the blue cover vinyl as your final step.
    4) Try to use something to cover the LCD screen from fingerprints and dust. I had to use a wet wipe to gently wipe down the LCD. I couldn't get every smudge off but it proved not to matter as it was not noticeable upon completion.

    Hope this helps!

    Christian Lee - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。

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12 件のコメント

Replacement comes with glass only, Do I have to use some glue to stick it onto LCD? I doubt yellow stickers will do the job. Thank you

Dew - 返信

I broke my LCD while doing this repair - be extremely careful when prying off broken digitizer, I got the pick a little too far in and lifted, putting pressure on the LCD. I didnt know the LCD was broken until powering on the device. Total bummer. Replacing LCD now. The stickers are garbage. Use an adhesive instead, dont even waste your time with the stickers.

crbucher - 返信

i love this website but with the ipad mini, it would really be beneficial to have a reassembly guide because of the level of difficulty. There is a lot left up to chance. LIke the yellow tape that comes around the ribbon cable. Do we remove it or not? Some say do...the guide doesnt mention it at all because it just covers removal, not reassembly. Plus there are a few metal contacts that come covered that are not covered in the replacement digitizer.

gocaps25 - 返信

I would add extra adhesive on the bottom and especially the right corner of any iPad mini replacement. Even with the digitizer cable folded properly there has still been a tiny gap between front panel and body. A little extra adhesive makes that go away.

gocaps25 - 返信

A reverse order would be great as noted above. Otherwise, i have it together and powered on and it works. I have books sitting on i pad hoping adhesive will adhere. I may use the iOpener on it to warm up adhesive and let it cool again. Thank you..

Shawn Bailey - 返信

I tried to replace the glass on my wife's IPAD but it was already very shattered. At one point when I attempted to suction cup an edge, the glass really shattered and I guess shattered the LCD panel as well when I didn't notice it. The glass panel went back on very well. But because the LCD panel was now shattered, the unit looked great but wasn't working. Great experience, but if the glass is shattered as my was, it's unlikely you will be able to repair the unit.

rusty - 返信

It must have been pretty bad. Mine was shattered in several places around the edge and I was able to repair it. It was not as simple as just following the instructions - it took me more than 2 hours just to get the glass off - the whole repair is supposed to be a 2 hour job, LOL

Rory Filer -

Just starting an ipad mini screen replacement and I am unsure what to do on step 45 with the speaker tape. That step isn't too helpful and looking at the ipad it isn't obvious. Can anyone make it clearer for me please as I do not want to damage anything. Thanks.

Jim Russell - 返信

Hi Jim. I don't have the original unit on me, but if you zoom into the photos, you can see a couple pieces of foam adhesive between the speakers and the LCD. I made a gif that may highlight the procedure a little better: http://imgur.com/a/AQ5Dc.

Evan Noronha -

On the question of adhesives - the one place I worried about was the digitizer circuit board. The old adhesive was not strong enough to hold it in place. I put a small drop of contact cement on the bottom side of the board and that seemed to hold it. For all other areas except the glass (i.e. mostly tape) saved everything I peeled off and put it back during the reassembly. For the glass, which came with an adhesive strip around its edge, I used the heating pad and some small plastic clamps to hold it in place while it cooled. Seemed to do the trick.

Overall these instructions are very good and they work fine provided you take your time and read them all once or twice _before_ starting to do the job.

Rory Filer - 返信

Finish :-) Thanks to an good guide. Took 52 minutes! iPad looks New!

Ingar Jarle - 返信

When I did this repair, I didn’t have the iOpener so I used a hairdryer. When removing the glass and any time the glue would start to get hard, I’d warm it just slightly. I didn’t have that much trouble with the glass though, it was pretty shattered at the top and I ended up having to pick the pieces of glass off one at a time with tweezers. When put the screen back on, I used the tape adhesive that came with the glass, but I warmed the edges of iPad up again to help get the glue to adhere. Haven’t had any problems with the device yet.

I agree that a reverse order addition would be helpful, but it’s not too necessary if you just scroll back up through the directions.

Keeley O'Connor - 返信

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