1. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

      • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 返信

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - 返信

  2. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 返信

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 返信

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 返信

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 返信

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 返信

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 返信

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - 返信

    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 返信

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 返信

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    • ディスプレイガラスにひびが入った場合は、ダメージが広がらないように、また作業中怪我などしないように、ガラスにテープを貼ります。

    • クリアタイプのテープをiPadのディスプレイ上に何重にも合わせて貼ります。ディスプレイ表面全体が覆われるようにしてください。

      • これはひびが入ってしまったガラスの構造を保ち、こじ開けて引き上げた作業の際にガラスが飛び散るのを防ぎます。

    • できるだけこのガイドに表記されている手順に従って作業を進めてください。しかしながら、一度ガラスが壊れてしまったら、作業が進むに連れて程度が酷くなる場合があります。この場合、ガラスを取り出すにはメタル製のこじ開けるツールが必要となります。

    • 目を保護するために保護メガネをかけて作業をしてください。また液晶ディスプレイスクリーンにダメージが入らないよう注意してください。

    In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

    - I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

    - Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

    - Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

    - Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

    - Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

    - Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

    - If needed: repeat in other direction.

    - If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

    Good luck, you brave person!

    volty - 返信

    This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

    Bill Roughen - 返信

    • iPadの横、ホームボタンアセンブリの左側に温めたiOpenerを配置します。

    • ガラスの下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくするために、iOpenerを約5分間そのままにして置きます。

    I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

    jaromhyde - 返信

    • 温めた側の真ん中に吸盤ップを取り付けます。

      • カップがしっかりと密封された状態でスクリーン上で完全に平らな状態で装着されているか確認してください。

    • iPadを片手で持ちながら、吸盤カップを背面ケースから正面パネルガラスを引き離すように引っ張り上げます。

    • 開口ピックが差し込める隙間ができるまで吸盤カップを引き上げてください。それ以上引っ張ると、ガラスにひびが入ってしまうリスクがあります。

    This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

    robloomis - 返信

    just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

    Ethan Chow -

    for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

    George - 返信

    • 吸盤カップをガラスに付けたまま固定しながら、ガラスとiPad本体の間に生じた隙間に開封ピックを差し込みます。

      • ディスプレイ側の黒色の淵以上深く開口ピックを差し込まないでください。ピックを奥まで入れてしまうと液晶ディスプレイにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    • 吸盤カップのプラスチックノブを押し上げて吸盤力を弱め、吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリから取り外します。


    • iOpenerを再度温めて同じ場所に配置します。

      • 修理作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。iOpenerを温める際は、前回から少なくとも2分間あけてください。

    • そのまま2−3分間置いたままにしてから、再度iPadの左側にiOpenerを配置します。


    • 2番目の開口ピックを最初のピックの隣に差し込み、iPadの端に沿ってピックを使いながら接着剤を剥がし、下方にスライドさせます。

    • 以下の手順全てに渡って、ガラスの下でピックをスライドさせる際にかなりの抵抗力を感じたら、作業を止めて、該当箇所を再度温めてください。力ずくでピックをスライドさせるとガラスにひびが入ってしまいます。


    • 開口ピックをディスプレイの横に差し込み、接着剤を剥がしながら下向きに動かします。

    • 開口ピックが接着剤に詰まってしまったら、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がし、ピックを”ひねって”動かします。


    • iPadの上部端に向かって最初に差し込んだピックをスライドさせます。

    • 開口ピックの先端がフロントガラス越しに見えても驚かないでください。ピックを少し外側に引いてください。大体の場合は問題ありませんが、液晶ディスプレイ側の正面側に接着剤がついてしまうと取り除くのに時間がかかるためご注意ください。


    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの上部端、正面カメラ上に配置します。

      • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。少なくとも再度温めるまでに2分間、間隔をあけてください。

    • 曲がるタイプのiOpenerをお持ちの場合は、上部左端の角と上部端を同時に温めることができます。


    • iPadの上部左端まで開口ピックをスライドして接着剤を剥がします。

    Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

    Padraic Hoselton - 返信

    • 開口ピックをiPadの上部端に沿ってスライドさせ、カメラまで到達したら止めます。

    • 3番目の画像はiPadの内部のどこに正面カメラがあるか示したものです。

      • 正面カメラの上に開口ピックをスライドさせないでください。レンズの上に接着剤が付いてしまうとカメラを傷つけてしまいます。次の手順では正面カメラを傷つけないように作業を続ける詳細があります。


    • 開口ピックを少し引いて、丁寧に正面カメラの上部に沿って先端部分をスライドします。


    • iPadの開口ピックを正面カメラを少し通過した地点で挟んだまま留めます。

    • 2番目のピックを取り出してカメラの左側に差し込みます。そこから接着剤を完全に剥がしながら左側の角に向かってスライドします。

    • 接着剤が冷めて再装着するのを防ぐため、左側の角に差し込んだまま置きます。


    • 前回カメラ付近で置いたままの開口ピックをiPadの奥深くへ差し込み、カメラから右側端に向かってスライドします。


    • 3番目のピックをiPadの角に差し込んだままの状態にして正面パネルの接着剤が再装着しないようにします。

    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの縦長サイドーボリュームとロックボタン側に載せます。


    • 上部右側にピックを差し込み、上部端のガラス周辺を接着剤から完全に剥がすまで十分にスライドさせます。

    • このピックをそのままの位置に置いたまま、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぎます。それからまた新しいピックを取って次の手順に進みましょう。


    • 新しい開口ピックを差し込み、iPadの右側端から中央までスライドします。ピックを進めながら接着剤を剥がします。


    • それからiPadの右側端の下まで接着剤を剥がしながらスライドさせます。


    • iOpenerを再度温めて、開口ピックを画像にある位置に載せます。

      • iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。前回温めてから少なくとも2分間隔をあけてください。

    • 再度温めたiOpenerをiPadのホームボタン側端の上に載せます。ガラスの下に付けられた接着剤が柔らかくなるまで2~3分間そのままにします。


  3. Fixmasのスピリットを広めましょう
    • 左側の下にピックを差し込み、スライドさせながら左側下の角の接着剤を完全に剥ぎ取ります。

    • 角にピックを残します。これ以上iPadから動かしたり、こじ開けたりしないでください。

    • 下部ベゼルの底には接触を避けたいパーツが幾つかあります。3番目の画像で何があるのか見てみましょう。

      • アンテナ

      • ホームボタンの穴

      • デジタイザーケーブル

    • 次の手順ではこれらのコンポーネントにダメージを与えないで作業をする方法が書かれています。熱で温めて、記された箇所のみこじ開けてください。


    • 前回の手順のピックをそのままの位置にのこします。接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためです。

    • 新しいピックを取り出して、左側のアンテナの上を丁寧にスライスしながら移動させ、ホームボタンの手前で止めます。

      • 外側の端からiPadの中心に向かってピックをスライドさせてください。中心から外側に向かって移動させないでください。この方向に動かすとアンテナにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

      • 再度ピックで下部端をスライドさせたい場合は同じく外側から中央部分に向かってスライドさせます。

    • 次の手順に移る前にピックをホームボタン手前で止めます。


    • 前の手順で使用したピックの隣に新しいピックの先端のみを差し込んで、ホームボタンの下をスライドさせます。

    • ホームボタンの右側から1インチほどスライドさせたら、デジタイザーケーブルを切断しないよう、その位置で止めます。

    • ピックを少し深くまで差し込み、ホームボタンまで丁寧にスライドしながら戻します。

    • iPadの外側から中心に向かってピックをスライドしてください。反対側にスライドするとガラスの下にあるアンテナを傷つけてしまう恐れがあります。


    • iOpenerを再度温めて、iPadの上部ベゼルに載せます。


    • この手順では特に注意が必要です。接着剤が温められて柔らかくなっているか確認しましょう。開口ピックで全体の接着剤を剥がしていきます。必要に応じて作業を止めてiOpenerを温めて作業を継続します。

    • ホームボタンの真上にあたるiPad上部では、両側コーナーにピックが挟まれた状態になっています。このピックをガラスを少しずつひねりながら押し上げていき、それぞれ4方の角の接着剤を完全に剥がします。

    • 接着剤の抵抗がまだ強い場合は、ひねるのをやめて、ピックをそのままの位置に残し、iOpenerを再度温めて問題のある箇所にあててください。


    • iPad下部の両端から接着剤をゆっくりと丁寧に剥がして持ち上げます。


    • 全ての接着剤がはがれたら、フロントガラスを本のページをめくるように開きます。


    • 正面カメラのケーシングはフロントパネルに装着されています。カメラのケーシングを剥がして、カメラを保護するためにこれを元の位置に戻します。

    • カメラのケーシングを接着剤から剥がすため、カメラのケーシングの端を揺らしてフロントパネルから取り出します。

    • 背面ケースの中に正面カメラのケーシングを戻します。


    • 液晶ディスプレイを背面ケースに留めている上部と下部右側のネジを覆っているフォーム製テープがあります。

    • ピンセットを使って、上部右側の液晶ディスプレイに留められたネジを覆っている長方形フォーム製テープを取り外します。

    • 下部右側の液晶ディスプレイに留められた長方形のテープを外します。


    • 液晶ディスプレイ上部左側のネジは正面パネルからの接着テープによって覆われていることがあります。

    • テープが確認できたら、スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってテープを取り除き、下にある液晶ディスプレイのネジを現します。


    • 背面ケースに留められた液晶ディスプレイから3.9 mm #000プラスネジを4本外します。

    In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.


    Mitja Jankovic - 返信

    Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

    Walter Galan -

    The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

    sandro - 返信

    On mine the top right screw is longer

    oliver - 返信

    top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

    sagert - 返信

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイフレームと右側のスピーカーを接続させているテープの小さなパーツを剥いで外します。

    I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

    K8L - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームに留められたフォーム製の長細く薄いテープは液晶ディスプレイとその下に埋められたパネルを接続させているテープの上に貼られています。手順を進めるには、このテープの下に隠れているパーツを確認するため、フォーム製のテープの一部分を剥ぎ取る必要があります。

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイ周辺のフォーム型テープの上部をつまみます。

      • ピンセットで液晶ディスプレイに接触しないようにご注意ください。ディスプレイ全体にダメージを与えてしまう可能性があります。

    • ピンセットを使って、液晶ディスプレイ上部に出ているフォーム製テープを取り出します。


    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームと液晶ディスプレイ上部に留められたテープの隙間にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイのフレームとテープの間のスペースにスパッジャーを差し込んでスライドをさせ、テープを液晶ディスプレイフレームから剥がしていきます。

    I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

    Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

    Kenneth Snyder - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイは左右両側の端と上部に沿ったメタル製の液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートに接着剤で留められています。この接着剤を安全に取り外すには、左右の端に開封ピック(ギターピック)を差し込んで数ミリ単位で少しずつ押し上げる作業を数回繰り返すことです。

    • ピックを液晶ディスプレイと背面ケースの間の隙間、液晶ディスプレイの左側上部に差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイと背面ケースの間の隙間が十分広がるように、ピックをiPadの裏側に向かって引き上げるように曲げていきます。

    I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

    bababooey - 返信

    The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

    Brandon Lukasik - 返信

    This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

    Dan Harris - 返信

    Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

    brauliox - 返信

    I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

    northstar - 返信

    I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

    northstar - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイの左側下にピックを3箇所差し込み、各場所でピックを折り曲がるように固定し、背面ケースの右側端に向かって液晶ディスプレイをスライドします。


    • 液晶ディスプレイの右側サイドに作業を移します。液晶ディスプレイの裏側から左側サイドに沿ってギターピックでこじ開けます。

    • この作業と前回の作業を数回繰り返します。液晶ディスプレイが左右に簡単に動くようになったら作業を止めます。


    • 次の手順ではスパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイとメタル製バッキングプレートの間に差し込みます。スライドさせながら、液晶ディスプレイとその下に留められた接着剤を完全に剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端を液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製固定プレートの間に差し込みます。

      • スパッジャーが液晶ディスプレイフレームと固定プレートの間に挟まれているか確認してください。プレートの下に差し込まないでください。プレート上をこじ開けるとダメージを与えてしまいます。なぜなら、液晶ディスプレイ下の背面ケースに対してネジが留められているからです。


    • デバイスの上部右からスパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製バッキングプレートの間に差し込み、スライドさせながら接着剤を剥がします。

      • このゴールは接着剤を剥がすためで、液晶ディスプレイをこじ開けるためではありません。液晶ディスプレイを傷つけないように、スパッジャーの先端をできるだけ低く持ってください。

    • スパッジャーを液晶ディスプレイの角に差し込んでしまうと曲がってしまいます。前回の作業と同様に、まず開封(ギター)ピックを差し込んで接着剤を緩めていきます。

    These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

    Padraic Hoselton - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイの上部に沿って前回の手順を繰り返します。

    • 液晶ディスプレイフレームとメタル製固定プレートの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込み、丁寧に接着剤を剥がしながら、デバイスの上部に差し込み、反対側まで押し込みます。


    • 液晶ディスプレイの左側も同じように作業を繰り返します。液晶ディスプレイとシールドプレートの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を挟み、できるだけ奥まで押し込みます。

    • この時点で、液晶ディスプレイは付けられた接着剤から緩めていなければなりません。そうでない場合は、液晶ディスプレイを完全に取り出すために、右側横か上部にスパッジャーを再度差し込みます。


    • 液晶ディスプレイを背面ケースから数インチ押し上げます。ディスプレイから接着剤が剥がれていることを確認します。


    • 2本の幅広のテープが、液晶ディスプレイとスピーカーを接続しています。

    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で持ちながら、スパッジャーの平面側先端をこのテープと左側スピーカーの間の隙間に差し込みます。

    • スピーカーからテープを剥がすため、スパッジャーを外側に回転させながら、丁寧に液晶ディスプレイをスピーカーから引き離します。

    I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

    northstar - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を右側スピーカーと液晶ディスプレイのテープの間に差し込みます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイをスピーカーから引き離しながら、スパッジャーを外側に回して、テープとスピーカーの隙間を広くします。


    • 液晶ディスプレイをひっくり返して、フロントパネルのガラスの上に載せます。

    • 液晶ディスプレイをiPadから完全に外さないでください。まだデーターケーブルが接続されています。


    • iPadの背面ケースに留められた液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートより次のネジを外します。

      • 2.6 mm #00プラスネジー2本

      • 1.7 mm #00プラスネジー13本

      • 1.7 mm #00プラスネジー1本(デバイスの種類によって有無があります)

    At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

    sandro - 返信

    On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

    volty - 返信

    On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

    gfriedman99 - 返信

    • iPadの下側端から液晶ディスプレイのシールドプレートのセンター下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを背面ケース側のプレートを外すように差し込んだ後押し上げます。


    • iPadから液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートを取り出します。


    • ロジックボードにコネクターシールドを留めている 1.3 mm #00プラスネジを3本外します。

    • これらの3本のネジを他のネジと混在しないようにご注意ください。特にiPadの背面ケースに液晶ディスプレイシールドプレートを留めているネジは重要です。これらのネジは若干長く、ネジがネジ穴を貫通してしまい、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことになります。

    Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

    jessabethany - 返信

    Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

    Walter Galan -

    Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

    sandro - 返信

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、iPadからコネクターシールドを掴んで外します。


    • プラスチック製開封用ツールを使って、ロジックボードのソケットからバッテリーコネクターを丁寧に引き上げます。

    • バッテリーコネクターのみに接触するよう作業は慎重に行ってください。ソケット自体には触らないでください。ロジックボードのソケットを引き上げてしまうと、コネクター全体にダメージを与えてしまいます。

    Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

    Mattis - 返信

    I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

    Grillwrecka -

    Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

    Andrew Kivell -

    There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

    jessabethany -

    After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

    While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

    Michael Vovaris - 返信

    Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

    WolfyHD - 返信

    I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

    Rory Filer - 返信

    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボードのソケットから液晶ディスプレイコネクターを外します。

    • コネクター隣の大型 ICに接触しないでください。壊れてしまう可能性があります。画像に示しているように、丁寧にコネクターの横から外します。

    Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

    Michael Vovaris - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイは、背面ケースの内部から液晶ディスプレイフレームの正面側下部に接続する2本の太い接着テープにより、iPadとまだ繋がっています。

    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で押さえながら、スパッジャーの平面側先端を液晶ディスプレイとiPadの右側のテープの間に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを外側に向けてスライドします。液晶ディスプレイからテープを剥がすため、少し持ち上げながら動かしてください。

    • 残り部分の隙間を広げて、液晶ディスプレイからテープを剥がすため、スパッジャーをひねりながら動かすと効果的です。

    Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

    Nick Hughes - 返信

    When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

    Muhammed Kilic - 返信

    When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

    Muhammed Kilic - 返信

    Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

    Rory Filer - 返信

    • 液晶ディスプレイを片手で押さえたまま、iPadの左側にスパッジャーを動かし、2番目のテープを剥がすために前回と同じ手順を繰り返してください。

    • 液晶ディスプレイフレームとテープの間にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込み、液晶ディスプレイをゆっくりと持ち上げながら外側に向かってスライドします。


    • iPad Miniから液晶ディスプレイを持ち上げて取り出します。


    • プラスチックの開封ツールを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからデジタイザーコネクターを丁寧に外してください。

    • コネクターのみ引き上げるように十分注意しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ソケットとコネクターはとても壊れやすいので、どちらかにダメージを与えてしまうとデジタイザーが機能しなくなります。


    • 背面ケースからデジタイザーケーブルボードを丁寧に引き上げます。

    Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

    Simon - 返信

    • iPadから正面パネルを持ち上げて、取り出します。

    == After step 55 ==

    Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

    Good Luck!!!!

    Mike - 返信

    If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

    Mike -

    might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

    gfriedman99 - 返信

    If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

    Jennifer Fordyce - 返信

    Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

    northstar -

    • 新しいフロントパネルアセンブリに付け替える場合、次の準備が必要です。

      • 正面パネルアセンブリの周囲の接着剤をカバーしているプラスチックストリップを剥がしてください。

      • デジタイザーケーブルから小さい接着剤シールを取ります。

    • 全ての銅パーツが新しい交換スクリーン上で覆われていることを確認してください。もし覆われていない場合は、スクリーンがばらばらに動いてしまいます。

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - 返信

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - 返信

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - 返信

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - 返信

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - 返信

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - 返信

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - 返信

    • デジタイザーケーブルを後ろ向きに折り曲げて、接着剤が固定するようにしっかりと押します。

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - 返信

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - 返信

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - 返信

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - 返信

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - 返信

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - 返信

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - 返信

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - 返信

    • 新しいフロントパネルを挿入する前に、古いフロントパネル上にあるスマートカバーマグネットを新しいフロントパネルに移してください。

    • プラスチック開封ツールをフロントパネルアセンブリ上部の左側端付近にあるマグネット両側にあてます。

    • 丁寧に右側のプラスチック開封ツールをマグネットの下のエッジにあてます。

    • しっかりと右側のプラスチック開封ツールを動かないように固定します。

    • 左側のプラスチック開封ツールをマグネットの下に差し込み、同時に押し上げながら右側のプラスチック製開封ツール側に向かって押します。

    • スマートカバーマグネットは強力な接着剤で固定されているため、かなりの力が必要です。

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - 返信

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - 返信

    • 必要であればピンセットを使って、フロントパネルアセンブリの下部左側端付近にあるスマートカバーマグネットを覆うテープを剥がします。


    • フロントパネルアセンブリの下部左側端付近のスマートカバーマグネットを外すため、前の手順の方法に従ってください。


    • この手順ではスマートカバーマグネットを新しいパネルアセンブリに移します。

    • ピンセットの先端を使って、丁寧に上部左側のスマートカバーマグネットを定位置に配置します。

    • スマートカバーマグネットの下部左側の部分でも同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • 必要に応じてプラスチック製開封ツールの先端を使って、左側スマートカバーマグネット下部に貼るテープがまっすぐ平らにようにしてください。

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - 返信

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - 返信

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - 返信

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - 返信

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - 返信

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - 返信

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - 返信


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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Replacement comes with glass only, Do I have to use some glue to stick it onto LCD? I doubt yellow stickers will do the job. Thank you

Dew - 返信

I broke my LCD while doing this repair - be extremely careful when prying off broken digitizer, I got the pick a little too far in and lifted, putting pressure on the LCD. I didnt know the LCD was broken until powering on the device. Total bummer. Replacing LCD now. The stickers are garbage. Use an adhesive instead, dont even waste your time with the stickers.

crbucher - 返信

i love this website but with the ipad mini, it would really be beneficial to have a reassembly guide because of the level of difficulty. There is a lot left up to chance. LIke the yellow tape that comes around the ribbon cable. Do we remove it or not? Some say do...the guide doesnt mention it at all because it just covers removal, not reassembly. Plus there are a few metal contacts that come covered that are not covered in the replacement digitizer.

gocaps25 - 返信

I would add extra adhesive on the bottom and especially the right corner of any iPad mini replacement. Even with the digitizer cable folded properly there has still been a tiny gap between front panel and body. A little extra adhesive makes that go away.

gocaps25 - 返信

A reverse order would be great as noted above. Otherwise, i have it together and powered on and it works. I have books sitting on i pad hoping adhesive will adhere. I may use the iOpener on it to warm up adhesive and let it cool again. Thank you..

MickeyBlueEyes - 返信

I tried to replace the glass on my wife's IPAD but it was already very shattered. At one point when I attempted to suction cup an edge, the glass really shattered and I guess shattered the LCD panel as well when I didn't notice it. The glass panel went back on very well. But because the LCD panel was now shattered, the unit looked great but wasn't working. Great experience, but if the glass is shattered as my was, it's unlikely you will be able to repair the unit.

rusty - 返信

It must have been pretty bad. Mine was shattered in several places around the edge and I was able to repair it. It was not as simple as just following the instructions - it took me more than 2 hours just to get the glass off - the whole repair is supposed to be a 2 hour job, LOL

Rory Filer -

Just starting an ipad mini screen replacement and I am unsure what to do on step 45 with the speaker tape. That step isn't too helpful and looking at the ipad it isn't obvious. Can anyone make it clearer for me please as I do not want to damage anything. Thanks.

Jim Russell - 返信

Hi Jim. I don't have the original unit on me, but if you zoom into the photos, you can see a couple pieces of foam adhesive between the speakers and the LCD. I made a gif that may highlight the procedure a little better: http://imgur.com/a/AQ5Dc.

Evan Noronha -

On the question of adhesives - the one place I worried about was the digitizer circuit board. The old adhesive was not strong enough to hold it in place. I put a small drop of contact cement on the bottom side of the board and that seemed to hold it. For all other areas except the glass (i.e. mostly tape) saved everything I peeled off and put it back during the reassembly. For the glass, which came with an adhesive strip around its edge, I used the heating pad and some small plastic clamps to hold it in place while it cooled. Seemed to do the trick.

Overall these instructions are very good and they work fine provided you take your time and read them all once or twice _before_ starting to do the job.

Rory Filer - 返信

Finish :-) Thanks to an good guide. Took 52 minutes! iPad looks New!

Ingar Jarle - 返信



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