Use this guide to fix your iPad Mini 2 screen. This guide will show you how to replace the front panel, including digitizer, home button, and display glass on your iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Reply

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    Add Comment

    • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - Reply

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - Reply

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

      • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - Reply

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - Reply

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

      • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - Reply

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

    Add Comment

    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

    Add Comment

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

      • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

    Add Comment

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    • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

    Add Comment

    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - Reply

    • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

      • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - Reply

    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

      • Antennas

      • Home button cavity

      • Digitizer cable

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

      • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

      • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

    • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

    • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

    • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - Reply

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

    Add Comment

    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

    Add Comment

    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

    Add Comment

    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - Reply

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

    • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

    • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

      • Three 3.3 mm screws

      • One 4.5 mm screw

    • If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?!

    paramedic064 - Reply

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Lionheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - Reply

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - Reply

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - Reply

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - Reply

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - Reply

    • The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

    • Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - Reply

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

    • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

    • Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

    • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - Reply

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Reply

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - Reply

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - Reply

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - Reply

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - Reply

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - Reply

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

      • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

    • Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - Reply

    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

      • One 2.7 mm screw

      • Two 1.4 mm screws

    Why remove the LDC if the microphones are on the other side?

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    • Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

    Add Comment

    • Use the point of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    During reassembly, be sure to well press the battery connector in place. Otherwise, you will ave to re open... as I had to do !

    ZARAGOZA - Reply

    Any advice RE reassembly and the adhesive? Just heat and it re-adheres?

    drewmc - Reply

    • Use flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

    Add Comment

    • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad.

    Please note that there are 2 strips of adhesive on the left and the right side of the display. Use a string or fishing wire to loosen the adhesive. I cracked my LCD and had to order a new one because this step was missing.

    jdmasfuuck - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.

      • Be careful as you lift the connector from the socket—the pins in the socket are extremely fragile and can easily break!

    During reassembly at this point, be very careful to line up both sides of the connector. I came very close to destroying the digitizer cable connectors because I wasn't paying attention.

    Jeff G - Reply

    I learned the hard way that we should be lifting from the short side of the connector, not the long side as shown here. The gold pins inside the FPC socket are very fragile and more likely to break when lifted as shown in this picture.

    Frank Buccella - Reply

    Yes, I just learned that lesson as well. IMO a bit too ridiculously fragile.

    Daniel - Reply

    • Slide the spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.

    • Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

    Add Comment

    • If you're installing a new front panel assembly, it may need the following preparation:

      • Peel the plastic strips covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.

      • Remove the small piece of adhesive backing from the digitizer cable.

    • Make sure all copper is covered on the new replacement screen as once fitted without this the screen will move randomly.

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - Reply

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - Reply

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - Reply

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - Reply

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - Reply

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - Reply

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - Reply

    • Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - Reply

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - Reply

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - Reply

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - Reply

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - Reply

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - Reply not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - Reply

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - Reply

    • Before you install your new front panel, you'll need to transfer the smart cover magnets on your OLD front panel to your new front panel.

    • Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.

    • Carefully wedge the edge of the right plastic opening tool underneath the magnet.

    • Steadily hold the right plastic opening tool in place.

    • Wedge the left plastic opening tool underneath the magnet and simultaneously pry and push it towards the right plastic opening tool.

    • This will require some force as the smart cover magnet is held in place with strong adhesive.

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - Reply

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - Reply

    • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to partially peel back the piece of tape covering the smart cover magnet near the lower left corner of the front panel assembly.

    Add Comment

    • Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.

    Add Comment

    • In this step you will be transferring the smart cover magnets to the NEW front panel assembly.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place.

    • Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.

    • If necessary, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flatten the piece of tape adhered to the bottom left smart cover magnet.

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - Reply

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - Reply

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - Reply

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - Reply

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - Reply

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - Reply

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - Reply

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - Reply

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

170 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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Step 16 through step 24

I made a mess:

- I slid the picks all around the glass breaking the glass, the antenna and digit cables.

What do I need to fix it ? I have already ordered by you a front glass and a a logic board

(LCD I have it already). What do I need more ?

Pls. Help

Sergio Ungaro

su40 - Reply

Hey, I have a big problem.

I did all this steps and everything was fine so i put it together. Now I have a ghost-touch if i press the margin at the right edge. I didn't remove the yellow stripe and i thing the cable is not between the frame and the metal.


David - Reply

Had the same issue. Just use Kapton tape and cover the bottom part of the ipad where the Home button is. What’s causing the issue is grounding thus the ghost touch. Search or “Ipad mini ghost touch kapton” on YouTube. Hope this helps.

Yousef Ghalib -


you will crack it with the slightest bend. This is crucial as you try to free it from the STRONG adhesive tape at the bottom speakers. This tutorial has no mention of how careful you have to be with the LCD, or how much stronger the adhesion is in this area, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD from iFixit, riiiiight?

James Billy - Reply

Good info! Thanx

thomas -


You WILL shatter the lcd with the slightest bend. This is critical when you are attempting to free it from the speaker adhesive tape (steps 34-36). The fragility of the lcd screen and the high adhesive strength at the bottom are NOT MENTIONED at all in this how-to, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD screen from iFixit, riiiiiiiiiigt?

James Billy - Reply

Need input please. install of new glass went off without a hitch, straight forward, however with one little problem. The home button on the new glass does not work. everything else works like it should.... What now?

nkorodimas - Reply

Same problem as nkorodimas. Everything seems to work fine but the home button. Trying to perform a restore results in an update error and then tries to carry out the restore again. Any advice?

Simon Hillman - Reply

Most likely the front panel connector was not fully inserted or there is debris in the front panel connector. Worst case, the ribbon cable responsible for connecting the home button was damaged during reassembly.

Jeff G -

It would be good to mention the smart cover magnets earlier in the procedure -- especially for those people that are replacing a very smashed front panel. I had to go hunting through a pile of broken glass and adhesive to find the magnets. It would have been good to be aware that they are attached to the front panel and to watch out for them.

Jeff G - Reply

You should always read the complete procedure BEFORE beginning the procedure. That way, you usually eliminate any surprises.

Tomme Foster -

lcd is bonded to body with adhesive and is extremely fragile, this is not mentioned, also when placing the new digitizer you can not just simply folllow the guide in the reverse order because DIGITIZER CABLE GETS STUCK BETWEEN THE GLASS AND BODY. this causes glass lifting up and digitizer cable to get damaged. reckless guide, 2/10

omergezer - Reply

I agree. I had to carefully manipulate the cable with a flat tool to get it to stay away from the frame. Luckily I didn’t break the cable before I noticed it’s position. I had several fitment problems, so I started over with a new adhesive kit. My problems with fitment were because the frame was slightly bent & a dent in the side needed to be filed down to allow the glass to fit properly. The adhesive kit did not come with any instructions, but luckily I was able to figure out in which order to peel the plastic covers. The strips did not come packaged as in the picture & had sticky clear plastic sheets on both sides & the actual adhesive backing was clear, making it difficult to know which to peel off first.

kevs -

Went smoothly for the most part. LCD ended up cracked as well. Was not a result of disassembly. Thanks for the guide. It was detailed and certainly helped with the disassembly.

JNoles - Reply

I have reused the digitizer after replacing the LCD. I don't have any response from about a quarter of the screen each side (left and right). I did try covering the copper but didn't make much difference.

Any ideas??

Stephen - Reply

Sounds like either the touch IC on the screen has been moved or the digi has been broken in some place. I'd reccomend a new digi that should solve the touch issues, if it has the IC pre soldered makes the job a lot easier.

maddog256 -

Quick question! I got a small piece of glass on the LCD screen, and it left a white mark. Now I'm trying to figure out if that wrecked the LCD screen, or if that isn't going to matter. Because the last thing I want to do is put it all back together and see that the LCD screen is messed up. Any advice?

cpecrivaine - Reply

More than likely just gonna to leave a mark on the LCD it wont effect usage you will see it there in use though, 9 times out of 10 it'll all function fine with no issues

maddog256 -

First I broke the LCD as well (my bad) :(

when all was finished, you apparently need to follow a (only 1 correct) sequence to reassemble the ribbons, so i blew up an (for me) not repareable fuse on the mother board ... so had to throw all away :(

however was my first mishap after fixing quit a lot of diffrent versions of iphones, so it was learners money spent ...

erwinvrieze - Reply

Performed the repair and was extremely careful! The ipad powers up and the home button works, but the screen is not responding to touch?

Gerald Shea - Reply

Finished the repair yesterday and have been using the iPad for last 24 hours and everything seems to be working great. Like a couple of others have mentioned, be sure to read all the instructions AND comments before starting. For example, knowing ahead of time that you need to remove the magnets from the touch panel glass to reuse is very important. My front panel was completely shattered and came off in pieces, so I probably would have missed that if I had not read the instructions first.

For a shattered screen like mine, the suction cup doesn't work. I used Duck Tape to hold the screen somewhat together and folded tabs into the Duck Tape so I had something to hang on to. Take your time and be patient on Steps 32 to 36 so you don't damage the LCD. I read the instructions and comments and took my time loosening the adhesive.

At the end, I left the covering on the adhesive on the touch panel and powered it up to be sure it worked before I exposed the adhesive and put it together.

cbrouwer - Reply

Thanks for the tip

Pa Du -

this is a very comprehensive guide. all i can say is thanks so much! i've been fearing this repair but feel much better now.

Benedict Kim - Reply

Great guide. Very comprehensive. Make sure the home button works properly on your replacement part and is aligned correctly before you start . Beware the white / black border of the digitiser scratches very easily.

Ian Cockett - Reply

i replaced the screen and digitizer but the the touch screen is unresponsive. i know pluged the digitizer in.

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) - Reply

I held the power button and the home button and the apple icon popped up and i think it just restarted and now it works

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) -

My digitizer glass is completely shattered, so it came off in many many pieces. I can’t find even one smart magnet. We don’t use a magnetic cover for the ipad, so can I continue without the smart magnets?


Just repaired my iPad Mini 2, the Guide is very thorough. Only problem is that now my “Power” button works only to make the iPad Start or Shutdown (no “wake” function more). The home button does not work, the accelerometers seems not to work anymore as the Screen Rotation does not work anymore. Plus I get some random “sleep” of the iPad during operation. I guess I’ll need to open it all over again :S

Athos Bernardes - Reply

What made this repair difficult for me was that my screen was significantly cracked and there is no easy way to get it out. It broke a lot more and made a huge mess. I ended up having glass at the top and bottom that I had to basically use the metal spudger to completely remove it.

I recommend covering the LCD with a large cloth while you work to remove all the broken bits of screen. This will help avoid getting finger prints on it or tiny pieces of glass on it. If you do get tiny glass particles on he LCD I recommend using compressed air to remove the glass. If you try to wipe it off it will scratch the LCD.

The other hard part of this repair was replacing the magnets for the sleep functionality to work properly. I did not buy my replacement screen from iFixit which may have been a mistake. I have heard that some of the 3rd party screens don’t work well on replacing the magnets. One of my magnets also broke. I wish that the replacement screens game with the magnets pre-installed in the correct places.

Derrick F - Reply

Thx for the instructions. Fits like a glove and Works ;)



Timo Wolf - Reply

When reassembling and replacing the LCD shield plate, the tiny screws will want to jump onto the magnets on the left side. I used the combination of tweezers and the philips driver to push the screws into the holes.

scotttroyer - Reply

Ok I powered it up the first time and the screen lit up and apple stuff came up but the next time I powered it up nothing on the screen. When I connect the charger u can hear the noise to start changing but nothing on screen??? What did I do wrong?

KC Gaeth - Reply

Ok so the instructions worked great but the home button no longer works?!! Help!

Ana Stempel - Reply

I was not that careful with getting the lcd out, so I damaged it and had to buy a new one. Also, the digitizer I bought from ebay did not have the circuit for the wake sensor, so sleep/wake with cover was not working (note that the magnets are only for holding the cover in place). Did not mind that so much, but the replacement I bought was so bad that the button broke within two months, so I replaced digitizer again, this time with a quality one. Now it works fine, except for the lcd flickering occasionally, which gets fixed by putting the ipad face down on a table and knocking it on the edges with my hand. Don’t know what causes that, but I am reluctant to open it again. With the extra parts I ordered the cost was almost equal to a professional replacement, which may (or may not) have had better end result. But learned some things along too ;)

Stavros Vachtsevanos - Reply

I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini ghost touch after installing a new digitizer. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Great guide for repair, my only hiccup was the darn home button working, had to take the tape covering the contacts on the old screen off and move them to the new one.

Overall, it was a great experience!

Chuck Kintz - Reply

On my repair, the black tape covering the home button peeled off when I removed the tape covering the adhesive strip on the front glass. I have not had an issue with the operation tho. Also, the instructions don’t make any mention of removing the old adhesive around the edge of the case. I did it, as I assumed that the adhesive on the glass plus the old adhesive would have caused a fit problem. My digitizer connector did not have foam on its back & the old foam was not removable. I hope that will not be an issue.


kevin stephen - Reply

I certainly appreciate the effort that went into providing these instructions, but unfortunately the reassembly is totally ignored. It is NOT just a matter of reversing the disassembly instructions! As evidenced in some of the above comments, reassembly issues have been the cause of quite a few problems.

kevin stephen - Reply

Excellent! Great for those without broken screens. Even with a broken screen, it still suffices for a break-down of all the important steps and things to watch out for. For my second and more successful repair on an iPad Mini 2, I would highly recommend the iOpener to help. FOLLOW the directions, or expect other results.

David M - Reply

What about the Home button!?!?!?

mamashannon4u - Reply

Thanks for a great repair guide!! I’ve used your guide twice with sucess!

jamieoyakawa - Reply

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