はじめに
Use this guide to replace the flex cable that contains the power switch, microphone, and ambient light sensor in an iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
yamayhuang - 返信
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated
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Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
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Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.
Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.
So true, the adhesive is really strong.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Home Button
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Front Facing Camera
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Main Camera
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you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening
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Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
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Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
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Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
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If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
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I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)
“a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm
A quick google search will give you the answer
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Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.
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Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.
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Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.
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Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.
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Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.
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Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.
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Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.
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Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.
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Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.
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Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.
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Repeat for the left-hand pick.
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Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
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Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.
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Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.
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Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.
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Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.
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Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.
Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.
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Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.
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Remove the bracket.
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Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.
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Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the upper component cable bracket to the tablet.
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Two 1.6 mm
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Two 1.3 mm
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Slide the upper component cable bracket out from under the protective flaps and remove it from the iPad.
Reinstalling the upper component bracket was tricky for me. It is difficult to get the bracket in proper orientation to replace screws and under the flaps at the same time.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the iSight camera from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the iSight camera.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the plastic microphone bracket in place.
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Remove the microphone bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the power button/microphone ribbon cable connector from its socket.
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Place a heated iOpener on the top left corner of the back of the iPad.
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Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive securing the microphone ribbon cable to the rear case.
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Use an opening pick to pry up the microphone ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the power button assembly to the rear case.
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Remove the power button assembly.
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Peel the ribbon cable with the microphone up from the plastic bracket.
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Flip the assembly over and peel up the black rubber piece covering the portion of the ribbon cable with the ambient light sensor.
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Pry up the ribbon cable with the ambient light sensor from the plastic bracket.
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Remove the ribbon cable.
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Use a spudger to press the power button into the iPad and remove it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
4 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - 返信
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - 返信
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - 返信
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
Fletcher Carpenter - 返信
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
putinaspiliponis - 返信
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - 返信
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - 返信
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Sherry Carew - 返信
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Esmond Pitt - 返信
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
Cedric VINCENT - 返信