はじめに
iPad 6の損傷した、または機能しないLCDを交換します。
バッテリーブロッカーを使用してバッテリーを分離するときは、十分に注意してください。 バッテリーの接点は簡単に損傷してしまい、致命的なダメージを引き起こします。 バッテリーを分離せずにガイドを完成させる場合は、バッテリーのショートやデリケートな回路コンポーネントの損傷を防ぐために、必要な場合(ネジを外す場合など)を除いて、メタル製の工具の使用を避けてください。
必要な工具と部品
-
-
鍋を十分な量のお湯で満たして、iOpener を完全に沈めます。
-
お湯を沸かして熱くなったら火を止めます。
-
iOpenerを熱湯の中に約2−3分間沈めます。iOpener全体が完全に浸かっているか確認してください。
-
トングなどを浸かって、温まったiOpenerをお湯から取り出します。
-
タオルでiOpener全体を拭き取ります。
-
iOpenerの準備は整いました。iOpenerを再度温める必要がある場合は、お湯を沸騰させて、火を止めてからiOpenerを2-3分間浸してください。
-
-
-
ディスプレイガラスにひびが入ってしまった場合、割れてしまった部分が広がらないようにガラス表面上にクリアテープを貼るなどして、怪我がないようご注意ください。
-
iPadディスプレイ上にクリアタイプのテープを何重にも貼り、全体を覆います。
-
ここに書かれている手順にできるだけ従ってください。しかしながら、ガラスが一旦割れてしまうと、作業を続けていくにつれてひびが広がってしまう可能性があります。この場合、ガラスを取り出すためにはメタル製工具を使用する必要があります。
-
-
-
青いハンドルを後方に引き、リバースクランプのアームのロックを解除します。
-
青いハンドルをヒンジ側に引くと、オープニングモードが解除されます。
-
吸盤を左端の中央付近に配置し、上下に1つずつ装着します。
-
リバースクランプの下部をしっかりと固定し、上部カップをしっかりと押し下げて吸盤を装着ます。
-
-
-
温めた側の真ん中から少し上辺りに、吸盤カップを取り付けます。
-
しっかりと吸盤がスクリーンに装着されるにはカップがスクリーン上に完全に平らに付いているか確認してください。
-
iPadを片手で押さえながら、背面ケースをフロントパネルのガラスから離すために吸盤カップを上部に向けて引っ張りあげます。
-
iPadのスクリーンの破損がひどい場合は、透明なパッキングテープで表面を覆うと、吸盤がうまく接着します。 または、強力なテープ（ダクトテープなど）を使用して、ハンドルに折りたたんでください。
-
-
-
-
LCDを固定している4.3mm #00プラスネジを4本外します。
Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.
On my iPad 6, there were small rubber tabs covering the two screws on the front camera side. I carefully held them out of place with tweezers while unscrewing the screws.
-
-
-
スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、LCDを指で掴みやすいように、凹みからLCDをこじ開けます。 ネジ穴の周りに接着剤が付けられている場合は、ナイフで切開する必要があります。
-
本のページのようにiPadのLCDを裏返して、カメラの近くで持ち上げ、リアケースのホームボタンの端に向けます。
-
LCDを正面側に向けて、ディスプレイケーブルにアクセスできるようにします。
When you replace the LCD be sure to make sure it is screwed in fully. It is easy not, especially on the cornet where the digitizer cables are. The LCD is very sensitive and if you bend it then it can stop working. I was just pressing the digitized in place at the end of a repair and the screen was covered in white lines.
I have no idea of what the logic board looks like !!!
HenryFMora - 返信
-
-
-
バッテリーコネクタをロジックボードに固定している2.3mm #000プラスネジを1本外します。
-
バッテリーブロッカーをロジックボードのバッテリーコネクターの下に35度の角度でスライドさせます。
-
バッテリーブロッカーをその場所に残したまま、作業を行ってください。
If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….
I bumped this darn thing several times, it was twisted and skewed making me freak out but the iPad still works. I am thinking you should pull it out and put the screw back in right after the LCD is removed. Then use it again just before putting the LCD screen back in. The pick is sticking out there waitng to be be bumped.
Hi Robin,
Unfortunately, there is no easy way to pull the battery connector out of the logic board. If you try to pry this connector off, you will irreparably damage it. The easiest solution is to insert the battery blocker in-between to cut the power.
The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board.
So what is the new method?
Wil Thieme - 返信
This is my question as well. Seems like this phrase contradicts the instructions. Confusing. Any reply?
We are currently working on a better isolation procedure! In the meantime, I’ve updated the warning to hopefully clarify the issue.
Why do you need to “To reduce the risk of a short”? There does not seem to by any risk of a “short” in this process. I can see other reasons for disconnecting the battery. I am an electrical engineer so I would appreciate a professional grade answer to this question.
I’ll give it a shot!
When you remove the screw, it doesn’t disconnect the battery, as the connector uses spring contacts to touch the battery pads.
If you leave the battery connected, it leaves the logic board energized. As there are many exposed traces and SMT components on the logic board, there is a chance that you accidentally bridge a trace with a metal tool, resulting damage. In addition, the display connector contains tiny pins, and the pinout is such that if you pry the connector from an energized logic board, there is a chance that a voltage rail pin may accidentally touch something it shouldn’t, blowing out the backlight circuitry.
My battery was dead when i did the repair. Did not really need to perform this step
Take a waterproof playing card, cut out the shape of the battery blocker and slide that under. Battery blocked and pins not at risk of damage. Got that from a YouTube video made by a microsolder repair tech fixing the damage caused by jamming a blocker in between the contacts.
Thanks for the tip Melody! I’ve updated the instructions to include the playing card method.
I could not for the life of me get the playing card in there, but my iPad was turned off, so I decided to ‘risk’ a short, instead of potentially damaging the battery connectors by jamming the card in there as hard as possible. My repair went fine, no short, however I realized AFTER closing everything up that I forgot to put the battery screw back in. Really hoping this doesn’t become an issue long term, because I don’t want to pry this brand new screen off just to put the battery in.
Let us know! I wasn't able to use the screw again after removing the battery blocker. Now my iPad turns off and on every so many minutes and when it restarts it's 1% and then shows actual charge.
When you come to screw this back together, do not overestimate how little force it takes to strip the thread on this #000 screw. I did, and I now I can't screw this back down and have the problem where the iPad restarts every 3 mins 20 sec after you turn it on due to a poor connection here. I've used card to pack this out so the LCD puts a little clamping force on the terminal once you screw it back in, but it's not really enough so the iPad still suddenly restarts occasionally.
I use a small screwdriver and pry underneath that brown bracket from the top edge by the camera (with the elongated metal cover removed of course) all the way before the battery, then lift up just enough for me to unhinged the battery out of the secure post. I don't know why Apple has to go through ALL THIS just to connect the battery since there is a small screw AND ADHESIVE securing it anyway. Nonetheless the whole job (replacing the lcd screen and battery was a major pain in the neck!
-
-
-
ディスプレイケーブルブラケットから1.4mm #000プラスネジを3本外します。
I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.
I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head
-
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
22 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
12 件のコメント
No comments…. No one is brave enough to attempt this :)
Tal Glazer - 返信
I tried to replace the LCD with the iPad AIR 1 LCD and is NOT compatible. It fits and the connector is the same but shows just like tv static noise.
I have same issue, but with LCD iPad 5, some idea to make it compatible.
I replaced the front screen and now the number 9 on the passcode keypad isn’t working. I don’t get it.
I’m having the same issue! Different numbers, but same issue. Just certain sections of the screen won’t respond to touch.
I did this (screen replacement) on my iPad 6 LTE about a month ago. Was wicked difficult because my the screen was completely shattered and removing all of the shards was, well, a major PITA. It wasn’t all that bad otherwise as long as you TAKE YOUR TIME getting it apart in the first place. The only real issue I had otherwise was getting it back together with new adhesive strips because the screen doesn’t set on top straight down. You have to almost put one side down with the screen at an angle then lay it down but because of the adhesive strips, you can’t lay it down then adjust it. So that was not fun. Otherwise it wasn’t all that bad IF you are like me and savvy with electronics repair. *** also, once back together and fired up, I have some dead spots where there is zero registration of any touch on the screen. No clue as to why, and it’s frustrating because of the cost of these things and the replacement parts. Better than no usable screen I guess.
Please excuse any typos should you encounter any.
Hi Bryan,
If you haven’t yet, I would suggest checking two things. It sounds like either the digitizer cable may be having bad connectivity, or the digitizer may be shorting on something. Check, clean, and re-seat all of your display cable connectors as well as making sure the connectors have no debris. What is this (possibly conductive) gray foam adhesive called and where. Maybe that will remove the dead spots.
This was extremely difficult! But it was a little easier for me as I am an IT professional. Some helpful pro tips: definitely spend time just heating the adhesives over a period of a couple of days. The hardest part of the repair was separating the broken screen from the rest of the ipad. On re-assembly, check to make sure that the home button and touch are functioning properly before putting on new adhesives. This way you can correct any mistakes. Otherwise, you will have to undo the work you just did. Take your time, don’t rush so that you don’t make mistakes or break anything. The guide is very helpful and I was able to repair my ipad 6th generation.
Kevin
Ugh. This has been a PITA. I damaged the connector for lcd screen. bought replacement screen and now won’t work. HELP! Do I need to remove the old heat shield and attach it to the new lcd? What was I thinking?
Ive used 3 brand new LCDs and can’t get any of them to show a picture, when i plug in the old broken one it lights up just fine but is shattered beyond use. im starting to wonder if you can’t just replace the LCD without some sort of trick that only apple knows about
at least you have some dead spots. I just replaced LCD and digitizer. LCD was fine except I threw the LCD cable bracket away because I thought it came with the new one as it was attached to the old one. Needless to say I have no LCD cable bracket. The digitizer does not respond at all though and LCD screen works.
Managed to repair a few of these over the years... my 3 kids al had 6th gen's and 2 had cracked glass (digitizers) that I've done... today I did an LCD swap for an older one at work that had backlight strobing. No issues with the repair. Heat gun for adhesive along with the Anti-Clamp (great tool btw) and a iSesame opener tool... didn't bother with the battery disconnect. Just removed the LCD bracket/cable and installed "new" LCD I purchased from iFixit... though it was clearly used... it did have a plastic film on the screen but was VERY dirty on back and had old adhesive on it. But it worked fine. I did pick up a new digitizer in case I broke the glass removing the old one, but didn't need it. I had some extra adhesive laying around that I used to replace some of the marred adhesive from opening this one up. All-in-all, pretty straightforward ipad repair. And yes, had the glass been shattered, it is a MUCH longer and annoying repair. Been there before. Take your time cleaning it all up first.
