メインコンテンツにスキップ

はじめに

このガイドはお持ちのハードドライブを交換/アップグレードするためのものです。

このガイドにはSSD搭載のiMacハードドライブをアップグレードする手順も書かれています。SSDの温度センサーをどうやって取り付けるか説明していますので、Macのファンは正確なスピードで動作するでしょう。

iMacを作動させる前にコンピューターのプラグを抜き、電力供給装置のコンデンサを放電するために10秒間電源ボタンを長押ししてください。

細心の注意を払ってください電力供給装置の後ろにあるコンデンサのリード線、またはどんなはんだ接合も絶対に触らないでください。

    • ガラスパネルの上部コーナー付近の2箇所に、重量用の吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップを装着するには、まず可動ハンドルがガラスパネル表面と平行になるように吸盤カップを載せます。(2番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤カップをガラスに軽く当てながら、可動ハンドルをもう一方のハンドルと平行になるまで持ち上げます。(3番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤が上手く固着しない場合は、ガラスパネルと吸盤カップの両方を柔らかくリントフリー(メガネ拭きなど)の布を湿らせて軽く拭きます。( 一番効果的な方法は、蒸留水、もしくは蒸留水と白酢を同じ割合で調合したものを布に含ませます。)

    • 吸盤カップを使ってディスプレイガラスを運ばないでください。吸盤カップのいずれか上手く固着されていないと、スクリーンが落下して壊れてしまう可能性があります。

    • 購入時のオリジナルiMac用梱包ボックスは、ガラスパネルを保管するのに最適な場所です。 それ以外は、安定した水平上の表面、机の上にタオルを敷いた上に載せておくと安全です。

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - 返信

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - 返信

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - 返信

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - 返信

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - 返信

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - 返信

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - 返信

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - 返信

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - 返信

  1. ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。 ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。
    • ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。

    • ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。

    • 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。

    • ガラスパネルを安全に置いた後、時間の経過とともに吸引力でガラスが割れてしまう可能性があるので、必ず吸盤カップを外してください。

    • 再装着の際は、ガラスパネル内側とLCDの表面を慎重に拭いてください。デバイス本体の電源を入れると、ほこりや指紋が内部に閉じ込められています。

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - 返信

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - 返信

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - 返信

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - 返信

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - 返信

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - 返信

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. 液晶パネルとアウターケースを固定しているT10 トルクスネジ × 8本を外します
    • 液晶パネルとアウターケースを固定しているT10 トルクスネジ × 8本を外します

    • 油脂が付着すると取れにくいし場合がありますので、液晶面に指が触れないようご注意ください。

    • 必要に応じて、液晶上部中央付近のEMIガスケットを剥がします。

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - 返信

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - 返信

  3. iMacを慎重に平らな面に起きます。 タイトに装着されているため、液晶パネルを持ち上げるには、画像にあるように紙クリップを使って細いフック状の工具を作成してください。 もしくは、iFixit特製デュアルハードドライブキットには、持ち上げるのに最適なアングル付きピンセットが含まれています。
    • iMacを慎重に平らな面に起きます。

    • タイトに装着されているため、液晶パネルを持ち上げるには、画像にあるように紙クリップを使って細いフック状の工具を作成してください。

    • もしくは、iFixit特製デュアルハードドライブキットには、持ち上げるのに最適なアングル付きピンセットが含まれています。

    • 細いフック状の工具で左右どちらか一方の上端角から液晶パネルを引き上げ、フレームから外します。

    • 液晶パネルの一方を持ち上げたら、ケースの外にかけ、もう片方を同様に工具を使って外ケースから持ち上げます。

    • ケーブルにアクセスできるように、液晶パネルを、ゆっくりかつ十分に開きます。

    • 液晶パネル裏面に着いている短いリボンケーブルが2つのパーツに接続されているので、パネルの上部端をあまり高く持ち上げないでください。

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - 返信

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - 返信

  4. 画面の左上の隅の裏側にある垂直同期ケーブルを外しましょう。スパッジャーの先端をうまく利用してコネクタの側面の突起をソケットから慎重にスライドして押し出します。
    • 画面の左上の隅の裏側にある垂直同期ケーブルを外しましょう。スパッジャーの先端をうまく利用してコネクタの側面の突起をソケットから慎重にスライドして押し出します。

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - 返信

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.

    JLTX -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - 返信

    This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.

    simonf -

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - 返信

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - 返信

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - 返信

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - 返信

  5. この作業では、素手を電源ユニットの背面に差し入れます。電源ユニットの背面のボードがむき出しになっていますが、大容量コンデンサに帯電している高電圧の電流が流れますので、絶対に触れないでください。
    • この作業では、素手を電源ユニットの背面に差し入れます。電源ユニットの背面のボードがむき出しになっていますが、大容量コンデンサに帯電している高電圧の電流が流れますので、絶対に触れないでください。

    • 手でコネクタのつまみを押し下げながらディスプレイ下部に向かってずらし、液晶パネルのLEDケーブルを外します。

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - 返信

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

    fabio4 - 返信

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - 返信

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - 返信

  6. コネクタに付いている黒いつまみを画面上部に引っ張り上げることで、液晶パネルケーブルのZIFコネクタを外せます。 コネクタとソケットにダメージを与える可能性があるので、強く引っ張らないでください。
    • コネクタに付いている黒いつまみを画面上部に引っ張り上げることで、液晶パネルケーブルのZIFコネクタを外せます。

    • コネクタとソケットにダメージを与える可能性があるので、強く引っ張らないでください。

    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルを外すには、コネクタの黒いタブをデバイス上部に向けて、続けて引っ張ります。

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - 返信

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - 返信

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - 返信

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - 返信

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - 返信

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - 返信

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - 返信

    So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.

    Thanks!

    Jeff McConnell -

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - 返信

  7. スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルの横にあるディスプレイ電源ケーブルを取り外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルの横にあるディスプレイ電源ケーブルを取り外します。

  8. 液晶パネルを上部端に向けて注意深く引き上げ、液晶パネルをiMac本体から持ち上げて取り出します。
    • 液晶パネルを上部端に向けて注意深く引き上げ、液晶パネルをiMac本体から持ち上げて取り出します。

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - 返信

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

    zackduchene - 返信

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - 返信

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - 返信

  9. ディスプレイの面を柔らかくて平らな表面の場所に置きます
    • ディスプレイの面を柔らかくて平らな表面の場所に置きます

    • ディスプレーパネルを交換する際は、ディスプレイに付属している全ての部品を新しいディスプレイへ移植する必要があります。新旧のディスプレーを比較して、全てのケーブル、センサー、クッションが移植されていることを確認してください。

    • もしそこに、粘着テープ付きハーネスかケーブルがあった場合、直接ケーブルを引っ張らず、必ずテープを先にはがし取ってください。

    • ケーブルがシャーシに接着剤で固定されている場合、iOpenerかドライヤーを用いて熱し、接着剤を軟化させてください。その後にopening pickをケーブルの下に挿入し、ケーブルを緩めてください。デリケートなコネクターがあるため強引に引っ張ることは避けてください。

    • フォームクッションの下にopening pickをスライドして、少しずつディスプレーから分離し、優しく引っ張ります。取り外したこのクッションを再度新しいディスプレーへ接着するために、新しい両面テープを用意する必要があります。

  10. SATA電源ケーブル及びSATAデータケーブルを、ハードドライブから真っ直ぐ引っ張って接続を外します。 SATA電源ケーブル及びSATAデータケーブルを、ハードドライブから真っ直ぐ引っ張って接続を外します。
    • SATA電源ケーブル及びSATAデータケーブルを、ハードドライブから真っ直ぐ引っ張って接続を外します。

    Hooray no temp sensor

    Headband Harvest - 返信

    The CTO Apple SSD drive is located underneath the Optical Drive on the right. If you’re checking for it’s location, follow the steps to remove the Optical Drive instead, then you’ll find the SSD underneath it.

    Wizdom On Wheels - 返信

  11. ハードドライブをiMacフレームに固定しているT10トルクスネジを2本外します。 アウターケースからハードドライブの上端をわずかに回転させます。
    • ハードドライブをiMacフレームに固定しているT10トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • アウターケースからハードドライブの上端をわずかに回転させます。

    • 2つの基準ピンからハードドライブを持ち上げて外し、アウターケースから取り出します。

  12. 上部ブラケットをハードドライブに固定しているT8トルクスネジを2本外します。 ハードドライブから上部ブラケットを取り外します。
    • 上部ブラケットをハードドライブに固定しているT8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • ハードドライブから上部ブラケットを取り外します。

    • ハードドライブの反対側にあるT8トルクスピンを2本外します。

  13. ハードドライブ表面に貼られているEMIフォームを注意深く剥がします。
    • ハードドライブ表面に貼られているEMIフォームを注意深く剥がします。

    • このEMIフォームを新しいハードドライブに忘れずに貼ってください。

  14. ハードドライブをSSDキットと交換する場合、次の9つの手順に従ってください。 指を使って、筐体のフロントプレートのラッチを押し下げます。ラッチを押さえながら、プレートを外します。 フロントプレートを取り外します。
    • ハードドライブをSSDキットと交換する場合、次の9つの手順に従ってください。

    • 指を使って、筐体のフロントプレートのラッチを押し下げます。ラッチを押さえながら、プレートを外します。

    • フロントプレートを取り外します。

  15. SSDのコネクタの狭い側がエンクロージャのコネクタの狭い側と一致するように、小さなSATAコネクタを並べます。 SATAコネクタが完全に装着されるまで、ドライブをエンクロージャの前面からスライドさせて挿入します。 SSDのポートは、一方向でのみエンクロージャと接続します。 ポートが並列していない場合は、SSDを回転して、再度行ってください。
    • SSDのコネクタの狭い側がエンクロージャのコネクタの狭い側と一致するように、小さなSATAコネクタを並べます。

    • SATAコネクタが完全に装着されるまで、ドライブをエンクロージャの前面からスライドさせて挿入します。

    • SSDのポートは、一方向でのみエンクロージャと接続します。 ポートが並列していない場合は、SSDを回転して、再度行ってください。

  16. エンクロージャーのSSDを固定するためのエンクロージャーキットを使って、2本の#1プラスネジをオプションで取り付けることができます。
    • エンクロージャーのSSDを固定するためのエンクロージャーキットを使って、2本の#1プラスネジをオプションで取り付けることができます。

  17. センサー対応SATA電源ケーブルをエンクロージャーのSATAコネクターの幅が広い側に差し込みます。 ケーブルは一方向にしか接続できないように設計されています。 ケーブルが接続できない場合は、180度回転させて、再度やり直してください。
    • センサー対応SATA電源ケーブルをエンクロージャーのSATAコネクターの幅が広い側に差し込みます。

    • ケーブルは一方向にしか接続できないように設計されています。 ケーブルが接続できない場合は、180度回転させて、再度やり直してください。

  18. 小型温度センサーボードの裏面の接着剤をはがします。 温度センサー用ボードをSSD表面の露出した金属部分で、SATAコネクタにできるだけ近い位置に接着します。 エンクロージャーを取り付けるときに邪魔にならないように、余分な温度センサーのワイヤを折り曲げます。
    • 小型温度センサーボードの裏面の接着剤をはがします。

    • 温度センサー用ボードをSSD表面の露出した金属部分で、SATAコネクタにできるだけ近い位置に接着します。

    • エンクロージャーを取り付けるときに邪魔にならないように、余分な温度センサーのワイヤを折り曲げます。

  19. 古いハードドライブのマウントピンをエンクロージャの側面に取り付けます。
    • 古いハードドライブのマウントピンをエンクロージャの側面に取り付けます。

    • エンクロージャ上の穴にはネジ山が付いていない場合があります。そのため、固定用ピンをねじ込むには、さらに手間がかかります。 ゆっくり時間をかけて慎重に、真っ直ぐねじ込んでください。

  20. 古いハードドライブから取り外したマウンティングブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。 古いハードドライブから取り外したマウンティングブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。
    • 古いハードドライブから取り外したマウンティングブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。

  21. iMacのSATA電源ケーブルを、新しい温度対応のSATA電源ケーブルに接続します。 SATAケーブルが、周囲のコンポーネントと干渉しない位置に配線します。
    • iMacのSATA電源ケーブルを、新しい温度対応のSATA電源ケーブルに接続します。

    • SATAケーブルが、周囲のコンポーネントと干渉しない位置に配線します。

  22. iMacのSATAデータケーブルを筐体のSATAデータコネクタに接続します。 iMacのSATAデータケーブルを筐体のSATAデータコネクタに接続します。
    • iMacのSATAデータケーブルを筐体のSATAデータコネクタに接続します。

    Do you have a photo of how you arranged the wires? The hand in the photo is the way. I’m having trouble making space for the Sata cable

    Silvia Llopis - 返信

    Unfortunately I don’t have additional photos. I understand your issue; the cabling was hard to fit. I ended up bending and carefully folding it so that it didn’t catch anything. Try to find room where it won’t be pinched.

    Arthur Shi -

    i thought everything was good, but i just turned on my imac to install the OS and it’s not seeing my new ssd. i’m trying to install the os using a bootable usb and the dialogue asking me to select a drive pops up, but my new ssd wasn’t on the list! Do you think my SATA cables are pinched? What can it be? i guess i’ll just have to open it and inspect all connections?

    Silvia Llopis -

    lol nevermind i just didn’t realize I had to format the new drive *face palm*

    Silvia Llopis -

    Anyone faced the problem of the “Grey Blinking Question Mark Folder” after this upgrade? I followed all the steps:

    - Tried to reset SMC and NVRAM

    - Formatted the SSD using Disk Utility

    - Tried to reinstall MacOS High Sierra from scratch via recovery mode

    The problem usually comes when the computer goes to sleep, and never comes back alive. When I shut it down and start it up again, the blinking folder came back. Can’t seem to find any other solutions.

    Raynor GAN - 返信

    Mine does not reconize the new SSD - what did I do wrong?

    bennie9922 -

まとめ

デバイスを組み立て直すには、これらの手順と逆の順序に従ってください。

259 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Phillip Takahashi

メンバー登録日: 2011年08月22日

78,030 ポイント

87のガイドは作成済み

Note that if you are replacing the hard drive with a non-Apple hard drive, then you will have problems with the fan running full speed constantly (see http://blog.macsales.com/10206-further-e...). Basically, you'll need to either install a $30 piece of software to control the fans or short out some wires.

jashugan - 返信

You don´t need to short out the wires, just install the free SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET und you´ll be fine :D

Martin Schober -

remember after the glass, to get the aluminum front off, remove the bay for the memory upgrade on the bottom first before you remove the torx screws ans lift to access the bottom case (Between step 2 and 3)

Killen Prophet - 返信

I'm looking to replace my 3.5" HDD in my iMac (mid-2011) with a 2.5" SSD. Will I need an adapter for this?

admiralpumpkin - 返信

Absolutly. You can buy a official one on the Apple Store. I reccommend the dual-drive (HDD & SDD) tho.

marijndepraetere -

I used the newertechnology 2,5–3,5-Adapter for 16 bucks from amazon and it fits 100 %!

Martin Schober -

There are kits that have a thermal circuit and plug between the hard drive and cables to the 3.5" drive to allow other non-apple drives to be installed and still have the fans and diagnostics function normally. No need to short or modify fan speed with software that won't adjust for temperature properly. You just attach the thermal sensor to the drive and plug it in. Usually range from $50-$80 just for the cable, I'm really shocked I can't find them available from ifixit! Just ordered one from the US source.

westly197 - 返信

I successfully replaced my old 2TB HITACHI 3.5" drive (had only 50% health after 2 years left - monitored with "DriveDX") with a SEAGATE SSHD 2TB (+8GB SSD) 3.5" drive and everything works smoothly, INCLUDING TEMPERATURE AND FAN CONTROL (temperature can be read and "Macs fan control" adjusts the fan just right). I cloned my drive with "CarbinCopyCloner" before replacement and I just needed to press ALT when booting, selecting "Recovery" and point to the newly installed drive under "Restart from" (Do this if you see the folder icon with question mark)

eric - 返信

Eric where did you get this drive?

wjspencer -

It looks like "SSD Fan Control" http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ might be an alternative to using the "OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor for iMac 2011 Hard Drive Upgrade"

Maybe I should send some bucks to "exirion" for providing the software without charge - there is a donation button.

johann beda - 返信

I have replaced a few hard drives lately. But on this occasion I replaced the drive with an SSD one and the computer powers on but the screen remains blank. I have checked all the cables are attached. Tried putting the original drive back in. Still blank. any ideas anyone?

info theiMan - 返信

quick and easy, took me about 20 minutes to swap it out. no problems with fan speed or anything else.

Dylan - 返信

FAN SPEED PROBLEM -> FIXED FOR FREE

When replacing HD with same (newer model) type and brand the fan-full-speed problem still occurred. Reason: All HD's not sold by Aplle Store don't have required special apple firmware to handle the Apple built-in fan controls. Fix: FREE program: http://www.crystalidea.com/products?ref=... Don't spend money.

OVERHEAT PROBLEM / CLICKING HD

My medio 2001 iMac heats more then box windows pc: large screen that generates heat very close to components. When you hear the HD "click click", it's safe to say your HD is running too hot. Play with settings in Mac Fan Control prog to find the "no click"-setting. Check manual HD.

SLOW MAC = HOT MAC = BURNING HARD DRIVE TOO MUCH

Macrunning slow? check available RAM in Activity Monitor. If it's less then 1 gig, by some more. Dead cheap at +- 50$ / 4 gig.

EU USERS OF IFIXIT

1) Google for iFixIt Europe to find a German based webstore.

2) Buy kit + the screwset, the screws are USA type.

It's dead easy, took me 30 min.

Good luck!

marijndepraetere - 返信

Question for folks. I have a 3TB drive (WD Caviar Green) that is out of an Apple Time Capsule (the wireless bit died) that I was going to put into my iMac. It's got the Apple logo on it. Does anyone know if this will work without needing the cable or special software?

wyn - 返信

I did this upgrade - Samsung 850 EVO SSD - Adaptadrive & Sensor. The computer won't start now - won't even try to start. I think that the connection at the very top left of the screen to the back might not be correct - it might be broken. How do I deal with that? I went to an authorized Apple store and they said they won't look at it because I messed with it on my own.

Theresa S - 返信

All I had to do was disconnect the vertical sync cable. I supported the LCD with 2 Bic pens and had great access to the hard drive. There was no fan control on the HD. Everything went back together and it works perfectly. It took less than 15 minutes from start of repair to reboot.

jwlussow - 返信

Same for me, no fan control cable, and I even bought the part and had it ready! And I agree, removing the whole panel is overkill, once you get that thin top cable detached it will lift out pretty far and gives plenty of access.

Robert J. Carr -

The Bic tip is a great move… many thanks. My third time inside mine now as I try to resolve a random restart issue - fitted OWC sensor on 2nd time in but now I’m putting the old drive back to see if it still occurs.

Going to be under there again - so much easier with the Bics

Jem Marsh -

Took an hour because I was taking my time and blew out all the nasty dust that permeated the entire inside of the nearly 4 year old iMac. Used an AdaptaDrive with an OWC thermal sensor, and a Samsung 850 EVO 1TB. Unscrewed the pins on the drive and the bracket on top and attached that hardware to the AdaptaDrive frame. Cloned the drive ahead of time and when powered up, the thing screamed to the desktop. Fans are both sitting at ~1150 RPM. So, success!

cvolek - 返信

Added new SSD in place of HDD. I used the method without removing screen, just removing first wire and supporting it on whiteboard markers. I had to drill an extra hole in the upper bracket because it's screw holes were too far away. I used regular 5.5mm drill head, and you can swap the rubber hole inserts to the new hole. It allowed me to easily add the SSD with simple ADATA bracket I got for free with my Samsung EVO. I know you can get 'the right one', but I did with what I had.

kursisskaspars - 返信

Thanks, this guide was PERFECT. I just installed an Intel 730 SSD and now my iMac is SCREAMING FAST. Nice tip on using the Dry Erase Markers to hold open the display so that you only have to disconnect the vertical sync cable. I used a short Torx to undo the HD. I used OWC AdaptaDrive to install the SSD. Love this website. What a great resource for the DIY crowd!

w4hoo - 返信

Giving birth to a flaming porcupine would be easier. Why make it so difficult? At least the memory swap is pretty simple.

joseph85750 - 返信

I tried to install an SSD using this and several other instructions available online. All of the others did it successful and I did not. The installation on the physical drive was easy. Getting my iMac to recover is not. It doesn't respond to the recovery boot. I tried using a bootable usb drive and a fresh install of the OSX, but that froze at "one second remaining". I'm now attempting a restore from time machine, which surprisingly did start, but is so slow that it will take over 9 hours to restore (it's still increasing as I post this). Can anyone give advice?

Kryn Sporry - 返信

Managed to succeed. Here was my situation:

My SSD was brand new and not initialised. Internet recovery wasn't possible as the iMac couldn't boot in recovery mode. I suspect this may be due to that bootable part being absent from the new SSD. Newer models may have a bootable partition in ROM, but my late 2009 iMac didn't.

I made a bootable USB drive on my MacBook Air. That allowed me to boot from the USB in recovery mode.

There I formatted the SSD.

I tried a fresh install of El Capitan, but as explained above, that failed.

I then tried booting from my time machine, which surprisingly worked. It only allows you to do a restore, so I selected the latest backup entry point (a few hours before I made the upgrade.

Restoring took about 9.5 hours, but this morning it had finished as the screensaver was on.

I logged on and it finished setting up my Mac.

The rest of the startup was a bit slower than expected, but I think it was faster than with the original drive.

Kryn Sporry -

GREAT! Replaced my HDD of a MID 2011 iMac 27" with a Crucial SSD 1 TB in 15 minutes (two people).

Performance is 100 to 1, this is really like buying a new iMac, but at 10 % of the cost.

Prior to replacing the HD I made a TimeMachine backup of my iMac and created a USB-Boot device for OS X Sierra.

After installing the SSD drive, boot up from the USB device and make a fresh install of Sierra. After this, connect your TimeMachine backup device (i used a 1 TB external USB HD) and use the Migration-Assistant from the Utilities Programs to restore the User/Apps/Data files from the Time-Machine Backup. The restore took about 5 hours (600 MB) because of USB 2.0 - so be patient.

This way you will end up with a FRESH IOS INSTALL and all your mail/settings/data/apps/fotos... from your TimeMachine Backup.

I absolutely recommend this upgrade because of the exceptional performance gains when using fotos, garage band, motion, final cut pro x, imovie - BIG SMILE!!!

...just do it!...

Martin Schober - 返信

To get rid of the "HDD FAN PROBLEM" I installed HDD FAN CONTROLL app from EXIRION.NET. It´s free and does the job quite well!

Martin Schober - 返信

Thanks for the instructions! :-)

I successfully swapped my iMac's original 1 TB Seagate HDD with a 2 TB Seagate SSHD and everything went smoothly. Prior to swapping the drives, I cloned my original drive to the new drive using Carbon Copy Cloner (https://bombich.com/). After I installed the new drive, my iMac booted up with no issues. I noticed my fan was running continuously so I installed the SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET. I ran this app and set the Hard Disk fan to SMART mode and the fan slowed down to a quiet speed.

Scott Knaub - 返信

Replaced broken stock drive with 2TB Western Digital Gold and OWC In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable for iMac 2011 (model # OWCDIDIMACHDD11) using this procedure. You definitely do not need to remove the whole screen. Just lift the top edge, remove a single cable (the vertical sync cable) and then prop the screen up on both corners - the idea of using two BIC pens worked for me. All worked fine, no fan speed issues.

Kevin Ryan - 返信

Hi, I've three questions:

One, if one is putting in an SSD is replacing the EMI foam necessary? One, it won't touch the chassis with an SSD mounted, and, I wonder if it's only needed for spinning drives?

Two, when replacing drive and using the OWC/MacSales thermal connector cable. getting that cable tucked in inside the inner frame, it's difficult to do without dislodging the wireless antenna connection leads. Is there a trick to doing this without knocking one of these sensitive lead connectors off?

Three, the display data (ZIF) cable seems somewhat imprecise to reconnecting it. It's not a positive click or lock into place. I'm sure the metal clip that retains it needs to be pushed back down, but it's reseating seems so tenuous that I usually boot the computer up before screwing down the display, just to make sure it works. Is there any sure fire way of making sure this cable is reconnected right when putting it back together? The other cables all seat nicely and you know they are either connected or not

Lewis - 返信

Fantastic guide. I use “Macs fan control”. It’s all running well!!

Mike Sambati - 返信

Replaced the original apple 1TB WD drive with a Seagate 5900rpm 4tb hybrid. Excellent instructions. Quite easy to do. No issues with the fan.

Vipul - 返信

Hello folks, my old SSD go down and I replace it with a new one (WD WD10EZEX Blu Hard Disk Desktop 1 TB, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 GB/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5").

Now I’m trying to install the new OS with a USB pen with Install Disk Creator, I restart the Imac, hold down the Alt button and appear a message like “there is no space to install..”

What is wrong? I'm afraid it is not recognized the new SSD…

There are someone can help me?

Francesco Rampoldi - 返信

Solved! I restarted my iMac again, without USB pen drive. It works!

Francesco Rampoldi -

Hi Folks, This was indeed an easy install. The instructions are great.

Unfortunately, after installing a fresh copy of High Sierra on my 2011 iMac, none of my “mice” will allow me to click anything.

Any ideas why?

Art

Arthur Braud - 返信

Here’s some “low hanging fruit” to get out of the way before considering the more mysterious possible causes. Do you have any Bluetooth input devices like a mouse, trackpads or keyboard in the vicinity of the computer? If such items are powered on, they can interfere with even wired mouse clicks. Remove their batteries and wait a few seconds and then see if your mouse works.

El Crashitan -

I just added 1k resistor across the temperature cable connector didn't even needed to cut any cable. just used electrician type not to short out the circuit and good to go. will cost you nothing to do this way. and I have very quite iMac now..

Deniz Bakışlı - 返信

I just finished replacing original 1GB drive with a new 4GB one, same make, same series. By following advice given here about OWC product OWCDIDIMACHDD11 I got one despite it being ridiculously expensive. Absolutely no luck even if I followed OWC’s instructional video carefully while installing the kit. Fan blows at max regardless. Now I managed to get it sorted with Mac Fan Control app but must say that OWC’s kit is a hoax.

juhsep - 返信

I’m really sorry to hear that! Maybe the temperature module is defective. If you bought the kit from iFixit, contact our customer support and we’ll get something worked out for you.

Arthur Shi -

Followed these instructions to install a new SSD drive and it went perfectly. My only suggestion for improvement might be that steps 6-8 aren’t necessary. After removing the vertical synch cable, I was able to raise the display enough to remove the hard drive (and re-install the new SSD drive) without having to remove the cables as described in steps 6-8. My take on it is that the fewer cables I have to unplug and plug back in the smaller the opportunity for damaging something. I have not had any issues with the fan either. I dropped in a couple of 8GB sticks of memory to replace the 2GB ones that came from Apple. The new SSD drive and the memory upgrade makes for a much faster machine. Thanks for the instructions!

Daniel Adams - 返信

I have a mid 2010 iMac. Are these instructions applicable ?

Fog Bank - 返信

Service note: As you can replace the hard drive without disconnecting the 4 cables. Be VERY CAREFUL to put a display screw back in one place to avoid having the display to accidentally fall forward and “rip” the cables out of their connectors. This is a quick way to replace the hard drive. Also note that while other drives usually have a temperature sensor connector/cable, the original Apple 1TB does not. It only had the 2 SATA power and data cables.

Carl Schultz - 返信

Just after buying the iMac I got it to a local Apple Dealer and replaced the default 1TB HDD with a 256GB Samsung SSD + 2TB Seagate Combo. Now the Seagate died (after 6 years, I assume this is ok). So I replaced the Combo with a current Samsung 860 500GB SSD and a WD Blue 2TB HDD. No Issues so far!

Thanks a lot for the Guide!

Some note, I do not have the suction Caps so I was able to grab the Front Glass by applying my fingernails between Glas and Aluminium Body. That worked reasonably well too.

Andreas Hoffmann - 返信

So, I ordered a new SSD drive and a mounting kit. I took the SSD drive and cloned the complete OS onto it and used a USB dock to test. I was able to successfully boot to the SSD drive. I followed these directions and installed the drive. Everything went smoothly until I tried to boot. I get a blinking question mark. The computer does not recognize the drive inside it.

I know the drive works.

Is there a chance that the SATA cables are bad?

Kirk Dickinson - 返信

Great guide!! Replaced my hard drive without any hitch!!!

Roger Nelson - 返信

I replaced the hard disk with a SSD, including therma sensor, installed the OS and got it up the first time. But then I got a new problem, the flashing folder with a question mark kept popping up every now and then after a reboot or after it went to sleep (and never got back). Any ideas how to solve this?

Raynor GAN - 返信

今までで、とても解りやすい図解と説明でした!

この手順で、iMac 27inch mid 2011が2TBのSSDによって

生まれ変わりました♪有難うございます!

nakayama masashi - 返信

This guide was very easy to follow. It was kind of fun to take apart and work on a computer that wasn’t really designed for the consumer to take apart and work on, and the guide made it very easy to do so (apparently successfully - the OS is installing on the new hard drive as I type). The one thing I think could improve it would be an image of the back of the power supply that it’s so important not to touch (and maybe some additional description of its location).

Noah Silbert - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 91

過去 7 日: 429

過去 30 日: 2,699

今までの合計 345,217