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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

ストア

はじめに

お持ちのiMacがSSDかFusion Driveを搭載している場合、ロジックボードの後ろにblade SSDがあります。このガイドはBlade SSDにアクセスし、取り外す手順です。

iMacへの作業を開始する前に iMacの電源プラグを外し、電源のコンデンサの電気を放電させるために電源ボタンを10秒押してください。

コンデンサの周り、電源後ろの露出したハンダ部に触れないよう最大限の注意を払ってください。

    • ヒンジを自由に動かすと、iMacはバランスを失い、作業が難しくなります。 修理はiMacを設置して完了することができますが、iMacサービスのウェッジを使用すれば、より迅速かつ簡単に修理できます。

    • iFixitダンボールボックスから作るサービスウェッジを使用する場合、こちらの組み立て方法を参照してください。

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - 返信

    La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”

    (https://eustore.ifixit.com/fr/Outils/Org...)

    Pierre-Aurélien - 返信

    My $12.99 iMac Service Wedge looks like a $0 soft pillow from the guest room…

    ;-)

    John Fisk - 返信

  1. ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。
    • ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。

    • iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 返信

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 返信

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 返信

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 返信

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - 返信

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - 返信

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - 返信

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - 返信

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - 返信

  2. ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を前向きに進めてください。引いてしまうと、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。 左側に沿ってツールを滑らせます。
    • ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。

    • 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を前向きに進めてください。引いてしまうと、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。

    • 左側に沿ってツールを滑らせます。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 返信

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - 返信

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - 返信

  3. 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。
    • 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。

  4. ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。 ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。
    • ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  5. ディスプレイ上部端も同様に作業を続けます。 ツールで前後に動かしたり、既に切開した部分をもう一度切り込むことで、接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。
    • ディスプレイ上部端も同様に作業を続けます。

    • ツールで前後に動かしたり、既に切開した部分をもう一度切り込むことで、接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - 返信

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - 返信

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - 返信

  6. ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。
    • ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。

  7. ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。 ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。
    • ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。

  8. ディスプレイの右下コーナーまでツールを押しながら切開すれば、作業は終了します。 この時、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。
    • ディスプレイの右下コーナーまでツールを押しながら切開すれば、作業は終了します。

    • この時、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。

  9. 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全に剥がれておらず)ケースに若干装着しています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすには、プラスチックカードが必要です。 iMacのスクリーンを上向きに配置します。 iMacの右上コーナーの、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。
    • 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全に剥がれておらず)ケースに若干装着しています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすには、プラスチックカードが必要です。

    • iMacのスクリーンを上向きに配置します。

    • iMacの右上コーナーの、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。

    • 3/8 インチ(9.5 mm)以上挿入しないでください。内部のコンポーネントが損傷する可能性があります。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 返信

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 返信

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 返信

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - 返信

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - 返信

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - 返信

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - 返信

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - 返信

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - 返信

  10. プラスチックカードをゆっくりと捻って、ディスプレイとフレーム間にスペースを開きます。 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。
    • プラスチックカードをゆっくりと捻って、ディスプレイとフレーム間にスペースを開きます。

    • 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  11. この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。
    • この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。

    • カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 返信

  12. カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。 カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。
    • カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。

  13. 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。
    • 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。

  14. 軽くカードをひねって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。
    • 軽くカードをひねって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。

    • 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。

  15. プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。
    • プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。

  16. カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。 カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。
    • カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。

  17. ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続された状態です。 カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。 剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切開するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。
    • ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続された状態です。

    • カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。

    • 剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切開するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。

    • ディスプレイの上部をフレームから持ち上げます。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 返信

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - 返信

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - 返信

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - 返信

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - 返信

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - 返信

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - 返信

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

  18. ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を引き抜きます。 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを少し持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約15cm程度)
    • ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を引き抜きます。

    • 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを少し持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約15cm程度)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 返信

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 返信

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - 返信

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - 返信

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - 返信

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - 返信

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - 返信

  19. ディスプレイのデータケーブル上のメタル製固定ブラケットを取り出します。 ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。 これは簡単に壊れてしまうデリケートな接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。
    • ディスプレイのデータケーブル上のメタル製固定ブラケットを取り出します。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。

    • これは簡単に壊れてしまうデリケートな接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 返信

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 返信

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 返信

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 返信

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - 返信

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 返信

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - 返信

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - 返信

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 返信

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - 返信

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

  20. ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。 この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。
    • ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。

    • この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。

    • できるだけ多量の接着剤を外縁部から手で剥がしてください。それから接着剤を中央側に向かって引っ張ったり、揺らしてください。

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 返信

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 返信

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 返信

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 返信

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - 返信

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - 返信

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - 返信

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - 返信

  21. コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。
    • コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。

    • 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 返信

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 返信

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 返信

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 返信

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 返信

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - 返信

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - 返信

  22. ディスプレイの取り扱いにはご注意ください。ディスプレイは大きくて重量のあるガラスです。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。 ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。 あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がす場合があります。
    • ディスプレイの取り扱いにはご注意ください。ディスプレイは大きくて重量のあるガラスです。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。

    • ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。

    • あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がす場合があります。

    • 接着剤を切断したら、ディスプレイを装着するために再利用することができません。修理が完了後、このガイドに従って 、ディスプレイをリアエンクロージャーに固定している接着ストリップを交換してください。

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - 返信

  23. ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。
    • ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。

    • 接着テープの下にワイヤーやケーブルがある場合は、必ずテープを先に外します。

    • ケーブルがシャーシに接着されている場合は、加熱されたiOpenerまたはヘアドライヤーを使用して接着剤を最初に柔らかくします。 ケーブルの下にある開口ピックをスライドさせて緩めます。 繊細なコネクタを直接引っ張らないでください。

    • フォーム製クッションピースの下にある開口部のピックをスライドさせてディスプレイから分離し、ゆっくりと引き出します。 新しいディスプレイに再度取り付けるには、両面テープが必要な場合があります。

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 返信

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 返信

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - 返信

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - 返信

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - 返信

  24. 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。
    • 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。

  25. ロジックボード上のソケットから、左のスピーカーケーブルをまっすぐ抜きます 。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボード間の隙間からケーブルを外します。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔がスピーカーケーブルのために狭すぎる場合は、スピーカーケーブルを取り外して、ケーブルを所定の位置に置きます。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから、左のスピーカーケーブルをまっすぐ抜きます 。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボード間の隙間からケーブルを外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔がスピーカーケーブルのために狭すぎる場合は、スピーカーケーブルを取り外して、ケーブルを所定の位置に置きます。

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  26. 電源装置の背面にあるはんだ接合部に触れないように注意してください。 コンデンサには、危険なショックを与えるほど十分に充電されている場合があります。 スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。 スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。
    • 電源装置の背面にあるはんだ接合部に触れないように注意してください。 コンデンサには、危険なショックを与えるほど十分に充電されている場合があります。

    • スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 返信

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 返信

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - 返信

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - 返信

  27. 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約1cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約1cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。
    • 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約1cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  28. 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。
    • 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - 返信

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  29. 左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔が狭すぎてスピーカーケーブルを先に取り外すことができない場合は、スピーカーを取り外すときにスピーカーケーブルを静かに引き抜きます。 スピーカーの端を引きながらコネクタの端を押し、ケーブルをハードディスクドライブの右のブラケットの下に通します。
    • 左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔が狭すぎてスピーカーケーブルを先に取り外すことができない場合は、スピーカーを取り外すときにスピーカーケーブルを静かに引き抜きます。

    • スピーカーの端を引きながらコネクタの端を押し、ケーブルをハードディスクドライブの右のブラケットの下に通します。

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 返信

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - 返信

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - 返信

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - 返信

  30. SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。 SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。
    • SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - 返信

  31. 左側ハードドライブブラケットをリアケースに固定している7.3 mm T10ネジを2本外します。
    • 左側ハードドライブブラケットをリアケースに固定している7.3 mm T10ネジを2本外します。

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 返信

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 返信

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - 返信

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - 返信

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - 返信

  32. ハードドライブと左側ハードドライブブラケットを一緒に持ちます。 リアケースから左側ケースを上に傾けて、アセンブリを左側にスライドさせます。 ハードドライブを取り外し、左側ハードドライブブラケットをiMacから取り外します。
    • ハードドライブと左側ハードドライブブラケットを一緒に持ちます。

    • リアケースから左側ケースを上に傾けて、アセンブリを左側にスライドさせます。

    • ハードドライブを取り外し、左側ハードドライブブラケットをiMacから取り外します。

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 返信

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - 返信

  33. 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。
    • 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

    chuck solie - 返信

    If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  34. 電源で作業するときは、コンデンサのリードや電源の背面のはんだ接合部に触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。 電源の制御ケーブルを電源から切り離します。
    • 電源で作業するときは、コンデンサのリードや電源の背面のはんだ接合部に触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。

    • 電源の制御ケーブルを電源から切り離します。

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - 返信

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - 返信

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - 返信

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - 返信

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - 返信

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - 返信

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - 返信

  35. 背面ケースに電源を固定している以下の4本のねじを取り外します。(モデルによってT8の場合とT10の場合に分かれています)
    • 背面ケースに電源を固定している以下の4本のねじを取り外します。(モデルによってT8の場合とT10の場合に分かれています)

    • 23.7 mm T10トルクスネジー2本

    • 7.3 mm T10トルクスネジー2本

  36. 電源をケースから取り外さないでください。2本のケーブルでロジックボードに接続されています。 電源ボードをケースの左端に向かって動かし、ロジックボードのくぼみから離します 電源ボードをケースの左端に向かって動かし、ロジックボードのくぼみから離します
    • 電源をケースから取り外さないでください。2本のケーブルでロジックボードに接続されています。

    • 電源ボードをケースの左端に向かって動かし、ロジックボードのくぼみから離します

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  37. DC電源ケーブルコネクタのタブを押し、ロジックボードの背面にあるソケットからまっすぐ引き出します。 DC電源ケーブルコネクタのタブを押し、ロジックボードの背面にあるソケットからまっすぐ引き出します。
    • DC電源ケーブルコネクタのタブを押し、ロジックボードの背面にあるソケットからまっすぐ引き出します。

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - 返信

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - 返信

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - 返信

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - 返信

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - 返信

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - 返信

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - 返信

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - 返信

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  38. コンデンサのリード線や電源装置の背面の露出したはんだ接合部には触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。 メールボックスを開くのと同じように、電源装置の上部を手前にひっくり返して、ACインレットケーブルのコネクタを確認します。 ACインレットケーブルコネクタを外します。
    • コンデンサのリード線や電源装置の背面の露出したはんだ接合部には触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。

    • メールボックスを開くのと同じように、電源装置の上部を手前にひっくり返して、ACインレットケーブルのコネクタを確認します。

    • ACインレットケーブルコネクタを外します。

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - 返信

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - 返信

  39. 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。
    • 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。

  40. 右スピーカーを軽く右に軽く揺り動かし、ロジックボード上のケーブル接続にアクセスします。 右スピーカーを軽く右に軽く揺り動かし、ロジックボード上のケーブル接続にアクセスします。
    • 右スピーカーを軽く右に軽く揺り動かし、ロジックボード上のケーブル接続にアクセスします。

  41. スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから右のスピーカーケーブルのコネクタを緩めます。 コネクタを右に引っ張ってソケットから外します。 コネクタを右に引っ張ってソケットから外します。
    • スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから右のスピーカーケーブルのコネクタを緩めます。

    • コネクタを右に引っ張ってソケットから外します。

  42. スピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 スピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 スピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。
    • スピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - 返信

    You have to remove the five small screws on the lower edge of the iMac to remove a strange bracket or something, like the 21.5” 2012->… iMacs

    Federico Barutto -

    Same here. 2013 27”. If you remove two of the tiny screws along the bottom edge then it comes out.

    Dave Sands -

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換 step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    During reassemble, route the speaker cable behind the two protrusions under the logic board. I am not sure if this makes a huge difference but that’s was the configuration during disassembly.

    Joe - 返信

    As with the left speaker, you need to slide the speaker toward the top of the iMac to get it out from under the chin before lifting up.

    ace - 返信

  43. スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ファンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから切り離します。 スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ファンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから切り離します。 スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ファンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから切り離します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ファンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから切り離します。

  44. ファンを排気ダクトに接続している黒いテープを剥がします。 テープを排気ダクトの所定の位置に残したままにします。ファンを取り出すには、接合部分を露出する必要があります。
    • ファンを排気ダクトに接続している黒いテープを剥がします。

    • テープを排気ダクトの所定の位置に残したままにします。ファンを取り出すには、接合部分を露出する必要があります。

  45. ファンをリアケースに固定している3本の12.4 mm T10ネジを外します。
    • ファンをリアケースに固定している3本の12.4 mm T10ネジを外します。

  46. iMacからファンを取り外します。 iMacからファンを取り外します。
    • iMacからファンを取り外します。

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

    ebay - 返信

  47. スパッジャーのフラットエンドを使用して、4つのアンテナコネクタのそれぞれをAirMac / Bluetoothカードから切り離します。 ケーブルを再接続するときは、各コネクタの元の位置に注意してください。カードの左から右に向かって、アンテナは次の順序で接続されます。 一番左
    • スパッジャーのフラットエンドを使用して、4つのアンテナコネクタのそれぞれをAirMac / Bluetoothカードから切り離します。

    • ケーブルを再接続するときは、各コネクタの元の位置に注意してください。カードの左から右に向かって、アンテナは次の順序で接続されます。

    • 一番左

    • 右上

    • 右下

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - 返信

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - 返信

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - 返信

    Before I disconnect the cables, I use different color sharpies and draw a different color on each one’s head & then I take a picture of the cables connected to the board. Pic is my reference of which cable goes to what connector.

    lamajr - 返信

    I have a 2017 and I agree with Tanya. There are 2 T4 screws fastening the airport card to the motherboard. It’s easier to remove these and gently pull the airport card straight up out of the motherboard while leaving the 4 antenna wires fastened. You can’t see the connector or the airport card as it’s on the back side of the motherboard but just wiggle it side to side while pulling straight up and you’ll have no problem. I’ve broken off those tiny airport connectors in the past and it’s no fun replacing them.

    Mike Jones - 返信

    same as Greg, did with the torx t5

    Alejandro Piris Nino - 返信

    I have a 2019 iMac and we needed to use a T4 screw

    Mike Manasewitsch - 返信

    My late 2015 has a Airport/Bluetooth card secured with two T5 screws. After removing them you can just wiggle and unplug it from the logic board, without needing to fiddle with the antenna connectors.

    Robin Gottschalk - 返信

  48. これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。 iSightカメラケーブルの金属製保持ブラケットを持ち上げます。 カメラケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部にまっすぐ引きます。
    • これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。

    • iSightカメラケーブルの金属製保持ブラケットを持ち上げます。

    • カメラケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部にまっすぐ引きます。

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - 返信

  49. スパッジャーのフラットエンドを使用して、ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外します。 ケーブルを静かに押し出します。 ケーブルを静かに押し出します。
    • スパッジャーのフラットエンドを使用して、ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外します。

    • ケーブルを静かに押し出します。

    On my 2017 iMac there is a tiny little cable and connector on the motherboard that is approximately half way along the motherboard and is connected down towards the base of the case. It came free easily when I removed my motherboard but just wanted to remind people to reconnect!

    Stuart Swaffer - 返信

    It’s the microphone cable!

    Koen van Eijk - 返信

    This pulls straight up, towards you.

    Eric - 返信

    I broke mine…when inserted the speaker… How do I replace the headphone jack and cable?

    mmx2000 - 返信

  50. ロジックボードの前面から次のネジを外します。 23.7 mm T10ネジ 2本
    • ロジックボードの前面から次のネジを外します。

    • 23.7 mm T10ネジ 2本

    • 7.4 mmのT10ネジ 4本

    • 20.8 mm T25スペーサスねじ 1個

    • T10キャプティブスクリュー 1本

    • このネジはロジックボードの穴の下にあります。 固定ドライバまたはiFixitドライバキットから60 mmの延長が必要です。

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - 返信

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - 返信

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - 返信

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - 返信

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - 返信

    My 2017 had all T8’s, including the captive screw beneath the motherboard

    Mike Jones - 返信

    My 2017 had 4 T8 screws along the bottom of the logic board, not 3

    greg - 返信

    Late 2015 iMac - mine had all T8 screws and 4 along the bottom row

    Pete Mackenzie - 返信

    On 2019 iMac

    Red = T8

    Orange = T8

    Green = T8

    Yellow = T25

    Mike Manasewitsch - 返信

    2017 here.

    IMPORTANT - note Tanya’s comment. The narrow flat cable in the middle - it’s the mic cable on a *tiny* ZIF. See iMac Intel 21.5インチ Retina 4K Display (2017) ロジックボードの交換

    Also has the extra bolt middle lower edge.

    All T8 except the yellow T25.

    Andrew Gough - 返信

  51. ハードディスクのSATAケーブルはまだ取り外せませんが、ロジックボードを取り外す際に邪魔になるでしょう。 右側のハードドライブブラケットからケーブルとコネクタを引っ張ります。ケーブルをデバイス本体の右側、排気ポートの邪魔にならない位置へ寄せます。 右側のハードドライブブラケットからケーブルとコネクタを引っ張ります。ケーブルをデバイス本体の右側、排気ポートの邪魔にならない位置へ寄せます。
    • ハードディスクのSATAケーブルはまだ取り外せませんが、ロジックボードを取り外す際に邪魔になるでしょう。

    • 右側のハードドライブブラケットからケーブルとコネクタを引っ張ります。ケーブルをデバイス本体の右側、排気ポートの邪魔にならない位置へ寄せます。

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - 返信

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - 返信

    Excellent tip, Kenneth! I did the same, made things easier.

    Dave Hoppenrath - 返信

    Jesse, no SATA cable inside. My iMac came only with the blade SSD and an empty HDD bay, so I have to buy the SATA cable separately.

    mveras1972 - 返信

  52. ヒートシンク排気ダクトの上部から2本の5.7 mm T10ネジを取り外します。
    • ヒートシンク排気ダクトの上部から2本の5.7 mm T10ネジを取り外します。

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - 返信

    Ditto for the 2013 27”. One extra screw

    Dave Sands - 返信

    My model 2546 late 2012 has 2 screws on heat sink shroud. First is on left side. The right can only be accessed with board tilted out a bit.

    Michael Wright - 返信

  53. ロジックボードを少し傾けます。 ロジックボードをまっすぐ上に持ち上げ、iMacから取り出します。 リア・ケースの内側に取り付けられているネジの柱にひっかからないように注意してください。 ロジックボードをまっすぐ上に持ち上げ、iMacから取り出します。 リア・ケースの内側に取り付けられているネジの柱にひっかからないように注意してください。
    • ロジックボードを少し傾けます。

    • ロジックボードをまっすぐ上に持ち上げ、iMacから取り出します。 リア・ケースの内側に取り付けられているネジの柱にひっかからないように注意してください。