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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

iMac Intel 27インチ Retina 5Kディスプレイのディスプレイを取り外すには、専用のiMacオープニングツールを使用して接着剤を切断する必要があります。修理が完了したら、接着剤ストリップの交換ガイドに沿って古い接着剤を掻き取って、新しい両面接着剤ストリップと交換する必要があります。

iMacで作業を始める前に:コンピュータを取り外し、電源ボタンを10秒間押し続けると、電源装置のコンデンサが放電されます。

コンデンサのリード線や電源装置の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください

    • ヒンジを自由に動かすと、iMacはバランスを失い、作業が難しくなります。 修理はiMacを設置して完了することができますが、iMacサービスのウェッジを使用すれば、より迅速かつ簡単に修理できます。

    • iFixitダンボールボックスから作るサービスウェッジを使用する場合、こちらの組み立て方法を参照してください。

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - 返信

    La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”

    (https://eustore.ifixit.com/fr/Outils/Org...)

    Pierre-Aurélien - 返信

    My $12.99 iMac Service Wedge looks like a $0 soft pillow from the guest room…

    ;-)

    John Fisk - 返信

  1. ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。
    • ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。

    • iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 返信

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 返信

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 返信

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 返信

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - 返信

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - 返信

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - 返信

  2. ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を前向きに進めてください。引いてしまうと、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。 左側に沿ってツールを滑らせます。
    • ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。

    • 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を前向きに進めてください。引いてしまうと、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。

    • 左側に沿ってツールを滑らせます。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 返信

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - 返信

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

  3. 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。
    • 続けて左上部のコーナーまでツールを移動します。

  4. ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。 ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。
    • ディスプレイの左側上部に沿って接着剤を切り込みます。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  5. ディスプレイ上部端も同様に作業を続けます。 ツールで前後に動かしたり、既に切開した部分をもう一度切り込むことで、接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。
    • ディスプレイ上部端も同様に作業を続けます。

    • ツールで前後に動かしたり、既に切開した部分をもう一度切り込むことで、接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - 返信

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - 返信

  6. ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。
    • ディスプレイの右上部のコーナー周辺もツールで押して切開します。

  7. ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。 ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。
    • ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押しながら下部に向けて移動します。

  8. 今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る

    今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る
  9. ディスプレイの右下コーナーまでツールを押しながら切開すれば、作業は終了します。 この時、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。
    • ディスプレイの右下コーナーまでツールを押しながら切開すれば、作業は終了します。

    • この時、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。

  10. 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全に剥がれておらず)ケースに若干装着しています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすには、プラスチックカードが必要です。 iMacのスクリーンを上向きに配置します。 iMacの右上コーナーの、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。
    • 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全に剥がれておらず)ケースに若干装着しています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすには、プラスチックカードが必要です。

    • iMacのスクリーンを上向きに配置します。

    • iMacの右上コーナーの、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。

    • 3/8 インチ(9.5 mm)以上挿入しないでください。内部のコンポーネントが損傷する可能性があります。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 返信

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 返信

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 返信

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - 返信

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - 返信

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - 返信

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - 返信

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - 返信

  11. プラスチックカードをゆっくりと捻って、ディスプレイとフレーム間にスペースを開きます。 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。
    • プラスチックカードをゆっくりと捻って、ディスプレイとフレーム間にスペースを開きます。

    • 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  12. この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。
    • この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。

    • カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 返信

  13. カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。 カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。
    • カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをその場に残しておきます。

  14. 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。
    • 左上コーナーのディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。

  15. 軽くカードをひねって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。
    • 軽くカードをひねって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。

    • 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。

  16. プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。
    • プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの手前で止めます。

  17. カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。 カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。
    • カードを左上コーナーの下に戻します。

  18. ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続された状態です。 カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。 剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切開するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。
    • ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続された状態です。

    • カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。

    • 剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切開するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。

    • ディスプレイの上部をフレームから持ち上げます。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 返信

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - 返信

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - 返信

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - 返信

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - 返信

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - 返信

  19. ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を引き抜きます。 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを少し持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約15cm程度)
    • ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を引き抜きます。

    • 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを少し持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約15cm程度)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 返信

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 返信

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - 返信

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - 返信

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - 返信

  20. ディスプレイのデータケーブル上のメタル製固定ブラケットを取り出します。 ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。 これは簡単に壊れてしまうデリケートな接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。
    • ディスプレイのデータケーブル上のメタル製固定ブラケットを取り出します。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。

    • これは簡単に壊れてしまうデリケートな接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 返信

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 返信

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 返信

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 返信

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - 返信

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 返信

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - 返信

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - 返信

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 返信

  21. ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。 この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。
    • ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。

    • この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。

    • できるだけ多量の接着剤を外縁部から手で剥がしてください。それから接着剤を中央側に向かって引っ張ったり、揺らしてください。

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 返信

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 返信

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 返信

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 返信

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - 返信

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - 返信

  22. コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。
    • コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。

    • 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 返信

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 返信

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 返信

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 返信

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 返信

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - 返信

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - 返信

  23. ディスプレイの取り扱いにはご注意ください。ディスプレイは大きくて重量のあるガラスです。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。 ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。 あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がす場合があります。
    • ディスプレイの取り扱いにはご注意ください。ディスプレイは大きくて重量のあるガラスです。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。

    • ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。

    • あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がす場合があります。

    • 接着剤を切断したら、ディスプレイを装着するために再利用することができません。修理が完了後、このガイドに従って 、ディスプレイをリアエンクロージャーに固定している接着ストリップを交換してください。

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - 返信

  24. ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。
    • ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。

    • 接着テープの下にワイヤーやケーブルがある場合は、必ずテープを先に外します。

    • ケーブルがシャーシに接着されている場合は、加熱されたiOpenerまたはヘアドライヤーを使用して接着剤を最初に柔らかくします。 ケーブルの下にある開口ピックをスライドさせて緩めます。 繊細なコネクタを直接引っ張らないでください。

    • フォーム製クッションピースの下にある開口部のピックをスライドさせてディスプレイから分離し、ゆっくりと引き出します。 新しいディスプレイに再度取り付けるには、両面テープが必要な場合があります。

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 返信

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 返信

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - 返信

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - 返信

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - 返信

終わりに

お使いのデバイスを再組み立てするには、以下の手順を逆の手順で行い、 接着ストリップの交換ガイド を使用してディスプレイガラスを取り付け直します。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?ベーシックなトラブルシューティングのページを参照するか、アンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。

39 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Sam Goldheart

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If you cut around the display well and take your time to roll back and forth (using the iFixit roller opener tool), especially around the corners, you don't actually need to use any cards (Steps 9 - 17) to get the screen to come free of the body. On the top edge left and right, take each end of the screen gently and pry free with your fingers - GENTLY - and you will hear the remaining tape separating along the sides. Take care NOT to flex the screen as you do so.

If you are removing a cracked screen (as I was), be super careful to pry and swing the display EVENLY up from the body - this is an item of utmost importance, whether you use cards or not to get the last of the adhesive to release.

drmacnut - 返信

Finally, with the power and data cables disconnected and the display held up at around 80º, you will find that the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display assembly will take quite some work to free. As the guide says, you can use a plastic card; but I found it necessary to use a metal spuger (carefully so as not to touch the power supply board of course!) in order to free the lower adhesive and remove the display.

Overall, take your time and focus on "being one with the iMac" as you work, and you will find it quite trivial to remove this 27" retina display.

drmacnut - 返信

hello, I'm writing from Italy. I have a problem with the screen of the iMac 27 "5k retina late 2014, purchased the 12-22-2014, I do not know if the warranty covers this type of defect within two years. There are spots in the lower left, appear as sagging, I think it's the dust, but I assure you that the environment is clean with no smoke or whatever. Obviously the spots are inside, how can I fix it, other news of these spots? I have to completely change the display or can separate the glass from the monitor LED?

Many thanks

Enzo

Enzo - 返信

this should be covered by warranty. call applecare.

vireshkj -

Hello,

Any Update? Mine has the same issue and it is out of warranty.

Would an air blower do the trick past point 17/18?

Homoud Al-Jalahma -

Do you know where I can order a new replacement screen from? Im based in the UK? Thank you

jujuhay - 返信

I'm having some trouble finding compatible displays for this repair online. What is the correct part name? How can I be sure that the part is the Late 2015 version with the increased color gamut over the earlier models?

Tim Camber - 返信

Cracked my screen trying to separate the corner. Great.

derek - 返信

Very Fragile Glass. Cracked Top Left Hand Side, just trying to move it.

I am very competent IT & Repair, no problems, up till now, over 20 Years in the Business.

I must search out & get a Replacement. It's only a small FRACTURE, but its annoying.

Thanks for the info.

It's the same type of Replacement, for many Smart Phones.

Stephen Bailey - 返信

Hi, I updated my brand new iMac and everything went perfectly well except that the adhesive strip kit on iFixit is no longer a good fit to the new iMacs… it can still do the trick but it’s it perfectly aligned so is there another kit available somewhere?

On the other I fell over my desk and broke part of the screen, it’s still working but I’d like to replace it, would you happen to know where I can purchase a 27” screen for the new iMacs? Thanks in advance,

fpeliss - 返信

This is a crappy cheap design. Almost looks as if it is made to break easily. Cracked the display following these instructions line by line just to upgrade the hard drive on my brand new iMac.

Ana Tenorio - 返信

Does anyone have a link to a reliable part replacement for this screen?

Jeremiah Choi - 返信

I’m thinking of buying an iMac, which hasn’t damaged glass panel.

Apparently, the actual LCD display is working correctly.

Am am I right in thinking that this tutorial explains how to remove the full assembly of LCD panel plus glass front?

If so, how can I remove only the glass, without disconnecting any cables?

Alex - 返信

I did it but I think I either messed up the display power or the display data cable because I have no display… I hear the Apple boot sound when I power the display on… does anyone have a suggestion.

Reginald Story - 返信

Hola buenas noches, tengo una iMac 2015 de 27”, los envíos que manejan son internacionales?, les escribo desde méxico

pecas_c.ronaldo - 返信

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