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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

パーツ&ツール

はじめに

ハードディスクドライブを交換するには、ディスプレイを分離し、左のスピーカーを取り外す必要があります。

このガイドには、iMacのハードドライブをSSDでアップグレードする手順も記載されています。 Macのファンが正しい速度で動作するように、SSDの温度センサーをインストールする方法について説明します。

iMacで作業を始める前に:コンピュータのプラグを抜き、電源ボタンを10秒間押し続けて、電源装置のコンデンサを放電させます。

コンデンサのリード線や電源装置の背面の露出したはんだ接合部には触れないよう十分注意してください

ビデオの概要

  1. ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。 iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。
    • ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。

    • iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 返信

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 返信

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 返信

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 返信

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - 返信

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - 返信

  2. ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を進めてください。もし引いた場合、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。 左側全ての上にツールを滑らせます。
    • ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。

    • 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を進めてください。もし引いた場合、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。

    • 左側全ての上にツールを滑らせます。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 返信

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - 返信

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

  3. 続けて左上部コーナーまでツールを転がします。 続けて左上部コーナーまでツールを転がします。 続けて左上部コーナーまでツールを転がします。
    • 続けて左上部コーナーまでツールを転がします。

  4. ディスプレイの左側上部を沿って接着剤を切り込みます。 ディスプレイの左側上部を沿って接着剤を切り込みます。
    • ディスプレイの左側上部を沿って接着剤を切り込みます。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  5. ディスプレイ上面も同様に続けます。 ツールで前後に動かしたり既に切った部分をもう一度切ることで接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。
    • ディスプレイ上面も同様に続けます。

    • ツールで前後に動かしたり既に切った部分をもう一度切ることで接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - 返信

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - 返信

  6. ディスプレイの右上面周囲の角もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上面周囲の角もツールで押して切開します。 ディスプレイの右上面周囲の角もツールで押して切開します。
    • ディスプレイの右上面周囲の角もツールで押して切開します。

  7. ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押し下げます。 ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押し下げます。
    • ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押し下げます。

  8. ディスプレイの右下角までツールを押しながら切開して作業は終了します。 このとき、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。
    • ディスプレイの右下角までツールを押しながら切開して作業は終了します。

    • このとき、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。

  9. 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全にはがれておらず)ケースに若干繋がっています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすにはプラスチックカードが必要です。 iMacの画面側を上に向けます。 iMacの右上隅から、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。
    • 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全にはがれておらず)ケースに若干繋がっています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすにはプラスチックカードが必要です。

    • iMacの画面側を上に向けます。

    • iMacの右上隅から、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。

    • 3/8 インチ(9.5 mm)以上挿入しないでください。内部の部品が損傷する可能性があります。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 返信

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 返信

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 返信

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - 返信

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - 返信

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - 返信

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - 返信

  10. プラスチックカードをゆっくりとねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを開きます。 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。
    • プラスチックカードをゆっくりとねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを開きます。

    • 力を入れすぎるとガラスが割れてしまいます。注意しながら作業し、隙間は約1/4インチ(6mm)以上開けないようにしてください。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  11. この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。 カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。
    • この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。

    • カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 返信

  12. カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをそこに残しておきます。 カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをそこに残しておきます。
    • カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをそこに残しておきます。

  13. 左上隅のディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上隅のディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。 左上隅のディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。
    • 左上隅のディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。

  14. 軽くカードをねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。
    • 軽くカードをねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。

    • 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。

  15. プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの直前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの直前で止めます。 プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの直前で止めます。
    • プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの直前で止めます。

  16. Nintendo Switch 修理キット

    ゲームを再開するための、早くて簡単な修理キット

    Switch 修理キットページへ

    Nintendo Switch 修理キット

    ゲームを再開するための、早くて簡単な修理キット

    Switch 修理キットページへ
  17. カードを左上隅の上部に差し込みます。 カードを左上隅の上部に差し込みます。
    • カードを左上隅の上部に差し込みます。

  18. ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続されたままの状態です。 カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。 固着されたまま剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切断するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。
    • ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続されたままの状態です。

    • カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。

    • 固着されたまま剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切断するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。

    • ディスプレイの上部をフレームから持ち上げます。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 返信

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - 返信

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - 返信

  19. ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を抜きます。 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを(少し)持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約20cm程度)
    • ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を抜きます。

    • 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを(少し)持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約20cm程度)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 返信

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 返信

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - 返信

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - 返信

  20. ディスプレイのデータケーブル上の金属製の留め金具を取り出します。 ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。 これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。
    • ディスプレイのデータケーブル上の金属製の留め金具を取り出します。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。

    • これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 返信

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 返信

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 返信

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 返信

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - 返信

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 返信

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - 返信

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - 返信

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - 返信

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 返信

  21. ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。 この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。
    • ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。

    • この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。

    • できるだけ多量の接着剤を外縁部から手で剥がしてください。それから接着剤を中央側に向かって引っ張ったり、揺らしてください。

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 返信

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 返信

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 返信

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 返信

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - 返信

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - 返信

  22. コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。
    • コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。

    • 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 返信

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 返信

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 返信

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 返信

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 返信

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - 返信

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - 返信

  23. ディスプレイの取り扱いには非常に注意してください。大きくて重いガラス製です。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。 ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。 あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がさなければならない場合があります。
    • ディスプレイの取り扱いには非常に注意してください。大きくて重いガラス製です。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。

    • ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。

    • あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がさなければならない場合があります。

    • 接着剤を切断したら、ディスプレイを再封印するために使うことはできません。修理が完了したら、このガイドに従って 、ディスプレイをリアエンクロージャーに固定している接着ストリップを交換してください。

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - 返信

  24. ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。
    • ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。

    • 接着テープの下にワイヤーやケーブルがある場合は、必ずテープを先に外します。

    • ケーブルがシャーシに接着されている場合は、加熱されたiOpenerまたはヘアドライヤーを使用して接着剤を最初に柔らかくします。 ケーブルの下にある開口ピックをスライドさせて緩めます。 繊細なコネクタを直接引っ張らないでください。

    • フォーム製クッションピースの下にある開口部のピックをスライドさせてディスプレイから分離し、ゆっくりと引き出します。 新しいディスプレイに再度取り付けるには、両面テープが必要な場合があります。

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 返信

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 返信

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - 返信

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - 返信

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - 返信

    • ヒンジを自由に動かすと、iMacはバランスを失い、作業が難しくなります。 修理はiMacを設置して完了することができますが、iMacサービスのウェッジを使用すれば、より迅速かつ簡単に修理できます。

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - 返信

    La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”

    (https://eustore.ifixit.com/fr/Outils/Org...)

    Pierre-Aurélien - 返信

  25. 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。
    • 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - 返信

    No need to remove speaker or hard drive to replace power supply. Not clear at all why these steps are included.

    nicejob - 返信

    *** Skip directly to Step 31 if you’re just replacing the hard drive. These next steps are totally unnecessary for that! They just add complexity and increase the chances for something going wrong. ***

    Damian Chadwick - 返信

    Avoid Extra Steps! Again, you DO. NOT. NEED. TO. REMOVE. THE. RIGHT. SPEAKER. Just take out the two speaker mounting screws and scoot the speaker enclosure to the left a bit to access the two Hard Drive bracket screws on the left side. Once you remove the two bracket screws you can easily remove / replace the drive.

    clinton - 返信

  26. ロジックボード上のソケットから左のスピーカーケーブルを抜きます。 ソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボード間の隙間からケーブルを外します。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔がスピーカーケーブルのために狭すぎる場合は、スピーカーケーブルを取り外して、ケーブルを所定の位置に置きます。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから左のスピーカーケーブルを抜きます。 ソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボード間の隙間からケーブルを外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔がスピーカーケーブルのために狭すぎる場合は、スピーカーケーブルを取り外して、ケーブルを所定の位置に置きます。

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  27. 電源装置の背面にあるはんだ接合部に触れないように注意してください。 コンデンサには、危険なショックを与えるほど十分に充電されている場合があります。 スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。 スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。
    • 電源装置の背面にあるはんだ接合部に触れないように注意してください。 コンデンサには、危険なショックを与えるほど十分に充電されている場合があります。

    • スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 返信

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 返信

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - 返信

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - 返信

  28. 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約0.5 インチ=1.27cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約0.5 インチ=1.27cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。
    • 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約0.5 インチ=1.27cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  29. 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。
    • 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - 返信

  30. 左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔が狭すぎてスピーカーケーブルを先に取り外すことができない場合は、スピーカーを取り外すときにスピーカーケーブルを静かに引き抜きます。 スピーカーの端を引きながらコネクタの端を押し、ケーブルをハードディスクドライブの右のブラケットの下に通します。
    • 左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔が狭すぎてスピーカーケーブルを先に取り外すことができない場合は、スピーカーを取り外すときにスピーカーケーブルを静かに引き抜きます。

    • スピーカーの端を引きながらコネクタの端を押し、ケーブルをハードディスクドライブの右のブラケットの下に通します。

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 返信

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - 返信

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - 返信

  31. SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。 SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。
    • SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - 返信

  32. 左側ハードドライブブラケットをリアケースに固定している7.3 mm T10ネジを2本外します。
    • 左側ハードドライブブラケットをリアケースに固定している7.3 mm T10ネジを2本外します。

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 返信

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 返信

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - 返信

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - 返信

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - 返信

  33. ハードドライブと左側ハードドライブブラケットを一緒に持ちます。 リアケースから左側ケースを上に傾けて、アセンブリを左側にスライドさせます。 ハードドライブを取り外し、左側ハードドライブブラケットをiMacから取り外します。
    • ハードドライブと左側ハードドライブブラケットを一緒に持ちます。

    • リアケースから左側ケースを上に傾けて、アセンブリを左側にスライドさせます。

    • ハードドライブを取り外し、左側ハードドライブブラケットをiMacから取り外します。

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 返信

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - 返信

  34. 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。
    • 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  35. ハードドライブから4本の8.1 mm T8ネジポストを取り外し、交換用ドライブ筐体に移します。
    • ハードドライブから4本の8.1 mm T8ネジポストを取り外し、交換用ドライブ筐体に移します。

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd - 返信

  36. SSDキットを使ってハードディスクドライブを交換する場合、次の8つの手順に従ってください。 囲んでいるエンクロージャ(筐体)の前面プレートの掛け金を指で押し下げます。 掛け金を押し下げたまま、プレートを開きます。 前面プレートを取り外します。
    • SSDキットを使ってハードディスクドライブを交換する場合、次の8つの手順に従ってください。

    • 囲んでいるエンクロージャ(筐体)の前面プレートの掛け金を指で押し下げます。 掛け金を押し下げたまま、プレートを開きます。

    • 前面プレートを取り外します。

    Ich denke die Frontplatte hätte anschliessend auch wieder eingesetzt gehört - bin die Anleitung Schritt für Schritt durch gegangen, und mir ist leider gar nicht aufgefallen, dass dieser Schritt fehlt. Nun ist der iMac bereits wieder verklebt und beim Aufräumen ist mir die übrig gebliebene Frontplatte untergekommen.

    Aber halb so schlimm, die SSD ist angeschraubt, kann sich also eh nicht bewegen.

    Gerhard Dietrichsteiner - 返信

  37. SSDコネクタの短辺がエンクロージャのコネクタの短辺と一致するように、小さなSATAコネクタを並べます。 SATAコネクタが完全に装着されるまで、エンクロージャの前面からドライブをスライドさせます。 SSDは一方向にのみエンクロージャと接続します。 コネクタが一列に並んでいない場合は、SSDを回転してもう一度試してください。
    • SSDコネクタの短辺がエンクロージャのコネクタの短辺と一致するように、小さなSATAコネクタを並べます。

    • SATAコネクタが完全に装着されるまで、エンクロージャの前面からドライブをスライドさせます。

    • SSDは一方向にのみエンクロージャと接続します。 コネクタが一列に並んでいない場合は、SSDを回転してもう一度試してください。

  38. オプションで、筐体内のSSDを固定するために、筐体キットに付属の2本の#1プラスネジを取り付けることができます。
    • オプションで、筐体内のSSDを固定するために、筐体キットに付属の2本の#1プラスネジを取り付けることができます。

  39. 付属のセンサ対応SATAケーブルを筐体のポートに差し込みます。 ケーブルコネクタの狭い側面を、筐体のコネクタの狭い側面と揃えます。 ケーブルは一方向にのみ接続されています。 ケーブルを接続できない場合は、180°回転させてからもう一度試してください。
    • 付属のセンサ対応SATAケーブルを筐体のポートに差し込みます。

    • ケーブルコネクタの狭い側面を、筐体のコネクタの狭い側面と揃えます。 ケーブルは一方向にのみ接続されています。 ケーブルを接続できない場合は、180°回転させてからもう一度試してください。

  40. 小さな温度センサーボードにつけられた接着剤裏のシールを剥がします。 温度センサーボードをSSDの表面の露出した金属部分、SATAコネクターに可能な限り近い位置に取り付けます。 筐体を取り付ける際に作業の邪魔になる余分な温度センサーのワイヤーを折り曲げてください。
    • 小さな温度センサーボードにつけられた接着剤裏のシールを剥がします。

    • 温度センサーボードをSSDの表面の露出した金属部分、SATAコネクターに可能な限り近い位置に取り付けます。

    • 筐体を取り付ける際に作業の邪魔になる余分な温度センサーのワイヤーを折り曲げてください。

    Does the small temperature sensor board have to be purchased separately for a 2015 iMac or is there one already attached to the HDD?

    Richard Lee - 返信

    Hi Richard, our upgrade kit does come with a temperature sensor, but a hard drive bought by itself will not come with one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    The enclosure that came with my kit is all plastic, does the sensor have to be connected to metal? If yes, where would it go given the all-plastic enclosure?

    Lynne Mitchell - 返信

    Hi Lynne,

    It does not have to be connected to metal. However, the sensor should be stuck on the drive and not on the enclosure so that it can sense the drive’s temperature.

    Arthur Shi -

    My iMac (27-inch, Late 2013) (Model Identifier: iMac14,2) (EMC: 2639), had a Seagate Barracuda 1.0TB HDD installed. There was no temperature sensor on the HDD. I have the Fan Controller that is pictured in this manual on Steps 39, 40 and 41. The photos do not show a small two-conductor cable connected from the Fan Controller circuit board to the logic board. There is usually a cable that connects the small circuit board, where the drive’s temperature is measured, to a connector on the logic board, but not in this iMac. For now, I have installed the Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD without a fan controller and it has been running for over two hours without a hint of the fan ramping up. Should I still install the Fan Controller and not worry about connecting the controller sensor to the logic board? Thank you for creating an excellent manual!

    David Higgins - 返信

    Hello, what if I don’t buy the temperature sensor? Could I break my computer or the SSD? Thank you in advance for your answer.

    kurdonet - 返信

    You can use Mac Fan Control as a software solution. You won’t break your computer as it will slow down and throttle itself to protect it. More than anything, your SSD will run warmer than usual, which could shorten its lifespan.

    Arthur Shi -

    I just did this procedure with an A1419 (EMC # 2806) and didn’t buy the temperature sensor. I didn’t experience any loud fans afterwards. The machine was originally ordered with 3TB Fusion Drive. After installing the new 2TB SSD (WD Blue WDS200T2B0A) the Disk Utility showed an original 128GB PCI drive in addition to the new SSD. I ignored this PCI SSD and reinstalled OS X on the SATA SSD. All is good here! Oh, also I didn’t use any fancy 3.5” to 2.5” drive adapter, but a simple 3-dollar eBay adapter (can be found with this title, “2.5" to 3.5" Bay SSD Metal Hard Drive HDD Mounting Bracket Adapter”). I keep these laying around just in case. I did have to re-thread the screw holes to re-use the iMac’s HDD screw-posts (used tap & drill set, size 6-32 NC).

    Andy Blakely - 返信

    I just upgraded my late 2015 iMac with a 1TB Samsung 860 EVO and did not use a sensor. No fan or heat issues over the last week of use. Please note this Samsung drive is not the primary workhorse on the machine as I also upgraded my PCI ssd and use that as the primary drive. I have read on other sites that this model iMac does not need the sensor but I am not 100% on that.

    Chip T - 返信

    une fois la sonde collé sur le ssd ou est ce que celle ci ce branche ? sur la carte mere ?

    Charly Dewost - 返信

  41. 古いハードドライブに付けられていたマウントピンを筐体の両側面に取り付けます。
    • 古いハードドライブに付けられていたマウントピンを筐体の両側面に取り付けます。

    • 筐体上にある穴がネジ用のピッチが付いていない場合があります。そのため、取り付けピンをねじ込むと余計な作業が必要になることがあります。 時間をかけてゆっくりとねじ込んで、まっすぐ差し込みます。

    This was an understatement for my drive adapter. The adapter had threads that I believe were M3 threaded whereas the mounting pins are what I believer are 6-32 screws. The mounting pins are not threaded well for self-tapping, so I recommend finding an old screw that used to be used for mounting optical drives into PC cases and using those to thread the holes. You can make sure you have the correct size by screwing the sacrificial screws into the old hard drive where they should fit easily before using them to cut new threads into your 2.5” drive adapter. After that, the mounting pins went into the adapter with very little effort.

    Jakegub - 返信

  42. 古いハードドライブから取り外したすべてのマウントブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。 古いハードドライブから取り外したすべてのマウントブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。
    • 古いハードドライブから取り外したすべてのマウントブラケットを筐体に取り付けます。

  43. iMacのSATAコンボケーブルを新しい交換用の温度対応SATAコンボケーブルに接続します SATAケーブルを他のコンポーネントと干渉しない場所に配線します。
    • iMacのSATAコンボケーブルを新しい交換用の温度対応SATAコンボケーブルに接続します

    • SATAケーブルを他のコンポーネントと干渉しない場所に配線します。

    • ケーブルに鋭い曲がりがないようにし、挟み込まれないように配線してください。

    How much time after gluing the screen can we use it?

    Maurya Gajjar - 返信

    A few hours should be fine. I suggest checking the screen after a week and after a month to make sure the adhesive is still fully bonded.

    Arthur Shi -

    Ensure the glass lines up with the edge of the iMac

    After replacing the adhesive strips with new ones and the screen connectors have been reconnected, place the lower edge of the screen on the bottom shelf” to take the weight, but don’t press it back in the shelf too much.

    At this point if you’re careful you still have the ability to ensure the edges of the glass line up with the aluminium edges. As soon as the adhesive strips make contact with the glass you will quickly lose the ability to adjust this to line up.

    pohutukawa - 返信

終わりに

お使いのデバイスを再構成するには、以下の手順を逆順に行い、接着ストリップの使用方法を参照して、ディスプレイガラスを再装着します。

214 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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50 件のコメント

My experience in upgrading this unit to a Seagate 4TB hybrid ST4000DX001 went fine except for the fans running at a constant higher RPM. Using Macs Fan Control is solving my issue for now. As a tip, you do not need to remove the left speaker, you can loosen the two screws and angle it leaning to the left.

MFR2VCB - 返信

What setting do you change in Macs Fan Control? Im looking at getting a SSD fitted to my Late 2013 iMac by a certified repair centre who have said they will do it for me if I provide the SSD but they did mention that the fans would most likely speed up as there won't be a temp sensor in the SSD. Thanks.

Lewis -

Lewis: simply running the Macs Fan Control app will do it. Otherwise the fans run at full speed because they have no temperature measurement.

Max Fenton - 返信

I'm wondering what drive apple uses for the 1TB SSD version? Is it an OEM type PCIE Sandisk as well or a larger 2.5" drive?

I'm very tempted to upgrade my Fusion drive.

Brent Petersen - 返信

Apple uses a custom Samsung drive.

Review this great guide: The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs

Dan -

Fan Control / temp sensor issue aside, are there any limitations/considerations with replacing the 3.5" 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD in an appropriate bracket?

Is anyone having luck with any particular SSD models?

Tim - 返信

To solve the fan issue I believe you need to add a temperature sensor like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM... OWC told me if you don't, your fans will go crazy because the new drive probably does not this sensor like the original mac. Just heard it today and then read this. Hope this helps!

weddings - 返信

Thank you this fixed the fan issue for me!!

Felix Waller -

Hi, is a temperature sensor (like the one linked above) necessary if I am replacing the hard drive with an SSD? Also, what is recommended for the SSD "cradle" since this model iMac comes with a 3.5" disk and SSDs are 2.5"?

wesleyhargrove - 返信

If I replace a Fusion Drive with an ordinary drive, will there be issues? Or is the fusion SSD a separate part and will be integrated when the new drive is formatted?

Alan Browne - 返信

Fusion SSD is seperate.

Evert van Harten -

I haven't had any fan noise issues at all after installing an Samsung 840 ssd instead of the seagate hdd.

peter - 返信

Hi - I replaced the Hard Drive using this guide. But it looks like my imac no longer boots up through the fusion drive. How can I confirm this or fix it to boot back through the fusion drive?

donnorth - 返信

You will have to fuse them back together through Terminal.

asnperswazin -

How do I fuse them back together through terminal?

donnorth -

I have put 1st a 500gb and after a 1tb ssd both Samsung evo 850. I didn't needed to use the OWC in line thermal sensor, I even have bought it but first upgrade it hadn't arrived yet and I wanted to know if I would really need it since I have read somewhere that the latest versions do not need it anymore. my imac is a late 2015 and I am not sure if really is the fact of it be a newer version or if the Samsung evo 850 have some thermal sensor inside. by pass, the ifixit adhesive and the included apener are both great. it was very easy to replace the hard drive, however replace the processor as a little bit hard but I had success in doing it

Alber Einsten - 返信

Is it possible to change the power button on the late 2012 iMac 27"? The cable got cut from the speaker but I was able to MacGuyver it with another power button. It looks like you'd have to take the metal bezel off which would have to be cut... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Ryan Arakaki - 返信

Can I have one SSD for system and another HDD for media in IMac Late 2013 (thin body) , like IMac 2011(fattest body)??

marceloQuiroga - 返信

Good guide. Would be even better if you added tips regarding replacing the adhesives on the display once the repair is complete. Thanks!

Charles - 返信

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Sam Goldheart -

That guide exists and is the first option in the EMC 2546 guides list: iMac Intel 27インチ EMC 2546接着剤ストリップの交換

Christophe Patys -

I did the installation of a new hard drive following the ifixit guide, afterwards I had the fan issue, I did not have the fans spinning at full speed like some people have been describing but the CPU and other components would just get hot very fast, this seemed very strange, installing Mac fan control didn't help much, as the CPU and stuff would heat up, and if I did not want to damage my computer I had to crank up the fans. I was desperate for a solution, so I purchased the kit from OWC (after reading "weddings" comment) being a bit sceptical, because I wasn't sure if installing a sensor would stop the CPU from heating up. But after the Installation everything is back to normal. The CPU stays at around 40 degrees, and the fan stays quite. I don't understand how this works, but I definitely recommend installing this sensor if you have similar issues after upgrading your hard drive, even if it means opening your iMac again ;). For the record: I have an iMac 27-inch Late 2012.

Felix Waller - 返信

The guide made it extremely easy to perform an SSD swap. The wheel was the perfect tool, and the strips were perfect for the job.

Christophe Patys - 返信

I made the change of the hard disk and when closing the imac one part of the screen was left in black that could be this?

john sayegh - 返信

I got this Screen problem when replaced the HDD with OWC SSD in my iMac late 2012 model.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem ? PLEASE ! I REALLY WORRY ABOUT THIS.

Please take out the photo down here.

goo.gl/vFUiGI

My Email is mrnguyenken@gmail.com

Thank you so much !

Nguyen Ken - 返信

I have the same problem as you, change the hard drive and now I have a part of the screen in black

john sayegh -

Check and make sure that the Display Data cable is properly seated when attaching it in Step 19.

Philip Sedlmair -

Completed this guide no problem at all. Previously replaced the disk on a smaller iMac without incident.

Images are excellent, detailed and specific.

No issues with CPU fan as mentioned in some other comments. iMac 27inch Late 2012 model.

Bradley Anderson - 返信

Thank you for this guide: very clear and detailed. The dedicated adhesive-cutting tool was well worth the money, as it sped up the cutting and reduced my stress level! I did need to repeat steps 9-16 a few times before the screen felt loose enough to lift away from the body. TAKE YOUR TIME - the screen WILL lift off without much force when it’s ready.

While the case is open, allow a few minutes more to remove the left speaker and carefully remove any dust and fluff that has been sucked into the case by the cooling fan!

I opted for a 2 TB FireCuda drive. Booting up and loading of apps is noticeably faster, for only a few pounds more than a 2 TB traditional HD: a cost-effective solution for an older Mac.

Peter Barber - 返信

I think they should change “Difficulty” levels. With this guide: “Easy”; Without this guide: “Difficult”. Thanks again iFixit for another successful repair.

lottpaul - 返信

Hi Guys, im planning to change my hard drive to SSD according to this instructions, just a simpel question before i get started; How do you do with the system and everything that is installed on the old drive, are you just cloning the disk before change or what is the procedure? (and if so, what tool do i use for that?)

Best regards, have fun :)

Tobbe / Sweden

torbjorn.mobil - 返信

Yep, you got it! Grab an external hard drive enclosure and clone your old disk to the new disk before you install it. Instructions are here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Worked well but in deed it is not that easy. All important steps are explained and with the kit I’ve got everything I needed. Quotation from one Apple Reseller here was 730€ für 1TB SSD, so I was able to save quite some money. Thanks! Best regards from Bavaria

Hopfa Dinger - 返信

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) but it was configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - 返信

Did this for a customer at my shop. Used all iFixit tools and parts. He called back 3 weeks later because the screen fell out. What causes this? Can the iFixit adhesive strips be trusted? We’re out $600 because we have to replace this screen now, and we can’t even be sure that it will not happen again. What can we do?

Alec - 返信

@fletchertime Sorry to hear that :( In my experience, the replacement adhesive is extremely sticky, so I’m not sure how this could have happened. The only possibilities I can think of are (1) the old adhesive was not cleaned off well enough, resulting in a poor bond for the new adhesive, (2) the customer broke it on their own somehow, and is trying to pin it on you, or (3) the adhesive was defective in some way—certainly possible, but we haven’t heard of any other instances of this. If you ordered from iFixit, at least reach out to customer support and see what they can do to help. Better luck on the next one I hope :(

Jeff Suovanen -

What you used to clean the adhesive could have left a film which interfered with the adhesion.

Rubbing, ethanol isopropyl alcohol can have junk in them that could have messed you up. You really want to use reagent grade (85% or better). To test your solvent is to get a small glass bowl to place some of the solvent and carefully warm it no flames! to speed up the evaporation do you have any staining at the bottom.

Dan -

This guide worked great, thanks a lot! Installed a Crucial MX500 without problems.

Anton Sundqvist - 返信

And no, I didn’t need a thermal sensor or software to control the fans, they are working as they should anyway.

Anton Sundqvist - 返信

and then, how i close it? where i can buy the adhesive? how i can apply it?

MarcoVR - 返信

Upgraded my late 2012 27” iMac (13,2) with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD, but was not sure about buying the OWC sensor, so before re-sealing the screen, I booted up and it appears the SSD temperature is monitored without the need for the OWC external sensor. According to the free “macs fan control” app the Temperature of SSD is about 21 Celsius and fan is on low speed. Screen shot is available in my corresponding post in the user forum.

Julian - 返信

Thanks so much for this guide! This was my first Apple product repair and thankfully it went relatively smoothly. My iMac is operational again and the SSD has added a significant speed boost!

Being that this was my first time it would have been great if this guide also included a section on how to format and load a copy of the Mac OS onto the drive before Installing. I was able to figure this out relatively quickly with some internet searches but I required another Mac so I could download and install the OS onto my new drive with the SATA to USB adapter. There is probably another way or an easier way - but I was going in green! Would be a helpful preface to this guide. Thanks again.

azaadkb - 返信

hello,

thank you so much for this guide - makes everything so much easier!

One question though: could you please clarify if I still need the OWC cable adapter , even if I am replacing the HDD with the very same model (Seagate Barracuda)?

Do I need the OWC adapter only if I replace with an SSD / a different type of HDD?

Or do I need it also if using the very same hardware?

Thanks a lot

L

Luca Mucci - 返信

ps: iMac 27” - late 2013

I ve just done the replacement without the OWC sensor. The fans do NOT seem to go crazy, and temperature is monitored (I m using iStat)

Is it possible that I don’t need the thermal sensor?

Luca Mucci -

Woo hoo! I managed to replace the dying hard drive of my 27” late 2012 iMac with an SSD and, despite being pretty nerve wracking the whole time, it went smoothly! Great guide.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 返信

I have one of these as my work computer. I absolutely hate how slow the mechanical drive on these is. It’s hampering my workflow… I can’t wait to see the look on the IT guys’ faces when they see how this crap is disassembled to put an SSD in… then the look on my face when they kindly tell me to sod off.

migue31096 - 返信

Just finished this hard drive replacement today. Was challenging, but the supplied ifixit kit and the instructions made is pretty step-by-step straightforward! New SDD drive is super spiffy fast and breathed new life into this fine computer. IMHO, this model iMac is great because of the target display mode. Even though this computer is now 8 years old, it’s got a lot of pep and will be able to use it for years to come.

tthrivi - 返信

Great guide, easy to follow even for a non-techie like me. My iMac looks as good as new and performs even better.

The one thing I’d add is that on startup in recovery mode, the new disk does not show up as a volume to restore to. In this case I was able to open a terminal window from the recovery screen and format the disk using DiskUtil eraseDisk. After that all was good.

Dan Augood - 返信

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