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はじめに

このガイドを参照して、Bluetoothボードを交換しましょう。

    • ガラスパネルの上部コーナー付近の2箇所に、重量用の吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップを装着するには、まず可動ハンドルがガラスパネル表面と平行になるように吸盤カップを載せます。(2番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤カップをガラスに軽く当てながら、可動ハンドルをもう一方のハンドルと平行になるまで持ち上げます。(3番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤が上手く固着しない場合は、ガラスパネルと吸盤カップの両方を柔らかくリントフリー(メガネ拭きなど)の布を湿らせて軽く拭きます。( 一番効果的な方法は、蒸留水、もしくは蒸留水と白酢を同じ割合で調合したものを布に含ませます。)

    • 吸盤カップを使ってディスプレイガラスを運ばないでください。吸盤カップのいずれか上手く固着されていないと、スクリーンが落下して壊れてしまう可能性があります。

    • 購入時のオリジナルiMac用梱包ボックスは、ガラスパネルを保管するのに最適な場所です。 それ以外は、安定した水平上の表面、机の上にタオルを敷いた上に載せておくと安全です。

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - 返信

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - 返信

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - 返信

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - 返信

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - 返信

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - 返信

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - 返信

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - 返信

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - 返信

  1. ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。 ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。
    • ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。

    • ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。

    • 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。

    • ガラスパネルを安全に置いた後、時間の経過とともに吸引力でガラスが割れてしまう可能性があるので、必ず吸盤カップを外してください。

    • 再装着の際は、ガラスパネル内側とLCDの表面を慎重に拭いてください。デバイス本体の電源を入れると、ほこりや指紋が内部に閉じ込められています。

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - 返信

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - 返信

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - 返信

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - 返信

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - 返信

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - 返信

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. 液晶パネルとアウターケースを固定しているT10 トルクスネジ × 8本を外します
    • 液晶パネルとアウターケースを固定しているT10 トルクスネジ × 8本を外します

    • 油脂が付着すると取れにくいし場合がありますので、液晶面に指が触れないようご注意ください。

    • 必要に応じて、液晶上部中央付近のEMIガスケットを剥がします。

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - 返信

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - 返信

  3. iMacを慎重に平らな面に起きます。 タイトに装着されているため、液晶パネルを持ち上げるには、画像にあるように紙クリップを使って細いフック状の工具を作成してください。 もしくは、iFixit特製デュアルハードドライブキットには、持ち上げるのに最適なアングル付きピンセットが含まれています。
    • iMacを慎重に平らな面に起きます。

    • タイトに装着されているため、液晶パネルを持ち上げるには、画像にあるように紙クリップを使って細いフック状の工具を作成してください。

    • もしくは、iFixit特製デュアルハードドライブキットには、持ち上げるのに最適なアングル付きピンセットが含まれています。

    • 細いフック状の工具で左右どちらか一方の上端角から液晶パネルを引き上げ、フレームから外します。

    • 液晶パネルの一方を持ち上げたら、ケースの外にかけ、もう片方を同様に工具を使って外ケースから持ち上げます。

    • ケーブルにアクセスできるように、液晶パネルを、ゆっくりかつ十分に開きます。

    • 液晶パネル裏面に着いている短いリボンケーブルが2つのパーツに接続されているので、パネルの上部端をあまり高く持ち上げないでください。

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - 返信

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - 返信

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  5. 画面の左上の隅の裏側にある垂直同期ケーブルを外しましょう。スパッジャーの先端をうまく利用してコネクタの側面の突起をソケットから慎重にスライドして押し出します。
    • 画面の左上の隅の裏側にある垂直同期ケーブルを外しましょう。スパッジャーの先端をうまく利用してコネクタの側面の突起をソケットから慎重にスライドして押し出します。

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - 返信

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.

    JLTX -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - 返信

    This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.

    simonf -

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - 返信

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - 返信

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - 返信

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - 返信

  6. この作業では、素手を電源ユニットの背面に差し入れます。電源ユニットの背面のボードがむき出しになっていますが、大容量コンデンサに帯電している高電圧の電流が流れますので、絶対に触れないでください。
    • この作業では、素手を電源ユニットの背面に差し入れます。電源ユニットの背面のボードがむき出しになっていますが、大容量コンデンサに帯電している高電圧の電流が流れますので、絶対に触れないでください。

    • 手でコネクタのつまみを押し下げながらディスプレイ下部に向かってずらし、液晶パネルのLEDケーブルを外します。

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - 返信

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

    fabio4 - 返信

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - 返信

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - 返信

  7. コネクタに付いている黒いつまみを画面上部に引っ張り上げることで、液晶パネルケーブルのZIFコネクタを外せます。 コネクタとソケットにダメージを与える可能性があるので、強く引っ張らないでください。
    • コネクタに付いている黒いつまみを画面上部に引っ張り上げることで、液晶パネルケーブルのZIFコネクタを外せます。

    • コネクタとソケットにダメージを与える可能性があるので、強く引っ張らないでください。

    • ディスプレイデーターケーブルを外すには、コネクタの黒いタブをデバイス上部に向けて、続けて引っ張ります。

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - 返信

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - 返信

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - 返信

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - 返信

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - 返信

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - 返信

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - 返信

    So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.

    Thanks!

    Jeff McConnell -

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - 返信

  8. スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルの横にあるディスプレイ電源ケーブルを取り外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使用して、ディスプレイデータケーブルの横にあるディスプレイ電源ケーブルを取り外します。

  9. 液晶パネルを上部端に向けて注意深く引き上げ、液晶パネルをiMac本体から持ち上げて取り出します。
    • 液晶パネルを上部端に向けて注意深く引き上げ、液晶パネルをiMac本体から持ち上げて取り出します。

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - 返信

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

    zackduchene - 返信

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - 返信

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - 返信

  10. ディスプレイの面を柔らかくて平らな表面の場所に置きます
    • ディスプレイの面を柔らかくて平らな表面の場所に置きます

    • ディスプレーパネルを交換する際は、ディスプレイに付属している全ての部品を新しいディスプレイへ移植する必要があります。新旧のディスプレーを比較して、全てのケーブル、センサー、クッションが移植されていることを確認してください。

    • もしそこに、粘着テープ付きハーネスかケーブルがあった場合、直接ケーブルを引っ張らず、必ずテープを先にはがし取ってください。

    • ケーブルがシャーシに接着剤で固定されている場合、iOpenerかドライヤーを用いて熱し、接着剤を軟化させてください。その後にopening pickをケーブルの下に挿入し、ケーブルを緩めてください。デリケートなコネクターがあるため強引に引っ張ることは避けてください。

    • フォームクッションの下にopening pickをスライドして、少しずつディスプレーから分離し、優しく引っ張ります。取り外したこのクッションを再度新しいディスプレーへ接着するために、新しい両面テープを用意する必要があります。

  11. Bluetoothボードは、iMacのケースの左端沿い、LEDバックライトドライバーのちょうど下側にあります。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからアンテナケーブルを慎重に持ち上げます。
    • Bluetoothボードは、iMacのケースの左端沿い、LEDバックライトドライバーのちょうど下側にあります。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからアンテナケーブルを慎重に持ち上げます。

    • アンテナの接続を外すときは、ケーブルを引っ張らないでください。アンテナやソケットにダメージを与える恐れがあります。

  12. Bluetoothボードをケースに固定しているT8トルクスネジを外します。 ケーブルで付けられているので、まだ基板を完全に取り外さないでください。 まだ接続されているケーブルに無理な力を与えないよう注意しながら、Bluetoothボードを包んでいるテープを剥がします。
    • Bluetoothボードをケースに固定しているT8トルクスネジを外します。

    • ケーブルで付けられているので、まだ基板を完全に取り外さないでください。

    • まだ接続されているケーブルに無理な力を与えないよう注意しながら、Bluetoothボードを包んでいるテープを剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、コネクタからBluetoothデータケーブルを引き抜き、Bluetoothボードを取り外します。

    Can anybody give me pin map of this BT adapter ( bcm92046md A1181)? I need just D- and D+

    spamspirit - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。

4 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Phillip Takahashi

メンバー登録日: 2011年08月22日

77,743 ポイント

87のガイドは作成済み

Hi Guys

Can i update the the Bluetooth to bluetooth 4.0 on my iMac 27" 2429? want to use new Yosemite Handoff feature

chris - 返信

I updated bluetooth to 4.0 with Low Energy support with an external USB dongle. However, as it is working (with LE support), handoff isn't enabled. I am still looking for a solution. Because a late 2012 27 inch iMac has Bluetooth 4.0 LE and no Wifi ac built in. That is the exact same case as mine (Mid 2011 27 inch iMac) with the dongle of course.

vicotting -

Hi,

Thank you for this tutoriel, i have just one question... You know where can i buy this Bluetooth Board EMC 2429 (Model A1312) ?

Because i don't find on google or amazon. Thank you

Michael G.

Michael Guillet - 返信

yes, you have to buy this adapter http://www.osxwifi.com/apple-broadcom-bc... and replace the current AirPort and BT card.

jiri.hracek - 返信

@jiri.hracek: Thank you for the suggestion.

Have you bought anything from osxwifi.com? I wanted to buy this adapter from them for my mid-2011 iMac but had a question first. I sent a message to their advertised email address twice ([http://mailto:support@osxwifi.com|support@osxwifi.com)] and also filled out the communication form on their web site (http://www.osxwifi.com/contacts). It has been nearly two weeks but no one has gotten back to me yet. Thank you.

Alper Paksoy -

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