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はじめに

このガイドは、光学ドライブファンを交換するのに役立ちます。

    • ガラスパネルの上部コーナー付近の2箇所に、重量用の吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップを装着するには、まず可動ハンドルがガラスパネル表面と平行になるように吸盤カップを載せます。(2番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤カップをガラスに軽く当てながら、可動ハンドルをもう一方のハンドルと平行になるまで持ち上げます。(3番目の画像を参照してください。)

    • 吸盤が上手く固着しない場合は、ガラスパネルと吸盤カップの両方を柔らかくリントフリー(メガネ拭きなど)の布を湿らせて軽く拭きます。( 一番効果的な方法は、蒸留水、もしくは蒸留水と白酢を同じ割合で調合したものを布に含ませます。)

    • 吸盤カップを使ってディスプレイガラスを運ばないでください。吸盤カップのいずれか上手く固着されていないと、スクリーンが落下して壊れてしまう可能性があります。

    • 購入時のオリジナルiMac用梱包ボックスは、ガラスパネルを保管するのに最適な場所です。 それ以外は、安定した水平上の表面、机の上にタオルを敷いた上に載せておくと安全です。

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - 返信

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - 返信

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - 返信

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - 返信

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - 返信

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - 返信

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - 返信

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - 返信

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - 返信

  1. ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。 ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。
    • ガラスパネル上部端の裏側に沿って付けられたスチール製の取り付けピンが外れるように、LCDパネル表面に対してガラスパネルを垂直になるよう、ゆっくりと持ち上げます。

    • ガラスパネルをiMac下端端から引き離し、慎重に脇に置きます。

    • 吸盤カップを使用してガラスパネルを運ばないでください。どちらかのグリップを失うと、パネルが落下して破損する可能性があります。

    • ガラスパネルを安全に置いた後、時間の経過とともに吸引力でガラスが割れてしまう可能性があるので、必ず吸盤カップを外してください。

    • 再装着の際は、ガラスパネル内側とLCDの表面を慎重に拭いてください。デバイス本体の電源を入れると、ほこりや指紋が内部に閉じ込められています。

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - 返信

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - 返信

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - 返信

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - 返信

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - 返信

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - 返信

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. LCDをアウターケースに固定しているT10トルクスネジを8本外します。
    • LCDをアウターケースに固定しているT10トルクスネジを8本外します。

    The replacement display I received did not have a bracket around the edges so I can reinstall it. On the old display, it seems the bracket is screwed in, but even with all screws removed, I cannot get it to budge. Is there a trick? Is this even possible?

    wooten1138 - 返信

    Reassembly: be careful with the screws! The magnets attract them and the screwdriver as well! Better to use a screwdriver without replaceable end insert. I had to use one of this second type and I struggled a lot!

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nB172HJeM0...

    Try this easy GPU fix before buying a new graphics card! It fixed the white screen issue on my EMC 2374.

    adamg5 - 返信

  3. iMacのスタンド側を下に向けて、慎重に平面に置きます。 隙間が狭いため、細いフック状の工具を使用してディスプレイを持ち上げ、アウターケースから取り外します。3番目の写真のように、折り曲げたゼムクリップから工具を作ってみました。 細いフック状の工具をディスプレイのスチール製アウターフレームに差し込み、トップエッジの片側から持ち上げます。
    • iMacのスタンド側を下に向けて、慎重に平面に置きます。

    • 隙間が狭いため、細いフック状の工具を使用してディスプレイを持ち上げ、アウターケースから取り外します。3番目の写真のように、折り曲げたゼムクリップから工具を作ってみました。

    • 細いフック状の工具をディスプレイのスチール製アウターフレームに差し込み、トップエッジの片側から持ち上げます。

    • ディスプレイの片側のトップエッジが持ち上がったら、アウターケースに戻らないように保持しながら、フック状の工具を使用してもう片側を持ち上げます。

    • 2つの部品が数本の短いリボンケーブルでまだ接続されているため、ディスプレイの片側のトップエッジをアウターケースから持ち上げすぎないようにしてください。

    Be careful with any tool while lifting the edge of the display. Under the top left edge of the display sits the bluetooth-antenna-connector. I pulled it out while lifting. It was not such a great problem, cause i could just plug it in again. But maybe you could cut the small cable depending on the tool you use to lift.

    Gee - 返信

    The display is quite heavy, an is fitted with a tight tolerance. I found it very difficult and dangerous, lifting it with any tool in one corner while the iMac was lying down. Instead, after removing the T10 screws, it was quite easy pulling the display out of the iMac with my fingers on both sides, while the iMac was in the upright position. By doing that, you can easily hold the display with one hand and reach for the connecting cables with the other

    Georg P - 返信

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches to the inner top of the display but all the pics show the display completely removed after all cables are disconnected without the short ribbon cable intact. Does this short ribbon cable have a purpose and does it need to be reconnected? If so, how? Or is it just some worthless control put in by Apple to show its been messed with when brought back for repair? Thanks

    alligator69 - 返信

    Simple tool to use here is long nose pliers on the corners. safer, better control.

    Kieran Hobbs - 返信

  4. iMacの左上隅付近にあるLEDドライバボードから、垂直同期ケーブルを指で慎重に引き抜きます。 必ずLEDドライバボードのソケットから、真っ直ぐかつ平行にコネクタを引き抜いてください。
    • iMacの左上隅付近にあるLEDドライバボードから、垂直同期ケーブルを指で慎重に引き抜きます。

    • 必ずLEDドライバボードのソケットから、真っ直ぐかつ平行にコネクタを引き抜いてください。

    This cable is very small and fiddley to remove if you don't have much in the way of finger nails. The cables are very thin and fragile.

    James York - 返信

    It took me a bit of work to remove this cable, it was a hassle actually. What worked for me, without any tools, was to use your index and middle fingers' nails and pull it. That worked better than the index and thumb. Took me like 15 minutes, more than what it should take.

    thefinalzeta - 返信

    Yes, me too! It stuck terribly hard and I spent most of the time for the repair for this s**** little connector. I thought all the time, I'm gonna break it or tear off these tiny cables... All the other cables were *rather* easy-going. In the end I finally got a new SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB SSD working.

    And thanks to the SDD Fan Control app it is sooo silent. Thanks to Exirion!

    Nick van Hill -

    When the cable comes out, make note of which side has the gold contacts visible. On my cable, you could only see them from the "top" side (aka, as you look down on it). From the "bottom" or back side of the cable, you could NOT see any gold contacts. This will help to orient the cable when reconnecting it.

    markcerv - 返信

    In my case, all the cable connectors were oriented having the golden contacts, as seen from the wide side of the connectors, oriented facing away from the board

    Georg P - 返信

    From this point onwards I found very useful a flashlight to illuminate inside the iMac.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    Take care not to pull off the socket off along with the connector as happened to me.

    Fortunately there are used pull on eBay. Even saw one that had the same socket ripped off also.

    Joel Yang - 返信

    FYI; Cable in 27 EMC 2390 I just worked on looked different. Was simple flat connecter with nothing other than blue coloring on end. Just flat gold connectors on bottom side. These kinds are very tricky to extract and even trickier to reinsert as there is too much flex and not enough slack/room for finger/tool to get back in.

    My solution is unconventional but works. I do not remove the cables (!). I work on the floor, lying on my belly. I open slowly and carefully only as far as the cables inside will allow. Use a flashlight so you can really see clearly. Then I prop up the both sides of the display using anything the right size (box, a pair of boots…) It is crucial of course that you have things propped up securely so screen can stay a few inches up without hands! I use a very short #10 Torx so I can remove the old HD. There is barely enough room to work but it is do-able with care (and light!). As I am usually putting in an SSD these days, I simply use electrical tape to secure it. Close slowly. Test

    Jed Wevaer - 返信

    My cable was also taped to the inside of the case which made the cable VERY tight. Make sure to pull the cable loose from the case before lifting the display much at all.

    Rob Winchell - 返信

  5. ディスプレイのデータケーブルコネクタにある2つのストッパーを押し込んで、ロジックボードのソケットのロックを解除します。
    • ディスプレイのデータケーブルコネクタにある2つのストッパーを押し込んで、ロジックボードのソケットのロックを解除します。

    • ディスプレイのデータケーブルコネクタを、ロジックボードのソケットから引き抜きます。

    This connection is very fragile, and many people have broken the display connector on the logic board. You need to carefully pull the connector out, and when putting it back together, you need to carefully push the connector back in.

    pmah - 返信

    i did break mine. do you know where to buy that component?

    Cris - 返信

    In my iMac the cable was stuck to the structure of the computer with a piece of foam tape. Pulling it very gently, gradually it detached with no damages.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

    I pulled a bit too hard and metal cover over the module attached to the logic board came off from one side exposing metal teeth. To my surprise I managed to put it back. Even bigger surprise Mac works just fine!

    Wojtek - 返信

    I managed to damage mine also .. but, it was probably already damaged by Apple when they replaced a recall hard drive. I managed to fix it like Wojtek. had to re-solder tabs to the logic board. Would like to find a dead logic board and de-solder the connector for a spare; however, I think all the little pins fall out if you try that … SIGH!

    Michael Lambert - 返信

    I also broke this socket. I am able to fit it back over all the pins correctly and reattach the thing using electrical tape to hold i down. However, I see no display (nor backlight) when I turn on the computer. It does chime. Not sure if I got contact with the outer tabs (non pints). Should the backlight turn on even if this cable is unplugged since there is a separate back light cable?

    max - 返信

  6. LEDドライバボードからLEDバックライトの電源ケーブルを取り外せる程度にまで、ディスプレイを持ち上げてアウターケースから離します。
    • LEDドライバボードからLEDバックライトの電源ケーブルを取り外せる程度にまで、ディスプレイを持ち上げてアウターケースから離します。

    You need to squeeze the connector top to unlatch, then pull it parallel to the LED backlight board.

    Charlie - 返信

    Here I used the flat end of a spudger to unlatch the connector top.

    Roberto Blandino - 返信

  7. LCD温度センサーケーブルを、ロジックボードのソケットから取り外すために十分な空間ができるように、ディスプレイを持ち上げます。
    • LCD温度センサーケーブルを、ロジックボードのソケットから取り外すために十分な空間ができるように、ディスプレイを持ち上げます。

    • 作業の完了後にファンが最高速度で回転するようであれば、このコネクタか、またはハードドライブの温度センサーケーブルの接続を確認してください。

    Before you take/remove the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket, make a note of which color cable is on the left, and which is on the right. When I removed the cable, the black cable was leftmost, and the grey cable was rightmost.

    markcerv - 返信

    I replaced hard drive and added a second SSD on a 2010 27" iMac. Everything seemed fine for about a year, and now the fans run continuously. I think it's this cable in Step 8; I'll get around to opening it up to check.

    pigeonf16 - 返信

  8. ディスプレイをiMacの上側端に向けて慎重に引き、アウターケースから取り外します。
    • ディスプレイをiMacの上側端に向けて慎重に引き、アウターケースから取り外します。

    And if the panel has no frame? How you unattach the frame from the old panel to place it on the new one?

    Daria Drozd - 返信

  9. 光学ドライブをアウターケースに固定しているT10トルクスネジを4本外します。
    • 光学ドライブをアウターケースに固定しているT10トルクスネジを4本外します。

    Is it possible to use the DVD drive after installing the SSD, or is there no space left?

    Joel - 返信

  10. ロジックボード上のソケットから光学ドライブの温度センサーコネクタを引き離します。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから光学ドライブの温度センサーコネクタを引き離します。

    This step is not necessary. I have problems with the pulling out, and found that it's not necessary to out it in this case.

    Steve - 返信

    Agreed. Leave it plugged in and peel the buffer tape and temp sensor off the optical drive assembly while it's still in the computer.

    John Lavenia -

    What problems did you have?

    Toni Marmol - 返信

    Don't do that! It's not necessary to pull the sensor cable out. And it cost me an hour to find out that it was this sensor cable and not the LCD sensor cable that made the fans spin at 3000+rpm. The less sensor cables you remove, the easier to find the culprit if you stumble into fan issues.

    bhager - 返信

  11. スパッジャーを光学ドライブコネクタと光学ドライブの間に差し込みます。 光学ドライブコネクタを光学ドライブから、わずかに乖離するため、スパッジャーをひねり、それから指を使ってドライブからコネクタを引き離します。
    • スパッジャーを光学ドライブコネクタと光学ドライブの間に差し込みます。

    • 光学ドライブコネクタを光学ドライブから、わずかに乖離するため、スパッジャーをひねり、それから指を使ってドライブからコネクタを引き離します。

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin - 返信

    Can the superdrive connector cable (possibly just SATA and SATA power bundled) be used for SSD? I wanted to replace the superdrive completely with an SSD, and thus having in total 2 SSDs and one HDD inside the iMac. Thanks in advance.

    Krisna - 返信

    There is another SATA connector on the back side of the logic board for an SSD.

    Neal Sofge - 返信

  12. 光学ドライブの左側端を若干持ち上げて、外ケースの右側端から引き離します。
    • 光学ドライブの左側端を若干持ち上げて、外ケースの右側端から引き離します。

    • 再組み立ての際には、光学ドライブのフェースプレートに2つのホールが付いています。光学ドライブのフェースプレートには2つの穴が開いています。この穴に、2つの短くて太いプラスチック製ポストが正しく装着されているか確認してください。

  13. リアI/Oボードのリボンケーブルを慎重に動かして、その下に隠れた光学ドライブ用ファンのコネクタを露出させます。
    • リアI/Oボードのリボンケーブルを慎重に動かして、その下に隠れた光学ドライブ用ファンのコネクタを露出させます。

    • 光学ドライブのファンのコネクタをロジックボードのソケットから引き抜いて、接続を外します。

  14. 光学ドライブファンをアウターケースに固定している、T10トルクスネジを1本外します。 光学ドライブのファンをアウターケースあkら引き抜いて、周囲に付けられた3本のプラスチック製ポストから持ち上げます。
    • 光学ドライブファンをアウターケースに固定している、T10トルクスネジを1本外します。

    • 光学ドライブのファンをアウターケースあkら引き抜いて、周囲に付けられた3本のプラスチック製ポストから持ち上げます。

    • 周囲のケーブルが絡まないように注意しながら、iMacから光学ドライブファンを慎重に取り出します。

まとめ

デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。

10 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

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1,203のガイドは作成済み

Go slow, and take your time. Easy as long as you do not rush it.

Kevin McCartney - 返信

Wish a view of the back of the fan was included to determine what fan specs are needed for replacement. ifixit doesn’t have the part.

Wizbang FL - 返信

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